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 Car audio electrical problem, Fuse, alternator spoiled

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TSJeffreyYap
post Jun 28 2012, 10:42 AM, updated 14y ago

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Hi all, i fully modify my satria neo's audio system, with one 600watt amp and an ordinary woofer.
But every 1-2 months, my fuse(not sure what it call, 100w fuse i guess) will spoil, engine mati and tow for 2 times already. My alternator spoiled too, just changed a new one.
Sent it to foreman , and my foreman said, "wire zou dian/ zao din(chinese)" and too much watt already. He suggested me to change a 120w alternator.
I plan to remove my amp and woofer.
Is there any way to solve it? Maybe the person who install my audio install the wire wrongly?
Sorry for some grammars mistake.

This post has been edited by JeffreyYap: Jun 28 2012, 10:47 AM
craziechild
post Jun 28 2012, 11:47 AM

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Now I assume that your alternator is a 70A ones. Which is the normal rating for proton except Proton Perdana that use 90A.

P=IV ;
Given:
Power, W: 600Wmax, assuming 300Wrms @ 4ohm.
Car electrical source, V: 11.7V ~ 13.3V Assuming your alternator wasn't at the best state to start with.
Find Current, I(A).

Your audio system consumes around 22 ~ 25A when running on 300Wrms @ 4 ohm, 45 ~ 50A when running on 600Wmax.

conclusion: your fuse is just useless, and the fact that it breaks normally means your system has a bigger problem.

So my point of view is that its not your alternator or wirings at fault. For alternator fault, normally your battery runs dry, your lights dims, hard start in the morning, but no fuse breaks because there is no supply that is capable to break the fuse to start with. wiring fault, the system would have been burnt way back if there is no protection circuit on the amps...

so my take, the fault is at the audio system itself. Could be one of the MOSFET, could be just the amp power supply. Its directly shorting the current to the chasis (GND/-ve). Causing a spike on the in-rush currents,I(A), which I pretty much could be sure is over 100A, thats why your fuse breaks and before it breaks, the alternator takes the plunge.

Why did all this happen to a good person like you that only wants to enjoy music? Well, thats a mystery because we all don't know whats the amp or the sub, we only know its ordinary, well unless its from outer space, its ordinary...

Now taking out your system is a good idea, I foresee the amp going to be hay-wired when you install in another car or the sub shows a lot of burnt marks on the voice coils.

probably you are scratching your head now or the fuse is about to blow... I am sorry that I ranted. I rant because I am just too free in my office and my laptop keeps hangs when I am on photoshop...

This is the part for you in the end,

1. Take it off your ride, its not doing you or the ride any good to start with.
2. Buy quality parts, even if it means selling off your kidneys just to enjoy music, do it.
3. No daisy chain on the audio system, I learnt the hard way when i was lazy and unprofessional back in those days.

apologies for ranting,
it's just too boring here.
If I hurt your feelings,
next EA TT i buy you TT.

cheers.gif

This post has been edited by craziechild: Jun 28 2012, 11:49 AM
Nightstalker1993
post Jun 28 2012, 12:20 PM

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From: Subang Jaya


QUOTE(craziechild @ Jun 28 2012, 11:47 AM)
Now I assume that your alternator is a 70A ones. Which is the normal rating for proton except Proton Perdana that use 90A.

P=IV ;
Given:
Power, W: 600Wmax, assuming 300Wrms @ 4ohm.
Car electrical source, V: 11.7V ~ 13.3V Assuming your alternator wasn't at the best state to start with.
Find Current, I(A).

Your audio system consumes around 22 ~ 25A when running on 300Wrms @ 4 ohm, 45 ~ 50A when running on 600Wmax.

conclusion: your fuse is just useless, and the fact that it breaks normally means your system has a bigger problem.

So my point of view is that its not your alternator or wirings at fault. For alternator fault, normally your battery runs dry, your lights dims, hard start in the morning, but no fuse breaks because there is no supply that is capable to break the fuse to start with. wiring fault, the system would have been burnt way back if there is no protection circuit on the amps...

so my take, the fault is at the audio system itself. Could be one of the MOSFET, could be just the amp power supply. Its directly shorting the current to the chasis (GND/-ve). Causing a spike on the in-rush currents,I(A), which I pretty much could be sure is over 100A, thats why your fuse breaks and before it breaks, the alternator takes the plunge.

Why did all this happen to a good person like you that only wants to enjoy music? Well, thats a mystery because we all don't know whats the amp or the sub, we only know its ordinary, well unless its from outer space, its ordinary...

Now taking out your system is a good idea, I foresee the amp going to be hay-wired when you install in another car or the sub shows a lot of burnt marks on the voice coils.

probably you are scratching your head now or the fuse is about to blow... I am sorry that I ranted. I rant because I am just too free in my office and my laptop keeps hangs when I am on photoshop...

This is the part for you in the end,

1. Take it off your ride, its not doing you or the ride any good to start with.
2. Buy quality parts, even if it means selling off your kidneys just to enjoy music, do it.
3. No daisy chain on the audio system, I learnt the hard way when i was lazy and unprofessional back in those days.

apologies for ranting,
it's just too boring here.
If I hurt your feelings,
next EA TT i buy you TT.

cheers.gif
*
Yay! That means you're coming for the TT rclxm9.gif laugh.gif
craziechild
post Jun 28 2012, 01:40 PM

ICE HiFi Fanatic!
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721 posts

Joined: Mar 2006
From: Malaysia | Singapore


i am not promising... biggrin.gif
newtoapple
post Jun 28 2012, 06:28 PM

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Something is not right with the wiring...how come the engine can mati!..very dangerous...
zennn
post Jun 29 2012, 02:52 PM

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Joined: Jan 2009


screwed up installation probly....definitely not bcoz too much power, 600W is nothing much....

 

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