But there quite dangerous at night although a lot of car park space. anywhere else in kepong can suggest?

old town no problem. jz tell me if today confirm TT

aiya i must reply ke? 

the respond is cold... guess no one is interested 

So...how izzit?

it's both carbon deposit and engine oil. i guess you always keep your engine running without driving it?
don't mod. maintain it or sell it    power windows is simple stuff, not hard to replace. gear shifting stuck? seems like you're driving a manual? car noisy? i would like to know what is noisy, possible?


that's because tonberry_ax's birdie is old version, the one among first gen, fc is bloody good compare to tommi88's '05 birdie, which is a facelifted version. muh_is's case is because engine is powerful  , that's why less effort for the engine to drive the car, hence fc can reach 450km even tekan 

Mine is auto. and always stuck in traffic jam. batu caves - klang daily via mrr2-LDP-Federal-Kesas (110KM+- daily). u know how the traffic is during peak hours 
but again, maybe due to the engine, hence why i was able to get around 450+KM per full tank?

My one is 2004 auto. All city drive .Full tank can get 370km. The meter drop to empty but afraid to go further than this.
I still consider a bit fuel consuming as  when I compare, Waja auto is more fuel economy than Kenari auto .

hi,

i wish to introduce a workshop that i have been going for the past few months, had done a significant jobs over there and i must say the costs were very reasonable and lower than most workshops ive been so far

the advantages that i have found on this workshop:

home operated - very flexible timing, night also can send and pickup, and also the reason for the fairly low price overall, no rental to be worried about

the place is well equipped with necessary tools despite doing at home

he does mainly perodua cars namely kelisa, kancil, myvi and kenari so the guy has vast experience. he does all from normal maintenance, engine swap to spot welding, the price is very reasonable

call him for appointment, raymee 012 314 1846

location is in kampung laksamana, batu caves, selangor. call him for exact location

try out his service, hope this benefits

yes he does, call him and consult. i can vouch for quality and cost of his work except there is usually delay in job completion, something i have to give n take for the low cost work

What engine do you plan to plonk into your engine bay? If you're going for L9 turbo, I think is better you maintain the original engine and make it better such as doing stage 1 modifications. Power wise between L9 turbo and our faithful EJ-DE is the torque delivery. HP wise is almost identical. Unless you're going to plonk K3-VET, then that is a totally different story all together. In the end, your budget is the one who decides everything.

Underpowered I think is compensable when you're carrying passengers. 3 cylinder engine needs to be revved to get going.

For handling improvement, one thing to upgrade is the front absorber mounting. This page here and here, will show you the difference between stock Kenari mounting vs Alza.

How to know if you need to change:
- If you drive downhill, step on the brakes, and notice the steering huyung-hayang...
- Over a bump, the car lands on the road with cabin noise like coming apart...
- The mountings are > 3 years old...

sold my kenari for 9k

Bye kenari after 12 years you served me well enough

hihihi ... lyn kenarianz...long time no post here dy..

I am currently using GAB Adjustables all round, UR 4 point front strut bar, 19 mm rear anti roll bar, rear upper adjustable bar and running on Kumho KU31 shoes. It believe my current setup really helps in the stability of the car. Though is not as comfortable as other cars running 170 km/h.

Not very long to reach that speed though. i didnt clock my time to reach 170 but i was focusing more on the stability at that speed.

because not question was raised.
i'm using Sachs Super Touring, good for replacement parts. if adjustable dampers i don't have any good, reliable and cheap one.