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Hobbies Lowyat On-Road R/C, Formerly LYN drifters

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XpzV15
post Jan 15 2013, 05:02 AM

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Joined: May 2011


Hello, New poster in this thread.
I play a 1/8 Off road Nitro Buggy and i want to get into the On Road EP scene mostly because nitro is hard to maintain and off road track is far from my house so a EP on road would me the best choice for me now, I am playing for drifting and if possible a little bit of touring also what would you recommend to me?

My specification list:
Brushless if possible
2.4Ghz transmitter and receiver
Preferably Shaft driven cause i'm used to racing shaft
Aluminum body
Below RM1k
People who want to sell their second hand model are welcome too! but must give pics and specsheet

Any and all recommendations are welcome smile.gif
Thanks in advance!

This post has been edited by XpzV15: Jan 15 2013, 05:32 AM
XpzV15
post Jan 15 2013, 05:59 PM

Getting Started
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Junior Member
63 posts

Joined: May 2011


QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jan 15 2013, 07:33 AM)
If you want to do touring and drifting, you can try the Sakura Zero S. I personally love mine to bit. It's been very tough (been crashing it a lot!), handles power very well, also handles the track pretty well.

- Sakura Zero S
- Hobbywing 5.5T + 60A ESC
- Sanwa MT4 (Or FlySky GT3B if you want to save some $$$ )
- Savox SC-1257TG
- Turnigy 6000mAH 65C LiPo

In regards to choosing between shaft and belt driven, it would be more advisable to get a belt driven car as opposed to a shaft driven. A lot of pure bred racing chassis ( TRF 415,416,417 , Xray T2, T3, T4, Schumacher Mi4, Kyosho TF5, Team Associated TC5, TC6) are all belt driven. It doesn't mean you can't get a shaft driven car to perform, but there are limitations to how much power you can put to the shaft before it bends. If you insist on a shaft driven platform, you can consider the Team Associated TC4, which itself is relatively proven as a club racer over at the States.
*
Thanks for the fast reply!
Building from kit... A little troublesome but I think I can manage, where do I get all the parts from because the R/C shop near my house extremely overpriced (HSP FF1 at RM499 rclxub.gif )
What do you think about the HSP FF1, HL518, Sakura D3 CS Drift and Vantex 416?
Also to all Penang racers, are there any tracks in Penang that is not at Batu Kawan?

This post has been edited by XpzV15: Jan 15 2013, 06:08 PM
XpzV15
post Jan 16 2013, 01:37 AM

Getting Started
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Joined: May 2011


QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jan 15 2013, 09:07 PM)
HSP FF1? I dont know of such a car. But I do have a HSP on road car, tuned for rally duties. icon_idea.gif

HL518? Avoid chinese clones at all costs. Same goes to the Vantex 416. Avoid.

That leaves you with the sakura D3. Well, it is a good chassis to begin with, but you're pretty much limited to drifting ONLY, no touring as the gear ratios front-to-rear means you probably wont be able to drive in a straight line.
*
Oh, alright then seems that the S Zero is the one for me biggrin.gif But the parts that you listed are over my budget already and not including charger.... cry.gif is is possible for you to make a cheaper just for fun build? over 1k i simply cannot afford.....
only problem would be building it as i already got headache with my nitro (i hate tuning)

QUOTE(grassmy @ Jan 15 2013, 11:16 PM)
i got RTR set to let go. if you're in a rm750 budget PLZ have a look at my WTS post. For beginners its a good bargain. Plus i'm letting go cause its simply collecting dust in my room. My next stage upgrade for this set is a good brushless combo and of coz Lipo (bcoz battery just dont last for playing, good enough for setting.

Mine is a HY CHINA (XRAY T2009) replica. Only the CF chasis is original. All replaced with branded stuff and alloys (original parts given as well). All screws for chasis replaced by titanum versions (original screws given).

As for me, i couldnt afford something from YOKOMO or TAMIYA or HPI even, but yes they have the best stuff at a 1k above price. Mind you XRAY stuff are more pricier than those brands. But no, my kit have nothing from XRAY replaced (it just looks like one).

I bought a CHINA HY BECAUSE.........i WAS a beginner, a noob so to speak!!! I couldnt afford something branded to train my skills so.....i opt for a CHINA HY then to TRAIN and BASH and of course BE MORE technical in terms...hehehe.... I never regret doing so, and made more frens because for a beginner, a cheap china set will make you look like a MODEST person......

THEN again....its just my 2cents tok kok.... cheers mates!!!!
*
Kinda interested but then building from kit will enable me to have more information on the car that i will be using for a looong looong time
Thanks for letting me know though!

This post has been edited by XpzV15: Jan 16 2013, 02:08 AM
XpzV15
post Jan 16 2013, 03:56 PM

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Joined: May 2011


QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jan 16 2013, 07:08 AM)
Cheaper build?

Sakura Zero S
FlySky GT3B
Hobbywing 9t + 35A
Blue Bird BMS-631MG
Turnigy Nanotech 5300mAH 30C
GT hobbies GT606D (Built in power adapter)

That should be better? hmm.gif
*
biggrin.gif
Thanks for the new specs
I've decided to only change the servo and the remote to the lower model because the initial motor and ESC you listed is better thus more speed=more fun and the battery only costs a few ringgit more so i'll stick to the 6000mAH pack
XpzV15
post Jan 28 2013, 01:25 AM

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Joined: May 2011


Anybody know where to play R/C in penang?
XpzV15
post Feb 24 2013, 09:22 PM

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Anybody buy online from FGM hobby before?
cause i order my sakura from them and 4 days edi still no response :/
XpzV15
post Mar 3 2013, 02:06 PM

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Just a quick post here after finally receiving my Sakura Zero S
FGM Shipped it assembled but assembled BADLY
Chassis Flat Hex screws were stripped, most of the screws were screwed in so tightly I had a hard time opening them, the belt was set in wrongly so it scratched the chassis when turning, the differential was so tight it wasn't a differential any more, left and right ride heights were unbalanced and washers were missing here and there and finally the turnbuckle jams when turning more than 20 degrees left and right and to kick me in the face one more time, most of the plastic parts had their screw holes stripped because the guy that assembled them screwed the screws in so tightly the plastic got stripped. mad.gif vmad.gif
I'm sending it back and asking for a NEW SEALED and UNASSEMBLED set

On another note
i got the Hobbywing 9T 35A Set and i was wondering if i could use a 60C Lipo with it?

This post has been edited by XpzV15: Mar 3 2013, 02:14 PM

 

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