I think I heard bird chirping noise occasionally when I passed several cars at separate occasion. Seems to be coming from the left but when I stop and listen to engine from outside cannot detect bird noise. Maybe it just happen those few cars got belt noise or I'm screwed. Possible it comes from the belt where I installed lcp? Happen only while car is moving.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 30 2012, 09:24 PM

If timing belt or air cond belt got sound or rosak, got warranty or not.

Got install lcp how ar?

Meat ball sandwich !!!! Eeeugghh

This post has been edited by Cavino: Mar 31 2012, 05:06 PM

No, coating will not remove the swirling, you need the pro to polish it slightly to remove or dim the swirl, no choice coz slight damage already doned. Then apply whatever protective coating and sealent to minimize future damage.

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Added on April 3, 2012, 9:02 ambtw, the FC counter in odometer not accurate wan...been tracking it for long time. Mostly get 7+ l per 100km but if measure thru the conventional full tank / liter pump avg, usually 8+ l per 100km.

Also PE got weird fc consumation calculation, if you do hard driving after a while the fuel indicator will drop.....then when you do economical driving (save FC), the fuel indicator will rise up....I told my wife, PE is great can auto generate fuelinto tank wan if you drive economically after a hard driving session...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Apr 3 2012, 09:02 AM

Actually it depends on your batt condition, I would rather suggest not taking risk and warm up once after 7-8 days, at least 15-30 minutes. Not so good for engine and environment but definitely beats your battery risk kong out when you want to drive your car when you're back. My city tends to last over 2 weeks without restart but Civic and Accord batt kong out after 7 days at times (happened a few times liao). PE never tried more than 7 days tho.

2 weeks no need remove batt terminal lar....2 months maybe lar...

Like Shelby said 2 weeks still might be ok. My City no prob but there is always a small risk if your batt condition is not at optimum.

As for batt leakage, I wouldn't know...coz it HAPPENED to both Civic and Accord. Maybe some electronic parts in those cars consumed batt more than usual.

Based on my exp, 10 minutes too short, not warm up enuf to eliminate moisture in engine. Ideally 30 minutes is better for engine warmup but I think 15 minutes is sufficient to retain minimum charges to start car. Theory only tho...I practice that.

Are you saying if not racing, normal driver would not feel the difference in 17" and 15" acceleration?

Well, I'm not racing but I did feel very big difference in 17" and 15" wheel if they are of the same weight. It affect torque. Seconds does not matter (only racer do?) but the strength of pickup makes a big difference especially in slow start/stop traffic condition.

I installed LCP breaking my own no engine mod stand coz I cannot tahan the acceleration aka slow pickup of auto PE in traffic jams. LCP makes a BIG difference in acceleration. Driving in traffic jam and pickup from toll booth does not frustrate as much anymore.

I've tried City (sorry, most of my exp in City)...15" medium light weight and 17" medium light weight rims....the slowdown on pickup for 17" is quite unbearable for me besides the very hard drive. One who enjoys driving regardless of racing or normal drive WILL notice the big difference in pickup (assuming you're not using those light weight expensive 17" rim)...


This post has been edited by Cavino: Apr 3 2012, 04:12 PM

Haha...no need ferarri, a lot of cars in the same range accelerate better than PE liao...

btw. I've a friend driving the 6 speed forte 1.6 ex and my neighbour driving 2.0sx.

Full spec SX definitely is much more worth it then the feature lacking ex. 1.6 quite powerful liao with the revised 6 speed gear ratio. However IMO, it still has a.....mmm...underpower feel, much better than the 4 speed version tho. Have you try 2.0, its torque is way better although price also goes up over 12K.

Just like the Civic 1.8 underpower feel, Civic should be driven in 2.0 engine just like Forte 2.0 engine. However if you have not really try out the 2.0, actually Forte 6 speed 1.6 is quite good liao.

Build quality is good with extra padding but after a year or so, noise also will start appearing...better than PE tho....before arrive my hand also got sound liao.

Actually I understand Sam very well. When we have family with limited budget, we cannot just say like and straight buy coz the car going to be with us for a long time. I second Sam on comparing different vehicles even drag for long time.....coz I will be in same situation if I wanna buy a better car but only limited budget. I would go ask opinion from all, then asked again opinion abt other cars later when they become available. Think a lot and do budgeting, timing, then only buy.

For my City, I research 3 months with different models, company, etc before finally settle on it....how...when I hit the 3rd month, MMC city appear and suddenly everything, timing, budget, just hit on right spot...that car lasted me 6 years liao and will keep going.

So maybe those bachelors without household budget burden (aka kids, wife, parents, household, future keeping) with limited budget just won't really get it.

Unfortunately increasing low end torque always comes at a price, etc. LCP comes with bassier engine noise (more vibration?), extractor (environment not friendly, catcon removal), drop in / open pod (dirtier throttle). I think my LCP and my future denso SP installation will be sufficient. If want more, change car lor....

Ok, my brake just have sharp sound high pitch when braking slowly. Any other cause other than brake pad finish? Mine only 9 monhts and brake pad seems still got a lot.

You mean it will appear out of nowhere and then disappear again?

But my sharp shrilling sound from front disc brake. Also I'm H-Line with rear disc brake.

But mine is a bloody stock pad with 9 months life. No sound before until it appear today. If its the pad prob, I can still replace it with the stock pad Muslayer sold me. Just worry if it might have some other cause instead. Darn, have to spend money again to ask mechanic to check it out if this sound did not go off.

It seems the CFE variant is the only 1 to go. Others are underpowered and budgeted version. IMO, the weakness, if they still have it, is still the build quality, those that might squeek and need a bit of tightening here and there.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Apr 5 2012, 08:03 PM

His girlfriend lar that go study in Aust...

Bloody stock brake pad. Gotta skim my disc plate. Decided to change to a cheapo brake pad, not so makan but won't makan disc. If new pad that lose out in grip vs stock pad is too not makan, then change back stock pad and wait to change brembo non performance disc plate later when plate makan again.

Installed the cheapo facebook kanasai [fbk] branded ceramic mixed brake pad to replace the still thick stock metal based pad. Never think of stock pad having metal component in pad but it did, my disc skimmed liao.

So far do good. Ooi, mu slayer, the pad you gave me cannot use, one set seriously damage and full of holes, guarantee to cause problems, so just throw it away.

Since we would not know for sure the way you mentioned it, if you're having m or h line, just use insulating tape, the black ones used to tape wire, and wrap all the hooks, 2 at each side and 1 in the middle to eliminate any possibility of sound coming from seat hook. If still got sound that count out seat hook metal clashing sound.