Don't worry, you can use 5W40

okay guys and girls. Chill yo! no need to argue for all these. calm down !

ITS FRIDAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
( although i still neeed to work tomorrow. damn! )


good ending to friday : PAID MY BOOKING fees and lets hope my white knight will be here before Raya!
time to shop for make ups!

Yes, it is indeed a mystery as to why Proton oil chart said 10W40 is OK but not 5W40. Nobody seems to have an answer except for the Einsteins in this forum who seems to know everything and yet never heard of oil chart. Go figure....

Is this your response to me correcting you?

Here's your oil chart



Oh wait it is different from the oil chart in the manual, which one is right eh?

FYI, Proton has changed their oil viscosity requirements in the user manual before for their Campro engine. So all I can say is the Lotus engineers sure can't make up their mind!


ANYWAY. After all is said and done, better listen to Proton if you value your warranty.

This post has been edited by dares: Jul 27 2012, 05:48 PM

Just opti is too technical reading into lots of stats without understanding the real world application of lube. I'm no master of lubes but I do spoke with sifus who's in the industries, thats why I'm keen on the subject. Don't really bother with too technical stuff coz it does not apply to our real world usage....only to the extreme or racers that these stats matters.

There is a little bit of truth to what opti mention. 5W40 and 10W40 do have their difference. If you have a choice, using 10W40 is always better than using 5W40 in our hot weather. However this is presuming both are the same grade of lube, ie...both mineral or both semi syn. If 10W40 is mineral and 5W40 is fully, I'll take the fully anytime coz fully does has inherent advantage that negate the differences.

What difference?....To achieve lower temp ie 5W, more viscosity improvers are used. Addictives are prone to worn out, used up, etc. So the longer you use the lube, the more viscosity improvers will wear out. Thus if you used to the max for both 10W and 5W, with all VI burned out, 10W40 will retain better natural fluidity vs 5W40. So when hitting high temp, the natural viscosity of 10W40 will be thicker than those of 5W40 . 5W40 will be much thinner by then due to loss of VI than allows it to change its viscosity and fluidity thus has lesser protection for bore wall, piston, etc. This is one of the aspect that makes the difference of 5W40 and 10W40. Note that naturally, 10W40 will be slightly thicker 5W40. However by operating temperature, they will hit the same viscosity due to VI addictives working here. Oh...just to mentioned by the time VI improves burn out in 5W and 10W, DAMAGES will have occured regardless of 5W or 10W even if 10W is slightly thicker....so its actually a mute point...

So Opti is correct if he says 10W40 is BETTER than 5W40 in our weather assuming both are mineral or semi. However Fully Synthetic be it true fully (without even needing VI improver) and highly refined mineral actually has a better base viscosity index WITHOUT adding it the addictives yet. So a 10W40 mineral IS NOT BETTER than a 5W40 fully syn for that matter. So when both addictives burned out, the fs base viscosity could still be equal or might even better than the 10W40 base viscosity.

What I'm peeved is he hinted or indicated 5W40 should not be used by just reading the ambient temperature without understanding the vi working...or that he read blindly and trusted 100% proton manual without understanding the stats he read and suggested to someone not to use it...

Oh...I'm a 5-6K service interval guy...after reading the long post above, you'll notice all negative effect arose WHEN ADDICTIVES start wearing out. So change the lube BEFORE it worn out thus I will never use a FS until 10K coz by then addictives will be greatly worn. Engine can still run but miniscule damage "might" have occur. It will accumulate till later in engine life, you'll spend a fortune fixing it. Why some cars can last 10K even 20K service interval....

1. Weather.....in our combination of humid, hot and very dusty weather...you can be sure you're engine oil is way dirtier than those in colder countries....lube DO OXIDISED faster in hot weather. Not to mentioned the contaminants.
2. Engine technology....better car makes has better engine filteration, working than ours...makes a difference in how long our lube can still lubricate.. So yes, a BMW engine filteration, working will ensure a cleaner and more efficient engine operation, it will AFFECT the lube usage too...don't you think.
3. Lube tank size...the bigger the tank, the more lube is filled in, the longer it will last...yes.....SIZE DO MATTERS.
4. Lube Quality Usage....some lube are specifically designed to be HIGH MILEAGE....yes this can last twice or triple as long. Also some car makes TESTED SPECIFIC FS with their vehicle thus can safely recommend those FS that can last twice as long in their vehicle.

Do note there are case in US where a luxury car maker extend their service interval mileage to cater for user demand...turns out few years later, they have to reverse their decision coz those cars that follows their interval....comes back with sludge. So you car can still runs nicely but unlike those in other countries that change car every 3-5 years, ours lasted twice or triple longers due to our high car prices....so change earlier or later, your choice, your later consequences...

Oh btw...I don't really believe in semi, really...these 2 lubes mineral and semi are practically the same for me (with ABSOLUTE 5K service interval) thus I always compare mineral with FS, not semi. AND mineral lube has no 5W, I believe, just semi and fs with their added vi improvers. FS I believe can last longer but with only hydrocracked refined mineral vs true syn....still a mineral albeit very high quality ones thus I can push it slightly longer, 7K maxed....tho I still follow 5K service interval for FS. Better safe than sorry.

---

Added on July 27, 2012, 6:29 pmMy honda chart indicated the same for those oil temp in the manual, I believe opti will say PROTON engineer IS BETTER THAN HONDA for that matter...

Note : I may be wrong in my explanation, since I'm no guru and may understand wrongly...I admit it. I WILL learn new stuff as it comes, even correction to some understanding that I have long believe so that turns out to be wrong..ya..it happend before.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jul 27 2012, 07:09 PM

Anyone heard of SUMO brand coolant, the can packing looks good but not sure about the quality.Think of changing but undecided, any commend guys

Nah. After throwing up all that fuss about Lotus engineers knowing better than us, it turns out he actually don't really think quite highly of them.

sigh, why the big fuss over engine oil... mine today 10W40...and i ask for magnatrap, no washer fluid, change oil plug n oil filter. charged 191.55.

Edit: oh and i ask the service adviser to check my ecu/tcu coz due to high fc, and maybe the setting was far off.

then drive to kepong, damm, no alignment, drive to MD, got it done.
i wasted few hours of driving coz i got lost again. damn old gps map.

while on the way to kepong, suddenly while doing u turn, heard loud explosion, i tot my tires exploded, damn, i stop by roadside to check, nothing seem to be exploded, then again, maybe it was the cement lorry tires exploded, it was in front of me, and it was turning right, while i u turn.

i was so shocked when heard that loud bang. damn, i tot why bad luck wor, already lost my way now tires exploded... sigh, anyway, today really bad day for me, luckily my senior manager still understanding...otherwise sure will get a good scolding from him.

This post has been edited by stargate8: Jul 27 2012, 07:44 PM

Wah.... so meriah.

Just like the CFE oil chart, this oil chart is a mystery also. How can xW30 and xW40 and xW50 all has the same top ambient temperature of 30 deg C? I am sure some Einsteins here will think they have an answer.

olympic~~~~~~!!! coming

r3 division will be erased from proton company....
no more r3 product


sos kicap

Why don't you mention the HTHS of an oil?

There are reports the HTHS of an Mineral oil may be higher than the HTHS of Synthetic. If that is indeed the case, that may explain why Lotus wanted 10W30 but not 0W30. Unfortunately, Petronas don't publish their HTHS figures. But I am sure there are many smart Einsteins here who think they are smarter than Lotus and know the answer to that one also.

aiyo... enough engine oil topic la... its friday night... cheer cheer cheer... olympic coming... once every 4 years only...

Finally solved the rattling issue of the dashboard. To other brothers who have the same problem, check the wiper area outside.

Not sure how the sound can intrude inside, but they dismantled the whole part of the wiper and replaced a new one. Sound gone. Happy adi.

Then on the eay back heard spme gluk gluk sound from the back. I was thinking, alamak, solve one problem, another pop out pulak. Check check around, actually the rear seats were not locked in place. Cheh. Make me worry so much.

Total time wasted today, 8 hours. And another 40 km added to my pdometer.

so tomorrow can spend can go jalan jalan show off new car?

4 days old only. Somehow when driving a new car, and you are so careful, you seem to notice more idiots on the road

Chilling put now at overtime having a well deserved pint, after just now did the soundproof rubber thing on all four doors.

my bad.. make everyone DIY the soundproof rubber..

Itsva good thing bro. Tomoro going back to Port Dickson, can test the soundproof.

Next in line is chrome lining, qmax grounding and a OBD bluetooth scanner. Im a car guy, i like to monitor my car engine performance.

oh.. i want comfort and handling.. so RIM and aircon filter will be my next.