i spotted a few pieces of good bbmg..some even slight purplish..if ure interested..i can tell u the place..

But the one with slight purplish, got some tail defect..the core colouration is damn clean and naiss..only at 8inches..

okay..have u bought insurance? Muahahaha

This is more to BBMG... as for 24k it's not a hybrid aro it's a Gold based MG....
I would prefer a thin frame butend up thick.. but still a stunner at size 9-10 inch

that rm7888 bbmg sold edi...lol..

wat? patin eating a 4inches koi?  are u sure bro?  any pics of ur patin?  i never heard of patin will go eating other fishes of their size..

i feed my aro with patin once in awhile lo..

According to the shop owner, that aro has been sold at RM5xxx. True or not, i really dunno. Lol..

My Aro now living with these....

The Stud...



The Female...



The picture taken just after hour's release into the tank... will update once it is more stable

a guide i borrow from other forum

So you're ready for for a stingray. here are a few things you need to know before buying one

Research
Well you are reading this so that is a start, but you also need to read up on them from other sources as well. there are a few good books. "Freshwater Stingrays A Complete Pet Owner's Manual" by Richard Ross is one, and aqualog has another. Don't just stop at these two as there are more out there. Also the internet is a great place to gather information but verifying this info to be the correct info is that hard part. As some will be conflicting with each other. One of the best sources of information is your fellow ray keepers. Don't be afraid to ask questions as most of us are more than willing to help out to see if a ray is right for you.

Tank Requirements
Now that you have done some research and know a little bit about the ray lets talk about the tanks they need. Stingrays get very big and require a tank with a large foot print. Even the smaller breeds need a large tank, and remember on these a tank with more length and width is more important to height. the smaller breeds (scobina, reticulata, hystrix) require at least a 2'x5' and larger tanks. As they will grow anywhere from
12"-20"

While your mid size breeds (motoro,orbignyi, humerosa, leopoldi, henlei, yepezi) will require a slightly larger tank as they can grow up to 20"-30". So you are going to need a tank with a minimum of 3'x6' to house one for life and a gain the bigger the better.

Now its time to talk about the larger breeds (castexi, Schroederi, Menchacai). these require a very large footprint as they have a bigger disc. They can reach a size of 30"-40" so need at least 4'x8' footprint and like always the bigger the better.

This is just a guide line for the ray housing requirements and their are more species than i listed and also size variations within these. some will get bigger than i stated while others will stay smaller. Males in general stay smaller than the females, so if size is an issue buy a male instead. A rule of thumb i like to follow is if the rays disc and tail can touch both front and back of the tank, its time to upgrade.

Water Quality and Filtration
This is very important when owning a fish of any kind. The number one killer of all fish is ammonia and bad water. As you have read rays get big and they produce a lot of waste. Even when they are pups rays produce a lot of waste you can tell by looking at their poo alone. Much bigger than most other types of fish. So great filtration is a must!

To start out with this a cycled tank is very important. please don't go out and buy a tank and ray the same day. A month or two to have a good cycled tank is a great way to keep a ray alive.

Stingrays are very sensitive to water changes so your filtration needs a lot of bio media and mechanical media to keep the ammonia levels down. Plenty of water changes are also very important in helping your filtration out and providing a good living environment for your ray.

This can be accomplished by multiple cannisters, sumps, HOB's, or OHF's. and even a combination of them all. a good flow rate usually of 6-10x per hour is important to make sure the water is coming into contact with all of the bio media to remove the toxins.

Water volume is also key. A larger water volume you have the better it is for the ray. This helps as having more water it is more forgiving as it also dilutes ammonia and other toxins so this is a must. One of the easiest way to achieve this is by use of a sump. this acts as a great filter and doesn't take up any floor space and it fits under your tank. when buying a sump get the biggest your able to fit under the tank as a rule of thumb.

As far as Ph is concerned i feel that keeping your fish into as close to range as your water you do your water changes with is very important. As rays are sensitive to PH changes and temperature changes. so keeping them both close to your water change water is a good practice.

Also all heaters in the tank need heater guards as rays can burn their disc very easily! sometimes they will burn so bad that it will scar. these can be made or bought and you will be very happy you did it.

Buying A Ray
Now that you know more about rays its time to decide what type and where to buy. So what size tank you have comes into effect here so you want to research the type of ray that can live in your tank for life. Now is another good time to ask your fellow ray keeper's where they purchased their rays at so you have an idea of where to start looking. Be patient and find the ray that you like the most not because someone else said it looked good, but because you think it looks good. Remember this is your ray and your future love

Make sure you are buying from a good source. Most places will allow you to watch the ray eat before buying. So please ask to see this as a healthy ray will eat almost at all times of the day. If the ray does not eat and they say it has just been fed then go back tomorrow and ask to watch again.

Examine the ray closely to make sure it does not have any external parasites or redness. If you see any make sure the owner is aware of this. Most cases they will be aware even if they say they are not. If this is your first ray i would go to the next vendor even if offered a good deal.

Size is important again. Small rays are cheaper in most cases and seem the way to go, but smaller rays are more sensitive to change than the larger rays and sometimes are picky eaters and might not eat at all. So sometimes its best to spend a little extra money and buy a 6" or larger ray as they have lived this long and are eating great. Also ask what the seller feeds the ray and buy some if you don't already have.

Acclimating The Ray
Now that you have purchased your new ray its time to get it in the tank. There are a few methods for this: Now if you bought close to where you live or a few hours away a good method is the "drip method". What you do is put your ray in a bucket if its not already in one. Then you take an airline and create a siphon between your main tank its going in and the bucket. this slowly fills up the bucket and lets the ray get use to your tank water slowly. after your bucket is filled you want to drain it out as much as you can to make it easier to handle. then slowly dump the ray into your tank.

Another way of doing this is taking a cup and you take a cup of water out of the bucket and then you add a cup of your tank water every 5 mins for a half hour to an hour or so.

The other method is best used for when you have your ray shipped and it has been in a bag for 12 hours or more. This is called the squirt and drop method. Since the ray has been in the bag water for so long and is making it slowly toxic you will want to have your chems ready (i use AmQuel). You want something that removes ammonia, chloramines, and chlorine. and as soon as you open the bag you squirt some of this in and then put the ray into your water. while keeping as much of the bag water out.

This keeps the toxic water out of the tank and gets the ray out of the water fast. as floating the bag or raising the temp and opening the bag is actually making it more toxic for the fish so this removes those toxins fast.

Its best to have a quarantine tank for your ray this way you can watch the ray and make sure it doesn't have any parasites or eating problems. Introducing new fish its always better to quarantine for a few weeks so you don't introduce parasites into your main tank

Feeding The Ray
Alright now that your new ray is in your tank its time to feed. A healthy ray will usually eat right out of the bag. Sometimes they are a little stressed and it takes longer though. I usually keep lights off for the ray to settle down for a few days and this helps when feeding.

Hopefully the seller told you what the ray was eating before you bought it so now use that information. Try to stay away from live feeders as they can carry parasites. Feeding a variety of things is good for a healthy ray as it replicates their natural diet. mp, tilapia, pellets, fish fillets, blood worms, black worms, and earth worms are some of the things to start out feeding. see what they take to and feed them what they will eat worry about transferring them onto other foods later. Feed the ray until it stops eating and has a big hump on the back. Then net out the remaining food so it doesn't rot in your tank.

Some rays take time to start eating so don't stress out. Sometimes it even takes up to a week or longer. Just make sure you are doing water changes for pristine water conditions. Also keep the lights off as the ray might be stressed out. and lastly make sure you are offering a variety of foods.

Other Things You Need To Know
Now if you are thinking about adding tank mates to your stingray remember: stingrays are an effective predator. this means whatever will fit into its mouth will end up there in most cases. Also you need to know some tank mates will bite at the rays disc, tail, and eyes. this can stress and even kill your ray. And just because the tank mate worked with someone else's ray doesn't mean its ray safe or that it will work out. So be careful when buying your rays tank mates.

Also medicating a ray. Please make sure you identify before you medicate. Rays are very sensitive to medications so using the wrong type or too much can kill your ray. So make sure you identify the problem if its parasite, fungus, or bacterial. then purchase the ray safe meds to fix the problem.

Asking questions and posting pictures will make this easy to do. So if your unsure ask.

Thank you for taking the time and reading this. hopefully it will help in your future purchase and keeping of these magnificent creatures as they will bring joy to your life and quickly become your favorites. And remember the more you research and know before you buy, the better prepared you will be.

Happy keeping,
Jeffers

nice piece u got there... got any picture on the Pearls/chu

chu or pearl are the scale near to the dorsal fin... as for cross back is the 6th level shine scale (which is on top of the body) on an aro... this usually applies to Golden aro....

btw what type of aro did u purchase... if hb than it's really nice.. but if mg/xb then we need to know the chu got full or not

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Added on March 20, 2012, 11:03 am

got it from a trader.... not lfs

this is my ex SHBrtg

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Added on March 20, 2012, 4:13 pm
got 2 piece in my home size 4-5 inch kekeke.. but if u want the price is high as at came from a very nice brooder...

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Added on March 20, 2012, 4:19 pm
nice piece kent... any other update

I would prefer not to sell as at size 4 inch eat's mp also.. and the shine plus the gold care will be great later...

2 aro in one tank alone is usually deathmatch..one win become the king of the tank and one die..unless, rare case, the both of them pairing..but having a pair of aro pairing in a glass tank makes u the luckiest guy on earth..there is aro pairing in a glass tank but very rare case..

So if u wish to put two aro in the same tank, its gonna be a gamble..

Minimum number of aro to prevent deathmatch is 3..they have to be well fed to prevent hunger thats gonna cause fighting..but again, 3aro in a tank will require the minimum tank size of 6 footer..

mahathir how long is ur aro? u need give him more good food. so fair the golden scale not that obvios yet. btw i cant see any chu on top.

agree with travies.. i cant see any pearlies either..

actually i notice this long back.. but i dare not tell..  are u being conned for ur mgbb? 

and having a tagged fish with certificate doesnt mean the aro it as what it is stated according to the cert..too many conman nowadays

Mahathir, yr fish almost a year rite? same like me last time as my rtg also seem slow growing when keeping in 4x1.5x1.5.
1.5 yrs abt 13 inches only. After I transfer it to 5x2x2, within a mth hv grown 2-3 inches. regarding yr aro mgbb...maybe can ask sifu here to hv a look, if not upto that quality, go change fast fast lah. money not easy to earn ler....

ur MGBB is okay....just need to transfer to black tank... the shine is there... just need to take care of the water quality...and turn on the light's 24/7 after 3 month then u'll  see the gold tone come out...

btw ur in cheras kan... maybe we can tt some time.. i'm in kajang

from the pic can see the shine..nothing to worry lah. like wmkr said take gd care of water and appetite will increase. later tankmate also missing...

ahh, this pic can see the pearlies..not full pearlies..i would say this is a mid grade MG..it is rare to find a high end BBMG nowadays...

But still to verify, will need to see the fish in person..dare not confirm here..

notice your water is abit yellowish. did u do WC weekly? what kind of lighting u having? i can see the golden scale is there but u need enchance it. btw, i think after u keep it for 6 months it will be pretty nice already.

bro my advise i just to keep it simple... when doing WC or anything regarding the aro or any other fish....

What i mean by keep it simple is just not to add too much chemical in ur tank....

this is how i do my regular WC.... I only add Anti-clorin [must be a good one (tension gone/nutrafin (stress release coat) or any other good brand nto the rm1/2 punya) that is all. as for salt i only add it on the 2nd or 3rd time of the WC... like for instance yesterday I did a WC where I only add Anti-clorin... as for the next wc i will add anti-clorin n salt... the this will continue same routine...

Vitamin usually every 2 week's as for amonia down not needed as I am using a good anti-clorin and my wc is every 2 day so amonia no worry for me...as for dark water (black water) why would you want to use it on ur goldie as this will effect the ph of ur tank... it will bring it down....to maybe 4/3... so not advisable

just my 2 cent opinion.

the cut should be fine... just let it be...