i try to answer as much as i know, sorry if not really deep, just a bit. This is the same answer id given to one member here.
Generally, if want to get best fc, of course need to void getting the engine to boost its turbo, means driving below 2k rpm,like 1.8k@1.9k rpm. Of course the speed will be between 80-90kmh on hways. But actually, on hways, not really big concern, even u drive at legal speed limit at 110kmh@at 120kmh constant. The fc still ok, roughly 500km ++, even 600km is reachable. Just gradually increase engine speed(rpm), dont force it like slam it half throttle from speed 80kmh to 160kmh. Unless u really need the power, to overtake for example, but less likely u need it coz u need to remember, cfe has wide range of flat torque from 2k-4k rpm, so, gradually increase the engine speed from 2k rpm to which desired rpm u need for certain speed bcoz its pulling power is the same,only speed desired (kmh) is diff.
For town driving, let the clutch closed 1st b4 press the throttle, means let the car roll by itself n the rpm rise to 1.1krpm automatically b4 apply throttle. Gradually press throttle  for example from 1.1krpm to 1.7k@1.8krpm,dont let the rev jump instantly from 1.1k rpm to 1.8k rpm. Eventhough cvt will match its ratio to match engine speed, but u can help it by feeding correct engine speed. If in traffic crawling(speed around 50kmh to 80kmh needed),beside let the clutch open b4 press throttle, u also need to drive exceeding 1.6krpm,but remember, gradually, not forcing it, n never beyond 1.8k rpm.

N if traffic is clear, no need speed beyond 90kmh, gradually pressing to 1.9k rpm shud be suffice.

if really crawling,speed below 50kmh needed, drive not exceeding 1.6krpm. N if in start stop condtion which stop is short, dont push ur gear lever to n@neutral cause in drive mode, when u r stopping using foot brake, ur idling is lower thanneutral idling,around 650rpm,compare to neutral,shud be around 850rpm. But if the stop condition is long, then neutral is favourable coz u dont want cvt clutch to overheat,maybe more than 3 minutes each stop.
The reasons, cvt adapt many strategies. 1st, reduce idling rpm when stoping in drive mode using footbrake. 2nd, creep mode, when from neutral to drive or footbrake stop to move, clutch will close(it takes a couple of scnd), n the car will start rolling itself even throttle is not pressed to facilitate take off. 3rd,crawl mode, speed less than 50kmh, it will in crawl mode(means overdrive gear ratio isnt available) until 1.6krpm to facilitate slow driving for parking,drive around neighbourhood n etc, thats why when speed needed exceeding  50kmh, i ask u to rev beyond 1.6k rpm, to avoid crawl mode n cvt can enter overdrive mode as possible. 4th, the cvt is heavily labour to achieve optimum fc speed beyond 50kmh to 80kmh max,So getting the car rev rpm between the speed favourable in town driving,around 1.6krpm to 1.8krpm(cfe)1.6krpm to 2krpm(iafm+). 5th,the cvt will change its character beyond 2krpm,depend on driver input. More agressive manner. N for cfe turbo also bosting at 2krpm.

It seems tedious, but its not actually coz u r just controlling the engine speed, the rpm, no need to think which rpm need to feed to upshift like normal at. I know the rpm is easy to shoot up nearly 2krpm, but if u really learn it, its only need one day to practice.

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Added on October 25, 2012, 1:36 amand for dares, yup, not really details actually that i know but i try my best to explain.punch cvt apply this strategy when in d mode, when complete stop using footbarake, idling will decrease than neutral idling, to save some fuel. It shud be around 650 rpm in d idling with footbrake, 850rpm in neutral idling. Both have pros n cons. Stopping in footbrake, can save a bit of fuel n time(clucth closed timing) actually, but the cons is that if stoping in long time, the clutch will overheat, but of course, severe condition driving situation, like stoping more than 3 minutes each stop, n too many stops with the same elapse time continuously. In neutral idling, even its consume a bit fc n takes a bit of time to clutch to react, but in idling, the clutch is soak in oil to cool it down. But the diff is not much,only if u try to get the best fc as u could from the cvt.
While for engine braking downhill, actually fuel is cut coz engine is keep running by gear rather than fuel to keep it from stalling. That is also another strategy apply by punch to its cvt, but the diff is quite negligence,but the safety aspect of driving is more on this part.

Why not explain about this to customers? Common customer, actually will be pening if explain. It just for those who want to try their best to get best fc only. An also who actually will undertand some technical details. Not only cvt, even manual gbox have their own strategy or tuning. If give details like this, common people will say, wah, so complicated ah. To drive cvt@any auto related gbox is not complicated, but how to get the best fc,then u need to understand how it works.

Same as ur powershift car dares :-). Undertand the minimum rpm to upshift n try to make it shift to 6th or overdrive gear as sonest possible.find suitable pressure, so that u can maintain the same pressure for every gear. Thats for auto@pwrshift gearbox lah :-).

I was thinking of this because I often get the "chak!" sound whenever I'm launching from 1st gear. I think this is the sound of some anti-stall mechanism kicking in - the idle will shoot up for a few seconds then go back to normal. I had this in my old Saga before & hiking the idle did the trick Just re-applying the logic here, although I think my gearbox issue has something to do with this problem as well. If the clutch is not releasing gradually, then the clutch will dump suddenly, causing the engine to stall, causing the anti-stall to kick in, right?

Yes, in a manual, it's REALLY obvious. I've managed to find a way of utilizing the anti-stall to move the car, then get on the throttle (roll start, then throttle) but it usually doesn't work when I need to move in a rush. As a result, I'll have to throttle, keep it revved then release the clutch. Like I mentioned, sound like an amateur driving stick, but that seems to be the only way I know now
I also agree that this is a heavy car with a (somewhat) under-powered lump. If the car were lighter OR engine more powerful, perhaps it wouldn't be so obvious. But as it is, it's a bit annoying. If sharpening the throttle would help, I don't mind going with that option but is it possible? Will Proton do it for me?

Actually, I'm in queue for a relief car but the list moves REALLY slowly. My case is already with Customer Care. The last I checked, I was #15 in the list. I'll have to call them back again today I guess.

Maybe if I get frustrated today, I will send an email out. But to whom?

As always, your replies are tremendously appreciated Abg. mat97 Hope to hear more from you soon

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Added on October 24, 2012, 10:23 am