QUOTE(klate @ Aug 7 2012, 03:24 PM)
TQVM, bro.. V1 Proton Exora Bold Owners and Fans Thread, Calling all owner and future one...
V1 Proton Exora Bold Owners and Fans Thread, Calling all owner and future one...
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Aug 7 2012, 04:09 PM
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#61
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0 posts Joined: May 2012 |
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Aug 7 2012, 08:07 PM
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#62
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QUOTE(leongsem @ Aug 7 2012, 04:46 PM) Bro leongsem & dickong, fren sent this to me, he said this is the latest & already executed..Now they fixed these speed trap version as well.. Hmm.. u guys know la, hard to keep our EB in legal speed This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Aug 7 2012, 10:08 PM Attached thumbnail(s) |
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Aug 13 2012, 03:10 PM
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#63
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QUOTE(klate @ Aug 13 2012, 12:31 PM) I think it is not so effective and a waste if you change the oil immediately. The idea to change at 1k is to get rid of the loose sludge trap in the oil and filter but if you do it immediately it has no chance to catch that thing. Agree to ur comment on this. The main purpose for 1k mileage service is to avoid any metal sludge from the "virginengine" of getting into the piston ring which can cause scratches & damage done can be serious. |
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Aug 13 2012, 03:24 PM
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#64
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QUOTE(akchang @ Aug 13 2012, 01:48 PM) hey EB owners, Interesting!! Forgot abt doing this.. Now, I remembered doing the 5 point grounding on my ex older car (toyota seg)Yesterday my dad and i did some DIY grounding for my EB. Here's what i noticed after the grounding: 1. felt better response when pressing the gas 2. During cold start did not hear the "craakkk" sound when starting the engine (still need to observe more on this) 3. Usually whenever i start the engine the fuel indicator will drop at least 6-8km then the km will slowly climb back up. Now it just stay at what it suppose to indicate the last km. (need to observe more) Let me know others had installed grounding and tell me your experience. years back.. Done on DIY also, using flexible cable for welding & cable lug bought from electrical contractor shop. Observation:- 1) Smoother acceleration 2) Radio - clarity & radio reception also improved 3) Battery last longer - might differ from car to car akchang bro, do keep us update if this benefit our EB.. This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Aug 13 2012, 03:57 PM |
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Aug 25 2012, 09:16 AM
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#65
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QUOTE(2die4 @ Aug 22 2012, 09:11 AM) Just got the problem from my EB after 12k: 2die4 dude, Sorry to know that yr EB are having such a problem.. Mine is also having the same symptom as yours for #1 & #2.1. Engine mati during idling... (with aircond on) 2. Engine feels want to mati / jerking... especially on traffic jam... (stop and go) 3. Sometimes need to crank longger / need to press gas padel during cold start. 4. Unable to open the Fuel Cover (betul ker??).... Need to cungkil the fuel door. Lastly need to send to SC for checking all those problem... Is is Mutiara Damansara SC ok... Coz that the nearest Big SC at my area Sungai Buloh... My OCV valve already changed twice and my CFE is the 1st batch (January batch). Mileage juz passed 9k.. After the second OCV changed, my EB was running fine for about 1.5k km mileage, then the "engine mati" symptom came back once a while... Fortunately, akchang dude reminds me on the grounding project which I had done on my ex Toyota SEG years back.. Now, I had it DIY on my CFE for 2 weeks already.. As usual, I did 5 important points grounding, which consists :- *2 points on the body - (important coz proton only did 1 grounding, its mounted to the body, in between the body & ground wire, there's paint, so i don't know how good the existing grounding are.) *1 point to the alternator - (important, coz alternator is a generator which generate current to the battery.) *1 point to the engine - (important, whole engine is sitting on the rubber engine mounting & high current runs to the spark plugs, so, I dun know how good is the grounding there also) *1 point on the gearbox - (in between gearbox and the engine, there's a gasket, we dun know how good also) This is my 2 weeks findings:- 1) Smoother engine - although slight jerking is still there, but has improved. It could be the Punch CVT gearbox character is like that.. 2) So far no engine stalls - could be too early to confirm this, need more time to test. 3) Air-con fan - can feel the efficiency of the fan has improved - slight improvement. 4) Radio reception - slight improved 5) Headlamp light - slight brightness improved 6) Battery - my ex ride T.SEG battery has longer lifespan, although sound system been upgrade with amplifiers, so not sure about our EB.. This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Aug 25 2012, 09:54 AM |
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Aug 25 2012, 06:05 PM
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#66
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QUOTE(vinorgouki @ Aug 25 2012, 01:30 PM) ur cable long enough? all point direct link to battery? Guys, hope this picture can help those who are doing grounding for the first time.. virnorgouki dude, the cable that Ifor the engine, which part u screw bro? and the gearbox very hot or not? my wire screw very near to gear box. bought is not long enough, but I took the longest one to jumper from gearbox to alternator.. I took approx. 1.5 hour to complete this project the existing negative cable lug can go in.. My next project will be fixing up a voltage stablilizer, after I come back from Taiwan next week... Happy DIY.. This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Aug 25 2012, 06:06 PM Attached thumbnail(s) |
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Aug 25 2012, 07:16 PM
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#67
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Aug 28 2012, 02:22 AM
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#68
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QUOTE(2die4 @ Aug 27 2012, 09:25 AM) thank bro... will try to grounding based on ur setup... 2die4 bro, as u can c frm the attached photo, all the points are frm battery, execpt thr alternator ( hence; frm batt to gearbox point n then frm the same point to the alternator). just need to ask... all your grounding connected to battery... means that: 1. battery to body 2. battery to alternator 3. battery to engine 4. battery to gearbox akchang, thx, but, really i can't thank you enough for reminding us abt the grounding project.. Yuupe, i do think u shouldn't forget abt one important point there, 'the alternator'. This project is so cheap n so worth of trying out.. I bought the wires with printed HKS on it only cost RM12 bucks !! So guys, happy DIY! Dun forget to feedback if there's any new findings |
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Aug 29 2012, 02:59 AM
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#69
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QUOTE(klate @ Aug 28 2012, 11:00 AM) So you continue to have a much better feel with those grounding works? bro klate, honestly i dun know if this is what proton has overlook on these.. But if u hv yr Toyota Unser grounding done like this, u will also enjoy the different.. Could it Proton overlooked the good grounding design that lead to those "remeh temeh" problem?. My evaluation done is base on the past 2 weeks which was honestly written to u guys & on the third week, my EB is in KL & I'm still in Taipei enjoying the food n scenery 2die4 dude, frankly i dun know if proton kacau or not, if they kacau i also will not remove it, coz this r arguable, its not for any high performance racing, but to help stablilizing the overall circuitry performance.. |
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Aug 30 2012, 12:26 AM
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#70
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QUOTE(Pin Jun @ Aug 26 2012, 09:16 PM) I am no good in doing DIY. Any shop that can do this for my EB? How much will it cost? bro, last time my fren fixed up his old cd player with amp is to another car charges is around RM90 ~ 100, so for this simple one i think sud b around RM20 ~ 50 for workmanship..Please do share the finding after this.. eager to see the result... TQ Guys, the VS already cost around RM90 (if u know the guy well, might be more cheaper), so, RM120 for the two items r quite resonable.. This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Aug 30 2012, 08:45 AM |
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Aug 31 2012, 10:01 AM
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#71
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QUOTE(vinorgouki @ Aug 30 2012, 09:52 AM) for me, i think install grounding cable only is enough already coz its cheap. to buy a vs need another rm100+- bro, tq for yr feedback. u will observed the radio clarity when u balik kampung, where the radio station r further away frm town after one week installed the grounding cable. what i can comfirm is my car feel very very light. radiator fan seems not very loud already. for the radio receiving, headlight brightness i cannot comfirm coz i cannot see too much difference. or maybe its jz a slightly better, on feeling maybe? hehe... oh ya, how do u guys think abut the aftermarket air filter? currently im ordered redline drop in air filter, its a dry cotton filter and no nd reoil. but im confusing now, i think that high flow filter will give better airflow but less filtering on dust. the oem paper filter should be better on filtering. so hows u guys opinion? change or not? i scare my engine get dirty. And rgding the filter, i do not see why we need to install other filters or some other aftermarket items, coz our EB filter air intake mouth already facing towards the front, hence, the air will rush into the air intake system when we accelerating, isn't tat enough? Juz my opinion, coz i think mendling with the air system will void the warranty, which i think its not worth it.. |
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Aug 31 2012, 10:43 AM
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#72
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QUOTE(jemmi @ Aug 31 2012, 10:17 AM) My previous experienced used aftermarket drop-in air filter like K&N & etc not void warranty but make sure you replace back the normal/oem when send for service coz they will clean it with air gun. Aftermarket washable air filter will damage if clean by air gun. Hmm, like tat, my opinion is this is troublesome.. moreover we also dun know how good it filter out the dust.. Anyone try this out?? Can share??Btw, bro virnougouki, i think it is necessary to fix up the VS coz, in normal condition, our car operating voltage voltage varies frm 12 ~ 15v. If VS been installed it will always maintain the voltage to 12v. When accelerate, the most also around 12 point something.. |
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Sep 11 2012, 10:35 AM
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#73
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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Sep 11 2012, 06:44 AM) Yes, diesel engine last longer. And diesel engine are harsher on engine oil than gasoline engine. If Mineral oil can withstand turbo charged diesel engine, then it should be a piece of cake working in normal gasoline engine. And like I say, I have never seen engine oil related problem with Mineral My D4D 2.5 hilux still using mineral engine oil. Changed oil interval every 8~9k KM after the warranty period of 100k km. Now the mileage reads over 300k km liao.. The engine efficiency still maintained, green engine - till now no black smoke, vehicle used daily about 150~200k KM perday.. Very reliable monster... |
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Sep 11 2012, 10:57 AM
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#74
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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Sep 11 2012, 10:38 AM) That is our experience as well. As long as you use a good quality Mineral oil like the Delo 400, there is nothing to worry and we see absolutely no need for Fully Synthetic because like I said, we have NEVER encountered any engine oil related problem. This is why I used mineral for my CFE also.. No need to waste $$ at this moment for something that can do the same job.. With such high demand & expectation for performance engine nowadays, the engine oil manufacturer are also not far from achieving to the demand.. |
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Sep 11 2012, 02:59 PM
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#75
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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Sep 11 2012, 12:34 PM) With no proper maintenance, many thing will break down, not just the turbo. Few general advise, nothing specific, on turbo use: 1. If possible, after a long hard run, let engine cool down a 1 to 3 minutes before switching off. 2. Use good quality engine oil. Mineral is fine and I use them. Just don't use fake or Cap Ayam brand. 3. Clean air filter. 4. Stick to manufacturer's Oil Change Interval. 5. Use only original engine oil filter. 6. Use good quality coolant, do not pour city water, for best result use drinking water for yr radiator. Do that and you should have no problem with turbo charger for at least 10 years. |
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Sep 11 2012, 10:02 PM
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#76
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QUOTE(vinorgouki @ Sep 11 2012, 03:36 PM) for who bought the cheap hks grounding cable check this out, i got these pictures from another forum. I did bought the HKS cheap grounding cable RM12 bucks per set only. The different I found was, the cheaper ones has lesser strain of wire, while the much expensive ones have more strains. Before DIY, I try pulling the cable lug out, just to test how strong the cable lug attached to the cable. So, I found two of them came out easily.. Not happy with that, I decided to solder all of them. I did not encounter such a "stone powder wire" shown here.. If it is, then I would not able to solder it..inside is stone powder, lol. ![]() ![]() Pity the poor guy who got cheated |
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Sep 12 2012, 10:47 AM
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#77
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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Sep 11 2012, 10:38 AM) That is our experience as well. As long as you use a good quality Mineral oil like the Delo 400, there is nothing to worry and we see absolutely no need for Fully Synthetic because like I said, we have NEVER encountered any engine oil related problem. Never use Delo 400 before, how much is it?? Both my D4D turbo diesel is using Castrol mineral oil & the other two petrol driven vehicle also high usage (120~160KM use daily) are using Eneos Mineral oil.. Only my EB CFE is petronas mineral.. |
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Sep 12 2012, 11:16 AM
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#78
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QUOTE(jemmi @ Sep 12 2012, 11:11 AM) In my oppinion, better just buy medium size good welding/power cable & solder the lug nut yourself. Normally good cable price RM5/6 per meter only. Fake/cheap power cable normally contain 70-80% aluminium & only 20-30% copper. Agree with u bro, thks.. now I intend to do grounding on all my vehicle.. Added on September 12, 2012, 11:21 am QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Sep 12 2012, 11:14 AM) Get the 18 liter bucket. Should be less than RM200. Castrol feels better initially few thousand km but Delo seems to be more long lasting and overall gives better fuel consumption. So, do Delo has the application for the diesel as well ?? Any contact that u can share?? Would like to try out.. This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Sep 12 2012, 11:22 AM |
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Sep 12 2012, 12:25 PM
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#79
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QUOTE(Optiplex330 @ Sep 12 2012, 11:40 AM) Delo 400 15W40 is primarily for diesel engine. And AFAIK, one of the earliest to fulfill the Japanese JASO DH-1 standard for Japanese diesel engine. Thx dude, appreciate yr help.. Very true abt the Castrol performance drop after few thousand km.. I wouldn't think twice about trying Delo due to this. It is also API SL rated for gasoline engine. The only reservation I have for gasoline engine is the higher zinc that may shorten gasoline engine's catalytic convertor. Other than that, should be no problem. You can contact Caltex to find who are your local area dealer. Get the 18 liter for cost saving. |
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Sep 21 2012, 12:13 PM
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#80
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QUOTE(jinggo80 @ Sep 21 2012, 11:54 AM) Bro you hit the break whenever you bump into pothole ke?? bit confuse how in the world your disc break easily bengkok ma?? Be 'man-man' with your EB ma....eheheh As far as I know, my friend kena before on his toyota, normally, after a hard drive & hard braking, soon as u reach home, while the disc is still hot, u wash ur car.. Water flush directly to the rim & disc..Added on September 21, 2012, 12:19 pm QUOTE(pokdengs @ Sep 19 2012, 01:37 PM) According to the SC, the fan will turn on if the temp rises to a certain level.. To me whether the fan turn or not, I'm not bother with that, fan triggers to turn when the system call for.. As long as it served for the purpose & protect our engine, thats the main point.. Frankly I'm kinda like this system! Dunno whether the heat of the turbo unit will be reflected at the temp meter but for sure I once sakit jari when opening the hood immediately after stopping coz the metal thingy to prop up the hood is damn hot... BTW, after almost 6 weeks of installing the grounding, my EB haven't had and engine die off yet till now.. But jerking is still there.. This post has been edited by Turbocrazy: Sep 21 2012, 12:24 PM |
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