a few things to check (if you know where to go and do it for your camera). i am using an E-P3 so the options and ways/places to find it might be slightly different.

1. where is the focus point when u took that pic ? auto, center, left, right, etc ?
2. are you using digital zoom (from the EXIF data is says "2x"). that reduces resolution of an image ... if i'm not mistaken
3. which stabilization mode was set, if any

one thing to note, it might be sometimes too easy to have "modified" some settings in the P,A,S,M modes (at least on EP3 bcos of the rotating dial thingy).. so double check on the super control panel in each mode u r taking to see if those settings are Default or not 1st. if you want to make sure mode if back to default camera settings, can do that thru the MENU option.

for iAuto, SCN, ARt Filter specific dial modes, i read in manual it says will be always defaulted once switch away and to the mode again.

---

Added on May 23, 2012, 10:30 ami asked Boeing Camera (Empire, Subang) casually about the 20mm 1.7 last week. if not mistaken RM1400 (cash or ccard same). you may want to enquire from their KL shops as well .. may be slightly cheaper sometimes.

after some tests i bought the Summilux instead


This post has been edited by yangkuo: May 23 2012, 10:48 AM

i won't consider their prices the lowest but usually most items within reasonable range.

but for sure (for me) they are good for always having ready stock and their friendly, direct and helpful attitude.

DG Summi 25mm was 2.3k

btw, the price quoted for the 20mm 1.7 was 1.4k

hmm.. kinda weird to be deciding between 2 such different focal lengths. i assume you are bound by a certain budget in the decision? perhaps also let us know what range you prepared to spend so that the answers are more realistic.

anyway, the m.zuiko 17mm 2.8 is a good general lens. main thing going for it is price and compactness. one seller in Garage Sales letting go at RM450 ... good value (if condition of lens is good).

as for using Nikkor on m4/3 bodies (i have not tested EF lenses on m4/3)... here's a summary :-

- adapters mostly acts as physical mount so there is no electronic contact between the lens and camera after mounting.
- features like AF, auto aperture control is not available.
- you can only set the aperture if the lens has an aperture ring
- there are some adapters claiming to have circuitry to control the aperture of G lens (which does not have aperture rings)
- focusing is manual and although manageable might feel a bit inconvenient if you are used to AF only usage. have to zoom the Live View for more precise focusing especially if you are snapping at large aperture
- you can practically only use A and M mode


btw, a 50mm is effectively giving u a 100mm view ... and doing manual focusing handheld thru the Live View without stable support like tripod (where the display is zoomed 5-14x to assist more precise focus) ... err ... can be a challenge


This post has been edited by yangkuo: May 24 2012, 09:19 AM

speaking of that, so far only certain M mount lens i have feels more natural when used on m4/3. and that's also bcos of zone focusing *hehe*

if olympus bodies had the feature to half press shutter to get out of the zoomed-in manual focus assist "mode" ... that would help immensely already.


This post has been edited by yangkuo: May 24 2012, 09:44 AM

you'll need to buy the appropriate mount adapter for whichever type of lens mount you want to attach to m4/3.

eg. to use OM lens, u need a OM -> m/43 adapter, to use a 4/3 lens u need a 4/3 -> m4/3 adapter, etc


but beware not all lenses can be or are safe to be mounted even if the the mount type adapter is available.

some features of will also be unavailable (usually) eg. auto focus, auto aperture

i would suggest you research on the particular lenses u interested to use on GX1 1st... then see if others have reported good results on it.


This post has been edited by yangkuo: May 24 2012, 01:24 PM

i don't know what is the average "street price" but i was told by a shop that the body only is going for RM3200.

i don't own and have not used a GX1 but the "Operating Instructions for advanced features - Digital Camera - Model No. DMC-GX1" indicates this on Page 115 :-

Set the mode dial to [M].

- Rotate the rear dial to set the aperture and shutter speed.
- It will switch between aperture setting operation and shutter speed setting operation every time the rear dial is pressed.

3.2k (yes, the same shop)

how much was the Gariz Soft Shutter button set ?

i believe you need Photoshop CS5 or above AND an updated Adobe Camera RAW plug-in version ( >= ver 6.6 ) to support that camera.

i am not 100% sure about how Lightroom works with RAW files (eg. does it rely on ACR plugin to read the files) ... but it seems Lightroom 4 is able to support much more cameras RAW format.

UPDATE: read online that Lightroom 3.6 and above already capable of processing GX1 RAW


This post has been edited by yangkuo: Jun 3 2012, 04:31 PM

corrections in bold

well, since you can state that you are using E-PL3 m43 camera you should also know that means the "direct" mount type is m43 (logical, no?)

so if you are looking for any wide angle lens (which can mount directly on your camera) ... look for m43 lenses with a focal length <= 17mm.

as for adapters for the 14-42 kit lens (or other similar diameter m.zuiko lens eg. 45mm) ... Olympus has a Tele, Wide & Fisheye converter addon (to be attached in front of lens).


i'm sure there are shops which will demonstrate with a demo unit (if not on your camera) if you ask them or show interest to buy. that's easier than just imagining things ... perhaps that's y u keep asking the same questions and feel like difficult to get what you want.


i have not seen any official Tele converter addon for 40-150mm m.zuiko . just to confirm, do you own the zuiko or m.zuiko 40-150mm ??

there is one tele-converter adapter for 40-150mm zuiko (not m.zuiko) .. which u mount at the rear of the lens (not in front) to extend the focal length.



This post has been edited by yangkuo: Jun 7 2012, 11:00 AM

first, you should differentiate what you are buying

a) lens
b) mount conversion adapter (to attach lens for other mounts type/brand onto your camera's mount format)
c) converter for tele, wide, macro (some converter is "extension tubes" attached at rear, some are add-on screw in front of lens)
d) UV, CPL, ND filter
e) other types of accessories

the factor of whether each of these type of things can "fit" for your camera is different. so for each type you should ask different question or look at different things when evaluating purchase. don't lump everything as one and expect an easy to understand answer if you do that.

anyway, i REPEAT last time about the lens ... you have a m4/3 camera ... so look or ask if a lens is for m4/3 mount. if yes, then can "fit" directly. else, you will need accessory (b).

see link below which is answer i posted earlier about (b) to kevin23 :-
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=ST&f...post&p=51633424

a word of advice though on attempting to use lens like Canon, Nikon, etc on m4/3 camera bodies... they will be all manual operations. unlike the 4/3->m4/3 which could still retain the auto functions.


as for ©, best is get official accessory ... best optimized results usually and guaranteed to work on the brand's designated lens. google or ask vendor specifically 1st bfor buying.

for filters (d), look at the diameter size eg. 40.5mm, 46mm, 52mm, etc ... once size correct can screw or mount on lens. but beware and research what filters is for what purpose and also if there's any disadvantage using them in combination with a particular camera/lens.



This post has been edited by yangkuo: Jun 7 2012, 02:18 PM

Raynox DCR-150 is a macro conversion lens, he's asking for a Tele-converter.

anyway Raynox makes Tele-converter addons too but i'm not sure whether the kit lens m.zuiko 14-42mm is compatible/supported. better to check the official product website, google around or ask sellers.

where was the focus point on that picture ? are you sure you got a successful AF lock (green rectangle) ? how far was it between camera and the subject ?

shutter lag could be a possibility but looking at this particular picture bcos the ant is moving vertically and you had a stopped down aperture as long as you got it to focus on the branch/trunk distance it should be quite acceptable. unless the trunk is no straight along the same plane but i doubt it's so.

few options to test :-
a. use the center focus point, half shutter press to AF on the trunk (make sure AF locks on correctly, not in front, not at the back) then wait for ant to be in frame, snap.
b. you could use MF and pre-focus then wait for the ant(s) in frame then snap.

the above assumes, you have chosen exposure which determined a (shutter speed) sufficient to freeze movement of the ant. if u used a flash might simplify this aspect of it ...

please also check whether you were too close for the lens (plus any convertors if u used them). according to olympus e-pl3 faq page, With the MCON-P01 attached, the minimum focusing distance of the lens becomes 24 cm. i dunno what is the min focus distance for kit and 40-150 m.zuiko without the addon.

Olympus m4/3 bodies have in-body image stabilization thus no IS on the lenses.

so if used on GX1 (which has no in-body IS) ... you basically don't have IS feature.


This post has been edited by yangkuo: Jun 10 2012, 10:48 PM

which set of photos or which review were you looking at ? the 12-50mm m.zuiko lens review (Dec 2011) pics looks mighty fine to me ...

btw, the pics were taken with E-P3 as E-M5 was not in the market at that point.


This post has been edited by yangkuo: Jun 13 2012, 12:41 PM

firstly, you said ALL of his pictures were like that .. which is why i found the remark astounding.

anyway i'm not sure if it's your expectations or other reasons .. the Hulu Langat pics which were actually taken with the 12-50mm lens looks fine taking into consideration the location (waterfall area).

not sure if you realized (or read the words in the article carefully) but a few pics were not taken with the 12-50mm lens and some were 100% crops which attempts to show how well (or otherwise) the details are captured. the body used was a E-P3.

all in all, i think for the focal length coverage and very decent macro mode ... the lens is a good value.