What type of "weird" problem? Describe in detail. Nowadays CRT monitors have little value (not worth fixing), may as well get a LCD/LED monitor.

If that line stays in the same place all the time including during the BIOS POST screen then its likely a panel problem. How old is that monitor, and is it still under warranty?

Brand, model and size? Try tapping on the top frame area of that line, and see if it changes color or more lines appear. You can also try pressing slightly (not too hard) the top area where the line starts from, and see if there are changes...

Size? You can check the model number on the label at the back of the monitor...

Does it appear all the time, or just appears after some time? Usually for panel problems, have to replace whole panel. Other than that, have to know how to check for cracks or connection problems at the TCP (tape carrier package) on the panel. Do you know how to do that?

// Edit: See example below...


This post has been edited by lex: Sep 2 2012, 07:20 PM

Whoah! That's monitor uses a PMVA panel (true 16.7 million colors) instead of the usual TN panel. Also its native resolution is actually 1680x1050 instead of the usual 1600x900 found on most 20" widescreen monitors nowadays.

You have a few choices, really. First, just continue to use the monitor while ignoring that line. Second, get a new monitor and put aside that monitor as spare or sell it off as scrap. I could also take a look closely and see if I could apply the tape+padding trick though the chances are quite low for it to work since tapping, pressure and warming up on the panel did not alter the line in any way. Anyway, the tape carrier thingy is pretty delicate and further influence could make it worse (e.g. another line appears). That's why for this type of problem, usually whole panel has to be replaced although its not recommended as the price of that replacement panel alone (usually anywhere from at least RM200 and higher) can buy a brand new monitor (ie. usually only worth for monitors sizes 23" and above).

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 2 2012, 10:23 PM

This one is usually the power supply section, usually badcaps. But the "pop" sounds could be from the backlight section (again possible badcaps). This one is usually easy to fix. If you want, the just ask/PM me...

I've used quite a number of monitors already, though mostly from Acer and BenQ ones, and a few Samsungs. My current one, BenQ FP222W has been running fine (already 5 years). Usually I tend to stick to known big/established brands, rather than going for less known ones like Envision, Proview, IIyama, Planar, VHO, etc. Hardware support is pretty important for LCD monitor.

As many has mentioned/recommended here, bigger than 20" would be Dell UltraSharp U2312HM...

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 2 2012, 10:37 PM

No idea, but the symptoms described (in bold) are usually indicative of power supply problems (e.g having to switch off or disconnect before can switch on back again).

Short for "bad capacitors". In many power supplies, capacitors can determine the stability of the power being delivered. If capacitors go bad then will have random and intermittent problems.

AOC is actually an OEM for many monitor brands, though nowadays they decided to also compete in the market under their own brandname. The others like Acer, BenQ and Samsung are also OEMs to brands like Dell, HP, IBM, etc. Generally in terms of spare parts and replacements, brands like Acer, BenQ, Samsung and Dell are plentiful and easier to find since they are more common...

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 3 2012, 12:01 AM

Nope, still white with no hint of yellowish at all. But its not as bright or as "whitish" as before though. At least it was not reddish (for your information, reddish is usually an indicator of failing CCFL). Mine uses AUO panel (opened up before) while I've seen other FP222W monitors with Chi Mei panels (and different layout internally). Talking about white, my ancient Acer AL1717 is truly paper white (talking about brand new paper color) despite its age. Even my other monitor, Acer H233H (with Samsung panel) cannot match the older Acer monitor when it comes to white.

Which IPS monitor will you choose next? Viewsonic or Dell?

Could be the CCFL used as well as the material used for refraction and diffusion layers. Usually when CCFL goes bad, you'll see reddish (sometime orange or ocre) tint as well as flickering (and in worse cases flashing). Anyway, what's your previous LCD brand/model?

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 3 2012, 06:37 PM

If not mistaken this monitor is manufactured by TPV Technology.

Yes, it can happen on IPS also. As mentioned earlier, could be backlight degradation as well as material used.

If bang-per-buck then of course choose the cheapest one, BenQ in that list. Other candidates are Acer S200HL LED (RM299) and BenQ G2025HD (RM279), prices are from Viewnet. Make sure the monitors you are going to buy has DVI input...

For the feedbacks, you will have to wait for people who have bought those monitors to comment here...

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 3 2012, 10:01 PM

I think I've mentioned before about the good apple and bad apple analogy when it comes to longevity. Very much depends on your luck actually. Similar to dead pixels (factory defect)...

Even if you bought a Samsung monitor, the panel itself may not be Samsung. As I've fixed lots of LCD monitors before, Samsung monitors also uses panels from AUO, Chi Mei, ChungHwa, Hannstar, etc.

If money was no objection, you would be looking to grab 30-inch Apple Cinema Display...

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 4 2012, 11:29 PM

Mine lasted 5 years and still going strong, but the same cannot be said for other owners of the same monitor. My brother's Samsung SyncMaster 932B+ is still running fine but I've seen others broke down often. Thus pretty much a lottery draw when it comes to longevity...

That Acer H233H mentioned earlier uses Samsung panel, although its not a Samsung monitor...

And you thought Dell was the bees knees...

Describe the "petak1" (squarish) thingy. Have run color banding test, as well as the 256 color levels test?

What's your graphic card brand/model?

There's a good reason why many recommended the U2312HM over that one. You can check this previous post here and decide yourself... This post has been edited by lex: Sep 11 2012, 05:29 PM

Bigger and better is always welcomed, not the opposite...

Just use the same type of power cord as used on your PC's. No need to consider the power rating as LCD monitors are low power devices. Also no need to worry about the fuse rating as well, since internally the monitor also has a fuse.

This post has been edited by lex: Sep 15 2012, 04:55 PM

Did you set any power saving modes such as (hibernation, switching off monitor after certain inactivity period, etc) on your PC?

Did you use hibernation? Try switching off all power saving modes. Sometimes it will take quite a bit of time for the monitor to respond (and detect your graphic card signals). Also which cable connection did you use? What did you do when the monitor did not respond?

If you had to restart the PC rather than off-and-on back the monitor, then its likely the source of your problem is the PC itself. Just disable all power saving modes, especially disable hibernation.

I'd say that's a badcap problem, on the inverter side...

Do you have any wireless devices (e.g. handphone, WiFi dongle/receiver, wireless phone, etc) around the monitor? Also you may want to check your power connections (ie. avoid multi-plug bricks). Try using a AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator) if the problem persists. Other than that, there's a possibility of getting a bad batch...

Is that a multi-plug power strip, or one of those multi-plug brick? Usually I would recommend using power strips with individual plugs for each equipment. Best to avoid using multi-plug bricks as much as possible...

Let me guess, you're using VGA connection?

This one is without doubt bad inverter section (for CCFLs) and/or bad power to the backlighting (for LEDs).

Perhaps its just a bad batch, as mentioned earlier. You may want to consider changing to a different brand/model...

Could be bad backlight problem (ie. LED degrade?). If its still under warranty then recommend sending it for RMA.