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 Perodua Kenari User Club V2, A Different Point Of View

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radi0head
post Jan 30 2015, 09:01 AM

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QUOTE(wanobi @ Jan 26 2015, 05:58 PM)
Thanks Sir

I will try skim the disc brake. Just the "tuck sound" comes underneath the passenger seat. Or maybe CV joint.

I will make an appointment with P1 service centre and if they don't have any clue I guess I should not worry about it.

flex.gif  flex.gif
Is the sound like there's a 'hanging steel rod' underneath somewhere and 'tak tak tak' sound when on slow drive ? Especially if you go to an alley or passing by a wall beside you, the sound is very obvious ?

I am having such issue now and I am suspecting the drive-shaft...

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wa... your kenari is so clean and your paint is so nice still... original paint or repainted again ? In Malaysia kind of weather, hard to maintain an always clean car... hmm...

radi0head
post Feb 2 2015, 07:29 AM

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QUOTE(v1n0d @ Feb 1 2015, 10:09 AM)
It's probably not your driveshaft. I had the same sound, found out it was due to the exhaust pipe knocking around. Try check on that first as it's cheaper to repair.
I had rusted and broken pipe from the tong before. the sound were different.

Well, my problem solved. Guess no one would have my problem before. Don't know how de heck or who put a small thin stainless steel washer INSIDE of my tire and everytime i drive slow especially... I will hear the 'ting ting ting' sound... Good too that it is not the drive-shaft else, a bigger damage already...




radi0head
post Feb 2 2015, 09:05 AM

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QUOTE(tommi88 @ Feb 2 2015, 08:59 AM)
that fella who did it must be shot in the head nicely. i think he is trying to gimmick you to replace all the parts, then lastly only say 'oh, actually is due to the washer inside one of your tyre that is causing the noise'.
Tire bought and install at different shop so, the culprit is the tyre shop... no, it's my regular mech, he did not asked me to replace any parts... just diagnose the sound issue and took him almost half a day only to found out, it's the aluminium washer that is causing the sound... rclxub.gif
radi0head
post Feb 3 2015, 12:50 PM

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QUOTE(tommi88 @ Feb 2 2015, 04:15 PM)
then that shop should be banned. such workmanship.  mad.gif  mad.gif  mad.gif
Klang's infamous 'kedai papan'...

My A/C koyak once after like 10years... never had mounting issues till now for a 10years old kenari... *phew~
As for A/C, make sure you service it regularly too and not until when A/C not cold, got sound etc only you went to the workshop...

Anyhow, it is a good daily beater ride... thumbup.gif
radi0head
post Apr 17 2015, 11:14 AM

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Anyone of you here got 'refurbish' or 'rewrap' the original steering ? Mine is peeling already... wacko.gif

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radi0head
post Apr 17 2015, 05:21 PM

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QUOTE(kllam @ Apr 17 2015, 02:55 PM)
i had the same problem as u and i change my steering to a daihatsu one

daihatsu steering mostly about RM2xx and most of it need roller, had to survey around as some sell with roller and some do not. if u want cheaper, can go for stock kenari or kelisa steering
roller ? Wonder how much would 'rewrap' cost. As do not want to have another steering lying around. Anyone interested in lowering down their rides ? I got coil springs to let go... original Sparco, comes with the original box too... bought it new previously... cool2.gif




radi0head
post Apr 17 2015, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(tommi88 @ Apr 17 2015, 05:28 PM)
The cost of rewrapping the steering will cost as much as buying a halfcut move original momo steering wheel. you can replace the steering and dump the old one away since the skin has already torn off.

you can ask other members though, they may be interested.
O... so expensive har ? Hmm... had quit on modding. Ride it original now. Still da' best... rclxms.gif
radi0head
post Apr 17 2015, 05:41 PM

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QUOTE(tommi88 @ Apr 17 2015, 05:38 PM)
yes, re-wrapping is not cheap. unless you are willing to fork out the amount then should be ok. Welcome to the club, we have some members who remain their car stock.  rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif
It is good to remain stock. Reliability and durability are there for our rides. Only a/c sometimes in de afternoon, not enough power... lately is damn hot during a hot sunny day... sweat.gif
radi0head
post Jan 10 2016, 01:13 PM

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QUOTE(Bazinga! @ Jan 10 2016, 02:34 AM)
Hi, need some advice. Recently my kenari engine oil leaking into the spark plug chamber.
went to shop, mech tell me to change rocker cover/valve cover terus. i've read and also heard before that there's another more cost efficient way which is just to replace the plug seals.
is it recommended to just change the plug seals instead of the whole cover?
what are your thoughts?
thanks in advance
Changing the rocker cover is better as you'll have a cleaner overall engine compartment... I'm sure the leaks now and surrounding area of your rocker cover is dirty with oil on it...

radi0head
post Feb 4 2016, 07:56 PM

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QUOTE(Bazinga! @ Jan 11 2016, 12:28 AM)
thank you very much for the advice bro. surrounding area very little, only that oil is leaking into the spark plug chamber, unintentionally flooding it slightly. even ran on 2 cylinders for awhile.
thank you for the advice as well bro.

So if thats the case, roughly how much does that valve cover cost? mech quote me about 500 siap pasang. which i know is exorbitantly expensive.
i checked online, its between 160-180 for the valve cover. i havent check at normal spare part shop yet. its that the market price roughly?
i dont mind diy myself to remove the plug seal, but afraid that it is impossible to do; thats why come forum and ask for advise.
the normal valve cover gasket is roughly 20-30rm iinm.
appreciate the help, thanks in advance yet again.  thumbup.gif
you try looking around lor... budget it about RM 400 all in should be OK. Well, try to stick with just one mech rather than keep on changing and looking for new mechs... well, most important is a trustable mechs...

QUOTE(ahsam1212 @ Feb 1 2016, 12:02 PM)
Anyone here experienced water temperature going low n up again to normal once in a while?
No engine overheating problem.  Not losing any coolant in radiator n spare tank. 
Any idea?
I think it should be the meter needle goes haywire d. I had the same problem too on not the temperature but the fuel meter... So long that it are 'up' on that level before, I know that there's still fuel in my tank. Moreover, I also uses my odometer to judge on my fuel=distance...

Today, my brake starts to have hissing sound already... checked and guess it is time to change the rotor disc... mine is too thin to skim d... Any recommendation on wat rotor is best to get ? Else, I will just go for new original ones...
radi0head
post Feb 5 2016, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(jaesern @ Feb 5 2016, 07:27 AM)
check brake pad thickness as well. imho, all standard disc rotor is more or less the same, go for big brand will be the safest.
O... just changed pad... and then hissing comes... see see, disc is thinning and also de original thickness and now had been thinning already... can see at the edge of the disc...

QUOTE(kengseng @ Feb 5 2016, 08:14 AM)
Anyone know the estimation price for front wheel bearing change?
if 1 side, should be plus minus rm100 or less ? I can't recall already how much is the last round I changed... hehe... blush.gif
radi0head
post May 18 2017, 08:28 PM

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Guys... would like to change new shocks... any particular brand to recommend now that is available in the market ? hmm.gif
radi0head
post May 19 2017, 08:39 PM

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QUOTE(jaesern @ May 18 2017, 10:28 PM)
because not question was raised.
i'm using Sachs Super Touring, good for replacement parts. if adjustable dampers i don't have any good, reliable and cheap one.
O, Sachs good ha ? Not going for adjustables... norm ones will do. APM Performax any better than Sachs ? Anyone tried ? Any comment ?

Last time I bought Gabriel before for my Kancil... it was durable but not sure whether they have it for Kenari or not...


radi0head
post May 22 2017, 08:07 PM

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QUOTE(jaesern @ May 22 2017, 12:40 PM)
[/spoiler]
imho, no decent adjustable in the market for Kenari, unless you don't mind to go for halfcut like Tein or Tanabe (i prefer this), or second hand HWL or GAB, use it until leaking then send to third party rebuild. mind that HWL and GAB tend to leaks.

APM were my first replacement about 8 years ago, it's a short stroke dampers. bought it because of cheap, but no point for me to use it because i don't lowered. and Sachs wasn't in Malaysia back then.

Gabriel is available for Kenari, do search around, if you prefer it then why not?

Sachs is slightly slightly harder on damping then standard replacement like KYB and APM. comfort is still there of course because it's still oe replacement.
Thanks for the feedback.

Any recommend place to get Sachs or you aware where to get Gabriel for Kenari ? The previous spare-part shop I went to no more selling Gabriel.

O... APM Performax were short-stroke ? hmm.gif




 

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