OKLY's brief review of the Autocraft Digital Engine Optimizer (DEO-1000):

So I've finally gotten my Autocraft Digital Engine Optimizer from EA Autoworks for my MyVi 1.5 AT. I was actually amazed by this product ever since I first came across the Siecle Map System 314. This Autocraft DEO has the exact same concept, just with better looking controls (which is a major plus since you can display it without feeling ashamed). Also, this is not at all a throttle or AT controller despite how the control unit/module resembles one.



No the DEO is not a piggyback like an e-manage but it also acts like a piggyback in another way. It is connected to the MAP/MAF sensor and with the available preset tuning, it can alter the sensor's reading and the information will feed back to the ECU. In other words, it is actually feeding the ECU with information by altering the AF ratio based on the available presets.



For our MyVi, we can use up to 9 eco steps and 4 power steps along with a bypass mode if you don't want to alter the sensor's reading. The eco mode for me was great as it allows a smoother gear change and acceleration while giving you better fuel efficiency. I would highly recommend the eco mode for daily driving and highway cruising. When you need the extra push, change to the power mode and you'll feel a more aggressive gear change, the gear will be pulled to a higher rev before shifting so this mode will be the best for a more aspirated drive or when you need the extra push while going uphill.

The above comments are solely based on my observations (and from what I understand) but a few other early users and testers have all given thumbs up for this product so I'm sure I'm not the only user feeling the benefits of this product.

Priced at RM8xx, this product does wonders. Period.

P/S: If you want to know the exact pricing, please don't PM me, instead kindly contact EA Autoworks as I'm not affiliated to them in any manner, just sharing one of the many good products that they carry. Photos courtesy of EA Autoworks.


This post has been edited by OKLY: Jun 26 2012, 09:17 PM

Resetting the ECU will make the ECU to not have any stored settings so it'll allow the ECU to relearn the driver's driving style etc.

So far I've not heard of any remaps available for our stock ECU.

No difference installing it now or later, get it done as soon as possible.

Usually the sticker states mileage or date (whichever comes first).

Last I can recall, when I test drove a Saga FLX it needed to step more than ours to brake so it's just a matter of time when you get used to it. If you want more confidence in your brakes, then the only way is to change to performance brake pads first and see if you're happy with it or not.

Best for comfort should be at 32 for the stock 175/65/R14.

H11 for headlamps and fog lamps. Usual T10 for parking lights.

Since you mentioned RM2,000 salary, assuming this is after deductions of your EPF and so on, it's still quite tight.

If you will be taking the auto SE (metallic) model which is about RM56,500. Minimum of 10% D/P will require you to pay RM5650 and the remaining balance is at RM50,850.

For easier calculation to give you a rough idea, let's just put the interest rate at 3%. With your stated max budget at RM600 per month to repay your loan, you will still have to take at least 9 years of loan, this way your monthly repayment is at about RM598 but still this isn't a wise choice like the rest said.

P/S: Of course the longer your loan period, the interest rate is different but still I believe you will have to fall in the 7-9 years loan period, too long and paying too much interest to the bank already. Not to forget, every year you will have to pay for the insurance and also your scheduled car maintenance plus if there are any other emergency repairs that come along the way.


This post has been edited by OKLY: Aug 24 2012, 12:47 PM

Workmanship is subjective but I trust EA Autoworks and their Mythelogy LCP.



They open until 8.00pm tonight but since it's a sudden visit, I'd suggest you contact them first before dropping by just in case their workshop is packed and also on stock status because the stocks are very limited.


This post has been edited by OKLY: Aug 24 2012, 04:08 PM

You'll feel your pedal lighter as a result of changing the stock pulley for a lightened one. Worth or not your call, if you'll keeping the car for a while more then should be ok.

Since pedal will be lighter meaning you don't need to step as hard as before to achieve back the same acceleration/speed. So in other words, if you still maintain back like how you are driving now, after you change to LCP you should see better fuel efficiency as well.

RM550 if I'm not mistaken.

Not too sure about Works but I think some went for Redline, have not heard many reviews from them though. Mythelogy on the other hand is quite commonly used by us K3-VE and 3SZ-VE along with the Campro owners and so far so good with positive reviews.

The SX model as in manual right? I assume when you say deduct everything else, this should include your living expenses like rental, food and so on so let's work with the remaining RM1,300 you have.

The SX model in metallic is RM44,412 but let's just round it to RM44,450 for easier calculations. RM5,000 D/P would mean that the remaining balance to be paid for the car is RM39,450.

5 years loan would usually have an interest rate of about 3% so your loan amount should be about RM45367.50 but how about you put in slightly more D/P in the start to round off your loan amount to RM45,000. With a loan amount of RM45,000 over a period of 5 years, your monthly repayment should be at RM750 which means you should still have a balance of RM550 to put in your savings every month.

You can still consider the 1.5 but that would mean less savings every month. It's up to you to decide on how much you want to put in your savings each month. Of course the more savings the better because you'll need to prepare to fork out on car maintenance (especially those emergency ones), car insurance and so on.

If black does not suit your preference then I think something like gunmetal or similar would look good in my opinion.

I assume the gold you're talking about is something like gunmetal/bronze color so should be fine. Anyway, before you purchase the rims, you can always request them to put the rims next to your tires to make it look as if it's already fitted on your tires and you can have a rough idea on how it'll look like.

Definitely not worth it unless your original rims were stolen or damaged. The original rims are tough to withstand pressure/shock and so on, so if you're planning to trade your original rims for another 14", I'd say don't bother since changing back to 14" does not improve handling etc. Change only when your original rims are not usable or when you're planning to upsize.

IMP rotors should be more than enough. Performance pads can go for either IMP Platinum or RapidStop 550c.

Then you'll need to take it to trusted shops, good workmanship shouldn't cause any problems.

For the original stock tire size, yes follow the recommended pressure at the door.

The LED fog lights.

If you're sticking to the original 14" rims then yes go for 185/60, should have some difference over the stock 175. Otherwise, upsize it to 15" and get 195 series to get more improvements.