Ya...Locktech user here. Got it in ALL my cars. Size 10 or 11 feet. It will occassional hit the top big toes especially if big feet with high toe shoes. Flat toes shoes or sandals, no issue. Thats why I'm wearing a Power Sport Shoe, RM70+ when driving at all times instead of my RM300-RM400 leather shoes. Initially like ZapDos mentioned, will hit, very uncomfortable but after a while, you stop noticing it, and then you will stop hitting it altogether. If small foot, no issue at, my wife or my mom never hit it. Rarely hitting it now, but practically have no issue with it.

No casanova here, but be a gentleman, chat here and there but no touching, no special attention (like being sticky to a girl, no girls like a man sticking to her like a glue), just act friendly but not intrusive, no prying into private matters unless you know her well.

Be attentive (ie, helping carrying things, drinks, being helpful but never look overly eager, expressing interest but never desperately interested and NO stalking). Stalking will ALWAYS scare away any potential.....victims.

You can joke but never ever assume you can go vulgar with her unless you know her very well and she knows you mean no harm, only joking. If unsure, play gentlemen, give advice but never looks like your teaching her...just suggestion to help out. Always acts like trying to help BUT hinting NOT EXPECTING any favor returned.....in another word, no ulterior motives when you're with her (somehow let her know that)...gentlemen ALWAYS attracts....boring does not tho....a fine line there.

Err...I also no good at that but THATS how I notice my friend doing it....and HE IS VERY POPULAR with girls...and best of all, he's a horseface, not handsome at all but joke a lot, friendly but extremely attentive and observant towards everyone especially girl and never touch or even try to touch them in anyway...believes me, the girls always comes back for more. And be generous when going out, don't kedekut but always knows your limit tho...girls likes generous men but no over spenders that can go broke anytime...

I tot someone say Preve below 2K rpm cannot move much??? That means pickup should only come after nearing mid range speed ie. 70-80 km/h onwards. Is that true? If it is, then in jam prone city road, preve mati liao, FC gonna go sky high, either that or let everyone jump queue in front of preve....

Thats why I say, if we try normal drive in FC concious way, everyone will jump queue in front of Preve. If in S mode, add 1K rpm, what happen to the FC....

In the world where everyday drivers are generally going for FC concious type of cars ie hybrid, city, vios all going towards green driving....what is Preve...add power, FC how ar...

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 10 2012, 10:57 AM

That means the CFE still has the critical weakness of earlier Campro engine, lack of low end torque no matter how much they improve on mid-end to high end. Its mid-end was already improve via IAFM before CFE comes in. CFE improves it way stronger BUT it did not address its critical low end traffic jam retarded weakness that that has proven to be a bane for everyday driver that try to save FC, seeing that the fuel ceiling price will not stay there forever. Global market are moving towards FC concious trend and yet the GLOBAL car proton make still does not address what the global market demand.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 10 2012, 11:11 AM

Like that as usual, wait for mid-life FL where most faults should be corrected and improve if ever think of replacing PE.

Haiz, my City reaching 7th year next year, in prime condition now with smooth silent engine and no fault with CVT. However its better to sell while its still going strong with higher value rather than later. Wonder what car to get at sub or 100K range? Insight, maybe?

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 10 2012, 11:21 AM

10K servicing does not touch air cond. So you should claim under warranty. If there is not enuf gas, at least they will check for leaks. At most you have to pay for the gas.

Personally, I would suggest dropping by outside aircond serciving shop, ask them to check if your air cond enuf gas or not. If not enuf, just pay to refill, cheap cheap only RM15 to RM30. If suspected leak, either pay a minimal amt (ask first) to check. If no leak, ok, if got leak, then apply leave go SC. Either that, or drive for sometime, if air cond not cold again, go to SC straight coz definitely leaking. Normally gas can last at least a year or 2 or maybe even 3 depending on usage.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 10 2012, 01:26 PM

CR-Z is practically a 2 seater car...only meant really for a car enthusiast, not everyday man...

I tot his college already shortage of fish....if introduce a sweet talking crocodile in the ponds, ikan bilis also he cannot get....

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 11 2012, 09:26 AM

Urmm...unless you're seating far away from the screen, having anything bigger than 21" is going to give you headache. Bigger for me is not necessary better. Of course I personally would hook up a pc with an LCD/LED TV 32" - 42" and use a wireless mouse and keyboard if I want a big screen...

Don't lar scare him till he really tot engine gonna kong out becoz using mineral lube. Using mineral lube WOULD NOT cause any damage to the engine. Just change it at next service interval to semi. What you might felt is decrease in performance, vibration, noise, increased FC, etc. Not as nice, power or any long term damage as long as you change your lube at the next 10K service (5K mileage) or 6 months whichever comes first.

After reading so many complaint, still bear bear install magnacrap....

Somemore kena 1 time Mach 5 liao, somemore this service did not ask for what lube SC use before doing servicing...only COSE garanteed using at least semi for standard service...other SC, have to ask wan...

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Added on May 21, 2012, 8:47 amIf your car is only 1.5 years and IF STILL within 50K mileage, why spend RM800+ to change alternator....that ITEM is also under warranty. Should have go to COSE and ask check ECU, etc for error codes of something. Also alternator CAN be tested to check for charging problem, technician tak tahu to check kah before changing it...

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 21 2012, 08:49 AM

If you look at Persona Maint Schedule, it list 5 bottles of gear oil for each gear oil change. So 5L it should be...

Darn Proton, tot maint will be cheaper than Honda, so goes for Proton instead. Ni a mah....even gear oil change also over 30-40% more expensive than City CVT oil change....

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 22 2012, 05:51 PM

Owned an iswara before and persona is a replacement for my often reliable wira. Wira and iswara parts are cheap and maintenance is quite affordable thus the misleading impression of proton being cheaper to maintain...

Mm...someone calling out for me....I can hear it...



In layman explanation, the difference between general Grade 3 Fully Syn vs the others is FS is using Hydrocracked mineral component. Hydrocracked oil is refined to a stage that its almost comparable to real FS lube albeit minus several true FS inherent property such as natural higher viscosity index and better contaminant containment. However hydrocracked still have way better viscosity index and other properties than semi and mineral. Actually in general thats semi and mineral has more similarity. If you service at every 5K, it is arguably FS, Semi and Mineral generally perform almost the same. In real life tho, a good FS generally provide better anti-vibration, contaminant containment, smoother acceleration, longer lasting viscosity indexer, etc. In terms of engine protection, in our hot and humid weather, actually all good lubes be it FS, Semi and Mineral protect almost the same. In cold country, FS DO MAKE a big difference during startup protection (critical protection) due to its cold weather protection property (going up to -30 degree protection against lube feezing).

Thats one reason I mention even Mach 5 would not damage engine coz its still a good mineral (not fake or recycled), just performance suffers a bit due to extra engine noise, vibration, etc. If change every 5K, I don't see any reason mineral lube cannot be used. My City has used mineral up to 60-70K mileage and when open up engine, its still sparkling clean and all components looks new and THAT is using the original Honda and Idemitsu MINERAL lube. However as engine gets older, it tends to vibrate more, noiser, etc. FS with its better properties fixed that BUT engine protection still performed the same. The key word here is changing lube and filter EVERY 5K without fail. That is actually MORE important than using whatever lube, FS, mineral...in the capacity of engine protection. Performance is another story tho as mentioned in 1st paragraph.

Concept of FS is thicker or thinner than normal mineral and semi is not accurate tho...FS ability of getting thinner to suit high performance engine temperature is what mislead most ppl that FS is actually thinner. Hydrocracked and true FS do lubricate better and smoother and its viscosity changes from very high temperature range to extremely low temperature is the biggest difference here. Becoz FS has better natural viscosity index, it means when addictives that affect viscosity are worn out, it still are able to perform viscosity changes albeit at a much reduced range better than standard mineral and semi.

As for Semi vs Mineral, its still out there with a lot of arguing that it actually does not makes much difference between the 2. Its is given tho that mineral lube have slightly more contaminant than the rest. So semi is slightly cleaner and FS refined lube is the best on this aspect. However at 5K service interval this not as contaminant thingy is irrelevant. Usually the % of synthetic components of a semi is not given, we really does not know how much synthetic is there, maybe 10% or so. FS generally have higher syn components abt 30% but its the hydrocracked based oil that makes the biggest different, soley my opinion only coz we also don't know how much % of syn is there. Lube company keeps MUM...very secretive on that.

So generally I stick either with a very good proven mineral or go straight for FS. Semi IMO, is overated. I maintained semi currently becoz Proton uses it for my free service and parts up to 20K mileage. Probably will retain semi usage due to continuation but will change to either idemitsu or havoline semi next time. FS is too expensive for my 3 months engine lube change.

Oh....true FS like the Amsoil do have the best natural properties but most likely only effective for high performance engine where its properties truly shine. For ours, normal Grade 3+ FS might perform better.

ps. New Havoline with deposit shield just released, saw in Paul Tan site....ha....most prob will try its semi for my 25K change...next week going for 20K last foc service and parts....cialat have to pay over RM150 for extra gear oil changes since it is the only part not included in my FOC thingy.

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 23 2012, 09:54 AM

I'm thinking of trying the newly launched upgraded Havoline Semi with Deposit Shield has rated API SN at my 25K lube change outside.

"According to Caltex, Havoline Synthetic Blend SAE 10W-40 goes beyond what is required of API SN and provides 30% more protection from corrosion and 30% better wear protection. The same oil is also 70% better at wear protection in extreme driving conditions, improving oil stability and increasing durability.

The by-products of combustion and breakdown of oil over time can change the oil viscosity, potentially causing poorer fuel economy. Caltex says that Havoline Synthetic Blend SAE 10W-40 is 55% better at retaining viscosity under harsh conditions."

Seems like so impressive on protection addictives. Will try after 3-4 months later.

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Added on May 24, 2012, 9:23 amHer BM in workshop so FORCED to use her younger brother's college car..

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 24 2012, 09:25 AM

I tot last time you say RM103 for semi. Did not check since then. Probably with check with Caltex near my house this weekend.

Oops..misread you as Xan....I'm sleepy...

Why not esp if either she go pau by someone or her bf bought it for her......some bf or pau kong don't like their women spending too much for their family...


Oh....our PE got cabin air filter or not. If yes, when to replace har...what abt air-cond service interval?

This post has been edited by Cavino: May 24 2012, 01:21 PM

In case of misleading info, this is to clarify the the oil post I did several pages ago on the FS being thinner.

As for FS being thinner, it is actually true in general BUT when they are operating and normal engine temperature, the thickness is actually the same, thus my say so earlier.

Synthetic do have natural protection properties that mineral does not...one is they cling to engine parts better due to their higher film strength. They are naturally thinner but have greater slipperiness YET clinging to parts better. A bit contradicatory to standard thickness cling better to part but in FS, its the reverse and works that way. Of course when start up the naturally thinner and slippery nature WORKS better than mineral in moving up to parts quicker to minimize wear. Thus FS usually mentioned protecting engine better due to minimization of this startup wear that form 85% of engine wear failure.

True FS does not have VI addictives thus in short, viscosity never wear out however do note most of our FS is grade 3+ mineral, not ester or POA, so VI is there just not as much as semi and mineral thus wearing them out still have a bit of buffer protection in allowing viscosity changes.