nk juge nanti2 ler. fokus kt ikan dulu.hehehe. ko ktne tuh?kampung ker?
aku baru sampai labuan ari nie tadi baru dapat call dari superior aku, kate dier kat platform crane rosak, so esok petang maybe kene balik KL balik haha
This post has been edited by LuQEE: Jun 2 2012, 06:38 PM
i got a question regarding O2 tank. if i use them to substitute air pump, using with those atomizer or diffuser, it will make sure the O2 in the water stays in a safe level right? it will help to over come those problems when there is blackout while ure out on holiday right? planning to convert my nitrogen tank into an O2 tank if its ok.
because i saw an arowana being transported here in the port including with its tank with O2 tank attached to it.. really big and fast bubbles going on inside that tank lol thinking using diffuser and accurate regulator to maintain it at 1bps per second la to stabilize it.
maybe i should reserch on the O2 grade first since aviation, medical & research grade oxygen is too pure O2, which may totally kill those bacteria inside the water and maybe other faunas too since it can lead to unhospitable environment and they cost more. maybe i'll go with those industrial grade O2 since they have the minimum amount of O2 with moisture and mix with other gases. even we also use them to breath.
Edit: this is for my fishes since i usually goes outstation and sometimes i dont comeback more than a week.
This post has been edited by LuQEE: Jun 3 2012, 03:13 PM
true, but some fish cant survive that long with just gulping and they will end up dead. but from what ive read
QUOTE(Adamantis/William)
With air pumps you put in 79% nitrogen gas and just 21% oxygen. With 100% oxygen, you'll just have to use a few bubbles per second to get the same result. The gas in the reactor gets totally dissolved in the water.
so im planning to do this as a backup plan if anything goes awry with my current plan. Already in the process of making electrical auto waterchange/refill system. algae is not an issue, since its a part of aquascaping hobby. just a bit *sigh* when trying to clean them though
done some reading before, heard that, if pure oxy is used in deeper recommended depths, those gasses are much more compressed and everytime we take a gulp of air, the amount will be double or quadrupple than normal. so it will be dangerous for divers. but in theory, if pure o2 is used in aquarium, the gasses will eventually evaporated in the air due to the air is less saturated than the water and surface agitation.
gah~
This post has been edited by LuQEE: Jun 3 2012, 07:22 PM
so far, java moss seems growing uncontrobably inside my tank, flame is growing too and Süßwassertang, well most of them melted(maybe previous tank used chiller) but some still survives and growing slowly tank: 29-31C, no fert used except fish poo and left-over dead fish & shrimp pieces.
QUOTE(kurangak @ Jun 3 2012, 08:30 PM)
i recommend you read more on hyperoxia and oxygen toxicity... or better, u go n ask those ppl that do arowana transport, what gas they use, why they use it n benefits of using it... ALSO, o2 dosing may or may not increase your pH bro... since pH of water is mainly affected by carbonate, so i think, when concentration of o2 in your water increase, it will displace co2 in your water... (something about nerst equation, partial pressure bla3, gas law, ... i cant remember coz my chemistry is rusty beyond wd40 repair ) this is my theory based on my rusty chemistry knowledge... hope you can find out more (n probably experiment this) n share with us
just got back after lepak-ing with them, they said, industrial/welding grade o2 (99.5%) is ok, but using atomizer + reactor helps to conserve $$ alot, or else you'll be since for permanent setup, the usage of that thing will cause you to sell ure kidney definitely. for temporary its ok though(i cant any lfs in labuan only pet shop selling furry animals lol). not sure the price to refil the o2 though too . this setup suitable for big monster fish la.. if small small one like planted tank, battery operated air pump is just fine. they said you can just hook to a converter and attach car battery to the pump with a few tweaks and can last more than 2 weeks or maybe more depending on your pump power consumption. using top filter is a bonus. hurm.. maybe have to wait la to try this experiment.
QUOTE(sang gemok @ Jun 3 2012, 07:34 PM)
complicated sgt tuh.huhu anyway, gud luck bro.
no la bro.. kalau tau trick mesti senang punya, like shrimp keeping la.
suggestion: if you want to make green vines like in avatar and tarzan movie, make a 3 braided knot using 3 individual nylon rope and covered them with moss example how the rope will look like before covered in moss:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
just realized my java ferns now got baby ferns sticking under its leaves , a few cut-out crypt roots now are growing into baby crypt and my HC is now spreading on my new little tank
currently, im growing my HC immersed under direct sunlight using used soil. later when they are covering all the surface, will slowly submersed them up
im looking for giant/aggressive/massive/gigantic/retired siamese algae at the moment. since i found out they serve quite good as a hardcore scavenger + algae eater which is suitable inside my dangerous 2ft tank. and so far, those 3 ones i put(2 medium size aggresive ones and one gigantic) still survives, and they really get along just fine
hurm, wonder if i should add more ottos? already got 7 of them in my 1.5ft tank and their belly are constantly bulging.
for liquid ferts, do you guys dose them at day or night? morning or evening? noon or midnight? read that stuffs in saechem are advised to be dosed during off-photoperiod since the sunlight or any other white light will destroy or sumthing with one of their ingredients?
edit:- after reading a little,(plus logical reasoning) i think it is true, that it is better to dose ferts off photoperiod,
1. some nutrients may/may not photo-dissociatable/degradable...
2. plant generally grow faster during night, during day they mainly photosynthesize. nutrients is mainly for plants to grow not for photosynthesize... i shall do more reading....
u need to know that UV lights do break the bonds among those ingredients, and iron is amongst them. our artificial ligthing also does this, but in slower speed since the emitted UVs gave out by them are far much lesser than the original sun. so i guess, its better to dose them at night, or a few hours before photoperiod since thats the time the plants a re growing and they have the time to suck those ingredients before those ingredients are gone bby the UV rays and can be used later during photo-period.