Either your battery will run out of juice and when you crack you might hear spark sound(tak tak sound), stop cranking and change battery to avoid damaging your starter. Jump start is just a temporary solution, battery which are fully drain wont have the full charging capacity like before and your battery will die off easily.

If battery ok and car can start, your engine may still die off due to low pressure at fuel injector, so just keep your foot at accelarator when cranking to supply fuel to your engine.

When you say coil you meant ignition coil? Is your engine juddering?

Have pmed you but I will also list down here so that everyone can refer if have any issue with engine juderring and not jump straight to replacing ignition coil.

- Change spark plug
- Check whether ignition cable are loose ( our engine has 2 ignition coil and 2 ignition cable ), due to long usage sometimes engine juddering will cause the cable to be abit loose.
- CLEAN Throttle Body
- Check ignition coil tube whether is there any leak or holes, just tape it with high temp tape and problem solved

If you are too free and forever alone, you can actually remove the spring coil from the ignition coil to clean off the rust to reduce resistance. Just remove the long rubber tube CAREFULLY as the spring inside may break, take spring out and clean the rust and dirt off.

Note : Sometimes the spring will be so rusted or dirty(especially cars with high mileage) it may look like it will break apart so do it at your own descreation! Our ignition coil normally fail is due to high resistance from the coil that cause the ignition internals to burnt up, if you wan you can invest in gold spring that will reduce resistance and make your ignition coil last longer.

Exhasut sensor is a wear and tear item so its normal for it to be spoilt after long usage. But check with a mechanic who have ECU fault reader for confirmation.

Things you can try but its not 100% workable, put grounding cables onto the exhaust sensor.

Engine check light on will put the car in limb mode and engine will run at rich fuel mixture, so downside is bad fuel consumption.

This post has been edited by quackpack: Aug 14 2012, 03:12 PM

Ohlins go big or go home

Yes absorber that fits SSS will fit SS

If you plan to mod your ride, gx is definitely a better choice, save those money to put what you want instead of wasting on accessories that you will remove when modding.

FC - I would say average, nothing to shout about where RM65(RON95) can typically last 360-400km in city drive

Handling & Stability - How aggressive you drive is how you will rate it, stock form will give you until a certain confidence level, at the end of the day when you really just wan to do touge, you wont be looking at stock option at all. Just changing to street performance tyres will give you different handling characteristic, not to mention springs and coil-overs.

Reliability - So far Swift has it's ups and down, it really comes down to your luck. Realistically, you may drive up to 150k km and face no problems(provided you did proper servicing). If bad luck, you may face issues which are quite well documented for Swift so solving it will not be an issue just spare parts may be much more expensive than Toyota.

Lastly, if you are modding for performance, please start with brakes first

Swift mileage meter stalk by just pressing it, it can change to 3 different readings,

1) Total Mileage
2) Trip A
3) Trip B

Trip A and Trip B can be reset by holding down the stalk for few seconds,

Actually don't need to waste money on throttle body cleaner.

Just buy a cheapo oil catch tank, throw away the given pipe and go buy a right size gas pipe enough to connect from crank case pipe to oil catch tank + a size 12 stopper to cover the connection from crank case to throttle body.

Already 1 year+ and throttle body has no grim like last time.

Stiff ring is just to reduce free-play of the steering rack hence giving better feedback from steering response, it has no means to solve steering rack problem.

Which SC did you go get it check?

My car did got kluk sound but its not from my steering rack, end up found its just metal to metal contact of front ARB with lower arm.

How old is your car? How many km done? if more than 100k then check your ignition coil.

If ignition coil problem I got spare set for sale cheaper than SC

Hi All,

I am letting go my 15' original Enkei RPF1 PCD 100 with PS3 195/55 for RM1.6k swap with your original suzuki rim and tyres.

Also have new set(x2) ignition coil letting go cheap.

Edit :

Tyre thread left >50%

Selling due to becoming pasar pagi car

Labor on buyer

This post has been edited by quackpack: Dec 16 2012, 06:22 PM

Any swift owner still with stock rims thinking of upgrading,I am letting go my 15 inch rims

15' F1 Silver Original Enkei RPF 1
Offset 35, Width 7
4 holes PCD 100
Weight 4.47kg per rim
Tyre : Michelin PS3 195/55/15 , Thread >50%
Project MU Super Lock Nut 7 (16 piece + 1 adapter)
RM1600 + Stock rims + Stock tyre + Labour on buyer (nego)





PM me to nego

Why did you change the ignition cable?

For our swift, the Ignition cable will rarely have any problem unless you bent it roughly when removal.

Our ignition coil spoil is because of the spring within the tube gets rusted(after high usage) causing high resistance and high resistance will eventually claim the whole electronic box on top. That is why there are company that create gold spring to reduce resistance as well as making the spring last longer and keeping your ignition system safer.

Changing ignition cable alone to aftermarket rarely increase performance as the ignition coil itself has it's own limitation.

Btw, I am selling a pair of ignition coil much cheaper than what you bought

The most prominent issue is when stopping at traffic light(Step brake on 'D') your car will not be able to maintain rev and die off.

If your car just judder but didnt die off, it could just be the plastic tubing is loosen and electrical charges are escaping so your spark plug could maintain proper spark. Have seen one case where the owner just wrap the insertion point of the plastic tube to the ignition box with those black tape and viola the car doesnt judder anymore.

It is very very hard for the ignition cable to spoil as its just a piece of conductor that gets electrical charges from your ignition coil. Our car has 2 ignition coil and 2 ignition cable, where the the ignition coil will fire down straight through a spring and also fire to the ignition cable(without spring).

Those who are adventurous and armed with torque screw, just remove your airbox, unscrew the engine cover, remove the screw securing the ignition coil(box looking), remove the plastic tube and you can see your spring inside the tube, DO NOT do it if your mileage is already high like above 50k cuz your spring might not be in good condition and might break off when taken out. I have seen spring at 40k that was rusted so badly in the middle it looks like it will snap anytime.

This post has been edited by quackpack: Jan 29 2013, 09:36 PM

You use phone charger that plug into the ciggy socket? I know it will continue to drain your battery even when your car is turned off.

Contact Vanli

http://www.vanli.com.my/vanli/contact.php

or SenHui

http://www.senhuiauto.com/contact_us_link.html