Sure no problem in installing magnetrap, if you got the dough, you can even buy RM500 stickers and stick all over the engine cover also no issue...you get the idea? What we meant is you're spending your money for nothing, no extra benefit whatsoever. Value for nothing in fact.

Notice the explanation MENTIONING FILTER BYPASS. When will that happen? It happens when you actually clog up your filter bad by not changing engine lube and filter on time. If you service your vehicle on time at 5K interval or possible 10K (I don't recommend it but everyone does it especially with FS, your choice), filter bypass will never come to be. If it happens, you're shit anyway coz sludge buildup might occur already.

During the 1K to 5K, most metal shards and shaving will occur due to piston, bore wall, etc being new. As engine was used, the piston movement, etc will get itself "molded to the borewall, itself. Metal shards and shaving will occur. Thus its best to change lube at 1K and then another time at 5K to wash away these major shavings and particles. After the 2nd change, there will still be minor metal particles and shavings at most time, but very common actually. Oil filters are capable of filtering these out. Those that somehow past thru can be suspended in your lube until the next change. If you overused your lube where its addictives are worn, thats where the damage will be added, the particles no longer suspended will add into the sludge buildup that might clog up your engine pathways or scratch against your engine parts, ie borewall, piston.

So if you change your lube AND oil filter on schedule, why is magnetrap needed?.....theoritically it works but practically it's actually irrelevant unless you overused your lube period. After 5K to 10K service interval, the metal shaving forms a very minor part of the contaminant. Even if clogging happens to filter then, these minor miniscule shavings if any, will be the least concern of your engine damage.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 6 2012, 12:16 PM

Driving comfort, engine tech, etc is a class above Preve for those higher end cars. Camry for eg is actually quite good in stock sound proofing already. However it really depends on ppl. For those audio kaki, its just not good enuf, same for those used to conti excellent soundproofing. Even higher end luxury cars still was send for soundproofing depending on owners "tolerant" on noise and audio players.

QC is much better done in T and H as I think a lot of proton kaki would have admitted is still the MAIN WEAKNESS of Proton. Get that done right, Preve is truly approaching a global standard albeit with cost cutting (remember I mentioned the fender intruding into boot space greatly...found out, not really too much of design problem, more like cost cutting coz it turns out the current squarish fenders intruding into the boot space is CHEAPER than the standard ones used in most cars).

Campro by itself is a high rev engine with weaker low end torque. Note that the add on turbo does has its own set of problems while those engine used in T and H are strong by itself and requires little maintenance actually...besides lasting a long time. There is STILL a difference in quality there....Preve still has some way to catch up....for me, mostly in QC and crony elimination....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 10 2012, 01:35 PM

From my mudguard specialist advice, if your bumper is bend in anyway, you have to pull it back to original shape as soon as possible coz once it's left for sometime, it will harden to that position, forever deformed.

Technically yes, they have the right to void warranty but in reality no, especially if you're using BRANDED, ORIGINAL (non-fake) engine oil. Branded engine oil rarely if ever will cause any engine failure unless you're using those supercar that REQUIRE fully syn and you masuk mineral oil.....but those supercars will definitely not be service in Proton...

Lots of SC don't allow outside engine oil but CoSE (the HQ) and a few SC (Bukit Tinggi, Klang) does. Note that some SC using Shell officially, some Petronas, so actually if SC allow bring oil, any branded and known lube (make sure its not fake) won't be a problem.

Imagine if let say using if Proton actually blame an engine issue and void warranty because you used Castrol Magnatec lube with the right viscosity rating, I doubt Castrol is going to sit quiet and take the blame for ITS LUBE causing an engine failure...

I'm still wondering why some ppl are still using a snake oil (yes, thats what we call engine treatment addictives and others).

Sourced this from a post in yahoo from a mechanic. A lot of known car bibles and lube experts mentioned abt the same thing but this post just put simple and easy to understand.

"No oil treatment is needed or recommended for use in an engine. The present day engine oils are formulated with various modifiers to provide proper lubrication, viscosity and cleaning to your engines internal parts. Using ANY additive could upset the formulations by adding chemicals which aren't compatible with the oil you are using. It's much better to just select a good oil and stick with it."

Conclusion : Just god-damn service your car on time, change lube and filter on time, used a good well known lube with right viscosity for your ride, you'll have one of the cleanest and well protected engine that can last a while.

I've personally serviced on time for my rides at every 5K, using mineral for 80K, then switch to FS to reduce vibration and smoother acceleration...open up engine at 85K, engine super clean, piston and bore wall almost like new....did not use any engine treatment and engine still performed like new...almost.

Actually very hard, even mechanics themselves got problem identifying them. Only upon usage after a few K when DAMAGE to engine has occur, only some will know.

So the best way to ensure originality of lube is to buy from established and known source, ie, petrol station (Caltex = Havoline, Esso = Mobil, Shell = Helix, etc). Mostly the most popular lube out there, ie, Castrol, Shell, Bardahl, has A LOT OF FAKES. Some used back original bottle so cannot even identify from bottle. Some use mineral oil in FS bottle, so engine still will run fine but your paying FS price for mineral lube.

If change at 5K, rarely damage if mineral but lots of guys change FS at 10K, habis engine is keep using that fake unknowingly. The most damage of fake comes from recycled lube, a lube that was filtered and have the clean look of a new oil BUT WITH NO ADDICTIVES LEFT (all used up), massive damage in engine when used.

Keep in mind when you found a well known lube selling cheaper or cheaply outside (especially in parts shops, lots of fake, even parts staff also cannot differentiate). Therefore make sure to buy from known and well established source.

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Added on August 15, 2012, 11:03 amHaha given a choice I would too choose Forte 2.0 over Preve 1.6 even with its high mid-end torque.Its a 2.0 car thus no underpower issue vs Forte 1.6 although the 6 speed gear helps a bit.

Overall the car build quality of Forte is still better than Preve and its a stock 2.0 rather than 1.6 enhanced with turbo. Preve campro engine will definitely be more noisy, its known for that, CVT or not. Cabin noise, ie rattling will appear within a year or so for Forte in general but Proton...even the new so-called global car standard....rattling has become an inherent properties for most Protons.....mostly from the moment we get the car. Thats why I've commented before Preve still have WAY to go on build and qc issues....although its packed with value for money features and of course its undeniable excellent handling quality.

Note : I have to say, if a choice from Forte 1.6 vs CFE, I might still take CFE coz its cheaper, loaded with features and equally underpowered for both rides but CFE had advantage of high mid-end torque. Although currently CFE will still be out of consideration UNTIL it near mid-life with most of its issued identified and solved by Proton themselves.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 15 2012, 11:08 AM

If I'm not wrong, 15W40 is a mineral lube if its syntium or shell. If I'm not wrong CoSE using semi for all newer vehicle liao...not sure abt other service center.

Also 40 weighted lube is suitable if you FREQUENTLY runs at high speed on highway where engine are in constant higher temperature. Engine will heavier, pickup will suffer a bit that also translate to FC going up a bit.

Weight 30 has a balance of performance and fc saving and suitable for city drive and normal highway drive (not speeding CONSTANT and PROLONGED HIGH SPEED DRIVE).

Contrary to some belief that getting caught in jam will raise engine temperature, idle engine DOES NOT raise temperature, as a matter of fact, idle engine WILL NOT REACH PEAK TEMPERATURE that engine requires to perform efficiently thus the reason why those cars that get caught in jam frequently, while not having high mileage tends to need service sooner as its plugs and engine components will be dirtier faster due to excessive fuel residue that comes from incomplete fuel combustion.

This sorhigh ALMOST ALWAYS HAVE TO walk back to car to disarm and re-armed the alarm to see if I remember to lock, up to state that my family take it as a routine to remember on my behalf everytime I go out with them...coz I always have to ask them if I remember to lock the car or not...

Also the fact that my City has a double signal buzzer to indicate lock while PE is a single signal buzzer for locking that I always confused which one is lock buzzer for which car EVEN after a year of owning PE. Oh wait.......maybe its PE with double buzzer for locking while City single buzzer.....shit....I'm lost again...

Actually 5W30 will NOT be thicker than 10W30 in early morning. Reason is even at 10W winter rating, our country temperature never falls below 10 degree. 5W goes far beyong sub zero temperature. So at our early morning temperature, both 10W or 5W rate lube flows at the same thickness.

Also, in actual real life usage, mineral and semi syn has the same lasting affect on addictives. Both lasted at 5K mileage. Semi syn addictives WILL NOT last any longer than mineral's addictives. Some drag the service longer to JUSTIFY the higher price for semi but unfortunately it does not works that way. The small amt of synthetic based blended in will increase the quality of lubrication BUT addictives lasted the same.

In general, Fully Syn addictives lasted no longer than mineral and semi. The larger amt of synthetic based plus the highly refined hydrocracked mineral based used in FS has increased the natural viscosity that will increase natural viscosity index and higly refined lubricating effect. It can holds engine contaminant better. HOWEVER it is widely known the addictives actually lasted the same wearing period, maybe slightly longer due to the higher quality lube based that put lesser strain on the addictives wearing time. That is why I usually recommend a 5K change even for FS or at most drag till 7K mileage to maintain OPTIMUM long lasting and clean engine performance.

Again SC might succumb to cost justification for usage of FS. Anyway most damage of engine that will decrease performance or wear out components much fast will come later in the car life, way past their engine warranty period. Not much problem for those that intend to sell car after a few years drive but pity the ones that NEED to use the cars for a very long time......such as like myself...

ps. Most ppl can use FS till 10K service. Note that it is the EOL of the engine lube meaning addictives will be worn out by then. Maybe not much damage but the theory is CHANGING the lube before addictives is near worn out so as to MINIMIZE the long term wear out and damage rate. At 70% worn out addictives does not protect engine well anymore. So changing at 5K means changing lube while addicitives still have high level protection level, the moment protection reduce greatly after that, lets hope you won't use your car for long time....else be prepare to pay big time later in its car life.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 3 2012, 10:54 AM

Reading up BITOG (bobistheoilguy) is a good start. Asked me to cite exact references, unfortunately I read up a lot but pickup from various sources, so I try to remember where I got it from (several source), I honestly can't remember it now. I know Bob has one article or writeup inside there on this but good luck finding it coz I've read it quite sometime ago.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

Actually there are 2 school of thought on this issue, one is extending over 10K mileage, other 5-8K mileage. Most of forums has somewhat agree on 7500 miles for FS.

However when reading up various posts, forums and articles, do note one thing that was often missed out by most readers. As usual, most sites recommended modern engine extended mileage of 10K or even above but it ALWAYS comes with a cavaet.

That is Malaysian driving environment 99% listed as SEVERE categories due to weather, dust, driving conditions, etc. Lots of mileage extension given and recommended are based on NORMAL driving that SEVERE category does not apply. Our very dusty environment combined with high temperature and humidity ensure the shorterning of lube's effectiveness. As a rule of thumb, shorten the "NORMAL" service interval or mileage require by 30% ~ 50% depending on your interpretation and combination of driving conditions.

This link says simplify what I meant is on 5-7K change vs 10K change...at least on the severe category issue.

http://www.cars2go.co.nz/SITE_Default/Arti...geFrequency.asp

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/fu...etic-motor-oil/

Also do note I've always mentioned in the past, the higher end vehicles models with very modern engine and tech category usually can go at least 10K service on FS especially those with OIL LIFE MONITORING SYSTEM due to their bigger lube tanks, better filteration, more advance engine technology, etc. Those using specifically formulated (written) HIGH MILEAGE FS..will too. So its not a fixed conclusion and arguments still raging all over the net on this issue.

Also note there's a lot of confusion out there on FS...when they mentioned FS, are they talking about true FS made from POA or Ester such as the one Amsoil carries or what Mobil 1 Gold USED to be made of OR are they talking about the Synthetic Blend using highly refined hydrocracked mineral oil that makes up most of our Fully Synthetic brands available here....I'm still unsure myself.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 3 2012, 02:57 PM

Been reading up a bit on the latest engine oil updates around the world.

Mmmmm...it seems my info is a bit dated liao...for the last couple of years, it seems the newest engine and the latest rated FS lube can go further mileage.

I guess I will be revising and extending FS mileage from 5-7K to 7-10K instead.

However I'm still have doubt on Campro tech....is it the latest tech with the most efficient running, etc. I most probably will do it to the latest Hondas, Toyotas, VW, etc but campro efficiency, I'll stick with 7-8K for FS change if I ever use FS for my PE.

Also we know FS might last but what the the stock fuel filter. Its meant for 5K, can it stand for 10K. Once clogged which is very likely due to our darn dusty, very hot and humid environment, bypass will be activated meaning no filteration for engine oil....can the FS hold the massive contaminant after that....

Just being in our country with high temp, humidity and dusty environment will push most of our cars into severe category already without considering driving style, road condition and distance.

If you sell off previous ride and used the money for downpayment, 50K or more is not out of the question...

Even a 6 year old City VTEC still worth 40+K, whats more with a 4 years old car H & T cars...usually abt 50 to 60K+. But frankly it does not makes much sense to sell H&T cars to get Preve as they are usually quite reliable and not too far behind Preve.

For me, you can sell a PE at 40K, top up another 10K for downpayment, walah...a 50K downpayment.

From what I see, one of the best car to buy earlier is Civic if you're talking abt resell value. A 108K Civic (after disc) after 3 years can still get near 90K value. Try that with any other vehicles...even City or Dugong will drop over 20-30K for the same period.