To most of us, electronics means work lol, and not all our designs are good lol

the last electronic device i designed was a nuclear detonator lol.....hmmm....or was it a crappy power filtration and stabilization circuit.

That reminds me, i just got me a 179


Dead accurate, perfect for my work since my last multimeter exploded violently (I wasn't even mine ), plus besides being great for my usual work. It just owns when it comes to comp geekdom, comes with a thermocouple, easy grip probes and a non slip case. Knowing my carelessness, i think the investment was well worth it (Got it for 5 days and blew up the 1000V fuse )

Truly worth it if you're hardcore. Anyways, got a book on electronics by hambley. Anyways, anybody here want to build amps, i'm interested in the SOHA and Gainclone amps and would appreciate it if a few of us would post on it's design and improvement.

Generally you can modify the circuit with

- A timer.
- Power saving.
- Solar Cells with a comparator and battery.
- Mabye a boost function for those nyamuk Gajah.

Suggest using a DC-DC buckboost is what you only need is voltage alone and not current to push the PIC to detect the signal, saves you power too

Don't need to use 5 transformers, just use a single one with multiple windings, you can't have 5 windings of course, but less work in one place always helps. Select power levels that are generally the same and then regulate from there. The 12 volt winding/line can be used to supply the 3.3v and 5v lines with high current LDOs (LM1117 or TI's UCC283), the 24v winding can be set to 15v with a trimpotted regulator based on the LM317 (pretty much a simple cap, a 20k trimpot across the control lines and a few resistors)

imma now building amplifiers and other destructive thinggies. Finished my FYP sometime back, it was a simple DAC circuit for compressive audio encoding. Now i'm going back to simple hobbist circuits.

I would caution againts using that line of thought because real capacitors have ESR, DCL, Tangent Angle loss, PPM temp deviation and stability and many other specs such as noise. So it very much depends on where you're using it.

Not really, for audio circuits, ESR can combine with Series resistance to form an LP filter of sorts and having a knee too early isn't exactly good, you might cut out or attenuate higher order frequencies. Plus electrolytics aren't linear enough for anyone's liking in audiorange when placed in the signal path, and they tend to skew frequency response, especially cheaper ones.

Plus there is a chance of miscalculating feedback depending due to cap constraints.

For capacitors in the signal path, i'll stick with metallized film polyprolene or polyphenyl sulphate caps, although i will go to Polyester and if forced to, then ultra high quality electrolytics. If possible, and if i can keep the offset low enough by properly tuning the power supply, i won't even use caps at all. But then again, they're like condoms, they give you that extra safety net if shit happens, but it's always not as good as just sticking it without one.

For filters, i prefer Silver Mica, i also like it for ground decoupling due to it's somewhat better characteristics in the stability domain. I also use Ceramics when decoupling ground to V+, i use values depending on the frequency of the noise i want to hammer out, but i like .1 uF as my standard.

For the power supply, i use Electrolytics as the main filter and capacitance tanks. For bypassing and snubberizing, i use high voltage self healing films since they work well with high frequency pulses and can help stop EMI and RFI from penetrating the design. And last if not least, tantalums for regulator stability.

Because a high input Z means that it wont load the source behind it.


lol, simple, just multitap the thing.