ic.. Sensing between one IR transmitter transmitting and one IR receiver. Yup, parallel port should be able to do that.
Hobbies Electronics Enthusiasts Club, All elect/robotics lovers! pls come!
Hobbies Electronics Enthusiasts Club, All elect/robotics lovers! pls come!
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Aug 30 2009, 10:59 PM
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#21
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ic.. Sensing between one IR transmitter transmitting and one IR receiver. Yup, parallel port should be able to do that.
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Aug 31 2009, 10:58 PM
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#22
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QUOTE(Wall-E @ Aug 31 2009, 10:34 PM) Which circuit? The IR sensor or the communication with PC? Frankly, I have neither. Added on August 31, 2009, 11:00 pmNot it the mood of googling... I'm sure there are tons of example This post has been edited by Aurora: Aug 31 2009, 11:00 PM |
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Sep 4 2009, 09:59 AM
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#23
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Which infrared sensor you plan to use? Mind to post the datasheet so I can have a look?
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Sep 22 2009, 12:15 PM
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#24
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azmax100, check your inbox. I sent you a PM about trading arduino with ICD2 LE. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks.
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Sep 27 2009, 01:01 PM
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#25
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QUOTE(FLu_Shots @ Sep 26 2009, 11:44 AM) Hi gurus, I need help in getting battery. I have a portable memory card reader with an internal battery that is dying. THe dealer that i got it from says they dont import the replacement battery. I am contacting the manufacturer but i highly doubt they will sell it to me personally. So I am trying to source it here in KL. You can use any Lipo battery in the market, provided that it is rated for 3.7v. Lipo single cell voltage is 3.7v, that means there is only a handful of lipo battery with voltage of 3.7v, 7.4v, 11.1v etc, so don't worry if you get an off-spec battery. Product Website: Nexto M1 Picture of the Battery in question attached. On the website the battery suppose to be: Internal battery : Li-Poly (3.7V, 1550mAh) Dimension of the battery is 6mm x 40mm (wide) x 60mm (long) There is no other marking on the battery as to the voltage or capacity which is usually suppose to be there. Is there any place to get these kind of battery? Jalan Pasar got? Know roughly what is the price? thanks Edit: Figured out that the code PL-654060 is actually the dimensions of 6.5 x 40 x60mm previously i measured with ruler The mAh is the capacity, the higher the number, the longer it can be put in service and vice-versa. You application probably drain only a few mA, other lipo specification is not important. If you can't find 1550mAh, you can use any rating, it won't affect your device. So, you can just go to any handphone or camera shop, and show them the battery and say you want the battery which has the exact same size. One last thing, all single cell lipo after fully charge is rated at 4.2v, therefore you may find certain lipo battery rated at 4.2v, instead of 3.7v. Don't worry, you can use it. Your device would automatically cut-off the charging when it reach the appropriate voltage. This post has been edited by Aurora: Sep 27 2009, 01:03 PM |
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Oct 1 2009, 11:06 PM
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#26
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QUOTE(FLu_Shots @ Sep 29 2009, 12:59 AM) Noted with thanks. I am actually limited in space in the casing anyway and from what i have seen Li-Poly capacity are very size dependent. The larger they are the higher the capacity. That said, I have also been reading some datasheets for some IC chips for Li-Ion and Li-Poly recharging they all are charged by monitoring the voltage across the batts. Have not heard any concerns regarding charging rates though. Any thoughts? To properly charge a Lipo, it need a built-in charger circuit, which monitor the peak voltage. Charging lipo without proper monitoring is extremely dangerous, it may cause fire and explosion. And because it monitor peak voltage, they automatically cutoff when it reach peak voltage. It's safe to say that you may charge any mAh lipo, provided they have the same voltage rating. Normally the only concern for Lipo charging of the same voltage is its charging ampere. For your device, it should be relatively low, USB support relatively small current. USB devices with battery are normally smart charging circuit, not time-counter circuit. This is due to reason that the design take into account of frequent and inconsistent plug and play of USB device, hence the circuit need to be smart. I forget to mention that you can get it from any RC store (as tgrrr point out). You can try asking in RC forum. As far I know, lipo can be custom made, rcsmart do offer custom made size and capacity, but with condition of minimum order of 5, I think. Not that I encourage you to customize ur battery QUOTE(cute_boboi @ Oct 1 2009, 06:24 PM) Want to ask, anyone knows if any simple room temperature sensor that connect to PC USB or DB-9 ? Also comes with simple software that interface with it to provide room temperature. You can try instructables, or try Jalan Pasar, I think I saw a kit or something similar, with LCD, temperature sensor, cooling fan. It's either by cytron or bizchip. With a bit tweak, you can interface with PC via DB-9 (or RS232). If you want a complete solution, I can do it for you, with a small price. Range: 0-60 Celsius Incremental in 0.5-1.0 is enough This post has been edited by Aurora: Oct 1 2009, 11:16 PM |
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Oct 7 2009, 06:18 PM
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#27
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As a pastime hobby, seeking personal satisfaction.
Shall we organise a TT? |
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Oct 7 2009, 10:39 PM
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#28
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QUOTE(azmax100 @ Oct 7 2009, 06:23 PM) "Teh Tarik" session QUOTE(yokatasan @ Oct 7 2009, 10:03 PM) how u all get inspiration to create a project? 1) My inspiration mostly come from walking robot..mind to share what projects u all hv done b4? I start 1st, 1) telerobot with robot arm (the look similar to bomb disposal robot) 2) AGV (same as line following robot) 2) mostly microcontroller-base project. Currently working on legged robot This post has been edited by Aurora: Oct 7 2009, 10:43 PM |
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Oct 11 2009, 12:18 PM
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#29
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I'm working on a multi-leg robot, not biped. Biped has limited room for creative motion, mainly due to stability issue. Commercialize/hobbyist unit is not up to the standard yet (at least not mine
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Oct 27 2009, 08:23 PM
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#30
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For CNC-base design, have you already figure out the mechanism to transfer the rotation motion to linear motion? CNC machine normally use wormgear and rack, has high torque output, but at the expense of low speed. And depends on your load, you maybe able to use Tachus42 3 Axis Board, with some modification on the IC to suit your motor.
pminmo has several link to free software. These software has already pre-scripted communicate protocol with the board via parallel port. If you want to write your own program, maybe you need to get it from the author how the protocol works, or maybe reverse engineer yourself. We (myself and tgrrr) are actually looking for small project for pasttime and some side income. Depends on your requirement, urgency, and to what extend, we could help you, at a reasonable price. |
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Nov 11 2009, 08:20 PM
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#31
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Just post it. But my asm knowledge is very limited.
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Dec 21 2009, 08:31 AM
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#32
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fantasy1989: parallel port respond on +5v. For your case, if your switching is slow and time critical, you can use a transistor circuit, or op-amp circuit. If it is time-critical, then you need to get those TTL chip. Be careful when playing with parallel port, if you apply the wrong voltage or current, it may smoke your motherboard!
rokiroad: I found the solution already, in fact had my PCB board done. |
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Jan 17 2010, 03:58 AM
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#33
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Hi Chein, what kind of project you have in mind? I'm using PIC (aka microchip product) because there are plenty of guidelines, code examples in books and www. Some of the most used and cheapest uC is PIC16F84A and PIC16F877A.
Atmel has a slightly different architecture, and able to execute more instructions per second. But to me, it's just the same. There are plenty of guides for Atmel as well. The most used Atmega16, 32 and 168. Atmel has slightly better advantage in terms of coding. It come with a free C compiler. While Microchip free C compiler has some limitation, otherwise user need to purchase the unrestricted C compiler. Otherwise, if you are familiar with assembly code, both also support it. Arduino (based on Atmel uC) is getting more attention recently, because it provide a simple board that allow user to connect to their PC, program it (in C), and execute the code. Very good for beginner. |
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Jan 19 2010, 11:46 PM
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#34
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Arduino is a complete solution. It comes with an Atmel uC sitting on a prototype board with a lot of pin out, and a usb connection to PC. So just plug into the USB, run the compiler, write your code, program it. The limitation on Arduino is that it pretty much seal the type of Atmel uC, so you get only that amount of pin, functions, and program space and RAM.
Then connect the pinout on the board to LED, siren, sensor etc. I think you can check with Azman, he hang around this thread earlier. For Microchip, get those ICP (In-Circuit Programmer) type. it's program via 2-pin only, and standard power and ground connection. I'm using it and it's very easy. For Atmel, I haven't seen their programmer in Malaysia. I think Arduino is best for starter, Microchip and Arduino is more suitable if you have plan to move on to intermediate and advance level. |
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Jan 31 2010, 10:01 PM
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#35
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The most basic project you can do is LED related project, like trying variety of blink, dimming, etc. Most books, sites will recommend LED blink project.
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May 29 2010, 04:41 PM
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#36
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The best place to look for is Jalan Pasar, KL. I think most DIY user don't mask their PCB board. I know I don't.
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May 30 2010, 07:30 PM
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#37
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QUOTE(limhongwoon @ May 15 2010, 02:46 PM) QUOTE(limhongwoon @ May 30 2010, 04:17 PM) Those are industrial wire stripper. You can find a lot of those from different manufacturer. For electronic goodies, check Jalan Pasar, KL. Or check out ace hardware.For cheaper unbranded stuff, you can check your local hardware shop, those big one. They might carry few. I use this, made in china, serve me very well so far. This post has been edited by Aurora: May 30 2010, 07:32 PM |
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May 31 2010, 06:54 PM
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#38
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Erm, I'm not familiar with any brand though. But all are pretty standard. You can spot the quality almost immediately when you held it.
Buck controller can get at the famous Jalan Pasar, KL....!!!! |
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