What Timer Module?

1x500kUF capacitor
1xdiod
1x5 way relay

That's the timer if I have the capacity, would have mass production & make profit liao.

500kUF to kumpul battery so it result in slow dim timer module.

1 way diod to refrain other component in the car to draw power from the 500kUF temporary "battery"

5 way relay as below:
+ for main power
- for ground
Switch ON to connect door swith
Switch OFF to connect alternator
Output connect DIOD then Capacitor then LED

When door switch is triggered, relay turn on output, diod take 1 way current to charge up capacitor, then LED lite up

When door closed, relay stop output. Diod refrain current flow back, capacitor continue supply power to LED until power drained

If alternator start charging(engine started), relay cut off supply to diod, capacitor continue supply power to LED until capacitor power drained

To have instant switch off LED after engine start, can add in another relay AFTER capacitor. When alternator start charging, staright away cut off power from capacitor.

Time to get down to busines liao

Oh?
Yu mean this batt is wet type? Not Dry wan?
Ok. Will try out yr suggestion...
Nothing 2lose, rite?
More 2gain...hopefully...

ps. TQ, Bro!!

UPDATE:

CCA Rating for stock Saga 1.3 Auto : 430

So is that good or high enuf?

My Batt, if car not moved for 1 day, voltage drops to 11.9V only.
After moving arnd town, it goes up to 12.4V.

Alternator appears ok cos ranges from 13.9 to 14.5V, depending on what accessories are on...eg aircon, HU, MedKlinn Asense Auto....etc.

Btw me just cut open vent holes of Batt as earlier suggested by Bro aidlover.
Refilled with distilled water in cells where fluid is low. Only Vent # 4 from left was normal altho others still had the plates still covered.
Now let's hope that little bit helps...
TQ, Bro aidlover!

Juz to share...a pic of how me cut opened the label on top of the Batt & opened the "screw" cap to refill with distilled water (leftover from my ole ride!!) :

Missing post happened quite often lately. Don't know why. But I saw your reply. Yes, 2 thing in the world is unavoidable, which is death and tax.

Recent observation of SAGA BLM's vacuum reading as below:

Idling without air-con compressor, around 18inches mercury vacuum

Idling with air-con compressor, around 13inches mercury vacuum

5 inches of vacuum has wasted on the air-con compressor alone! Those who keep on complaining BLM draining petrol, having your air-con running idle in the car whilst waiting for your mother come out from pasar, or waiting for your girlfriend off the office is seriously unwise.

Meanwhile, I'm considering to change air-con compressor whenever I see fit. Just to make sure I get a lighter compressor so I have less power loss and hopefully better fuel efficiency.

p/s: Whenever income tax is around the corner, all we can think of is where have all the money gone? Now I know part of the expanses has contributed to unwanted/not needed waste of petrol whilst waiting for appointment in the car. Instead, next time get down the vehicle have a quick smoke or get a bottle of mineral water to chill out your hot brain(or you can do beer ).

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Added on April 25, 2012, 8:12 pm

Moved back the post here better la. Over there is a hassle to switching discussion here & there, besides ERIC is not the boss here, not too worry though.

Regarding your statement of 1litre ~ 2 litre engine...   I'm not too sure what you mean. But I can read it as HEAVY air-con compressor. 5 inches mercury vacuum is very abnormal. However, reading of vacuum all depending on the vehicle alone(not speaking for the entire model). So, it COULD BE my car alone having this problem. For now I'm sure my air-con compressor is the culprit of drinking all my petrol 

Dude, really can't compare with all that 3. I have never tried(test drive) an FLX 1.3 before, u wanna let me try yours?

Anyway, driving a CVT is my 1st experience in Perve & FLX. In fact driving a CVT like a numb nut is also my 1st time. Besides, driving MT so many years, CVT is a luxury item for me. So, I guess if u ask me to give. Price to price feedback will be more proper.

Perve: if ur salary can afford, why not? If buy, make sure get a CFE version, otherwise might as well back to Persoga, pay less to get the same thing. According to dares, turbo kick in 2krpm, but I suspect full charge is happening at about 3krpm. If u r performance thirsty, this is not for you. The turbo is just nice for slight torque improvement for comfort/leisure driving.

FLX SE: leather finishing with red stitches! CVT gear box! 110+hp! Almost half the price of a Pergana back then! If can't afford the Perve, why not FLX SE!

FLX CVT: Huzaifa drove me in his car! Seriously, it felt like a very powerful 1.6 engine. I couldn't tell the difference with FLX SE. I guess the 1 inch wheel size different offdset the extra power of the FLX SE. If not for the bodykit, 1 inch extra wheel, smoked tail lamp, extra 300cc, leather finishing, I don't see the need for SE.

FLX manual... Only 3k difference with CVT, if u choose to save that 3k and snap your left foot in KL Traffic...I've got nothing much to say

FLX CVT is definitely a best buy in my opinion. If given 73k in hand, I'd buy an FLX CVT.

Tonight come to TT, I'll show you why DBW installed in our cars.for now, I can only tell you DBW is specially designed for CVT. A car with DBW without CVT is simply incomplete, in fact CACAT. Unable to explain here, can only show you when I'm driving.

P/s: dares, I don't drive friends car like a moron. I'm a gentlemen, unless the car is meant for trashing(ie.showroom test drive car).

oooo .. rm150 for all four?

500++ plus labor? Did he give any feedback on the results? As in +50HP and +75NM torque etc, etc?
Where did he get it done? Proton SC?
lol ... you mean different in your head issit?

i can tahan...my FL soft ler..corner pun canot hard hard.... but no money to change... V12K dont wan sponsor me..  

racing sponge/sponge filter
Feel nothing pickup time take longer to drag vacuum back to 10inches mercury & below. May be palcebo, but normal driving it felt more efficient, but less torque at low RPM(already low,now worse). Its now even hard to control my right foot due to low restriction. I need sometime to adjust my driving style before I can give a proper feedback. For now, nothing good. All bad.

Btw, I use WD40 to oil it(as well as all my other previous performance filter).

WTF~!! suddenly all wan me do open pod.. 

not poison la.. juz sharing.. but if u do open pod, best if u do exhaust manifold and tip.. bcoz u alrdy hav larger inlet, but still small outlet.. not balance, same goes to ppl do exhaust mod but using ori intake..

Mentenan phree oso ka?! How cum last so damn long geh? Why mine died on 366 days geh? So damn on time. 1 day after warranty zhao die jor

TQ, Bro!!
As soon as yu free lo...stickers that me put to cover up marks on bumber peeling off liao...due2 hot sun!
Can go into Pos Express envelope? Medium size wan?
Can FT cost in2 V12K punya acct...then he can help pass over 2yu when u guys TT?
But better if yu hv MBB acct la...his not MBB wan...

ps. Bro V12K, hope yu dun mind...? TQ..

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Added on May 4, 2012, 11:24 am
Since previous owner oledi changed it, then not same as ori liao...
Ori one is Ramcar...."sealed" wet type. Sealed with tape!! So kinda MF...Haha! 

Real MF batts really completely sealed...NO caps wan!! 

From wat me kno, batt that is kept fully charged daily, wld last longer than one in car used for short distances nia. 
The other day me met one Persona owner whose batt juz abt 2conk....more than 3 yrs oledi!! Same Ramcar batt!!  That guy travels at least once (sometimes 2X) weekly to Pg...

Btw my batt still shows 11.9V every morning....12.4 or so after use...
So postponing change new batt abit longer....
Hope not get stranded... 

but all those hype about no dimming of headlights, less power loss from compressor kick in, stronger audio, reduced DBW delay, i dont feel any difference.

But if it does help prolong battery, then at least it has a function there. no theories to back me up here, just cakap kosong haha.

Can't cum brader,tonite go back kampong see my folks. U knoe la,family man mar. Weekday sure I find excuse to get permit de.
This evening go home can not start de

What to do? For the past 6 years wifey has been using it. Until bought BLM, suddenly gimme back my car key for ISWAGA, next morning my BLM hilang ady now if go TT need to obtain permit. Morning need to wake up earlier to grab car key. If late means ISWAGA for the whole day

Regarding insured value, later reach home update you guys. Still stuck in traffic.

dont know how to drive manual more headache..cannot buy manual car...all muz auto coz wifu only know how to use auto..  

come TT I teach u kidding nia...

There are many ways to read vacuum, so I just list some common stuff here. Since I'm US norm, I read INCH. You will have to find out conversion of PSI or CM by yourself. Our vehicle vacuum reading is base on MERCURY, if meter show 10in/Hg meaning every second the intake manifold is sucking in 10inches of mercury(worth of air) into the burning room. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Vehicle idling should read 15 and below(take note vacuum reading is NEGATIVE value,below means 15 and above).My BLM hot idling is 18, cold idling is 15. Aircon compressor weighted 5. If cold idling pasang aircond, vacuum will raise from 15 to 10! Meaning during cold idling 1/3 of the petrol used to supply aircon alone! My Plotong Vila idling 20, with aircon 18(very healthy). My brother's BiBA idling 19, with aircon 17(very healthy). My ISWAGA idling 21, with aircond 19(f*cking efficient). Normal healthy idling reading should be stable(do not switch on aircon), your reading should not deviate too much. If gradually raise & drop, you may have a loosen throttlebody. If the reading rattle unrythmically, you installed hicam ady if stay normal for a scond & sudden drop then quickly back to normal, and it repeat indefinitely should read as 1 of the piston is leaking.

Efficient driving, by tapping on the accelerator, throttle body is instructed to open. When throttle body open, vacuum will lose because surrounding air will push in. Therfore an engine uses throttlebody to LIMIT air induction(not as we thought uses it to increase air intake). Our S4P throttlebody is already oversized, therefore cincai step on gas pedal, vacum will raised to 0!!! Every corner we took, every traffic light pickup we did actually cost 2x/3x than other cars! I use vacuum reading to practice my right foot, gradually step into 5in/Hg, when the car start moving then grdually let loose my right foot to achive 10in/Hg. As shift up to top gear, we can easily assume driving range between 10-20in/Hg by controlling the gas pedal. You'll be surprise most of the time if u try to maintain 10in/Hg driving, your travelling speed matches SPEEDLIMIT! For example, at winding road near Kuala Kubu Bharu, 4th gear 10in/Hg and below can only result in 80kmh, max 90. However, at straight highway 5th gear 10in/Hg and below can only result in 110kmh max 120kmh. Anything above that is using more petrol than traveled distance(not efficient).

Downhill vacuum reading become tremendously inaccurate. Piston pulled down by crankshaft create suction, throttlebody is closed, actual vacuumization will put down to horrandous 26in/Hg(burning lean). At this time, engine burning room actually suffering high heat without our knowledge, because water temperature is taken from radiator, whilst you think your radiator reading is dropping, your engine is burning with less fuel at high speed! People always claim they never boil their radiator,how come they fired their gasket? I believe this is 1 of the cause.

Vaccum 10 & above(less than 10) meaning is burning rich, 10 & below is consider efficient, 20 & below is lean. That's all for now. My finger almost patah ady.