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 Proton Prevé V14, Turbocharged Car; Supercharged Thread

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sanadi
post Aug 4 2012, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(grivhuey @ Aug 4 2012, 03:37 PM)
please help me, is remotely lock or unlocking the car give a beep of once or twice. i jz gt my car for 2 daya, i rmb yesterday it beep. but today it no longer beep. any advise hw to re enable auch beeping? cz this morning i was exploring the car n i think i disable it accidentaly
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Mine never beeps. When it locks you get one long flash of turn signal. Unlock 3 flashes of turn signal. But never beeps.
sanadi
post Aug 9 2012, 11:21 AM

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QUOTE(damone @ Aug 9 2012, 11:07 AM)
Since performance mod for cfe is out of the question (for now ), ill focus on cooling mods for the engine.

Checked with obd scanner, intake temp is 60+ degrees celcius on a hot day. Thats hot.

Going to get lucas coolant and spray boron nitride on the intercooler.
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Install better intercooler?
sanadi
post Aug 9 2012, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(archiq @ Aug 9 2012, 11:24 AM)
if same generation, should be "Suria Perkasa Hitam" or "Suria Baja Hitam".. not Kamen Rider..  laugh.gif

btw, gud morning dhuang dhuang and all..  wub.gif
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TV2, 4.30PM if I am not mistaken. Remember "Tendangan Padu MAUT!!!"? biggrin.gif
sanadi
post Aug 9 2012, 12:56 PM

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D mode is for economy. Pedal to the floor but RPM is reluctant to rise.

Pro: Low RPM, wide throttle opening therefore less pumping loss but good fuel economy.
Cons: Pickup a bit slow, less responsive to sudden acceleration.

Mode S, pedal to the metal not many cars can even keep up.
Cons: S mode means "Suck Fuel but Syiok" hehe
sanadi
post Aug 9 2012, 01:13 PM

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QUOTE(BartS @ Aug 9 2012, 12:58 PM)
Funny you should mention that. Want to discuss about Preve's torque curve. After 4K rpm the torque should dip down but the other day when I was playing with paddle shift, when I reach 5K rpm, the car suddenly had tremendous amount of pull (torque). Very much more than when it was at 4K. Had to downshift quickly as the revs were climbing too fast. Has anyone else experienced the same?
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Although max torque starts to drop off above 4000RPM, but your power is still increasing until max at 5000RPM. Above 5000RPM power drops off but not much. That's why you can still accelerate.

From the torque curve here: http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm76/ha...FEtruestory.jpg

I was able to calculate the power at RPM and charted a graph of torque and power.

Formula used was: Power [kW] = Torque [Nm] x Speed [1/min] / 9549
source: http://www.rri.se/index.php?DN=28#080

Attached Image

This post has been edited by sanadi: Aug 9 2012, 01:19 PM
sanadi
post Aug 9 2012, 01:31 PM

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QUOTE(BartS @ Aug 9 2012, 01:23 PM)
Good graph.  thumbup.gif

The relationship between torque/bhp between 4-5K is still somewhat a grey area for me. I always equate 'pull' to torque. At 5K, the car was behaving very differently. From 2K-4K, there's power but it's not 'seat of the pants' sensation. At 5K, it feels just like that.
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Think of it this way (not really accurate but rough estimation):

Torque: NM/RPM (pulling power per RPM)
Power: Torque X RPM (work done by torque times how my RPM it is repeated)

at 5000 rpm you less torque than 4000 rpm. But you are doing more of that work 5000 times vs 4000 times. Therefore you get more work done.

Or at 2000rpm: Kerja kuat tapi jarang-jarang (2000 time working)

at 5000rpm: Kerja kurang sikit tapi selalu (5000 times working)


sanadi
post Aug 10 2012, 07:56 PM

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This is for CFE version (copy and paste from Page 1 of this thread)


3. Eco tint Specifications
4 Windows Spec:
Safety & Security Film : e-Pre-Eminent
Product code: RB-SC A6
Visible Light Transmission 58%
Visible Light Rejected 9%
Ultraviolet (UV) Rejected (UV A + UV B) 99.5%
Infrared (IR) Rejected 97%
Total Solar Energy/Heat Rejected 64%
Thickness 6 mil (150 micron)
Tensile Strength (PSI) 34000
Break Strength (Ib/In) 130(kg/cm)
Elongation Strength (%) >150
Peel Strength (g/in) >3000
Puncture Strength (Ib) 96
Melting Point (Celsius) 120’C
Warranty Period 10 years

sanadi
post Aug 10 2012, 10:20 PM

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QUOTE(mat79 @ Aug 10 2012, 10:06 PM)
hi guys, during leisure time, had opportunity reading many things on the net. Im not trolling nor try to do direct comparison. Just throwing some opinions.

Never been a doubt, myvi is one of the economical cars to run interm of fc, coz the car is designed to be a city car, not cruiser or tourer. But recent reading on otoreview did mentioned, myvi 1.5 auto, during town driving, approximately 80 city 20 hway, consume below 10km perlitre, n the worst is 8.8km perlitre. But on 70%hway n 30% city, it consume around 14km perlitre to 12 n even 11km perlitre,depend on speed n etc.
What has been in my mind is that never heard any complaining regarding the fc on the net. Is it because an isolated case or is it because highly acclaimed toyota@daihatsu sourced engine really gives impact on consumers?

Same when reading on forte@elantra@others, they accept it with with reason that diff segment, diff displacement n diff weight especially when somebody point out comparo it with vios or even city.

Im not saying forumers in here coz in this forum, everybody is matured enough on that matters, just previous survey on general public, they did do direct comparison on fc like saga vs myvi, persona vs vios, preve vs vios n etc without taking into account maybe due to weight differences, diff displacement, diff segment, diff type (salon@family sedan versus compact), na versus turbo charge n etc.

What urs opinion on that? Is it prtn cars really really teribble in fc meaning really big diff in margin?


Added on August 10, 2012, 10:11 pmfor front n rear windshield, i dont think security tint is needed coz its already used laminated glass. By adding security tint, make it really hard for rescue operations during accident. But the opt is yours by the way.


Added on August 10, 2012, 10:11 pmfor front n rear windshield, i dont think security tint is needed coz its already used laminated glass. By adding security tint, make it really hard for rescue operations during accident. But the opt is yours by the way.


Added on August 10, 2012, 10:12 pmfor front n rear windshield, i dont think security tint is needed coz its already used laminated glass. By adding security tint, make it really hard for rescue operations during accident. But the opt is yours by the way.
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I think most people think of fuel saving when they pump petrol. They just look at the total RM. Less RM, ohh this car so good FC. Big RM, my god so much I have to pump?

That's the reaction of my friend whom I sold my Accord to. I had to explain to him the reason he has to fuel up RM90+ is because the Accord has a 65L tank. And that RM90+ can last him 2 weeks+. When you do objective calculation of km/L it is not that bad. But he was a bit taken aback by the cost of fuel-up.

Psychology perhaps



This post has been edited by sanadi: Aug 10 2012, 10:21 PM
sanadi
post Aug 11 2012, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(guna96 @ Aug 11 2012, 08:57 PM)
It will up n down until the temp is at 2bar
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In other cars with torque converter AT, during cold starts the car will rev to ~1500RPM for quicker warm up. I found that our Preve does not really do this. It will rev to 1000RPM then drop to about 800RPM even when cold. Perhaps this is what's causing the heart beat effect? May be they do not rev because of the CVT.

What I do is after engine start, plug in my GPS destination, after it finishes calculating I just drive. Yes it gets abit jerky but not for very long. After temp reaches 3 bars (usually 1 minute after I start driving) the car behaves normally again.

For me I just call it the character of the Preve. I did not complain to SC as I can live with it.

This post has been edited by sanadi: Aug 11 2012, 09:16 PM
sanadi
post Aug 14 2012, 05:09 PM

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QUOTE(KeishaLee @ Aug 14 2012, 05:05 PM)
guys , can you guys post your Fuel Consumption ( CFE ) . I wanna compare the fuel consumption with myvi .
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http://www.fuelly.com/car/proton/preve/2012
sanadi
post Aug 15 2012, 12:22 PM

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QUOTE(fulat @ Aug 15 2012, 11:51 AM)
yes... RESTORAN NASI VANGGEY

i use to in your shoe much. and more choices than u like civic 2.0 inspira 2.0 too.. at the end.. i ended up with preve. anyway.. u still have plenty of time to think.. so dont rush
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I actually considered Accord 2.0 and Sonata 2.0 before settling for Preve. Yes I can afford it but chose Preve instead. The extra money I used to buy some property. Property is much better long-term investment.
sanadi
post Aug 22 2012, 09:29 PM

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QUOTE(tombyron @ Aug 22 2012, 09:23 PM)
WTA..what other brand is good for our preve beside petronas?
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The most important:
1. Lubricants from reputable brands
2. Make sure they are not fakes
3. Viscosity what Proton recommends, 10W30. Remember, Proton recommends 10W30, not require 10W30.
sanadi
post Sep 2 2012, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(SweeJ @ Sep 2 2012, 09:05 AM)
i too am pretty disappointed with my 1000km service. next time, i would send it back to an 3S SC as opposed to my SA sending my car to a 3rd party authorised Proton one.

they didn't do a re-tune when i request them to do so; the mechanic only gave the excuse the car only picks up at 3k rpm..... right.....

also, i have a question for every one, for the 1000km service, what motor oil did they use? the mechanic told me, my CFE car needs to use 5W 40 Shell Fully Synthetic motor. i didn't argue with him, but when i looked in my user guide, i didn't specify using such an expensive motor oil.....
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Proton recommends 10W30 SL rated oil, i.e. a good mineral oil. You can use better, but if you don't, there won't be a problem. Just do not use 20W50 SG rated oils.

Personally I am using 0W30 SM, A5 rated oil (Fully Synthetic).

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