no. The CVT jerks because it is a clutch based unit, not a torque converter unit. If you driven manual cars before, you should know how the car behaves when you press insufficient amount of throttle during moving.

+1 on V12k comment. I drive manual cars, and they all share the similar behaviour. High power vehicle is even more obvious. After gear engaged, if engine not received sufficient fuel to burn whilst cruising at low speed, wheels will kick back engine, as a result felt jerking in the car However, once u get used to it u know when to press the pedal & when not to, jerking can be reduced to minimal. Driven a few CVT GaGa before, they do felt like a manual car with only 1 gear + without clutch pedal kinda like CVT! Will never look back in conventional auto GB. There may be ways to improve it lar, as driven a Kemry 2.4 which doesn't have the jerking feeling like our Plotong. Hope Plotong will look into it, may be software issue Never get to test it on the Pervert though, as I whack the car 9 9 during test drive, very smooth acceleration(sprint to be exact ) & hard brakings for that whole 30 minutes!

Re-chk yr wiring,
Esp the point yu took the power feed from.
Probly not a suitable one?
Shld b fr source which is only ON when lights are ON.

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Added on May 28, 2012, 8:53 amps. Use a test lamp or multimeter to test source.

This post has been edited by zeone: May 28 2012, 08:53 AM

hello there guys. morning to you. i have a question. what is exactly the 2nd blinking of the fuel meter. is it the whole bar blinking?

good morning guys , i am so so so so so so so so so so sorry that i ffk you guys during saturday TT when i promise to come , i have some urgent last minute birthday celebration for a friend , i am so sorry

Hi & Good Morning 2yu2!!
Let's wait & hope some sifu can ans yr query. Me hv nvr driven my rides till fuel that low.
Me top up when down to 2 bars.
Alwaz play safe wan.

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Added on May 28, 2012, 9:12 amHi & Good Morning, Bro!
How's start of new week? Good?
Anything new...to share?

This post has been edited by zeone: May 28 2012, 09:12 AM

My colleague around my left and right absent today, feel very boring la, you guys please spam la, else i will bore until die leh...

Anyway, manual BLM will never feel smooth in slow speed, especially traffic jam and cruising @ 1st gear. Few reason contribute to this. 1st is power hungry compressor, this really drive me rage sometimes, when i just start to release the clutch, the compressor kickin, 'glok....', then my car is jerk like hell, have to quickly press the clutch and accelerate again. 2nd is the damn close ratio AK GB, torque is easy to transfer to wheel, however when torque suddenly sucked by compressor, wheels will kick back engine through GB, that why jerk again. 3rd, the damn over sensitive electronic throttle, u will never can control your engine speed @ 1.1-1.5k rpm, u can easily test out @ N, press throttle, the damn rpm either will never move or it will shoot up at least 1.7-2k rpm. If during slow speed fully disengaged the clutch, it will jerk like hell.

So my countermeasure about this:
1st case: Always open my aircon temp @ highest temp (lowest power), so the compressor kickin every 20-30s (depends on cabin temp), if feel hot, might just increase the fan blow speed.
2nd case: Curse and rage. Nola, once the car move (even 10km/h, i will shift to 2nd gear, so that the ratio is longer now, wheel kick back feeling will minimized.
3nd case: Curse and rage. Nola, no choice but have to control the clutch precise like robot. I think the clutch will wear faster if control like this way, have to always half disengaged.

So overall Saga with AK manual GB is damn in slow speed and.....

damn in high speed as well.

Dun scold me for starting today with all this shit, just sharing my thought.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: May 28 2012, 09:20 AM

anyone have the guy contact number who sell door rubber lining?

Re: response... Placebo! Big time! 3 year old car add ground cable to increase throttle response?! I'll be damn to buy a car!

Re: vacuum gauge, u did mentioned its a 3 wire setup. I'm guassing the rd wire is NOT ignition. setup shd be as below

+ve - ignition
-ve - ground
Extra cable - parking lamp

When u start your car, it shd be brightlight background. When front light activated, background light become dimmer, so it won't hurt your sight during night time.

Let it out, Bro!! Feels good after, rite?
Start of new week blues?
Not2worry...days will get better wan. Alwaz does...
Wish yu better days...

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Added on May 28, 2012, 9:36 amThere yu are, Bro kenjilew...
The sifu has spoken!!

This post has been edited by zeone: May 28 2012, 09:38 AM

It only apply on old car, new saga no matter u on headlamp or not, the meter panel light will not dimmer and remain constant leh.

What I meant was, Kenji installed an external vacuum gauge, wiring need to put to parking lamp to activate dim light. Safe to said, the extra parking lamp can be take off, so the light will not dim even front lamp activated. It served the purpose of dimmer only.

I belive his current setup as below

+ve - battery positive
-ve - ground
Extra cable - ignition

Therefore, even his car not start also got light. Not sure whether my guess correct.

You guys using what engine oil weight? 30? or 40?

30

30

Will not go back to anything higher than this, unless white smoke start to come out from exhaust.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: May 28 2012, 10:46 AM

Yup, very possible yr guess is correct, Bro!

Me hv no experience with 3-wire type of supp meters.
Those me connected b4 used 2 wires. Even ole type Smiths had juz 1 wire fr its meter lamp in own replaceable holder!
Need 2earth meter body ourselves!

I have been using 30 too for quite awhile now. If i change to 40 would the FC be affected much? I know the Fc will definitely go up but not sure how much.

I use 30 no noticeable improvement on FC, only acceleration definitely lighter only.

a bit lah

if you want figure then.... erm....

every 10 viscocity raises the FC by 10%...

Reco SAE grade in pre-Oct 2011 (IINM) user manual : 50
Reco grade in newer user manual = 30
Used by most SCs : 40

Conclusion?
IMO?
Depends on wat one prefers... Better FC, free-er reving engine, more protection, etc.

Generally Ok 2use SAE30 - 50...
All within officially suitable SAE requirements for Msian climate...finally it's up2User.

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Added on May 28, 2012, 11:00 amps. This SAE grade issue is similar to the perpetual discussion of whether to use Mineral, Semi-Synthetic or Fully-Synthetic Engine Oils...
If follow scheduled OCI, any of the above can be used. Boils down to basically to only affordability.

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Added on May 28, 2012, 11:12 am10%?
For FC of abt 10Km/L, that wld be only abt 1Km/L diff.
Yup, agreed. Juz a bit nia.

Using SAE 40 or even 50?
Worth it?
Mayb for better protection for moving engine parts?
YOU decide.

This post has been edited by zeone: May 28 2012, 11:12 AM