i'll call this typical problem for Kenari, as far as i encounter:
engine mounting
-genuine mounting will do the job, but expensive
front absorber mounting
-perodua alza is a good replacement
rusty and follow by broken exhaust rear section
-replacement will do
fuel gauge and/or temperature gauge malfunction
-halfcut replacement will do
radiator/aircond fan stop working
-because of aging, need to pay attention to this because there is only one fan, when aircond blow out wind without any coolness and/or temperature shoot up (that's why you need a working temp gauge), you need to do something
aircond not cold
-no solution

for buying second hand car, check for any bad accident repair mark and does the engine overheated. the rest is give and take, if you got other stuff in good condition, it's bonus; if it's not, accept it because it's second hand.

perodua sc yes, if you don't have a reliable workshop. went to perodua sc early of may ago to order steering rack bush because 3rd party supplier i'm afraid of not getting the real genuine, they layan too, but price is not cheap.

i prefer to send my car outside because i can't tahan sc attitude and i have a reliable 3rd party workshop to trust.

using Myvi stock rim, but on Kenari standard size tire, not Myvi standard size tire; Myvi tire size is too big for Kenari.

yes, standard size for Kenari 14" is 165/55r14.

your reason to go for 165/60r14?

engine trembles, i would check alternator charging and battery.

sounds like engine mount to me.

personally i'll use the 1. stock engine, 2. bolt-on turbo it, 3. k3-ve engine, 4. k3-vet engine. any other engine is waste of time.

@kllam is using 3rd party engine mount set, he is driving a manual. i'm using genuine from perodua, i'm driving an auto. please note that daihatsu packing is not genuine.

i'm still using stock engine, current mileage 220kkm+, redline whenever i'm behind the wheels, nearly 12 years old, never overhaul until today. so i would say, stock has less worries if everything is maintained accordingly.

k3vet coolant temperature issue won't be solved unless you're using the originally radiator from yrv.

if you want it for normal usage with peace of mind, get a reliable mechanic to get the engine overhaul.

if you have time to waste, it's not your primary car, you don't mind the car lose it weight balance and you're hungry for power, k3ve or with turbo is the answer.

for me, both will be more or less the same amount of money.

overhaul vs change engine.

pm me for contact and location, a few of us always gather on Saturday night.

send to your mechanic to get it rectify, guessing it blindly here don't really helps. experienced mechanic should be able to get it right.

yea call it unfortunately, taking gearbox out from kenari is easier with the engine out all together, i think it's harder just to take out gearbox but engine still in car...

if it's gearbox problem, just get the whole gearbox change is cheaper and easier than get it repaired, unless you're looking forward to brand new condition and don't mind the costing.

recon? i've doubt...

price by second hand dealer?

sorry for the slow reply, does the problem solve?

check ignition coil & socket and fuel pressure



if it's auto, i'll suggest you to take genuine Perodua mounting set, i know the price is a pain, rm700+.

if it's manual, either genuine Perodua mounting set or after market brand, Schmaco, should be priced rm300+-.

shock absorber, choose either comfort or handling, unfortunately we're not driving Bentley, there won't be perfect comfort and handling.



1. sounds like wiring or connector on switch or window motor short circuited.
2. check starter; cheapskate not permanent solution which might kill the starter faster, hold your key on 'start' position until the engine starts to crank.
3. your question?!
4. ionizer, 4x 10mm bolt to take out whole assembly, unplug the socket and reinstall back.
5. same for all Kenari/Kelisa, no solution unless you're planning to retrofit an aftermarket a/c system, i won't recommend, better just live with it.

sounds like driver side door actuator (or door gun in layman term), or it might be just wiring issue or worst case alarm module.

anyone can fix the problem, as long as they're willing to find out the issue, and how they gonna fix it. sc might tell you can't be repaired, or since kenari is old car, they might just say can't help; go to accs shop, they'll say can't repair need to change everything.

window issue answered on previous post.


i'm driving auto as well, used once 3rd party mounting set, gone in around one year time; after that only use genuine set for mounting.

safest of all, go Perodua sc and buy, be ready no ready stock and cutting throat price, get it install in sc or bring out to get someone to install;

take some risk, get from reputable and trustable spare part shop, judge the parts yourself. don't ever get daihatsu parts, that's not perodua genuine.


on shock absorber, Sachs absorber full set + Schmaco's Alza shocks top mounting.

i only run on genuine mounting, i break aftermarket one too easily.


changing piston ring means it's full overhaul; top overhaul doesn't touch on engine block.

btw, why need to change piston ring?

as i can understand, silicone wipers have higher resistance on wiping compare to rubber.

also, last batch Kenari in the market is already 12 years old, ageing on wiper motor is need to take in consideration.

i'm using silicone wipers + glass coating, wiper only on intermittent most of the time, rarely on first speed.

oldest alza in market is 2009, oldest kelisa is 2001, kancil is 1994.

check your wiper operation by looking from outside of the car, wiper blade might hit the windscreen molding and made the sound. unless you're the lucky one, in my experience other than silicone blade, hardly any other part of wiper made sound.

which part of gearbox is leaking?

let say, all engine oil seal + all gearbox oil seal + labour to drop engine + labour to change all oil seal = rm1.3k~2k? good money wey!

although you've sold the kenari, i would suggest you to avoid these 3 mechanics in the future!

cheers!

H4
H3 (for peanut, not sure about aerodown and rs)
festoon 31mm
w5w (t10 if it's led)

w16w (t15 if it's led)