I was thinking of placing my subwoofer in this position in my hatchback.



Any issue that I need to think of? Things that need to be considered? Expected result?

the only thing u have to worry is how are you gonna put stuff at the boot w/o damaging the driver? and oso, where will the spare tyre sit?

I wont be keeping the spare tyre in the trunk.

I might put a grill for protection

.... and maybe raise the floor a bit for better clearance for the magnet

This is just a planning anyway....

it looks unique though.. but since u saz not gonna put anything in the trunk, why not get a wooden box enclosure?

actually... i said i wont be putting the sparetyre in the trunk.... not anything

spare tyre removed so that i can fit the driver that way.

i need the boot space, if i use an enclosure box there wouldn't be much space left

hmmmm should be ok ...
if there is unwanted noise ... it should be comming from screws around it

i would say a box or cabinet should sound better. this setup is more likely a freeair. and of course u need a solid floorbed as well

the trunk floor should be sealed right?

what happen if i make it ported?

how about power requirements for free air subs (is this considered free air or semi-free air?)

what's the differences of free air setup with the magnet or the woofer face exposed?

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 7 2006, 09:54 PM

although i'm no expert, but wouldn't bolting the subs to the car floor will somehow affect the chassis too? slight vibration to the chassis?

but, the vibration *might* be a desired property...

the trunk floor would be raised a little bit so that the driver magnet wont be touching the chassis floor. perhaps some insulation might be extra helpful?

I tried this setup before, The bass is not deep enough, but the car vibrate like hell.. it is better to install in woofer enclosure. It will sound better if you have 2 woofers and build an Isobaric (push & pull) box for them.

the problem is 2x10" subs with single enclosure already taken up more than half of my boot space, something that i don't want for a daily driven car as i need to put stuffs in my trunk (keeping stuffs at the back seat is not safe.... inviting car break-in theives).

somehow i'm still gathering infos on this kind of setup because there are still autoshow cars with free air subs setups and their stuffs are not cheap. how do they maintain the quality? we know that using expensive brands with crappy setup would be a waste right?

i know having the drivers facing the back seat wont be a good idea, that'd kill the rear passenger.

EDIT: for those who don't know the size of a Civic EF hatchback trunk size... check out the pic above, it's around that size. I need boot space badly

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 7 2006, 10:22 PM

Isobaric won't that up much space, the size of the box only about 1cubic ft. This is how isobaric look like.. you can take it in and out anytime you want, by using banana jack.

can u explain more about the push-pull setting?

shud be one push, and the other one pull...

aaaa.... 2 subs = one +ve/-ve, the other one -ve/+ve, in other words:

either < < or > >

first sub connected normally +ve/-ve, so the cone move up-down, the other sub outside connected -ve/+ve to give down/up cone movement, so both cone move the same up-down and down-up.... thus the push-pull setting?

but between the two sub connected like <> must be air-tight (some kinda seal between them)

isobaric wont give u twice the power, but, it will save space... 2x8" subs in an isobaric would be the same as 1x8" sealed... Its not really an enclosure type but more like a woofer loading method.

*your idea of free-air sub like that is.... not very good... better get a small sub instead... try kicker substation 8"

This post has been edited by pokju: Feb 9 2006, 09:50 AM

OK.... maybe I should just spend on a good acceptable size single subs in an enclosure..... probably 1x 10" subs with sealed enclosure. after reading some articles on the net, most of them advised a small subs with sealed enclosure for hatchbacks.... cabin gain thingy advantage wise. (reference: http://www.carsound.com/articles/publish/printer_278.shtml)

probably looking at Infinity or Kicker series.

what's the difference between single and double voice coil?

should I go for monoblock or bridged 2-Channel amp?

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 9 2006, 09:40 PM

sealed or ported very much depends on the power requirement and the enclosure size itself

10 inchers can sound deeper than 12 inchers if given the right power and right enclosure
u can try to make the enclosure with cake box shape
with insultation all round(places that touches that chasis)
heard 1 setup wit the same setup
impressive i would say

if u want loud bass but dont want the box size to be big or the quantity of sub to limit down to only1. try a band pass design.

what is band pass design?

no real diff except: flexibility of wiring options

single SVC sub with 4ohm can match with 4ohm amps
but, single DVC sub can either take 1/4/8ohm depends on ur amp

example mohawk red 10" red DVC sub > its 1/4ohm, (1 or 4 ohms) means each coil rated at 2ohm

so if u wire it parallel, it'll become 2+2=4ohm load on ur amp, but if u wire it in series > it'll become 2ohm divided by 2 coil = 1ohm load on ur amps (if ur amp can take 1ohm load, most prolly not)... its just like a simple wiring method when we were at kindergarten level > series vs parallel...

OR, if u use 2 dvc subs and got 1 unit of 4 channel amp, u can also use each channel for each voice coil = independent wiring... same like 1 dvc wired to 2 channel amp with 1 channel for each coil

watch ur amp rating, if its stable to 2ohm, dun try and wire a dvc sub (like that mohawk) to 1 ohm load = fo shure burn = confirm burn ur amp....

if, u got the money, and a bit hardcore = go for monoblock = dedicated amp designed mostly for subs....

Class D = mono amps draw less current, produce less heat, and are more efficient than conventional amp . They're specifically designed for low-frequency reproduction, built-in bass boost and low-pass filters.

*though u can use a 2-channel amp and bridge the amp to single channel operation for a single woofer.

*haih.. leteh menaip...

*edit: a single dvc is no way much better or much more powderful than a single svc with the same exact specs dvc created just for the flexibility of wiring... nowadays also got quad voice coil = qvc (not approved in ICE competition though )

bandpass =



a combination of a sealed and vented enclosure build for a reason, front (inside) act as LPF, filter mechanical noise generated by the woofer. another reason can add 2 woofer in a single (normal size) box (space constrain) ... many configuration also > single reflex bandpass (single sub), isobaric+single reflex (2 subs), three chamber (2subs) , and three chamber isobaric (4 subs)

*the mods just have to read and understand, and if u feels like in a DIY mode, try messing around with ur subs+amps experience does help

This post has been edited by pokju: Feb 11 2006, 07:19 AM

band pass can boost up the lows up to +-3db. the only trouble with this is, when u put a bandpass closure in a boot(another closure) it will make things worst. another theory is when a ported closure in a boot (seal closure), it will automatically act as an band pass is some setup this is just what u get from too much ICE. pardon my ignorance

if u put your woofer like the first pic there, u will have a hell lots of vibration! the floor board will be shaking like earth quake and your metal body will vibrate too. except if u put thick mat like the superlon under your woofer to reduce the vibration. but its not 100% sealed so its not that perfect interm of performance.

i would recommend ditching the woofer and get a real good component set and test it out first. some quality component set would have enough bass that your friend tot you are running a 8" sub. or even a 10" sub.
everything need to blend in, like your amp, your crossover and component... try the focal utopia or K2 series.. if u have the budget.

if ur purpose of getting a sub is for blasting (sound pressure level SPL) then you definately need a big enclosure or a very good free air type of sub. all boil down to your wallet....

some how I don't agree...

you need subs to play low frequencies.... no matter how good the comps are, you won't be able to hit the lows because the midbass have it's limit.

I don't listen to choir or acapella songs... so bass sound is a must

Anyway, I've already decided my choice in the 1st page....

This post has been edited by soulfly: Feb 12 2006, 03:25 PM

dude... found this on the net...

Does subwoofer placement matters in sound staging?

I noticed some different subwoofer trunk positions but afraid these setups are not good for SQ...

for me it is not neccesary to place the sub in the middle.just like your pc speaker...the sub will be either right/center/left and other directions that are appropiate.actually i am also in the same scenario with soulfly,thinking to put the sub but reluctant to put those big box into the boot coz i need those space.picture no 1 should be ok for me.