To me personally..if travel alot on outstation..i will use semi syn..only town use..mineral is enough...
Mineral after on highway long time..the performance become slugish...
Only my opinion..

i use fully synthetic and mostly drive around town... at 7000km, the car feels like crap and FC also sh!tty

thanks bro, you da man!

ask you bout handling also then... see if you experienced before...

taken from earlier post:

Hi I got problem...2007 vios..not dugong one...engine will stalls/missfire sometimes after engine hot. When drive still can go 80km/h and more... after sometimes the missfire will stop and engine become smooth....and after sometimes missfire again if stopping at traffic light....during cold condition (raining) less frequent...any idea???

Spark plug already replace but still the same condition..if not mistaken the ignition coil no problem told by one of the mechanic....

Sent 2 times already to same workshop..1st time just change ignition coil socket only and took me about rm100..engine work fine for 2 days...then check light engine on with engine missfire...resent for check...wiring problem at evaporator repair it for free...engine work fine for 2 days..no check engine check light but problem arise back..i think maybe weak ignition coil problem..say the same problem pattern from some of the blog after u inform me the inginition coil problem...damn...just sent my car for early bid service/repair at pj ss19 service centre...

I'm driving a 1st generation Vios and had a similar issue just a few months back. Had a long write up here too on the issue but you'll have to go through the whole thread and dig it up.

I'll try to summarize the issue again here.
1. Engine warning light came on.
2. Car would stall in the middle of the road when driving at low RPM.
3. Found out to be one of the wiring harness. To be specific, it was the crankshaft sensor wire, which sends the details on the engine combustion back to the ECU. I actually send it back to Toyota and they charged RM25 only to diagnose the issue. Best to send it back to them since they can hook it up to their PC and run a full diagnose. They will then generate a report with the error code and let you know what has went wrong. Fixing it is another cost entirely, which they say must change the entire wiring system (a few hundred metres of cabling just because a small section snapped). Quoted me RM4k+ for the whole job but I did it outside for only RM40.
4. Drove the car for around a month and then the warning light came on again.
5. This time, it was more serious. The engine warning light came on and off, flickering. The car also misfired badly, as if someone suddenly bang you from the back, sudden surge in front and then break. Like a real, cruel shake, all within a 30cm of distance. Engine also died off more frequently. When the car engine died, it wasn't easy to start it back up. Had a few embarrassing moments when car died off, tried restarting immediately and it just wouldn't.
6. Self diagnosed if it was the same section of the wire that snapped. Wire seems intact. Took it back to Toyota yet again to check. Cost me RM25 and this time, they found out that some other part had failed. Wasn't the fuel injector but something close to it with supporting function (can't recall the name right now). Cost me RM300+ for the part.
7. It's been more than a month since I changed the part and so far, the car is doing great. Clocked more than 200k kms on my car and its still going strong.

In short, if you see your warning engine light, best to just give it to Toyota to check. They do a good job in finding out the problem, since they have the proper tools. But fixing it, you can easily go outside and do it on your own, since you already know the problem. I gave it to them because I was just kinda lazy to drive the car around. Further more, it was just outright scary driving the car when it was problematic. I had to drive it like at 6am in the morning, when the traffic was clear so that if anything went wrong, I would not be having people cursing and swearing at me.

Hope that helps.

One question. If install a turbo in Vios, you will get more power. However, wouldn't it damage the interior of the engine as it was constructed in a way to withstand this much of power.

Well, to answer your question, when one install a turbocharger, he/she will also install the other supporting accessories to support the change. For instance, you will need much more cooling, in terms of an oil cooler, additional fins over your stock radiator, lower compression piston and rods, exhaust manifold for higher output, piping to intake, air and fuel controller and a whole lots of other tiny bits and pieces.

So, buying a turbocharger only that is worth a few thousand ringgit won't really help. First, it will most probably not work, and if it does, it will certainly damage the car, as you mentioned. Can't just buy a turbocharger and pop it in.

Secondly, if you do change the whole environment of the car to a turbo setup, then the supporting environment also needs to be upgraded, such as the handling and also the brakes.

500/hp.. Are we looking at the same guy?
his site is www.viosturbo.com

Do you have any recommended shop for the 1st stage turbo?

Is it possible to get below Rm5k?

500hp on vios? your vios can easily killed any R35 on the road... god car...

1st thing come to my mind, is it safe to drive 

Nah, no way. Although 500bhp on paper looks good, its still quite far off from harming a R35. One thing for sure, a R35 still has MORE bhp and also torque. And more importantly, the torque for a R35 is max out from 3.2k rpm onwards all the way to 5.5k rpm. While for this vios on steroids, torque only starts to really kick in from 4k rpm and only closes in on max at 5k rpm.

R35 is all wheel drive, and this will certainly help a lot in a sprint showdown. Drag coefficient is at 0.26 vs Vios's 0.30.

The hp and torque chart is very important as it shows when the power is 'available' for use. Diesel engines give very good low RPM power, for example, the 320d. Power peaks at around 3,700 rpm, easily achievable on your daily drive while for the vios 500 hp, it peaks out at 8,000 rpm. How to achieve on normal road?

It's like saying your telco provider can provide you 3.5G/LTE speed speeds of 75Mbps for web browsing, but only from 2am-6am. LOL

Im agree.  Rear of new vios quite ugly... 2nd gen  vios more aerodynamic...  new vios reintroduce radio antenna..  =.= more aerodynamic drag

My Vios is giving me problem again, as highlighted a few months back. 9 year old 1st generation Vios, clocked around 200k. Engine warning light comes on, and at times, engine dies of when idling (stand still traffic). So, to prevent this, I've to engage to N during traffic jams and rev the engine when it feels like its going to die off.

UMW quoting me RM4k+ to change the main engine harness. Doubt it that's the problem and not surprised if the problem comes back again. Anybody familiar with this problem or know of any good mechanics that I can go to? I think I need to go to a wiring specialist for this, and not a general mechanic. There could be a possibility the insulation pipes around the wires could have melted off and thus, some wires might have been damaged. This does happen and even if yes, the area of impact is localized. Just have to change that wires in that area and not spend a fortune on the whole engine's cabling... :-/

Don't get conned by UMW.

It could be a simple throttle body / maf sensor cleaning. they can get clogged over time.

Yeap, definitely not going to change the main wiring harness. Absurd, given the price of it and the value of the car. More importantly, I don't see the need to change wiring that is tenths of metres long when the possible cause could be a small area of cables that have snapped or turned brittle.

Ok, will certainly check out both that parts. Know of any good wiring mechanics with experience? My idea is to have them check the most common parts that have such related problems.

i suggest have a different thread for 3rd gen vios

Brought it to a wireman and he fixed it. Apparently, when he opened up the insulation around the wires, there were 2 wires that have snapped already. Lucky that the wires that snapped are right above the engine and not deep inside, which will make it hard to fix. Reconnected the wires and car is working fine now (no more engine warning light). What was worrying is he was mentioning that the wires in general were already old and brittle, thus, other wires could also break and snap.

The fact that the engine vibrates quite hard when in idling position doesn't help either. I think it's about time I get myself a new car. 9 years is just about right. Served me long and well.

Lesson number 1: If your car is above 10 years or so, be very careful. It's about time.

My 2005 Vios power steering belt snap yesterday when i was driving at 80km/h low RPM. Does this cost me a lot to repair? I havent fire up my car since then..