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 Issue with 2008 Honda City

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TSguilt79
post Jul 8 2012, 09:52 PM, updated 9y ago

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Dear Sifus

I have encounter a problem with my Honda City 1.5L VTEC

My car keeps jerking for a while and when you drive at certain distance, it backs to normal.

Today even worse when I was stopping at the traffic, still under "D" and the jerking starts, even worse when I release my brake and accelerate, it didn't response and jerk heavily, then move.

I sent to Honda USJ service and complain twice but they still can't find the problem.

Anyone encounter this problem?
frantic912
post Jul 8 2012, 10:13 PM

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auto..? lot of people using auto facing this problem n still don know why...luckly my vios no problem like this....."at now n hopely this didnt happen someday"
MjMax15
post Jul 9 2012, 09:17 AM

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reflash ecu?
secondrate
post Jul 9 2012, 04:45 PM

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QUOTE(frantic912 @ Jul 8 2012, 10:13 PM)
auto..? lot of people using auto facing this problem n still don know why...luckly my vios no problem like this....."at now n hopely this didnt happen someday"
*
I think 2008 one is CVT? I dunno. My family has 2010 City, the one before recent facelift. Recently also it vibrates more in D mode when at traffic light and holding using the brake... my friends have Myvi also feel the same. I guess normal la.
frantic912
post Jul 9 2012, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(secondrate @ Jul 9 2012, 04:45 PM)
I think 2008 one is CVT? I dunno. My family has 2010 City, the one before recent facelift. Recently also it vibrates more in D mode when at traffic light and holding using the brake... my friends have Myvi also feel the same. I guess normal la.
*
if vibrate like that, my car also the same but if jerking like it didn't response and jerk heavily, then move than this must be have a problem with u car

This post has been edited by frantic912: Jul 9 2012, 05:05 PM
secondrate
post Jul 9 2012, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(frantic912 @ Jul 9 2012, 04:59 PM)
no la..maybe got problem..better check with ur service center...
*
Maybe, dunno. I've sat in many auto cars, all same. But ours still ok. My friend's Myvi vibrate like massage chair.

I drive manual car btw, my car vibration from clutch laugh.gif
frantic912
post Jul 9 2012, 05:10 PM

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QUOTE(secondrate @ Jul 9 2012, 05:04 PM)
Maybe, dunno. I've sat in many auto cars, all same. But ours still ok. My friend's Myvi vibrate like massage chair.

I drive manual car btw, my car vibration from clutch  laugh.gif
*
i just update my statement...hahahaha

before this using manual also, after change engine oil to castrol...my clutch vibrate also...hu3

This post has been edited by frantic912: Jul 9 2012, 05:26 PM
TSguilt79
post Jul 11 2012, 09:29 PM

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I tried to drive recently and found not much issue.

But still have this fear of sudden jerking..

Anyone encounter this issue? Yes, it's CVT. One of my friend said could be CVT time up..

But I change the CVT oil every 20,000 km..
raymond5105
post Jul 16 2012, 01:22 AM

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Hi there, you can try to service your air intake valve. Also you could try to check with your spark plugs conditon while servicing.
eek-1
post Jul 17 2012, 02:02 AM

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1. Does it happen on Neutral too?
2. Does the idle RPM fluctuate?
TSguilt79
post Jul 17 2012, 04:55 PM

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Thanks for feedback.

raymond5105,

I complaint this to USJ Honda Service Centre for 3 times and yet still unable to get it done. They say they can't figure out why.

eek-1

It happens when I drive in the morning. When stopped at traffic lights, it will start to jerk (like the car going to died down) This happen when I on D mode.

Also, everytime, I press the brake to slow down, it will also jerk when slowing down.

Is it CVT issue? But Honda recommends to service 40k, I service every 20k.

icon_question.gif icon_question.gif icon_question.gif
joshuaa85
post Jul 20 2012, 10:04 PM

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Honda , The Power Of Sucks
Kirie
post Jul 20 2012, 10:39 PM

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QUOTE(joshuaa85 @ Jul 20 2012, 10:04 PM)
Honda , The Power Of Sucks
*
women will like this.... drool.gif
WhitE LighteR
post Jul 20 2012, 10:42 PM

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what is your millage? remember that mostly cvt for honda city only last up to about 250,000 km.. the more abusive you are the faster its KO. so this might have something to do with your issue.
dares
post Jul 20 2012, 11:33 PM

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Wet clutch slipping?
TSguilt79
post Jul 21 2012, 08:49 AM

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I just reached 100k

The issue happen around 80,000 km. I suspect Honda service centre knows what happen but refuse to repair it.


joshuaa85
post Jul 21 2012, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(Kirie @ Jul 20 2012, 10:39 PM)
women will like this....  drool.gif
*
nothing do with thw women bro, if u really wan feel the power of honda, it's happen when you're dreaming !
Kirie
post Jul 21 2012, 01:27 PM

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QUOTE(joshuaa85 @ Jul 21 2012, 11:55 AM)
nothing do with thw women bro, if u really wan feel the power of honda, it's happen when you're dreaming !
*
haha..like that ke?

i think you are dreaming now whistling.gif
ulet
post Jul 21 2012, 01:55 PM

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QUOTE(guilt79 @ Jul 21 2012, 08:49 AM)
I just reached 100k

The issue happen around 80,000 km. I suspect Honda service centre knows what happen but refuse to repair it.
*
yo can go to consumer tribunal if the issues happened under warranty and they cannot solve it.
wh0cares
post Jul 21 2012, 06:30 PM

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how much to repair?
k!nex
post Jul 23 2012, 08:55 PM

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QUOTE(guilt79 @ Jul 8 2012, 09:52 PM)
Dear Sifus

I have encounter a problem with my Honda City 1.5L VTEC

My car keeps jerking for a while and when you drive at certain distance, it backs to normal.

Today even worse when I was stopping at the traffic, still under "D" and the jerking starts, even worse when I release my brake and accelerate, it didn't response and jerk heavily, then move.

I sent to Honda USJ service and complain twice but they still can't find the problem.

Anyone encounter this problem?
*
Happens to my own City 2001 too. But mine is not running with CVT . Mine is 4AT. What i do is, when u wanna accelerate and it jerks, you let go the pedal totally and pedal again to half throttle,just give some distance from the car in front then you wont bang so easily. Keep doing this and the problem will disappear. Mine no more already at least. Mechanic told me is the valve inside the throttle body got stucked due to low rev driving all the time.

It happens to my fren's first generation toyota altis as well.

Hope i help u.
ThunderGod_Cid
post Jul 24 2012, 12:55 PM

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when was the last time you changed your spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body?
TSguilt79
post Jul 28 2012, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(ThunderGod_Cid @ Jul 24 2012, 12:55 PM)
when was the last time you changed your spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body?
*
Thanks bro.

I leave this to my Honda service centre. But dunno why this USJ really did poorly.

Last service cost RM330. Previously cost RM1,500 and another cost RM1,300

Paid, still got problem. Service my front brake, cost RM300++ and feels like no difference.

Change belt, told them to tighten up, cost RM300++ still got the tweeting sound..

Don't go USJ Honda service centre. They are expensive and service sucks. You always need to go back 2nd or 3rd time.

If it ain't because it's near my office, I surely don't give them service.

ThunderGod_Cid
post Jul 28 2012, 03:20 PM

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you've yet to answer what i asked you bro. I guess you should give it a clean and check the condition of the plugs smile.gif
CYCHEAH6007
post Nov 18 2012, 06:51 AM

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Just for sharing.

Mine 2008 Honda City Vtec also encounter same issue, since mileage about 60,000km. Now my car clock about 94,000km.
When stop at traffic light - D mode, + pressing brake + aircond ON / OFF (usually morning / after work, car cool down for few hours), rpm suddenly drop from to about 300rpm...then it hit back up to about 1000rpm again as normal...this occur several time directly (about 5~6 jerking). If quickly shift from D to N, jerking stop.

This issue not occur every time when stop....but almost one / two day sure will got. In worst case, if heavy traffic jam - stop - go - stop -go...car will slightly jerk forward, but engine not dead.

I have send my car to Honda Kulim & Sungai Petani.

Honda Kulim technician not able to detect the jerking when test drive....
AT Honda Kulim, i have done the following but jerking not solve:
-- check EGR Valve (first trial)
-- clean throttle body (together with check EGR Valve)
-- flushing A/T gear box (2nd trial about 70,000km)
-- change spark plug (recently about 90,000km)

This of course include those normal service such as change A/T oil as per Honda service interval (about every 20,000km if not mistaken, and service Air Cond every 25,000km).

So recently i have send to Honda Sungai Petani, drop my car there for almost 2 weeks. After car overnight there, technician next morning when test drive so luckily detected the above said jerking issue when stop at traffic light. They did the following:
-- clean throttle body (said problem solve..... but when i test still jerking..so car have to leave there.... this of course not charging any cost since problem not solve, the throttle body is not the root cause).
-- adjust lifting and check using Honda module (not sure what is that, some sort of computer i think), BUT problem remain, still got jerking after i collect the car one week later from service center. So car have to quarantine again.
-- final rectification: CLEAN AIR INTAKE MANIFOLD. Technician said inside air intake manifold got lots of carbon accumulate, they even have to use some sand paper to remove it. Normal carbon cleaning is only at throttle body, cleaning air intake manifold he said require a bit more work. If throttle body cleaning not successful, air intake manifold should then be cleaned.

So, after car drop at Honda Sungai Petani for almost 2 weeks, finally yesterday i collect my car. And the whole day i drive and stop and drive, so far (touch wood), the jerking issue is no more. I will monitor it again, hopefully this will completely solve. I keep reminding them that don't simply change the thing without properly knowing the root cause, as i have did many in Honda Kulim but problem still persist. But of course Honda Kulim got require my permission when they want to / suggest the change.

I have search thru the website, LOWYAT, AUTOWORD FORUM, TEAMCITY...mostly said change flywheel, or worst case is gearbox. I got mentioned this FLYWHEEL to technician, they said if change flywheel they have to take out the gearbox....so normally will not do this first....unless the flywheel got sound....then only will do it.

So, for those who having the same issue, you guys may take this as a reference, maybe clean your air intake manifold. Cost about RM100.
Hopefully not up to changing flywheel or gearbox (if these are the root cause). Hope this help, and touch wood my city jerking not repeat anymore...will monitor and update later.

This post has been edited by CYCHEAH6007: Nov 18 2012, 06:56 AM
SUSjvcpcv55
post May 26 2013, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(CYCHEAH6007 @ Nov 18 2012, 06:51 AM)
Just for sharing.

Mine 2008 Honda City Vtec also encounter same issue, since mileage about 60,000km. Now my car clock about 94,000km.
When stop at traffic light - D mode, + pressing brake + aircond ON / OFF (usually morning / after work, car cool down for few hours), rpm suddenly drop from to about 300rpm...then it hit back up to about 1000rpm again as normal...this occur several time directly (about 5~6 jerking). If quickly shift from D to N, jerking stop.

This issue not occur every time when stop....but almost one / two day sure will got. In worst case, if heavy traffic jam - stop - go - stop -go...car will slightly jerk forward, but engine not dead.

I have send my car to Honda Kulim & Sungai Petani.

Honda Kulim technician not able to detect the jerking when test drive....
AT Honda Kulim, i have done the following but jerking not solve:
-- check EGR Valve (first trial)
-- clean throttle body (together with check EGR Valve)
-- flushing A/T gear box (2nd trial about 70,000km)
-- change spark plug (recently about 90,000km)

This of course include those normal service such as change A/T oil as per Honda service interval (about every 20,000km if not mistaken, and service Air Cond every 25,000km).

So recently i have send to Honda Sungai Petani, drop my car there for almost 2 weeks. After car overnight there, technician next morning when test drive so luckily detected the above said jerking issue when stop at traffic light. They did the following:
-- clean throttle body (said problem solve..... but when i test still jerking..so car have to leave there.... this of course not charging any cost since problem not solve, the throttle body is not the root cause).
-- adjust lifting and check using Honda module (not sure what is that, some sort of computer i think), BUT problem remain, still got jerking after i collect the car one week later from service center. So car have to quarantine again.
-- final rectification: CLEAN AIR INTAKE MANIFOLD. Technician said inside air intake manifold got lots of carbon accumulate, they even have to use some sand paper to remove it. Normal carbon cleaning is only at throttle body, cleaning air intake manifold he said require a bit more work. If throttle body cleaning not successful, air intake manifold should then be cleaned.

So, after car drop at Honda Sungai Petani for almost 2 weeks, finally yesterday i collect my car. And the whole day i drive and stop and drive, so far (touch wood), the jerking issue is no more. I will monitor it again, hopefully this will completely solve. I keep reminding them that don't simply change the thing without properly knowing the root cause, as i have did many in Honda Kulim but problem still persist. But of course Honda Kulim got require my permission when they want to / suggest the change.

I have search thru the website, LOWYAT, AUTOWORD FORUM, TEAMCITY...mostly said change flywheel, or worst case is gearbox. I got mentioned this FLYWHEEL to technician, they said if change flywheel they have to take out the gearbox....so normally will not do this first....unless the flywheel got sound....then only will do it.

So, for those who having the same issue, you guys may take this as a reference, maybe clean your air intake manifold. Cost about RM100.
Hopefully not up to changing flywheel or gearbox (if these are the root cause). Hope this help, and touch wood my city jerking not repeat anymore...will monitor and update later.
*
Bro,,, any update on your car?>???

problem solve?
ygjau
post Jun 27 2013, 10:14 PM

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my car jerking was diagnose with plug coil problem by HSC. my colleague also had the same problem and solved. I am going to replace the plug coil my self for RM750.

ohy85
post Sep 5 2013, 05:00 PM

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i know the problem. basically it's nothing to do with the CVT and there are a few problems that might have the same symptoms. i will list down most common ones first:

1. sparkplugs: Honda City 1.5 CVT uses iridium plugs. According to honda the plugs have lifespan of 100,000km but have known to be faulty even at 60k if you constantly rev over 5k RPM. mine died at 70,000km because i'm a vtec person.
symptoms: doesn't cause that much vibration but you will notice the RPM will dip suddenly causing the car to jerk at times when idling and also when slow accelleration. many have feared that their CVT have problems but this is not the case. just change the plugs. not any plugs because you have to use the same factory NGK iridium plugs. Damage: RM200+/set
Solution: replace

2. intake are control valve (IACV): most common issue associated with RPM drop when stopping, also when your aircon compressor kicks in. This version of honda city do not use an electronic sensor, the IACV is more of an actuator that controls the air flow to maintain stable idling. It controls air when you press on the brakes, turn your steering wheel, aircon kicks in, putting in D, etc. pretty much everything. this module rarely spoils but it can get dirty causing unstable idling when you do one of the above. if left unchecked, it can also lead to flywheel problem which is your next problem.
symptoms: RPM drops rapidly when you brake, compressor kicks in, turn your wheel, put on D.
Solution: just need to clean it but that's the tricky part. the IACV is screwed onto the throttle body with 4 security torx screws and no workshop have the key to open it. Honda CC will not bother to clean it for you and most probably ask you to change the entire throttle body. After some pain aching time, i got my friend to buy the security torx screw set for his workshop and i fixed the problem there.

3. flywheel: the CVT version uses a flywheel that sort of looks like a clutch, torque converter combo. There are 4 springs on this thing that can get loose over time. if this happens, it will increase the vibration and cause some crackling sound then the RPM drops too low.
Symptoms: most noticable when you put on reverse. RPM drops and engine seem to vibrate uncontrollably. you will hear the some crackling sound (that's actually the sound of your flywheel) just before your gear frees itself automatically and the RPM kicks back up by your ECU. This feature is meant to protect your engine and transmission but can get annoying at times.
Solution: change flywheel set for RM1400 at any Honda CC.


Honda City CVT issues: earlier models had issue with CVT but is only associated with aeroplane noises when idling and cruising. This problem was fixed and no longer present itself after the 2005 model. i believe they made the steel belt bigger and stronger. Many are also caused by workshops unfamiliar with CVT and used ATF when they should have used CVTF. Just make sure you service and replace the CVTF every 18,000km and you are safe. My Honda City Vtec 2007 model is already nearing 300,000km mileage and the CVT still works perfectly.
gunh
post Sep 5 2013, 05:04 PM

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Have you ask the SC to check your engine mounting? Your Honda city should have 3 nos of engine mounting. Worn out engine mounting may cause this jerking while accelerating...
ohy85
post Sep 5 2013, 05:06 PM

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These are the only issue i've ever had with my honda. no other issues. So i would still think it's a good car to drive.
wayfeel
post Sep 5 2013, 07:01 PM

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IS it the current honda city or the previous one that is 2005 hcity.

that one model is notorious for cvt jerking due to mistaken used of atf gb oil when it should be cvtf gb oil. widely known then, those years.

I own a 2005 vtec city....but never encountered this problem coz mine used cvtf all along.

if the current city that not use cvt then idk wat cause it....but maybe gb
wayfeel
post Sep 5 2013, 07:03 PM

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IS it the current honda city or the previous one that is 2005 hcity.

that one model is notorious for cvt jerking due to mistaken used of atf gb oil when it should be cvtf gb oil. widely known then, those years.

I own a 2005 vtec city....but never encountered this problem coz mine used cvtf all along.

if the current city that not use cvt then idk wat cause it....but maybe gb
SUSjvcpcv55
post Sep 7 2013, 06:07 PM

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QUOTE(wayfeel @ Sep 5 2013, 07:01 PM)
IS it the current honda city or the previous one that is 2005 hcity.

that one model is notorious for cvt jerking due to mistaken used of atf gb oil when it should be cvtf gb oil. widely known then, those years.

I own a 2005 vtec city....but never encountered this problem coz mine used cvtf all along.

if the current city that not use cvt then idk wat cause it....but maybe gb
*
2005 vtec city.
manage to pin point the problem, is the flywheel dry clutch plate worn,
apparently it using dry clutch system, so you need to change clutch plate just like any manual cars icon_rolleyes.gif
SUSjvcpcv55
post Sep 7 2013, 06:11 PM

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QUOTE(ohy85 @ Sep 5 2013, 05:00 PM)
i know the problem. basically it's nothing to do with the CVT and there are a few problems that might have the same symptoms. i will list down most common ones first:

1. sparkplugs: Honda City 1.5 CVT uses iridium plugs. According to honda the plugs have lifespan of 100,000km but have known to be faulty even at 60k if you constantly rev over 5k RPM. mine died at 70,000km because i'm a vtec person.
symptoms: doesn't cause that much vibration but you will notice the RPM will dip suddenly causing the car to jerk at times when idling and also when slow accelleration. many have feared that their CVT have problems but this is not the case. just change the plugs. not any plugs because you have to use the same factory NGK iridium plugs. Damage: RM200+/set
Solution: replace

2. intake are control valve (IACV): most common issue associated with RPM drop when stopping, also when your aircon compressor kicks in. This version of honda city do not use an electronic sensor, the IACV is more of an actuator that controls the air flow to maintain stable idling. It controls air when you press on the brakes, turn your steering wheel, aircon kicks in, putting in D, etc. pretty much everything. this module rarely spoils but it can get dirty causing unstable idling when you do one of the above. if left unchecked, it can also lead to flywheel problem which is your next problem.
symptoms: RPM drops rapidly when you brake, compressor kicks in, turn your wheel, put on D.
Solution: just need to clean it but that's the tricky part. the IACV is screwed onto the throttle body with 4 security torx screws and no workshop have the key to open it. Honda CC will not bother to clean it for you and most probably ask you to change the entire throttle body. After some pain aching time, i got my friend to buy the security torx screw set for his workshop and i fixed the problem there.

3. flywheel: the CVT version uses a flywheel that sort of looks like a clutch, torque converter combo. There are 4 springs on this thing that can get loose over time. if this happens, it will increase the vibration and cause some crackling sound then the RPM drops too low.
Symptoms: most noticable when you put on reverse. RPM drops and engine seem to vibrate uncontrollably. you will hear the some crackling sound (that's actually the sound of your flywheel) just before your gear frees itself automatically and the RPM kicks back up by your ECU. This feature is meant to protect your engine and transmission but can get annoying at times.
Solution: change flywheel set for RM1400 at any Honda CC.
Honda City CVT issues: earlier models had issue with CVT but is only associated with aeroplane noises when idling and cruising. This problem was fixed and no longer present itself after the 2005 model. i believe they made the steel belt bigger and stronger. Many are also caused by workshops unfamiliar with CVT and used ATF when they should have used CVTF. Just make sure you service and replace the CVTF every 18,000km and you are safe. My Honda City Vtec 2007 model is already nearing 300,000km mileage and the CVT still works perfectly.
*
thx for the replies thumbup.gif
wayfeel
post Sep 8 2013, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(jvcpcv55 @ Sep 7 2013, 06:07 PM)
2005 vtec city.
manage to pin point the problem,  is the flywheel dry clutch plate worn,
apparently it using dry clutch system, so you need to change clutch plate just like any manual cars icon_rolleyes.gif
*
bro how much is that, if replaced from honda sc or outside job? is it big job or small

first time hear that leh...jerk due to that issue...

and u said honda usj cant find the problem so who actually did if honda themselves couldnt

SUSjvcpcv55
post Sep 8 2013, 12:33 PM

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QUOTE(wayfeel @ Sep 8 2013, 12:03 AM)
bro how much is that, if replaced from honda sc or outside job? is it big job or small

first time hear that leh...jerk due to that issue...

and guilt79 said honda usj cant find the problem so who actually did if honda themselves couldnt
*
just say different SC have different skill levels nod.gif

changed at honda ~rm1200 (include some other works)

This post has been edited by jvcpcv55: Sep 8 2013, 12:41 PM
ohy85
post Sep 10 2013, 02:46 PM

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Honda city jerking is either the flywheel or iridium plugs. CVT no issues if you service regularly.
imran
post Jan 1 2014, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(ohy85 @ Sep 5 2013, 05:00 PM)
i know the problem. basically it's nothing to do with the CVT and there are a few problems that might have the same symptoms. i will list down most common ones first:

1. sparkplugs: Honda City 1.5 CVT uses iridium plugs. According to honda the plugs have lifespan of 100,000km but have known to be faulty even at 60k if you constantly rev over 5k RPM. mine died at 70,000km because i'm a vtec person.
symptoms: doesn't cause that much vibration but you will notice the RPM will dip suddenly causing the car to jerk at times when idling and also when slow accelleration. many have feared that their CVT have problems but this is not the case. just change the plugs. not any plugs because you have to use the same factory NGK iridium plugs. Damage: RM200+/set
Solution: replace

2. intake are control valve (IACV): most common issue associated with RPM drop when stopping, also when your aircon compressor kicks in. This version of honda city do not use an electronic sensor, the IACV is more of an actuator that controls the air flow to maintain stable idling. It controls air when you press on the brakes, turn your steering wheel, aircon kicks in, putting in D, etc. pretty much everything. this module rarely spoils but it can get dirty causing unstable idling when you do one of the above. if left unchecked, it can also lead to flywheel problem which is your next problem.
symptoms: RPM drops rapidly when you brake, compressor kicks in, turn your wheel, put on D.
Solution: just need to clean it but that's the tricky part. the IACV is screwed onto the throttle body with 4 security torx screws and no workshop have the key to open it. Honda CC will not bother to clean it for you and most probably ask you to change the entire throttle body. After some pain aching time, i got my friend to buy the security torx screw set for his workshop and i fixed the problem there.

3. flywheel: the CVT version uses a flywheel that sort of looks like a clutch, torque converter combo. There are 4 springs on this thing that can get loose over time. if this happens, it will increase the vibration and cause some crackling sound then the RPM drops too low.
Symptoms: most noticable when you put on reverse. RPM drops and engine seem to vibrate uncontrollably. you will hear the some crackling sound (that's actually the sound of your flywheel) just before your gear frees itself automatically and the RPM kicks back up by your ECU. This feature is meant to protect your engine and transmission but can get annoying at times.
Solution: change flywheel set for RM1400 at any Honda CC.
Honda City CVT issues: earlier models had issue with CVT but is only associated with aeroplane noises when idling and cruising. This problem was fixed and no longer present itself after the 2005 model. i believe they made the steel belt bigger and stronger. Many are also caused by workshops unfamiliar with CVT and used ATF when they should have used CVTF. Just make sure you service and replace the CVTF every 18,000km and you are safe. My Honda City Vtec 2007 model is already nearing 300,000km mileage and the CVT still works perfectly.
*
good info
soket
post Jan 7 2014, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(jvcpcv55 @ Sep 8 2013, 12:33 PM)
just say different SC have different skill levels nod.gif

changed at honda ~rm1200 (include some other works)
*
sg long honda quote me 1.7k

on mudah.com i found ppl selling ori flywheel for 650

not yet decide where to get it fix
frostworld
post Apr 7 2014, 11:54 AM

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any updates for the rpm jerking?
babygrand123
post Apr 12 2014, 05:59 AM

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QUOTE(ohy85 @ Sep 5 2013, 05:00 PM)
i know the problem. basically it's nothing to do with the CVT and there are a few problems that might have the same symptoms. i will list down most common ones first:

1. sparkplugs: Honda City 1.5 CVT uses iridium plugs. According to honda the plugs have lifespan of 100,000km but have known to be faulty even at 60k if you constantly rev over 5k RPM. mine died at 70,000km because i'm a vtec person.
symptoms: doesn't cause that much vibration but you will notice the RPM will dip suddenly causing the car to jerk at times when idling and also when slow accelleration. many have feared that their CVT have problems but this is not the case. just change the plugs. not any plugs because you have to use the same factory NGK iridium plugs. Damage: RM200+/set
Solution: replace

2. intake are control valve (IACV): most common issue associated with RPM drop when stopping, also when your aircon compressor kicks in. This version of honda city do not use an electronic sensor, the IACV is more of an actuator that controls the air flow to maintain stable idling. It controls air when you press on the brakes, turn your steering wheel, aircon kicks in, putting in D, etc. pretty much everything. this module rarely spoils but it can get dirty causing unstable idling when you do one of the above. if left unchecked, it can also lead to flywheel problem which is your next problem.
symptoms: RPM drops rapidly when you brake, compressor kicks in, turn your wheel, put on D.
Solution: just need to clean it but that's the tricky part. the IACV is screwed onto the throttle body with 4 security torx screws and no workshop have the key to open it. Honda CC will not bother to clean it for you and most probably ask you to change the entire throttle body. After some pain aching time, i got my friend to buy the security torx screw set for his workshop and i fixed the problem there.

3. flywheel: the CVT version uses a flywheel that sort of looks like a clutch, torque converter combo. There are 4 springs on this thing that can get loose over time. if this happens, it will increase the vibration and cause some crackling sound then the RPM drops too low.
Symptoms: most noticable when you put on reverse. RPM drops and engine seem to vibrate uncontrollably. you will hear the some crackling sound (that's actually the sound of your flywheel) just before your gear frees itself automatically and the RPM kicks back up by your ECU. This feature is meant to protect your engine and transmission but can get annoying at times.
Solution: change flywheel set for RM1400 at any Honda CC.
Honda City CVT issues: earlier models had issue with CVT but is only associated with aeroplane noises when idling and cruising. This problem was fixed and no longer present itself after the 2005 model. i believe they made the steel belt bigger and stronger. Many are also caused by workshops unfamiliar with CVT and used ATF when they should have used CVTF. Just make sure you service and replace the CVTF every 18,000km and you are safe. My Honda City Vtec 2007 model is already nearing 300,000km mileage and the CVT still works perfectly.
*
thanks for sharing bro thumbup.gif
TSguilt79
post Apr 12 2014, 10:30 AM

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I didn't manage to solve this problem..

Lost patience and sold the car already.. bye.gif bye.gif bye.gif

BTW, hope the new City don't have this issue. After this, kinda lost confidence in CVT.. cry.gif

This post has been edited by guilt79: Apr 12 2014, 10:31 AM
dav3
post Apr 27 2014, 12:47 AM

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my car still having the jerking problem under D mode after Clean Air Intake Manifold. I guess i have to change the spark plug for verification
frostworld
post Apr 29 2014, 07:03 PM

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Solved my prob, change the flywheel. and do not do it at honda sc, as they charge u a bomb!
wrb7878
post May 19 2014, 12:23 PM

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Finally i also solved my problem.
ftptwistedclown
post May 26 2014, 08:22 AM

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QUOTE(frostworld @ Apr 29 2014, 07:03 PM)
Solved my prob, change the flywheel. and do not do it at honda sc, as they charge u a bomb!
*
QUOTE(wrb7878 @ May 19 2014, 12:23 PM)
Finally i also solved my problem.
*
flywheel? how much it cost? and where u done it?
Volfeed
post May 26 2014, 02:07 PM

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Did a check on my City last week, find out the flywheel also need replacing.

Problem -> Jerking during acceleration / CVT auto shift down. Hopefully this will eliminate the problem.

Mileage: 260,000 km already.

This post has been edited by Volfeed: May 26 2014, 02:08 PM
frostworld
post May 26 2014, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(wrb7878 @ May 19 2014, 12:23 PM)
Finally i also solved my problem.
*
QUOTE(ftptwistedclown @ May 26 2014, 08:22 AM)
flywheel? how much it cost? and where u done it?
*
wrb7878, you solved by changing flywheel as well? How much u did it?
Mine at RM1200 inclusive of ats oil change, flywheel, labour.

wrb7878
post May 30 2014, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(frostworld @ May 26 2014, 10:46 PM)
wrb7878, you solved by changing flywheel as well? How much u did it?
Mine at RM1200 inclusive of ats oil change, flywheel, labour.
*
Hi, i don't have problem on flywheel now yet, Mileage: 120,000 km only.
I think the shop quote RM750 for flywheel including installation.

My jerking issues is on coil plug only, 1 of the 8 coil plug is broken.
So just change used coil plug RM80, i think new coil plug is 170-200(google from honda dealer).
I'm so happy that i can drive my car without any jerking problem now, feel want to change new car after Honda SC tell me this is standard problem on City and cost 5K++ to solve it....I hope i can drive another 2-3 year without problem. My city is 6 year now. rclxms.gif

I hope this LINK can help those have issues on your City.
http://armanautocare.blogspot.com/p/jazzcity.html


wrb7878
post May 30 2014, 11:36 AM

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QUOTE(Volfeed @ May 26 2014, 02:07 PM)
Did a check on my City last week, find out the flywheel also need replacing.

Problem -> Jerking during acceleration / CVT auto shift down. Hopefully this will eliminate the problem.

Mileage: 260,000 km already.
*
Who tell you flywheel problem? Better send to specialist to check on it.
Mine end up just 1 of coil plug problem only...

Hope my LINK above can help you. thumbup.gif
wrb7878
post May 30 2014, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(ftptwistedclown @ May 26 2014, 08:22 AM)
flywheel? how much it cost? and where u done it?
*
Please check my LINK and call them and ask for best price.
I read from their facebook, he got mention around 750.
Volfeed
post May 30 2014, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(wrb7878 @ May 30 2014, 11:36 AM)
Who tell you flywheel problem? Better send to specialist to check on it.
Mine end up just 1 of coil plug problem only...

Hope my LINK above can help you.  thumbup.gif
*
Well, Honda SC gave me that information smile.gif
zainms
post Jan 17 2015, 12:08 AM

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QUOTE(Volfeed @ May 26 2014, 02:07 PM)
Did a check on my City last week, find out the flywheel also need replacing.

Problem -> Jerking during acceleration / CVT auto shift down. Hopefully this will eliminate the problem.

Mileage: 260,000 km already.
*
Bro, this will be ur 1st tym change/replace the flywheel?

Tanx...
roadie
post Feb 18 2015, 06:32 PM

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QUOTE(ohy85 @ Sep 5 2013, 05:00 PM)
2. intake are control valve (IACV): most common issue associated with RPM drop when stopping, also when your aircon compressor kicks in. This version of honda city do not use an electronic sensor, the IACV is more of an actuator that controls the air flow to maintain stable idling. It controls air when you press on the brakes, turn your steering wheel, aircon kicks in, putting in D, etc. pretty much everything. this module rarely spoils but it can get dirty causing unstable idling when you do one of the above. if left unchecked, it can also lead to flywheel problem which is your next problem.
symptoms: RPM drops rapidly when you brake, compressor kicks in, turn your wheel, put on D.
Solution: just need to clean it but that's the tricky part. the IACV is screwed onto the throttle body with 4 security torx screws and no workshop have the key to open it. Honda CC will not bother to clean it for you and most probably ask you to change the entire throttle body. After some pain aching time, i got my friend to buy the security torx screw set for his workshop and i fixed the problem there.
*
anyone know workshop that got that security torx screw set, and can open and clean IACV?

This post has been edited by roadie: Feb 18 2015, 06:36 PM
mytaffeta
post Feb 19 2015, 03:15 AM

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QUOTE(roadie @ Feb 18 2015, 06:32 PM)
anyone know workshop that got that security torx screw set, and can open and clean IACV?
*
google honda specialist ampang, or link provided in few post back.. they know everything about honda's car.. recommended..
special
post Nov 17 2016, 04:21 PM

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QUOTE(secondrate @ Jul 9 2012, 04:45 PM)
I think 2008 one is CVT? I dunno. My family has 2010 City, the one before recent facelift. Recently also it vibrates more in D mode when at traffic light and holding using the brake... my friends have Myvi also feel the same. I guess normal la.
*
at D while holding brake and it vibrates - you car Throttle body got problem. first step is to clean the throttle body. service about Rm 120.
if still fail then have to change throttle body.

second possible issue is engine mounting. but engine mounting is obvious. even at idle the engine vibration is visible.
cause the engine is no longer in a firm holding position.

for spark plugs, this morning I just identify my Honda city 2006, coil broke. how it broke I don't know.
while idle to drive once a while the car jerk. Honda original coil plug cost RM 500++ . better buy the spare parts yourself outside at RM 150.

rgds, chris dna hr capital sdn bhd

This post has been edited by special: Nov 17 2016, 04:23 PM
RicoT
post Nov 18 2016, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE(guilt79 @ Jul 8 2012, 09:52 PM)
Dear Sifus

I have encounter a problem with my Honda City 1.5L VTEC

My car keeps jerking for a while and when you drive at certain distance, it backs to normal.

Today even worse when I was stopping at the traffic, still under "D" and the jerking starts, even worse when I release my brake and accelerate, it didn't response and jerk heavily, then move.

I sent to Honda USJ service and complain twice but they still can't find the problem.

Anyone encounter this problem?
*
Happened to my 2004 City, sooner or later, it will jerk non-stop while driving and about a few months later the "D" light on instrument cluster will keep blinking. This jerking is as in rowing boat jerk (like you press accelerator and release, press accelerator and release, non-stop), not vibrate shake shake jerk. Have to change whole gearbox.

If vibrate shake shake jerking, try replace transmission mounting and engine mounting together. Last time I replaced at Honda SC, significantly reduced vibrate shake shake jerking.

This post has been edited by RicoT: Nov 18 2016, 11:51 AM
secondrate
post Nov 20 2016, 05:08 PM

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QUOTE(special @ Nov 17 2016, 04:21 PM)
at D while holding brake and it vibrates - you car Throttle body got problem. first step is to clean the throttle body. service about Rm 120.
if still fail then have to change throttle body.

second possible issue is engine mounting. but engine mounting is obvious. even at idle the engine vibration is visible.
cause the engine is no longer in a firm holding position.

for spark plugs, this morning I just identify my Honda city 2006, coil broke. how it broke I don't know.
while idle to drive once a while the car jerk. Honda original coil plug cost RM 500++ . better buy the spare parts yourself outside at RM 150.

rgds, chris dna hr capital sdn bhd
*
Actually it was the throttle body dirty. Had it cleaned at Honda SC and fine now.
arinsms
post Jan 25 2017, 12:02 PM

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noted
delsoo
post Jan 25 2017, 12:16 PM

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QUOTE(guilt79 @ Jul 8 2012, 09:52 PM)
Dear Sifus

I have encounter a problem with my Honda City 1.5L VTEC

My car keeps jerking for a while and when you drive at certain distance, it backs to normal.

Today even worse when I was stopping at the traffic, still under "D" and the jerking starts, even worse when I release my brake and accelerate, it didn't response and jerk heavily, then move.

I sent to Honda USJ service and complain twice but they still can't find the problem.

Anyone encounter this problem?
*
I have city 04 idsi . I have the same problem , the mechanic told me to replace the spark plug . IDSI version gt 8 spark plug , i havent replace it yet . sweat.gif
Hao+
post Jan 25 2017, 05:26 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 25 2017, 12:16 PM)
I have city 04 idsi . I have the same problem , the mechanic told me to replace the spark plug . IDSI version gt 8 spark plug , i havent replace it yet .  sweat.gif
*
Had the same problem. Replaced all spark plugs now no issue de rclxm9.gif my advice, go to ori sc to replace. Last time went to outside mechanic only to find out sc charge about rm20 cheaper
delsoo
post Jan 25 2017, 08:21 PM

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QUOTE(Hao+ @ Jan 25 2017, 05:26 PM)
Had the same problem. Replaced all spark plugs now no issue de  rclxm9.gif my advice, go to ori sc to replace. Last time went to outside mechanic only to find out sc charge about rm20 cheaper
*
How much totally ?
faridr
post Jan 25 2017, 10:50 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 25 2017, 12:16 PM)
I have city 04 idsi . I have the same problem , the mechanic told me to replace the spark plug . IDSI version gt 8 spark plug , i havent replace it yet .  sweat.gif
*
Just replace with normal ngk spark plug which are good for 30000 km, cant remember the cost, but less than 100 for 8.

Btw could be due to degrading plug coil, especially the 4 plug coil located behind the engine due to trapped heat. New one cost around rm280 for one plug coil, but can get halfcut around rm80.

This post has been edited by faridr: Jan 25 2017, 10:51 PM
Hao+
post Jan 26 2017, 08:16 AM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 25 2017, 08:21 PM)
How  much  totally ?
*
Iirc it's around rm100-140
TSguilt79
post Jan 28 2017, 01:36 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 25 2017, 12:16 PM)
I have city 04 idsi . I have the same problem , the mechanic told me to replace the spark plug . IDSI version gt 8 spark plug , i havent replace it yet .  sweat.gif
*
Sold my car already.

Went to USJ SC. Say spark plug problem. I say it happen before I changed it. Then say is throttle problem.

I'd say forget it and I'll come take the car. Obviously, the SC say must charge me RM80 for labor charge, which is check only.

Went to another SC. Sumber Auto. Also dunno what happen. Went to trusted workshop. Also no solution..

Sell the car already.
delsoo
post Jan 28 2017, 02:59 PM

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QUOTE(guilt79 @ Jan 28 2017, 01:36 PM)
Sold my car already.

Went to USJ SC. Say spark plug problem. I say it happen before I changed it. Then say is throttle problem.

I'd say forget it and I'll come take the car. Obviously, the SC say must charge me RM80 for labor charge, which is check only.

Went to another SC. Sumber Auto. Also dunno what happen. Went to trusted workshop. Also no solution..

Sell the car already.
*
Wah , how much you sold it ? Now change new car already ?
4Rex P
post May 23 2019, 07:20 PM

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Greeting to all,

May I know anyone of you solve the car issues (VTec Jerk) ?

Mine still same (jerk) -after replaced :

1. New 4 Iridium Plug
2. Clean Up Throttle Body
3. Cleam Up IACV

Now is at the last part is Flywheel not yet replace - Huhuhu !

Any comments ?

TQ.
ParkBoGum
post May 24 2019, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(4Rex @ May 23 2019, 07:20 PM)
Greeting to all,

May I know anyone of you solve the car issues (VTec Jerk) ?

Mine still same (jerk) -after replaced :

1. New 4 Iridium Plug
2. Clean Up Throttle Body
3. Cleam Up IACV

Now is at the last part is Flywheel not yet replace - Huhuhu !

Any comments ?

TQ.
*
Jerking should be because of CVT. Cost my family close to 6k to repair, but two years after no more jerking issues.
cempedaklife
post May 24 2019, 02:40 PM

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does this version have ATF filter behind/below the air filter box at the engine compartment?

good idea to change it. my 2011 (2009 version) city have it and i replaced it around 100k km as per recommended by one of the forummer here.

much more smoother since then.

there is actually two filter, one near engine (the circular one, is the one i changed), and the one near transmission (i think the square one) which the honda genuine stockist that i went to say people dont usually change unless they want to open up the transmission.

https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/t/honda-fi...r-change/243277

This post has been edited by cempedaklife: May 24 2019, 02:45 PM
abubin
post May 24 2019, 03:06 PM

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For those who have changed ATF, do you use Honda ATF as recommended or use other brand? Cause lots of fake Honda ATF out there. Less chances of fake if use some brand that nobody will fake.
cempedaklife
post May 24 2019, 04:29 PM

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QUOTE(abubin @ May 24 2019, 03:06 PM)
For those who have changed ATF, do you use Honda ATF as recommended or use other brand? Cause lots of fake Honda ATF out there. Less chances of fake if use some brand that nobody will fake.
*
i thought no one will fake ATF coz its cheap. i still buy honda ATF, but online though mega_shok.gif
abubin
post May 24 2019, 04:42 PM

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QUOTE(cempedaklife @ May 24 2019, 04:29 PM)
i thought no one will fake ATF coz its cheap. i still buy honda ATF, but online though  mega_shok.gif
*
There are even fake Coolant which is even cheaper than ATF. Read somewhere a mechanic with many years experience say he fixed a lot of cars with transmission problem due to fake ATF.

BTW, which one did you get? ATF Z1 or DW1? The recommended for City is Z1 but I read Z1 is not in production anymore and DW1 is the replacement however I still see Z1 being sold.

This post has been edited by abubin: May 24 2019, 04:43 PM
cempedaklife
post May 24 2019, 05:13 PM

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QUOTE(abubin @ May 24 2019, 04:42 PM)
There are even fake Coolant which is even cheaper than ATF. Read somewhere a mechanic with many years experience say he fixed a lot of cars with transmission problem due to fake ATF.

BTW, which one did you get? ATF Z1 or DW1? The recommended for City is Z1 but I read Z1 is not in production anymore and DW1 is the replacement however I still see Z1 being sold.
*
mine is city 2011, non cvt, so use DW1. CVT use another one i think. i think CVT is big bottle.
Exactly 3 bottle is needed. Exactly. That is what honda specialist foreman said to me.

I got once. I brought 4 bottle, the guy from neighbourhood workshop used 3 bottle and open the fourth and used sikit aje.
I end up throwing it away coz I change almost once a year. how to keep a year opened bottle laugh.gif

 

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