I'm looking for a soldering set/station for changing switches mainly, so it's small work but also quite delicate. I'd like temperature control because I want to avoid spoiling the electronics. (On the other hand, I'm OK about losing some switches.)

Does anyone have any recommendation? Something that can be purchased in Malaysia (vs importing)?

Thanks, Kaiser.

I'm currently "playing" with ergo clears (the keyboard was modded by the previous owner, not me) - the first time I tried them, I liked them. But after 2 weeks or so, the initial excitement has died down somewhat. But I still prefer them to browns and blues. I suspect the problem is with the springs (too light) and/or the switches need lubing. I'm sure the original springs are too heavy. Wished I could try the 55g custom springs.

But all the above is for entertainment. My fingers are getting sissy, so I'm going the linear path for real typing. Vintage black switches are on their way- I will most likely keep the original springs on the thumb keys of the Kinesis (because my thumbs are strong from training on the Model F AT) and change the springs of the other keys out, i.e. ghetto red/black, for the rest. Hence the search for soldering equipment. I went to an electronics shop nearby this afternoon. They offered some Chinese brands and a Japanese brand - can't remember the names but the price was reasonable, i.e. it's going to be less than RM300 for most things you mentioned. By the way, I also stopped by at ACE at Queensbay in the evening, and they do sell isopropyl alcohol (the real stuff). I'll need it to deal with some dried hot glue that the previous owner used inside the keyboard I didn't look real carefully because my mission was to get some spray paint, but it looked like a 1L can and it cost around RM60. (I paid more attention to the can of MEK next to it, that's how I saw the isopropyl alcohol.)

This post has been edited by epiguru: Oct 3 2012, 03:25 AM

@mikelanding: Sorry to hear about your troubles. I will be surprised if the Kinesis does not help. But you will need some short-term help with the pain because it takes a while to get used to the Kinesis. I still haven't got used to mine though I've been playing with it for a few weeks. Training on the Kinesis and work cannot happen at the same time, so I put aside the Kinesis and opened it instead. Now it looks like this:



I'm going to change to linear switches to make things easier on my wrists.

This post has been edited by epiguru: Oct 4 2012, 12:20 AM

@mikelanding: Sounds like an excellent idea. You might take a shorter time than me if you train hard (I was slacking because of work). There is a training manual to guide you.

The aim of my Kinesis mod will be to make a variable weighted keyboard. After trying Kaiser's Wyse, I know I made the right decision purchasing the vintage blacks (which are on their way to Penang) - of all the Cherry switches that I have tried, vintage blacks are the best for me. Will need to change to a lighter spring though. My little fingers cannot handle 60-70g, and the Kinesis forces use of the little finger and all the other fingers, whereas I can get away with typing with my two middle fingers, the left ring finger and the right thumb when typing on this Model F (see how I developed RSI?).

You might like to consider changing the switches yourself. The keywells are not that difficult to change, if you are going the MX reds route. They cost only $90 (vs $290 for the entire board). The internals are otherwise exactly the same. And of course shipping will be less for you. I'm doing this thing myself only because Kinesis no longer offers support for the Model 100.

Correct. Like I said, I am doing the mod on mine because Kinesis doesn't support my model anymore. And since I have to do all the dirty work, I'm going all the way in customizing the switches to my liking. If you get those MX red keywells, 2 (left and right) will cost you US$90. In retrospect, the fact that I could not have those keywells might be a good thing in my situation. IF my mod fails for whatever reason, I will just buy an LF (I think) or try to install the switches on the other Kinesis... keeping my fingers crossed.

@mikelanding: I can get the LF version from either Fentek or Kinesis but since Fentek is cheaper, I will buy from them. I don't have a problem with US sellers that insist on credit cards linked to a US address... BUT , as I said, I won't need the LF version if I can do the mod on my current Kinesis(es).

Glad to see people recognizing the value of Kaiser's dye sublimated PBT keycaps.

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Added on October 6, 2012, 12:54 amYa, interesting consumer behaviour.

This post has been edited by epiguru: Oct 6 2012, 12:54 AM

You can always get someone to help you for a small fee... After all, that's what quite a number of people do, especially those who don't have the expertise or time. It's the safer option, IMHO.

I need help on this Cherry space bar and stabilizer.



From this DT wiki, I gather that the space bar above came from one of the following keyboards: G80-1000, G80-1800, G80-3000, G80-2100, G80-2510, or G80-2550.

My questions are:

1. How does that stabilizer fit the space bar? Is there a missing part? (I assure you I did not modify the stabilizer.)
2. What are those two white parts on the two side mounts for? Where are they supposed to attach to? Can they be pulled out?
3. Can this space bar be used on a Filco (whether as is or modified)? My understanding was that Filcos take a space bar that has "6.25 units (118mm wide, 3 mounts, 50mm apart)" (c.f. DT wiki on Cherry space bars). The length alone doesn't seem to fit, let alone the 3 mounts.

Many thanks for your expertise. I have next to zero knowledge about Cherry keyboards.

Guys, all I have right this moment is one extra set of Printed RGB keycaps from Unicomp. They are brand new, still in the plastic bag. For those who need clarification, these caps are for buckling springs only, not Cherry or Topre. I'm first offering this (at cost, no shipping charge) to someone who was kind enough to offer me some stuff I want for free... he should know who he is (PM coming in a few minutes, buddy).

I sold my last set of original Cherry keycaps a couple of days ago.

But I have the means to bring in anything you want. Price is usually an issue, so if you can get the stuff yourselves, that will be best. But if you want the rare and exotic, let me know what you want and your maximum price, and I'll see if I can bring it in for you. Most stuff I sell is not on my website... then again, I might be advertising some Model Ms soon.

Also, I have stuff coming in from the US almost every month. So you can "tumpang" on my shipments to Penang. For example, to ship one large keyboard might cost you $65 (USPS Priority Mail) - I can do it for $45 including shipping to anywhere in Peninsula Malaysia. A bunch of keycaps might cost anywhere between $15 - 20 (boxed, Priority Mail). I can do it for $8 or less. I cannot beat some places like SP but they send their stuff out in bubble mailers. I insist my stuff is boxed and tracked all the way. That's why it is better value for people to contact me for the more valuable stuff, not the lower value stuff. The way you win is that I bring my stuff into Malaysia in bulk, so shipping cost is reduced.

In addition, I practice quid pro quo . Which means that if you do me a favour, I will remember to return it. This idea came about when I met up with a bunch of local guys earlier this week. I think as a group, we got quite a lot of resources. We just need to see how we can help each other out.

This post has been edited by epiguru: Oct 7 2012, 01:53 PM

Signature Plastics Standard DS Sets - $60 each. Feel free to mix and match.

http://keycapsdirect.com/marketplace.php









Also, translucent colored keycaps:



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I was looking for some PBT caps for my Kinesis and came across these new offerings from SP. They are not for me, but I guess some people may find them useful. IMHO, the white-on-black set looks good.

Geekhack site is down ATM. Not sure what the problem is but I can't help thinking about the extended period it was offline a few months back.

Key chattering.

Options:

1. RMA if still under warranty.
2. Buy a new keyboard - consider Kaiser's KBTalking RACE 75% Mechanical Keyboard Green Backlit.
3. Change the switch. Involves desoldering and resoldering. If you are in Penang, you can bring your keyboard to my place to get it fixed.

This is a simple fix. If you ever drop by in Penang, give us a call. I'll change the switch for you for 1 kopi peng. (But you will be limited to a silky smooth, i.e. Krytox laced, MX Vintage Black, Ghetto Red, Gray, or Clear only.)

Without the 0 key, you can use your keyboard like a TKL. After a while, you may actually enjoy a more compact layout - definitely more ergonomic.

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Added on October 13, 2012, 5:33 pm@mikelanding: Packaging looks good.

I tried the HHKB Pro2 last week. I like it a lot but too bad I have wrist RSI.

This post has been edited by epiguru: Oct 13 2012, 05:33 PM

@joyformidable: QWERKeys also sells some novelty keycaps (their B series) in this type of design (for backlit keyboards). You might like to check them out:

http://www.qwerkeys.co.uk/collections/b-series

They are based in London, and I think their pricing is on the high end. They won't be able to compete with the Taobao sellers.

@kyrmian: I'll be happy to change your keyboard's switches, provided I have the time. I'm already juggling two medium-sized projects plus some small things on the side.

If people want me to do Cherry MX switch swapping, it's best they send me a PM with their requirements and timeline, etc.

http://blog.gaingame.com/2010/09/14/steels...eyboard-review/ (scroll 2/3 down the page)

Is this your keyboard? What makes it difficult to disassemble?

It depends on my schedule. If my work is like normal, it'll take about a week to change 104 keys. If I'm busy/traveling, it can take a month.