Now do you understand why some of us are crazy abt engine oil brands, viscosity, lube type (FS, mineral, etc). Lube lubricate the piston and other major parts of engine...the heart of it. Thus using different lube on different engine usually provoke DIFFERENT response, some good, some bad. Best and most expensive lube does not necessary means the best for certain engine.

CFE uses weight 30 for balance performance and fc. Run A LOT of HIGHWAY at highspeed, weight 40 might be more suitable. Always jalan in city, 30 is the best balance lube for now. FS USUALLY has less vibration on engine being smoother and of hydrocracked refined mineral oil but it might not give better performance than lets say mineral. It do has less contaminant in its lube (refined mah), thus lubricate better and stays a wee bit longer than mineral. Mineral and semi for me is almost the same.

Actually when jam, weight 30 lube would have better pickup and fc balance. THAT is why in CITY, recommend 30 coz jam lar....even on highway 30 still very good. Its those that run at high speed FREQUENTLY on high that weight 40 is recommended.

When you say save a penny loose a pound, I'm lost. Weight 40 does NOT means it have more protection than 30. Its just that it can withstand higher heat temperature and suitable for CONSTANT higher speed drive when engine have prolonged high temperature usage. When idle, it will not be as hot as the overwork high speed ride. Weight 30 and 40 protect the same at normal temp as the viscosity will thin the same at that temp. Its the high end temp that makes the difference with 40 being able to withstand being overly thin at very much temp. Daily non constant high speed driver would rarely reach such temp if ever.

When we say save FC, it comes mostly from increased pickup power. THAT is what most everyone wants, better acceleration = better FC unless you start revving kau kau, then whatever weight also no save fc.

I'm not sure tho how hot CFE will be compare to normal CPS. Since the manual listed 30, then you can be sure 30 IS recommended for balance drive of FC and pickup power. That especially is for city traffic = slower drive = jams.

One thing that I HATE for Preve is its boot design. With 2 tyre fenders intruding badly into the supposedly spacious boot. That leaves a small area of car WIDE boot space in front and narrow but deep boot space behind.

The space is not sufficient for me to lay my daughter's portable keyboard (organ) flat in the boot. This is the first sedan car what supposedly large boot space that the keyboard cannot lay flat. Nor coud it lay any large luggage bag flat, it has to go either sideway and push deep inside or leave it standing in front space.

That defeat the purpose of a default big boot. If I'm to carry install a child safety seat behind, can't really open the back seat. Even my PE also I never need to use flip car seat to carry stuff and my ex-wira can fit that in flat as well. Just disappointment there, no big deal.

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Added on July 18, 2012, 11:26 amActually most sedan car can, even my ex-ex-iswara can although the opening of iswara is too high and a bit small.

Its the width which Preve has but the wide space does not go deep enuf when the 2 high tyre fender jutted out and block it. Thats the complain. Boot space has no issue at all, if all put sideway can put in a lot but this is the first mid-size sedan where most bigger stuff has to go sideway to store in the boot.

If the 2 fender did not intrude and practically cut the big boot space in half, it would have been perfect but I guess something has to gives. And most ladies don't bother much abt boot space, its the guys that have to take the kids to keyboard class, drive ppl around with some luggage, carry a few heavy bigger size computers, mini servers (ya, cannot lay straight flat like other car, have to lie it flat than turn it sideway and then push it deeper in the middle).

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 18 2012, 11:32 AM

Haha, I did not own a Preve yet, tho are seriously look at it on its mid life fl (to solve most issue). Yes, it might be the wrong word to use, dislike would be better.

I have to drive my daughter keyboard weekly for years to her class, so its an issue for me. Just voicing out my concern that the supposedly spacious boot space has a weird handicap that has never been an issue for any other sedan that I look at or owned.

Get a daughter, HELPS a lot in cold war when she become a negotiator and try to defuse the tension. Mine always do by negotiating with my wife.....then come tell me, "papa, wait see mommy just say 1 word, "sorry", mommy will forgive you, I already talk to her and she already agree"....ha, she's also my marriage saverr...

Sometimes, go out and relax makes things worse when SHE is not going out and fumed that YOU can still go enjoy outside. So conclusion, make up and get a daugther...

Remember what happen last time when wira design suddenly come out with a station wagon.....

Err...but most modern car should diagnose itself regardless of the delay in starting...

Only thing I can think of to delay or prolong starting process is to allow immobilizer to deactived themselves....it does happens sometimes to other car makes...

Why would anyone want to goes back to GT Radial tyres...its a budget tyre range and would never make my list of tyres to get for any of my car.

As to what tyre to get, it depends on your primary requirement ie. your priority ie, price range, dry performance, wet performance, nvh, green thingy....

Rarely a good wet performance has low noise and those having very quiet tyres rarely have good wet performance. So list your priority then only look for the tyres that fit that requirement.

Fully is more expensive than semi by a lot....

Since you guys has the manual, can you confirm the what is the lowest indicated weight for engine listed in the manual. Does the manual recommend / list any particular lube weight as the default preference of CFE?

Have you seen a CVT belt? Its like a caterpillar with leg like metal jutting at each side. When it move, there's clip at each side that grap and hook the metal "leg" and pull. When its moving, it will clip clip clip the caterpillar legs pulling it forward. THAT is the gear change. Instead of convention gear pulling at ie. ratio 1.0 and drag till it hit 2.0 to change to next gear, the caterpillar clipping will hit 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 all the way up thus virtually comes with hundreds of ratio change.

Thus when we slow down, for auto it will just jump downward from 2.0 to 1.0 and forcefully drag the car speed downward fast. For CVT, it will clip clip clip downward 1.3, 1.2, 1.1 thus slowly pulling shifting the gear downwards thus MAINTAINING optimum momentum at each mini ratio changes unlike the auto gear full force pull downward. Thus the slower slowdown rate of most CVT ride. Switch to virtual 7 speed mode, it will act like auto and forcefully pull upward and downward and skip the entire range of gear ratio.

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Added on July 24, 2012, 3:54 pmGoodyear Sym 2 only applicable if you upgrade to 16" and above. Also those budget tyres might have V speed ratings but hows the tyre grip, etc. Practically all tyres profile always mentioned excellent stability and cornering but true world testing always prove otherwise...budget or no...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 24 2012, 03:54 PM

From what I know, it USED to be AA rating. They've since downgraded it to A. It has adequate grip on the road but once thread at 70% will get very noisy. Its wet performance is only adequate, nothing to shout abt. Tend to makan tyre shoulder. Personally I would used Hankook V12 over this tyre anytime. Of course if price is of concern, it should be one the the cheapest mid-range tyres around nowadays. Better than those GT Radial thingy anytime. V12 used to be almost same price but pull away upward....probably due to its much better performance vs 912 at all aspect.

Not the best around but very good tyres generally. PS3 is quite balanced in comfort due to its now softer sidewall but still gives excellent dry and wet traction. I prefer this tyre myself BUT its very expensive, overprice for its performance range. Unless you're loaded or have "kang tao" to get it cheaper, lots of normal ppl goes for other tyre brands that offers almost equivalent quality at a much lower price.

Actually no really, not all size that can fit the rim is ok. Your new tyre size should never exceed 3% difference in height and width from the stock tyre. You can use this below to calculate

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

"When changing tire sizes, we recommend staying within 3% of the diameter/height of the original tire. Any more than this and you face the risk of brake failure."

Directly copied from the site above. It is not the only site that mention that. Thus most tyre sifus always keep this crucial guideline in view when changing tyres.

Just type your stock/original tyres size in, then type in your new prefered size. It will list the difference. As long as it does not exceed 3%, its a go, depending if you want more traction less comfort, more comfort less traction, etc.

Why do you keep harping on ambient temperature..if ambient temperature should not exceed 20 deg C, I guess weight 40 should not be use in any hot and temperate countries liao...but weight 40 and 50 are PRECISELY what is needed in hot countries...in even hotter countries like the Saudi, weight 40 and 50 are the norm due to higher ambient temperature there.

Weight 40 can be use in Preve although for balanced performance and FC, weight 30 will be the recommended lube. Weight 40 is useful the car is constantly driven at high speed in highway most of the time where the engine temperature constantly remains at the high end. Otherwise, for better pickup and city driving along with better FC, weight 30 is recommended.

Just opti is too technical reading into lots of stats without understanding the real world application of lube. I'm no master of lubes but I do spoke with sifus who's in the industries, thats why I'm keen on the subject. Don't really bother with too technical stuff coz it does not apply to our real world usage....only to the extreme or racers that these stats matters.

There is a little bit of truth to what opti mention. 5W40 and 10W40 do have their difference. If you have a choice, using 10W40 is always better than using 5W40 in our hot weather. However this is presuming both are the same grade of lube, ie...both mineral or both semi syn. If 10W40 is mineral and 5W40 is fully, I'll take the fully anytime coz fully does has inherent advantage that negate the differences.

What difference?....To achieve lower temp ie 5W, more viscosity improvers are used. Addictives are prone to worn out, used up, etc. So the longer you use the lube, the more viscosity improvers will wear out. Thus if you used to the max for both 10W and 5W, with all VI burned out, 10W40 will retain better natural fluidity vs 5W40. So when hitting high temp, the natural viscosity of 10W40 will be thicker than those of 5W40 . 5W40 will be much thinner by then due to loss of VI than allows it to change its viscosity and fluidity thus has lesser protection for bore wall, piston, etc. This is one of the aspect that makes the difference of 5W40 and 10W40. Note that naturally, 10W40 will be slightly thicker 5W40. However by operating temperature, they will hit the same viscosity due to VI addictives working here. Oh...just to mentioned by the time VI improves burn out in 5W and 10W, DAMAGES will have occured regardless of 5W or 10W even if 10W is slightly thicker....so its actually a mute point...

So Opti is correct if he says 10W40 is BETTER than 5W40 in our weather assuming both are mineral or semi. However Fully Synthetic be it true fully (without even needing VI improver) and highly refined mineral actually has a better base viscosity index WITHOUT adding it the addictives yet. So a 10W40 mineral IS NOT BETTER than a 5W40 fully syn for that matter. So when both addictives burned out, the fs base viscosity could still be equal or might even better than the 10W40 base viscosity.

What I'm peeved is he hinted or indicated 5W40 should not be used by just reading the ambient temperature without understanding the vi working...or that he read blindly and trusted 100% proton manual without understanding the stats he read and suggested to someone not to use it...

Oh...I'm a 5-6K service interval guy...after reading the long post above, you'll notice all negative effect arose WHEN ADDICTIVES start wearing out. So change the lube BEFORE it worn out thus I will never use a FS until 10K coz by then addictives will be greatly worn. Engine can still run but miniscule damage "might" have occur. It will accumulate till later in engine life, you'll spend a fortune fixing it. Why some cars can last 10K even 20K service interval....

1. Weather.....in our combination of humid, hot and very dusty weather...you can be sure you're engine oil is way dirtier than those in colder countries....lube DO OXIDISED faster in hot weather. Not to mentioned the contaminants.
2. Engine technology....better car makes has better engine filteration, working than ours...makes a difference in how long our lube can still lubricate.. So yes, a BMW engine filteration, working will ensure a cleaner and more efficient engine operation, it will AFFECT the lube usage too...don't you think.
3. Lube tank size...the bigger the tank, the more lube is filled in, the longer it will last...yes.....SIZE DO MATTERS.
4. Lube Quality Usage....some lube are specifically designed to be HIGH MILEAGE....yes this can last twice or triple as long. Also some car makes TESTED SPECIFIC FS with their vehicle thus can safely recommend those FS that can last twice as long in their vehicle.

Do note there are case in US where a luxury car maker extend their service interval mileage to cater for user demand...turns out few years later, they have to reverse their decision coz those cars that follows their interval....comes back with sludge. So you car can still runs nicely but unlike those in other countries that change car every 3-5 years, ours lasted twice or triple longers due to our high car prices....so change earlier or later, your choice, your later consequences...

Oh btw...I don't really believe in semi, really...these 2 lubes mineral and semi are practically the same for me (with ABSOLUTE 5K service interval) thus I always compare mineral with FS, not semi. AND mineral lube has no 5W, I believe, just semi and fs with their added vi improvers. FS I believe can last longer but with only hydrocracked refined mineral vs true syn....still a mineral albeit very high quality ones thus I can push it slightly longer, 7K maxed....tho I still follow 5K service interval for FS. Better safe than sorry.

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Added on July 27, 2012, 6:29 pmMy honda chart indicated the same for those oil temp in the manual, I believe opti will say PROTON engineer IS BETTER THAN HONDA for that matter...

Note : I may be wrong in my explanation, since I'm no guru and may understand wrongly...I admit it. I WILL learn new stuff as it comes, even correction to some understanding that I have long believe so that turns out to be wrong..ya..it happend before.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 27 2012, 07:09 PM

I'm a daily user of Smart Tag. Went thru 3 generation of tags. Don't let the other scares you on the battery life. If it drained battery within couple of months or less, garantee the smart tag or the battery spoil liao. Change batt, if still same, tag spoiled. One of reason for battery kaput very dast is those leaving on windscreen stand, etc under hot sun, sure battery drain MUCH faster.

A single 9V battery will last abt 12 months for me. I use it every working day, 4 ~ 5 tolls daily. Which silly bugger goes to unplug batt and plug everytime to use, crazy.

I don't put tag or any sign of tag on the windscreen, takut pecah cermin, it happens to lots of ppl.

Everytime I hold tag when near toll. If feel silly, put the tag on you dashboard although it might slip or scratch them.....holding will be safer in any case. You won't feel silly coz LOTS of smart tags veteran actually hold their tag and slip it back under their compartment upon usage. Also by holding and keeping it back to compartment, it won't be exposed to direct sunlight heat, battery will last way longer.