I have driven the Bold and Preve. Preve has better road holding but less responsive than Bold. I prefer Bold.
Proton Prevé V11, Place where facts are shared, not hatred
Proton Prevé V11, Place where facts are shared, not hatred
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Jun 14 2012, 10:04 PM
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#1
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I have driven the Bold and Preve. Preve has better road holding but less responsive than Bold. I prefer Bold.
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Jun 15 2012, 12:23 PM
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#2
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QUOTE(Dark Adam @ Jun 15 2012, 11:00 AM) i was in my boss camry 2.0 many time.. i can tell u the cvt sound is clearly can notice (same as preve).. the door trim and dashboard maybe is better material la.. Camry 2.0 got CVT? |
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Jun 15 2012, 02:23 PM
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#3
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Jun 15 2012, 02:28 PM
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#4
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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 15 2012, 02:26 PM) How can stamp the same engine number? If Proton needs to trace, then will have duplicate record of two engines with the same number roll off the factory on different time/date... Can. Been there. Done that. Just need endorsement on registration card with new engine number.On the other hand, once engine is replaced and noted in the geran, resale value will go down the drain This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 15 2012, 02:28 PM |
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Jun 16 2012, 10:08 AM
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#5
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So does this CFE engine uses roller tappet?
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Jun 16 2012, 10:31 AM
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#6
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QUOTE(maverickng @ Jun 16 2012, 10:19 AM) 5 litres?is 4 litres....not 5 I thing I notice with Malaysian mechanic. They always like to fill BEYOND the maximum mark on the dipstick. So while the manual says 4 liter, they may want to put in more than 4 liter?where u service?small dealer sc cant solve claiming item...need go PE sc |
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Jun 16 2012, 11:16 AM
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#7
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QUOTE(speed2horizon @ Jun 16 2012, 10:59 AM) Things with turbocharging. Over oil pressure can cause turbo seals to worn off and causes sluggishness to the engine. When the pistons goes down, it needs to counter the pressure cause by the oil vapor formation. Well, there are a lot of new abreviation I need to get used to... Added on June 16, 2012, 11:02 am I put 34psi. I received my car with extreme high pressure. Felt bouncy and car was jumping on humbs. Went for bleed at petrol station and notice it was abt 60psi... God... Amacam ini buleh berlaku...??? 1. Over filling the engine with engine oil to above the "MAX" dipstick mark 2. Over inflating the tires. I just don't understand.... |
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Jun 16 2012, 12:50 PM
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#8
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QUOTE(speed2horizon @ Jun 16 2012, 12:45 PM) Yes... Stress on the tyre wall would highly increase. You got it the wrong way around. Generally speaking, an under-inflated tires will heat up more. An over-inflated tires will heat up less.Especially when those ppl whom collect their car and go on a long journey out station, balik kampung etc. the heat in the tyre will increase the pressure in the tyre and sufficient to explode the tyre. Imagine mine was 60psi. 20% up on a journey to Penang wil make it 70-80psi... |
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Jun 16 2012, 02:41 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(G K Lai @ Jun 16 2012, 02:21 PM) I am more afraid if we drive an overinflated tyres' car to Genting or Cameron Highlands. I don't think 40psi would have much to worry about anything popping. Instead, I am more worried about reduced road holding traction at tight corner going downhill due to excessively high tire pressure.If you brought potato chips up there, the packaging bag will expand like hell, then how's our overinflated tyres? Many thanks for the detailed review! |
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Jun 16 2012, 03:26 PM
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#10
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QUOTE(Rick Federer @ Jun 16 2012, 03:07 PM) A properly inflated tires on long journey may have it's pressure increase by 2 or 3psi at most and more or less stay that way for the rest of the journey. Nothing to worry about. |
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Jun 16 2012, 06:00 PM
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#11
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Jun 16 2012, 08:58 PM
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#12
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QUOTE(FenomX @ Jun 16 2012, 08:17 PM) Ans: Unplug the supercharge from the Audi and enjoy even more sluggishness issue. Audi is an innovation automotive company. Their quattro engine is well known because they use the turbo for pickup and later on use the supercharge for top speed. Did you know that the quattro engine in R8 consist of 2 turbos unit and 2 supercharger? Of course there will be no sluggish issue when you can have so much torque and HP that overcome the weight of your car in the very beginning. |
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Jun 16 2012, 09:21 PM
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#13
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QUOTE(FenomX @ Jun 16 2012, 09:07 PM) For street applications, blower sizing is as important a consideration as turbo sizing. A small blower works better at low speed and develops power more quickly than a large one. A large blower is great for top end power, but isn't as well suited to lower rpm operation because of its greater power burden on the engine. AFAIK, at low engine rpm, there aren't enough exhaust gas energy to work the turbo charger so typically, turbo charger work at higher rpm or later stage of the power band or when car already moving at higher speed.One of the most important advantages of supercharging street engines is that it can transform a relatively stock motor into a real performer without a lot of expensive modifications. Supercharging can be a straight bolt-on installation, and it works well with stock heads, cams and pistons. What's more, it delivers better low speed throttle response and torque than a naturally aspirated engine with a big carburetor, big valves, high compression and "hot" cam. Dyno tests have shown that a blower can be much more "streetable" than a naturally aspirated engine that's been built up to deliver an equivalent level of power. A blown engine is more streetable because it performs better at low rpms. A blower kit may cost several hundred dollars more to install than what it would take in equivalent engine modifications to obtain the same level of performance with a bigger carburetor or throttle body, hotter cam and modified heads. But the blown engine will deliver about 10% more power and torque in the lower speed ranges where it does the most good on the street. Besides that, a blown street motor looks great. The ultimate in performance, of course, is achieved by building a motor specifically for the blower. Using a "blower" cam that optimizes the breathing characteristics of the blower can improve both low speed torque and high speed power. A long duration cam with a lot of overlap isn't good with a blower because the boost pressure goes in the intake valve and right out the exhaust port at low speed. What works best is a cam with little overlap, a lot of lift and duration but more lift and duration on the exhaust valves (since the blower does nothing to help evacuate the cylinders). With a turbocharged engine, more lift and duration is needed on the intake valve to prevent backpressure (created by the turbo) from backing up into the cylinder. One caution to keep in mind with any kind of forced induction system is compression. Because of the extra air and fuel that's rammed into the cylinders, detonation can become a problem if compression gets out of hand. Most blown engines work best with a static compression ratio of less than 8:1 (7:1 or 7.5: 1 is best). The lower the static compression ratio, the higher the boost pressure you can safely run with the blower and the lower the rpm range at which the blower can develop peak torque. The typical boost provided by either a turbocharger or a supercharger is 6 to 8 pounds per square inch (psi). Since normal atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi at sea level, you can see that you are getting about 50-percent more air into the engine. Therefore, you would expect to get 50-percent more power. It's not perfectly efficient, though, so you might get a 30-percent to 40-percent improvement instead. The key difference between a turbocharger and a supercharger is its power supply. Something has to supply the power to run the air compressor. In a supercharger, there is a belt that connects directly to the engine. It gets its power the same way that the water pump or alternator does. A turbocharger, on the other hand, gets its power from the exhaust stream. The exhaust runs through a turbine, which in turn spins the compressor There are tradeoffs in both systems. In theory, a turbocharger is more efficient because it is using the "wasted" energy in the exhaust stream for its power source. On the other hand, a turbocharger causes some amount of back pressure in the exhaust system and tends to provide less boost until the engine is running at higher RPMs. Superchargers are easier to install but tend to be more expensive. Edit: Source @ Schmidt, Third year engineering student in Oxford Brookes University. On the other hand, supercharge typically work at lower engine rpm aka, car moving from standstill or initial pickup. This is contrary to what you said earlier "turbo for pickup and later on use the supercharge for top speed" |
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Jun 18 2012, 02:41 PM
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#14
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QUOTE(Blizzard12 @ Jun 18 2012, 02:27 PM) Waah..why my 1st svc cost me rm221.30?? Using fully syn shell 5W 40? Is dat normal? Coz I also didnt choose d engine oil.. I don't know what sort of engine you people are using but the Bold CFE manual (page 127) CLEARLY said you must not use 5w40. Or may be nowadays nobody bother to read manual anymore, not even SC. |
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Jun 18 2012, 04:45 PM
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#15
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Jun 18 2012, 04:48 PM
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#16
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Jun 18 2012, 05:25 PM
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#17
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QUOTE(kiapreve @ Jun 18 2012, 05:18 PM) Currently using Syntium 1000 SM 15W-50, feel that the car still heavy. The best in term of protection and fuel economy is 10W30. Period.May be going to change to SYNTIUM 800 SM 10W-40 this coming 5K services to how good is the car performance. I remember, someone told me that SYNTIUM 800 SM 10W-40 [COLOR=red] would be better than 1000 SM 15W-50[COLOR=red] in terms of performance and fuel efficiency. 10w40 give you similar protection but poorer fuel economy. 15W50 even worst fuel economy. Learn to read and understand the number because it already telling you a lot without even having to try them out. |
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Jun 18 2012, 10:55 PM
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#18
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QUOTE(mat79 @ Jun 18 2012, 06:07 PM) About engine oil, iinm, prtn recommend 10w 30 mean that sae is atleast sae 30 rating. Whether 5w 30, 0w 30,it is the same sae 30. The diff is the winter grade. That why its call multigrade oil. |
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Jun 18 2012, 11:31 PM
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#19
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QUOTE(stargate8 @ Jun 18 2012, 11:13 PM) SL is older than SM... Generally speaking: SM is better for the environment. SL is better for the car. |
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Jun 18 2012, 11:32 PM
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#20
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QUOTE(Saya_Dhuang @ Jun 18 2012, 07:16 PM) Regarding this 5k or 10k, we really need to find someone who can truly show us the light at what mileage should we have our next service. IMO, it really depend on the car usage itself like what has been stated in the service booklet. If you're an everyday driving your car 60-70km to work, I believe u should fall to "Severe Driving Service Schedule" and vice versa. My 1k Service Advisor told me that BTW. Smooth driving 60-70km a day is NOT considered "Severe". Stuck in traffic jam is called "Severe". |
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