1) if PNP no problem, if cut and tap wires. yes it will void..

2) Wait V12K and dares reply u..

3) better get all same type if not it will produce different grip and its dangerous as well..

4) battery weak? wat kind of sound whn u start?

Then irrelevant to throttle gua.

The compressor will always cause a nett power loss when it kicks in, doesn't matter you press the throttle or not. I heard ppl say our car will cut of the compressor during hard acceleration, dunno true anot 

oic..Good Luck on ur DIY~! 
1) most aftermarket ar cut & tap~!
3) as u like, go SC or normal also same..juz better get a nice, comfort and better grip tyre..
4) hmm... thn not sure maybe V12K, dares or david can provide u a clearer answer..
5) viva top speed manual 170-175, auto 165.. 110 not a big deal to viva...
yeah, but he didnt show us pic after done DIY~!

For No. 4, I get that problem occasionally, when I try and start a warm / hot engine. I doubt it's the spark plugs, maybe the fuel pump?

For No. 2, when the air cond compressor kicks in while driving slowly in first or second gear on the manual tranny, it gives one big jerk to the car. It's serious damn annoying, especially if it kicks in while you're accelerating from a traffic light. The effect is not so much noticeable in higher gears and at higher speeds. Solution, change to a not-so-powderful compressor?

will in the middle of the night thn u will c a leng gal weaving at u to ask "can i tumpang ur car?" lolz

btw yeah, drive safe and take cautions everytime~! Maintain ur car well to avoid and break down~!

3) try yokohama or michelin if not mistaken... dares, V12k and david answer this please... (coz i still using stock tyre)

5) heavy? urs is auto or manual? if auto will be a bit heavy... got gf beside still wana chase ppl... drive safe while u  had passengers~!

So the truth is, the AK GB has shorter ratio then?   
No idea about ducaro, have to ask tiremen in this thread.

Of course Viva can do 120. Whether can do it safely is another question. Maybe he don't have GF beside him 

Crank means the engine try to start, instead of a "tik, tik" sound, which means battery kong.

just use aircond lah bro.. haha.. is it a myth if we wind down the window while driving will save your fuel? myth rite. hahaha

Got TCSS tomorrow ah.. feel like coming but not sure if able to or not. Btw i love this saga. Really nice to drive. But i think i hv been travelling to much. Les than 2 week, 2000km d. Havent sent for 1st service( its 1000km right?) anything specific that i should know?

the compressor draws engine power, so you suffer from power loss. furthermore our compressor is freakin heavy. Someone here mentioned before our powderful compressor takes 33Nm of torque away when it kicks in.

As for the engine cannot start problem, no idea

anyone planing to add remote engine start to the car ?
sounds like a BONUS ...

For the hard start during warm eagine can cause by many fact:

1) Loose nozzle head.injector working over time at high spraying volume tend to weaken,unable to retract in time. Excess fuel wet spark plug result in hard crank

2) Our S4P uses independent coil for each sparkplug. Over time driing tend to heat up the coil, spark become weak as a result gotta hard crank

3) New/expired sparkplug gap too near/far apart, result in uneven sparks, especially during hot engine, gap effect become significant. If new sparkplug can loosen the iridium head, whereas for old sparkplug need to be tighten. My uncle's A31 cefiro uses his stock sparkplug for 12 years until the copper head can't be tighten anymore only he change.

4) Last but not least, hot air is bad for ignition. Noon time/after long distance, substatial hot air trapped in engine bay causes uneasy to burn the A/F mixture.

Hope this help. Justify before change anything suggested by the mech. Don't let those mech simply cut throat.

Done the maths, just feels very weird 
Because it auto stop pumping, and I'm scare of overflow it again...so not planning to keep pushing more petrol in.

yesterday was 1.3 CVT vs 2.5 CVT 
i was on my way home using Lekas highway, suddenly one Nissan Teana 250 cucuk me
i let him go in front me, then my turn to cucuk him... 1.3 cvt pick up quite impressive, can chase that Nissan quite easily
both speeding at 170 to 180 kmph 

Slowly, slowly....
Not neccesarily slow, I enter the turn with the feet on the throttle, lift-off or lightly braking right before the apex, then re-accelerating halfway through the apex. I gather I lose a lot of speed for that brief moment I let off the gas.
 
  Maybe dint notice him at all 
1.3 FLX can do at least 180km/h, as V12k has proven.

Haiz it seems many FLX has this problem, including mine. Last time, I can push the rubber in and close the door quickly and the rubber will stay inside.

Now that I have installed the OEM rubber at the door frame, I can't do that anymore. Have to use fingernails to push the rubber back inside.

Dyno run prove nothing about top speed, because some portion of engine power is use to overcome wind drag on road during high speed.

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Added on June 4, 2012, 1:29 pm

Engine life span will not harm so much by this driving, only ur own life span is greatly influenced.

I recommend that you visit COSE if you can, me plus another member in this thread has gotten the problem fixed there 

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Added on June 4, 2012, 1:37 pm

Last time I did ask them for fix. They applied some sort of liquid on the rubber (to soften it, I suppose) and that's it.

Two weeks later, guess what, rubber is sticking out the door again   

1.3 CVT
yours is auto transmission, mine is CVT, fuel saver and better efficiency 
soften it? then it will expand and become bigger, they should change to new rubber instead making it expand wider