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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB V23 - Dead or Alive!

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davidke20
post May 28 2012, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(max_cjs0101 @ May 28 2012, 10:43 AM)
You guys using what engine oil weight? 30? or 40?
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ISWAGA 1.3M
Oil: Wulf 20-50 mineral
Price: RM38
FC: 14c/km

FIRA 1.6M
Oil: Splitfire 10-60 semi
Price: RM68
FC: 16c/km

FIRA 1.3 A/B
Oil: Wulf 15-40 mineral
Price: RM48
FC: 17c/km

MyBi 1.3A
Oil: Casstroll 10-30 mineral
Price: RM38
FC: 16c/km

BiBA 1.0M
Oil: Casstroll 10-30 mineral
Price: RM38
FC: 14c/km

GAGA 1.3M
Oil: Casstroll 15-40 semi
Price: RM79
FC: 18c/km shakehead.gif

Jen2 1.6A
Oil: Eneos 15-40 semi
Price: RM95
FC: 22c/km doh.gif

Some not my car, but I help the owner to menten them.
coolkwc
post May 28 2012, 11:37 AM

Fall in love with audio again.
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That MyBi and BiBA user quite 'kiam siap' leh, new car using mineral...
V12Kompressor
post May 28 2012, 11:38 AM

No carrots here
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ada money buy car no money maintain
zeone
post May 28 2012, 11:46 AM

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IINM there hv been mention, in other forums, of some well-known car SCs "officially" using Mineral EO during OCI of their cars (not Proton ones)....tongue.gif

Makes one wonder why?
When those SCs can make more profit out of using SS or even FS oils?

Kenot help feeling that wat is more important is NOT the type but the API classification of those oils.
Wat do yu guys think?

Frankly, me had used Mineral EOs for my earlier rides and they all lasted more than 200k Km w/o any overhaul needed... thumbup.gif
helldagger
post May 28 2012, 11:48 AM

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anyone here got the proton service centre phone number at bandar bukit puchong?
zeone
post May 28 2012, 11:51 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 28 2012, 11:38 AM)
ada money buy car no money maintain
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Hi Bro...
Long time No hear...Doing well? brows.gif

Re maintenance issue, it's up to the owner, rite?
Watever works 4him & makes him happy... icon_rolleyes.gif

Some ppl go to Starbucks for their cuppa and some go to kopitiam...as long as they enjoy... brows.gif
We find our own satisfaction & happiness in our lives, Bro...
iskazulka
post May 28 2012, 11:52 AM

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me GAGA FL had a very minor problem. the bootlid kenot stay open, tend to close. had to hold on to the lid using shoulder when want to put stuff inside. is it spring problem or something else. should i report it to the SC?
V12Kompressor
post May 28 2012, 11:56 AM

No carrots here
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From: Muddy Banks


long time no hear?

baru yesterday I posted me losing my kidding antenna...

hmm.gif
zeone
post May 28 2012, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ May 28 2012, 11:52 AM)
me GAGA FL had a very minor problem. the bootlid kenot stay open, tend to close. had to hold on to the lid using shoulder when want to put stuff inside. is it spring problem or something else. should i report it to the SC?
*
Hi & Welcome...

Probably the springs...
Very hard 2tell w/o looking at the bootlid & trying it out...sorry...

If still under warranty, pls do give the SC yr "headache".... tongue.gif


Added on May 28, 2012, 12:02 pm
QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 28 2012, 11:56 AM)
long time no hear?

baru yesterday I posted me losing my kidding antenna...

hmm.gif
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Sorry, Bro... sweat.gif
Pls let me re-phrase that...

Long time me no hear from you... tongue.gif
Btw stickers from yu are the BEST me ever had! Really great quality ones!! TQ!! thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by zeone: May 28 2012, 12:02 PM
iskazulka
post May 28 2012, 12:05 PM

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my friend said, try to adjust the springs first. if cannot, it's the spring problem. i already told the problem with the SC when i went for my third service last month, but need to set appointment on weekdays.
davidke20
post May 28 2012, 12:11 PM

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Err... I get the budget, I work around according to budget nia blink.gif as for myself... Never felt any difference between mineral/semi. Most of the time my own car change oil between 4k-6k trip regardless mineral/semi. Most significant is last time when my ISWAGA having fever, I fed the fella with Duckhams 40/40 laugh.gif the car immediately become SILENCE. FC menten arnd 400km/tank since it need extra strength to burn engine oil.

After overhaul, use another bottle of DUCKHAMS 20/50 to run in my first 1000km. Then change to 76 10-40 NASCAR. After that been using it all the while, oil+filter change every 3000km. Even oil that drained out still transparent dark brown. FC drastically improved to 600km/tank. Until 76 no longer supply in Boley land, my oil selection has been surrounding cheap/affordable and my engine wear & tear become more obvious. My current 1 full tank about 70 bucks , average FC around 14cents, translate as 450-550km/tank depends on traffic condition.

If I ever get a hold with 76 again, I will switch back to them for as long as they provide the orange bottled 76 NASCAR 10-40 engine oil.
lhwj
post May 28 2012, 12:17 PM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ May 28 2012, 09:16 AM)
My colleague around my left and right absent today, feel very boring la, you guys please spam la, else i will bore until die leh...

Anyway, manual BLM will never feel smooth in slow speed, especially traffic jam and cruising @ 1st gear. Few reason contribute to this. 1st is power hungry compressor, this really drive me rage sometimes, when i just start to release the clutch, the compressor kickin, 'glok....', then my car is jerk like hell, have to quickly press the clutch and accelerate again. 2nd is the damn close ratio AK GB, torque is easy to transfer to wheel, however when torque suddenly sucked by compressor, wheels will kick back engine through GB, that why jerk again. 3rd, the damn over sensitive electronic throttle, u will never can control your engine speed @ 1.1-1.5k rpm, u can easily test out @ N, press throttle, the damn rpm either will never move or it will shoot up at least 1.7-2k rpm. If during slow speed fully disengaged the clutch, it will jerk like hell.

So my countermeasure about this:
1st case: Always open my aircon temp @ highest temp (lowest power), so the compressor kickin every 20-30s (depends on cabin temp), if feel hot, might just increase the fan blow speed.
2nd case: Curse and rage. Nola, once the car move (even 10km/h, i will shift to 2nd gear, so that the ratio is longer now, wheel kick back feeling will minimized.
3nd case: Curse and rage. Nola, no choice but have to control the clutch precise like robot. I think the clutch will wear faster if control like this way, have to always half disengaged.

So overall Saga with AK manual GB is damn in slow speed and.....

damn in high speed as well. doh.gif

Dun scold me for starting today with all this shit, just sharing my thought.
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+1. Manual GAGA is a pain to drive in traffic, not because of the clutch but because of the above. dry.gif


zeone
post May 28 2012, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(iskazulka @ May 28 2012, 12:05 PM)
my friend said, try to adjust the springs first. if cannot, it's the spring problem. i already told the problem with the SC when i went for my third service last month, but need to set appointment on weekdays.
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Fyi me also having an FL 1.3.
However not hv any prob re opening the bootlid.
More of hard to close nia. Hv to use abit more effort.
So got used to it oledi.

Wish yu luck @appointment with SC! icon_rolleyes.gif


Added on May 28, 2012, 12:32 pm
QUOTE(lhwj @ May 28 2012, 12:17 PM)
+1. Manual GAGA is a pain to drive in traffic, not because of the clutch but because of the above. dry.gif
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Lucky me decided 2get an AT... brows.gif

And yup, traffic these days no joke wan.
Very stressful 2drive in city areas nowadays!! sweat.gif

This post has been edited by zeone: May 28 2012, 12:32 PM
kenjilew
post May 28 2012, 12:43 PM

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QUOTE(zeone @ May 28 2012, 08:52 AM)
Re-chk yr wiring,
Esp the point yu took the power feed from.
Probly not a suitable one?
Shld b fr source which is only ON when lights are ON. tongue.gif


Added on May 28, 2012, 8:53 amps. Use a test lamp or multimeter to test source.
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tapped the right wire... but funny think is... my gauge have 3 wires... black red orange... for what i know is... black = grounding red = 12v power source orange = ignition... if the wire follows the original wiring tapping the meter will light fully even the no ignition is turned on... but after i tapped orange to power source and red to ignition, it works normal other than having small little dimmed light all the time... so i think the meter not functioning well... no warranty but got it at cheap price... so there are now 2 solution for me which is make a switch for the meter or find another meter to change... sad.gif
zeone
post May 28 2012, 12:49 PM

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QUOTE(kenjilew @ May 28 2012, 12:43 PM)
tapped the right wire... but funny think is... my gauge have 3 wires... black red orange... for what i know is... black = grounding red = 12v power source orange = ignition... if the wire follows the original wiring tapping the meter will light fully even the no ignition is turned on... but after i tapped orange to power source and red to ignition, it works normal other than having small little dimmed light all the time... so i think the meter not functioning well... no warranty but got it at cheap price... so there are now 2 solution for me which is make a switch for the meter or find another meter to change... sad.gif
*
Did the meter come with Installation Instructions?

This post has been edited by zeone: May 28 2012, 12:58 PM
kenjilew
post May 28 2012, 12:53 PM

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QUOTE(zeone @ May 28 2012, 12:49 PM)
Did the meter come with Installation Instructions?
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the meter is old stock lai de... inside only got the metal thingy hose and the T-conncetor... and some screws... no installation instruction... even got also it doesn`t teach for vacuum meter one... sad.gif
zeone
post May 28 2012, 12:59 PM

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QUOTE(kenjilew @ May 28 2012, 12:53 PM)
the meter is old stock lai de... inside only got the metal thingy hose and the T-conncetor... and some screws... no installation instruction... even got also it doesn`t teach for vacuum meter one... sad.gif
*
Since no relevant instructions, mayb can try out Bro david's connection points?
For BLM/FL, no parking lamp fuse in cabin fusebox. So mayb tap fr h/lamp fuse in fusebox in eng compartment?
Juz a suggestion...
kenjilew
post May 28 2012, 01:01 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ May 28 2012, 09:28 AM)
Re: response... Placebo! Big time! 3 year old car add ground cable to increase throttle response?! I'll be damn to buy a car!

Re: vacuum gauge, u did mentioned its a 3 wire setup. I'm guassing the rd wire is NOT ignition. setup shd be as below

+ve - ignition
-ve - ground
Extra cable - parking lamp

When u start your car, it shd be brightlight background. When front light activated, background light become dimmer, so it won't hurt your sight during night time.
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dunno about the grounding cable la... that is just what i felt...

for the vacuum gauge, if according to your wire taping... the meter will have to light up 24/7 and just change the colour if i activate the front light... so cannot be right ?
lhwj
post May 28 2012, 01:03 PM

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QUOTE(zeone @ May 28 2012, 12:20 PM)

Added on May 28, 2012, 12:32 pm
Lucky me decided 2get an AT... brows.gif

And yup, traffic these days no joke wan.
Very stressful 2drive in city areas nowadays!!  sweat.gif
*
Still no regrets getting a manual though biggrin.gif Cos I don't get stuck in traffic often. I just wished though, they used Getrag from the beginning cry.gif

zeone
post May 28 2012, 01:11 PM

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QUOTE(kenjilew @ May 28 2012, 01:01 PM)
dunno about the grounding cable la... that is just what i felt...

for the vacuum gauge, if according to your wire taping... the meter will have to light up 24/7 and just change the colour if i activate the front light... so cannot be right ?
*
Bro david's wiring suggestion (if it works...me dunno...) appears 2b so ie daytime ON when ignition is ON but dims when car lights are ON.

May I suggest juz use 2 wires...RED & BLK only?
Connect the Red to car lights source eg H/Lamp fuse in Eng compartment and Blk to car body.
So whenever yu switch on the car lights, the meter wld light up too.
Good enuf, right?

Your decision...

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