Im in Sandakan, Sabah.

I came across this issue for newly built repraps and the problem is solved by placing the limit switch on the opposite side and flipping the stepper motor connector.

Another solution is to mirror every one of your prints in the slicer and it should resolve on its own but trouble some mirroring every part.

You could also change the end stop setting in the firmware from max to min or min to max whichever it is in.

Refer to this too: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,113008

Guys, where can i find teflon tube that goes inside the nozzle throat? what ID and OD should i check for?

I think this Tiko is going to be the next Pirate 3D... 

Also tons of unbelievable statements like, printing ABS, Nylon, and anything more requires 280 deg hotend.

Anyone provides 3D printing services? Thanks!

I think this could be due to the hotend crashing into the print which causes the sound. I had a issue with a reprap 3d printer that kept crashing into the print and the whole layers just offsets in one axis. The crashing is caused by the flimsy frame of the printer when the printer shakes, there is a chance the frame flexes and the hotend hits a part of the print causing the crashing sound. I don't know how if this fact can be applied to your delta printer but you could try running the print at a slower speed or checking the frame for any loose joints.

Glad the print turn out ok for you. I would appreciate if you could post a comment or feedback in my lowyat sales page in my signature. Extra points for post with picture. 
Do you mean you need an extra 100k NTC thermistor?

Thanks for your reply. Checked bloomker's website, the kit price within my budget. Saw the medelmax kit with higher price, do it worth to get this unit?
The kit including all part right? Means no need to get ppl to print part for me.
Notice that also he doesn't include any free filament, means i need to combine 1 spool of filament from u. By when u need the confirmation?

Hi, can anyone tell me how is the quality of the Reprap Prusa i3? I'm planing to buy one. Please also suggest the brand of 3d printer that is worth.

Looks like a well built and sturdy machine, since they are using sheet metal as the frame and injection molded parts. The only drawback is it is not open source and the worst of all is filament cartridge is chipped (not cheap!).

Yes, the filament cartridge comes with a chip that stops you from using 3rd party filaments when you replace the filament when it runs low. Same as how laser printer toner cartridges comes with a chip that tells when the ink runs out.

Though there seems to be some instruction to hack the cartridge but it gets troublesome when you have a few cartridges to hack.

I wouldn't mind trying out their 3d scanner. storm88 any plans of bringing in the scanner instead? 
Thats, a really good advice and I strongly agree the frames need to be far more sturdies and why not steel sheet metal. I don't mind the weight because I have been building shelves using steel angle iron and these things are super rigid.

Any plans of making a set anytime soon? 

Good idea, any one interest? We can build it together. I'll go through the link u stated above 1st.

I'm interested to build the P3steel. 1st thing i need to do is find the laser cutting. Any shop recommended? If not i'll just google and ask quotation, what i need to do is just send the file to them rite?

That is pricey, that's the trade off if the place is near your home.
Maybe it's an alignment issue between the z axis frame and y axis (heat bed). Is the steel frame a little warped after assembly ? Say it rocks a little when placed on a flat surface.

Thanks, will contact them.
If i want to straight do some upgrade on the part, what's ur recommend? Now in mind is the lead screw..

I have lots of spare thermistor and hotends and electronic stuff.  I have 2 sets of ramps 1.4 also. If you need electronic spare parts you can ask me for it. I can send the thermistor by pos express since its quite thin.
Yes, better get the lead screws from overseas or china. Local supplier charge a bomb.

Thanks, will contact them.
If i want to straight do some upgrade on the part, what's ur recommend? Now in mind is the lead screw..

Any recommended for lead screw. Don't know which one is fix for the frame.

Then i'll stick to normal one..if not later will over budget..

How about using aluminium profile ? Probably cheaper and more rigid and stable.

There is many china bearing in local. There are cheap. For slow moving speed, it should be alright to use. How small the bearing require on 3d printer? Less than 10mm diameter? Some Japan brand bearing like NSK should be cheap.

The black cap screw are not easily rust. It been treat with chemical to resistance better on rust. That's why it black. Using indoor is no problem at all. Cheaper too.

You can galvanized the screw you want or chrome it. But will cost few cent more. Comeback collect later. Most of the shop can do it.

SS screw mainly for use on corrode environment. SS are more soft and less strength. Expensive also. Avoid to use if possible.