Kudos to you my bratha

Former Malaysia defender Singh appointed director of football at relegated Blackburn Rovers

Eat your hearts out...

Dude...none in the statement pointed of one being envious.

The definition for the role of an Director of Football is not at all limited to being a mediator between two factions alone.

SQL = Sound Quality Level

Well if you're playing your Maximo off the passives and are rated at 90W RMS irregardless of how much your amp churns out that 90W RMS is what it'll get. A crossover simply filters out a signal. You can add things like impedence correction, where the load seen by the amp at a certain frequency will be higher impedence then that of the drivers.

This can perhaps be seen as limiting power factor when running passives?

This post has been edited by Xai-V-iaX: Jun 20 2012, 01:26 PM

I suppose you are referring to the 3 level setting for the tweeters off the passives right? You can adjust the output level of the tweeter on the crossover to -6 dB, -3 dB, or 0 dB.

Well extra RMS draw doesn't necessarily kills off your voice coils and suspensions IMHO. You are forgetting that your amps don't run at 100% efficiency (apart from Class A amps).

A basic rule is to work out your speaker's RMS power rating and impedance loading on each amplifier channel, then make sure the amplifier is capable of delivering 50 - 100% RMS power above the speaker's RMS power rating. An example would be, 1 x 200watt RMS 4 Ohm speaker per channel should have an amplifier capable of delivering 300 - 400watts RMS per channel at 4 Ohms, and if you use 2 x 200watt RMS 4 Ohm speakers per channel and you require an amplifier capable of delivering 600 - 800watts RMS at 4ohms, and so on.

It all depends on individuals actually. I drive my tweeters & mids each with 200W RMS. Am I over-killing my speakers & tweets? Theoretically it may look like I am but I am also considering the efficiency rate the amplifier runs at and the gain its set to deliver.

***YES....the speakers will get 100W RMS if you feed them 100W RMS actively but if you're running them passives - that's what your crossovers are there for....

This post has been edited by Xai-V-iaX: Jun 20 2012, 02:03 PM

Bugger...why you pulling in my mod list in now huh?

This post has been edited by Xai-V-iaX: Jun 20 2012, 02:06 PM

My mistake - was supposed to type Class AB (tho most amps nowadays are Class AB)

Missed on the 'B'...

Class D amps are also considered very efficient....

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Added on June 20, 2012, 4:41 pmAgree 100% on this with you....

tho' I have to admit on the typo mistake on the Class AB & Class A

This post has been edited by Xai-V-iaX: Jun 20 2012, 04:59 PM

Yup...there are certain characters that Class A churns not achievable via any other amps. Class AB, D, G or even Hybrid amps.

Audio is very universal...having the most expensive setup doesn't guarantee the best sound either...

Well I did not want to go there but yea...TUNING makes one hell of a difference...ask Rublik

Eclipse is/was actually a very very good brand. Their items were top notch espc their h/u and to a certain their speakers, subs and amps as well.

Your 1st statement just proved its universal mate - Music, Singer, Genre, SQ, Tunability and etc....its not contented to one aspect only...tho I do agree with you when you its personal as well....what I hear might not sooth your ears at the same time...

On the second statement...hey, that list doesn't prove anything. Just some lame phrases and model names/numbers....

Contemplating to join in too

I believe this one the brand itself is Stiff Ring right?

The legendary 8053

Never tried that before but I have used the AVX5000 with DCU105 some eons back....

Maybe you should consider this

Good one

ICT Bergerak

Improvement you mean....

Wonder what more you have to fix?

Isn't yours already jam-packed already