actually if you compare forged and cast in the same shape of rim. forged is heavier , but forged rim can shave off "extra meat" during manufacturing process , but still provide certain level of strength. so known as light and strong, but expensive.

Cast fixable? After fix u think is still good?

do i need to pay for labour charge for 1st service???or just to pay the engine oil price???usually how much have to cost for first service??i come meet u guys today^^

Labor charge is free for the first 3 service i believe

can fix .. depends on the damage lo ..

CAST CHEAPER ..

FORGE much more expensive .. BOM! .. u change another rim wor .. u do the math lo ... i cheapskate ma

3.7KG ah bro?

no need to pening now... wait till my tyres botak sin...

Tiam lah sohigh!

i cannot afford ...
so i dare not ask for phone number

Labour charge is free for the first 3 services.

If you have the free service vouchers...no cost involved i guess.

If no, then if you are using synthetic oil, for eg, Petronas Syntium 1000 will cost RM185 for 4L pack + RM50 for 1L pack. So total cost for engine oil RM235. Oil filter about RM35 and oil plug washer abt RM2.

No need to add any other stuff...all those engine treatment and fuel treatment are useless and waste of $$$$.

Enjoy your servicing

Cheers.

www.pelanpelantunggu.my tis 1 also registered.

But www.dangugu.hk not interest with tat.

Thanks Guys^^ hope to see you guys tonight^^

why no car to try 2.5" 4~1 meh?

no car wanna try.

People happy (convinced) 4-2-1 is the best kua.

The 1.8 guys more kiasu.. wanna see actual Dyno chart instead of basing on buttdyno hehehehe

This post has been edited by MeToo: May 18 2012, 11:30 AM

this sat..you go test 4-1 and 4-2-1 2.5" on your wife's car lo...

buttdyno..the fatter your ass the faster it feels..
weight x acceleration x inertia

Diam la bodoh.... All go TT tonight!!!

Bodoh together...

Just to give a better understanding of the 2 processes.

In casting, the metal is heated into liquid form and is then poured into a mould. It is then left to cool and wahla, the finished product will be in the shape of the mould.

In forging, the metal is heated to an almost molten stage and is then beaten/rolled/dropped/pressed into the desired shape. This usually requires precision tools with high pressure to work the metal.

difference between the 2 is that usually forged metal is typically stronger due to the rearrangement of the molecules by working it, whereelse in casting, the grains are more granular but bears the risk of gaps or air pockets if the process is not done right.
Think of it where a cast product is like bread but a forged product is like a cookie (more dense).


After this material choice will play a major role as well. Choose a super hard material then it'll be brittle. Choose if less brittle metal, it'll be soft.

Pointsless.

To test 2.5" pipe for 1.8 engine u need to compare it with 2.0" to see the performance difference.

So I would have to test 5 types... 2.5 x 2, 2.0 x 2, and stock.

Stairz already tested 2.5x2, and stock for 1.8L engine.

Why do I have to impose on Frank to do double work again?

I will wait for Stairz to test the 2.0" next week, then compare the 2.5" v 2.0" result then I will test the 421/41 configuration to see which suits 1.8CVT more. So only 3 test. Effecient.

I suspect 2.0" would be better for CVT since auto generally needs more backpressure and hence smaller pipes compared to MT.

like how they make a sword?