Hi Bro... & Good morning!!
Everyone else, too!! 

For everything electrical/electronic, pls chk the relevant fuse it is connected to ie in the Fusebox.
Chk if it's blown/fused...Replace if so. 

If ok, then chk item itself...in this case, the headlamp bulbs.

Finally it cld be a faulty switch.

Best wishes....

most probably the headlamp bulb already kong. sama like my case. mine kong left side.

Sikagard Bituminous Spray

Price : RM 30 per 500ml can

Coverage : one 500ml can could cover 2 wheel arch (very thin layer) but I suggest one 500ml can per wheel arch for better insulation 

It's a sprayable bituminous in 500 ml per can. Fast-drying, aerosol stone chip coating, high resistance against corrosion, remains flexible when dried and IT'S INSTANT TO USE...! 
Spray it onto wheel arch to protect again corrosion, reduce stone chip noise, reduce rain water noise & reduce tyre noise. 

speak to my dealer today, she told me that this product selling at RM38+/- outside, and she gave me RM30 per 500ml can (if we able to order 36 cans)... 

product came in box, each box contain 12 cans... so should we start the bulk now?

IINM, each bulb also have their own fuse, so shouldn't be both fuse also kong 

if saga blm confirm cannot convert to iafm+ from iafm... if u want iafm+ go change the whole engine... change ECU also...

1. Nope. Different fuses for different circuits may hv different ratings. Chk the value at top of fuse...also goes by colour.
2. Fuse from where FS is plugged in? IINM that's a 20A fuse. If value of fuse for HLamps is also of same value, then it can be used, otherwise it can be a FIRE hazard! Alwaz use fuse of same/recommended value.
3. If both Left & Right HLamps are not working, me also dun think it's becoz of the fuse...as Bro dares rightly puts it ie each side is protected by a different fuse.Frankly, such a case is RARE. Me had nvr got such prob since started driving...
Need further investigation...switch, circuit...etc.
4. Re bituminous spray, yup, it's universal use for what it's meant for.

Best wishes & Good Luck!

gangnam style sticker...

siapa mau? lolz

What happen to ur iafm? My fren have iafm module took out from persona..

Just a quick recap for vacuum assisted driving habit management. Below elaboration solely based on my personal experience and my usual reading in inches/mercury suction(in/hg). For example, if your vacuum reading is 20in/hg, you put your airintake pipe in a pale of mercury, it will suck up 20inches of mercury. Bear in mind, vacuum meaning suction, suction means negative(pressure is positive), so vacuum reading is TERBALIK. Smaller number means UP, greater number means DOWN. 0 vacuum meaning no suction,no pressure.

Idling-engine speed between 800-1000rpm
For Campor engine IAFM. Usual reading without aircon compressor, vacuum should stay between 17-19(more the better). Reading within this region read as the whole engine system is tightly sealed. Safe to assume engine is running on its full potential. Some older model EFI & carbureted engines allowed user to fine tune throttle idling position. Experienced magician normally able to tune the engine idling RPM at 800-1000rpm whilst vacuum reading stay below 20in/hg(below meaning 21,22,23 and so forth). With a vacuum reading on hand, you can withness the powerful SANDEN aircon compressor kick in, straightaway it chew off 4-7 inches of vacuum. Meaning that, the aircon compressor is heavy and took away 1/3 of the engine torque. Normal idling with aircon compressor, reading should be 13-15in/hg. Cold start not applicable.

Usual driving
When you're over taking, you slam on the gas pedal. Vacuum point at 0. Once you release gas pedal, torque will channel back from wheels to your engine, piston pull down hard and your vacuum reading become lower again(higher). When vacuum point at 0 meaning no restriction(lots of air going inside), also meaning petrol pouring inside combustian chamber! For picking up speed, I recommend to maintain vacuum below 10(11,12,13...etc). Do this more often, you'll soon realize no point going full throttle. Those cars that everyday annoys you, that makes you go full throttle to ditch them, you can still dtich them with vacuum pointing at 10.

up hill
When going up hill, even you did not increase throttle, but your vacuum pointer will start travelling up(9,8,7,6...).  This means you need more fuel to burn, in order to achive same speed. For manual transmission, when vacuum pointer go above 5(4,3,2,1,0) meaning your at the wrong gear. Please down shift. Sometimes you'll be surprise higher RPM does not mean you're consuming more petrol. The correct power transmit from engine to wheel is more crucial. That's why gearbox official term is TRANSMISSION.

down hill
Wheels is spinning faster than engine, you will get all sort of error in reading vacuum. Most of the time during down hill, your vacuum reading stay below 23(24,25). When vacuum reading stay below 26, also mean the combustian chamber burning lean. Lean burning can raise temparature up to 800'c. Despite your sensor reading as normal 400'c at the catcon, you wouldn't know what kind of harm done to your head gasket. Often I heard people going Genting come back with a wreck engine despite radiator didn't boil, there's a good chance that the head gasket was burnt during downhill due to ultra heat developed by lean burning. Manual transmission can opt of lower speed downhill. Or declutched at idling RPM. Auto/CVT, I have no experience, you'll have to figure it out.


A side note from previous midnight run with lhwj. Luke cleverly assumed the vacuum reading as KM/L, on an average bassis driving consistently at 15in/hg can actually represent 15km/l on an averaging bassis. The previous MRR2 midnight runs yielded Luke 20.5km/l, whereas I managed to clocked 16km/l kinda phenomenon FC on a BLM SE. Credit goes to Luke & his lovely BLM SE


Like it or not, vacuum reading is utmost important in our daily driving, and its the only thing that globally omitted without even realizing its importance. There are more technical knowledge in vacuum reading, which is too long story to cover. I will try to explain it in future.

If you persogarian already have android device, might as well get the OBD2 bluetooth dongle, you get much more than just a vacuum gauge. Besides, gauges in cabin is a thief magnet. If those sohigh come and break your windscreen just to take away RM60 worth of gauge, you'll be so damn pissed off.

Besides of petrol saving, vacuum reading can justify the engine health as well.

I used to put very fancy + expansive boost gauge in ma kar, until I got break in and steal away my gauges(there are 10ths of thousand of sound system in the car, but the thief just took away the gauge) Ever since, I only use chiplak. Same also, can read then no problem liao.

halo



bye

Weird ah :blink:

Stick on windscreen, the rearview mirror split to half LCD that type RM500
I always on A-Pillar. Luke is a little weird thoughm he posted picture before, but can't remember where is it. Wait for him to show you how he did it :sweat:

Btw, forgot I got video of my gauge. This is my current setup on GaGa

Get the password and make it 22in/hg on idling -_- you'll surprise how fast it pickup, how good FC it gets, and everything seems upgraded instantaneously :sweat:
Not your car rite :shock:
:sweat: :sweat:

Today i went to proton show room near kesas highway,
Didnt notice saga FL R3 was there.
The bodykit R3 damn cun. But sayang, they tak jual the bodykit R3. Just a concept.

I enjoyed it very much :wub:

does anyone here know berapa harga mentol headlight H7 saga fL? my fL right side mentol headlight kaput edy, then i bought at brother's balakong, they sold to me rm60, H7, philips brand, made in germany.. d salesperson said for H7 model for saga fL memang mahal.. & for me it's so expensive.. i asked for other brand that more cheaper.. but since at that time edy 8.30pm & i've no other choice, i just bought it.. am i been cheated??

Iswaga mia mechanical sensor easy can fix anytime, but this 1 on BLM harder lar. If I dismantle the original sensor, later ECU give engine check liao :( So, what left for me will be cutting the radiator hose, insert another sensor to power up the temperature meter. :grumble: and that's not what I'm willing to do. Frustrating...
No they will fiddle your car abit tell you gao dim jor, then after you drive out from SC, same problem again. Yiu go back komplen again, they hook up the computer on your ECU and show you some data give you piece of mind, later you drive out from SC, again same problem. :o

Some lucky ******* after drivin sometime then back to normal liao. Don't ask me why :blink: Some unfortunate like me, still living with the almost dead engine after long distance travel.
Now can count liao...  :blush: But will not pay 35k for that car lar. Show room unit, sumore kilang 2010, I think maximum can go RM23k oni. If retail, may be 28k lar. If sohigh just got their license, may be can really con them to put down 32k to fetch the 2 years "so called unregistered" but being punished by SA using a blue plate on Kesas haiwei driving 200kmh day in day out not even bother to wash 25 anniversary BLM with apek golden brown PVC seats and sohigh immitate EVO6.5 Tommi Makinnen Edition vinyl + black bonnet car. If lucky could find spilled teh ais in the car as and when SA bring the car out to subang tapau lunch :rolleyes:

Meanwhile, found a useful video

Please atleast take time to watch from 18m44s onward. Which is why so many GB problem still nodoby understand why auto car's torque converter always kong :shakehead:

Direct skip to 18m44s

Then for sure shift in high RPM is less shift shock lo. Becos after shift the RPM is go lower, ur car is not moving fast enuf, sudden loss in torque will result in shift shock. Same case when you uphill, the shift shock will be higher than during down hill provided u shift @ same RPM. Just my imagination.

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Added on September 10, 2012, 5:03 pm

May u can monitor ur fuel rate via ur OBD2 scanner...

if v12k dont wan u can take all...hahaha
c v12k wan or not if not u both half half...hahaha
u talking about cvt or at ? if at, as u like auto shifting or manual shifting is base on ur own preference... i prefer manual shifting as wana maintain a good vacuum so need to find a correct shifting point with less shock as auto shifting the vacuum will be more than 5 with less shock as well... as for i prefer shifting manual to maintain a good vacuum, as i balancing with rpm with vacuum gauge... thts how i drive now...without the gauge i will juz simply ram the pedal thn juz blame over the gaga is Fuel Dracula.... thts all juz my opinion got any offences sorry for it~!

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Added on September 10, 2012, 9:12 pm

i using the plastic type...not necessary need to use canbus... btw wat u mean loose? u always pull in and out? mine fit nicely and tight...

Time to fit a vacuum gauge then  You can hardly use his RPM as reference as it is a completely different car.

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Added on September 10, 2012, 9:48 pm

If your old car something broke then no warranty ma. Give some take some lor.

kenji update the bulk list please... TQ
shifting in 3.8k had good vacuum but shift shock..ahemm... not so nice...haha....  still trying but now car got problem cant further test after fixing will test again...lol been once shifting @ 7k from L-2 gear... shock wise..haha.. still ok lar... lolz after finalize will share with u guyz...

for LED yap maybe urs too heavy..as mine only 5 LED urs is 12 led rite... actually 5 or 9 led is enuff already no need 12 led lo.... JPJ can kacau u anytime, if u had face problem...
my car still stock ler...

Guys I want to buy second saga blm for 25 k issit worth it?
RM 50 can go how many km's?
I'm a very tall person too, so I hope I can fit