I have a Folger Tech Cloner kit with heater bed and dual extruders still in the box unopen since arrival. The parts and design is similar to the wanhao duplicator 4 but the frame is laminated MDF, you might want to source the acrylic or steel frame locally.

Earlier I bought and built the oak wood frame version and the parts came complete with a lot of extra vitamins. I manage to build and print in PETG with it but I did not use all the parts because some of the oak frame were warped. The MDF frame should not have any warpage issue and it only occurs for natural wood boards.

If you like you can PM me for the price.

No problem, I have plans to source for the steel frame for this kit but right now I don't have a need to build it yet.

Good that you want to start a community. I too wanted to start a society or club in Malaysia but due to my business occupying most of my time and the lack of participation I decided to KIV this idea.

Anyway, you will need to meet 3D printer users to bring them into the 3D printing community and have better exposure if you want a lively discussion.

Anything you can PM me or just simply discuss with me here.

This post has been edited by altan: Apr 30 2017, 12:25 PM

He made a Facebook group, refer to his quoted post above.

I am not aware of other groups. Can share the link?

When I search online, there is a Malaysia group in 3D Hubs but that one have only a few post and inactive since 2015. Also another one in Google groups but I cannot recall where it is now.

I am not too keen on joining a buysell group since I believe a discussion group should be community oriented and not business oriented.

This post has been edited by altan: May 2 2017, 11:07 AM

Sorry, I tried googling but all I am getting are companies selling me 3D printers or 3D printing services.

Like I said earlier, exposure for discussion groups is very poor in Malaysia. That's basically the reason these groups don't survive for long.

So is the group still active?

Care to share their facebook group?

Interesting are they still around or have they dissolve already? I may want to meet with one of them to discuss business.

The first thing we need to do is to be able to gather at one place and carry out our activities there. I am looking for an industrial lot to move my business into but no luck right now with the current budget. If I can get a few interested parties to form a maker space, we can share the space and facilities then the community can grow from there.

There are a few local filament suppliers but they source from China. I can share with you one that is good and he runs his own 3D printer so his filaments are reliable.

Besides that, I am planning to setup my own filament making facility for specialty colors. I got the kits from filastruder but don't have the space to set it up. I will be setting it up once I move into a new office space I am about to rent from a friend.

Just don't get filaments directly from China though they are cheap but the quality is very hit and miss. I would recommend buying from Singapore or Netherlands. I can sell some of my colorfabb PLA/PHA filament if you want since I bought a bulk of one color. Colorfabb PLA/PHA filaments are very resistant to our humid weather compared to pure PLA filaments.

PMed

The filament extruder is looks easy but getting the parts together is a big headache

I will need a vertical space of up to 2 meters and horizontal space of 1 to 2 meters. I plan to build it vertically to save space and allow the filament to be drawn by gravity. I have already read most of the forum documentation and other filament maker blogs but I feel its still not enough to make perfect filaments with the kit I got.

Yup, that is basically it and at the same time I am looking into recycling PLA waste into filament or pellets.

I have been hearing mixed reviews from various sources on the internet about the CR10 but 3Dhubs gave it 2nd place in the budget printer category. https://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide

I know one user who got a CR10 like a month ago from a sale and so far he hasn't sent me his 3D printer for repairs yet. The only issue he had was some adhesion issue with the filament that came with the kit. One thing I want to highlight is the controller board for the CR10. Apparently they use a modified Melzi board so trying to source that locally may be difficult.

Regarding buying a 3D printer, there are a few companies in Malaysia that sells proprietary 3D printers if you just google them. Do note that buying a proprietary 3D printer limits your use to their software, hardware, and support. On the other hand, open source 3D printer gives you more option in choosing the software and sourcing for hardware is much easier. Getting support for these printers depends on the community built around the particular 3D printer. Also it makes it easy to repair if you have the know how.

If you are into 3D printers as a fun hobby I would suggest getting a basic 3D printer (a small one) at an affordable price tag and just go with that. From my experience, any printer you get will eventually breakdown at some point in time.

Just my 2 cents.

I repaired one Tevo Tarantula before and the issue was the thermistor was faulty and results in a burnt out heater cartridge and clogged nozzle. From my opinion, I think the plastic surface on the heater bed is a silly idea. Good initial adhesion at first layer but it makes removing prints a little difficult. Also, difficult to source for a replacement after scratching it up.

If you are looking for high quality filaments, I sell Qwikfab PLA filaments. From my 3 years of use, I never had any issues with my 3D printer and all my prints turn out really well. They have pretty strict QC for their filaments so you can expect the filament diameter and color batching to be very consistent. One example is the color white in cheap china filaments will have light greyish or reddish undertones. The Qwikfab white PLA filaments is solid white with no funny hues or undertones.

You can check out their website http://web.qwikfab.com/ or you can place an order with me since I have a partnership with them in selling their filaments. If you want I can send you some samples of Qwikfab Q-PLA filaments in a variety of colors. Just PM if you are interested or see my signature below.

Hey all,

I recently uploaded a design to Thingiverse for a simple rubber band gun (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2767254) and I need some feedback regarding the design.

You can help by test printing the rubber band gun on your machine and also provide feedback regarding the design and your printing experience.

If you have a Thingiverse account, feel free to post some makes or remixes as well.

I appreciate your time and feedback regarding this thing.

Drillz and YouTube video in the spoiler.


This post has been edited by altan: Jan 24 2018, 02:09 PM

I had all my 3D printers UPS proofed years ago. Normally a brand new 800 watts (volt-amp, VA) can last about 2 hours for a 300 watt power supply. To get the time, you just take UPS capacity in watts and divide by your PSU input power consumption in watts. Do note that UPS batteries wears out over time, so it is advised to test its capacity once in a blue moon.

Nice, is the surface porous like there are bubbles in between the layers?

Why the odd 0.1313mm layer thickness? Did you derived that value from the threaded rod pitch or the stepper motor microstep limit?

I assume the CR10 is a Bowden fed hotend since you are running the temp quite high for PLA.

I read a blog post or article about the odd layer resolution a long time ago but didn't really test the idea. Maybe I should try that out some time. Only headache I will get is finding the metric pitch out of an imperial threaded rod for my z axis.

Good luck with ABS, you will need to have a minimum heated bed temp of 100°c and have to clean out the hotend each time you switch materials. You should consider PETG instead of ABS if you want engineering plastics.

Nice, don't know if I will make it though.

Everytime my 3D printer having issues or breakdown I am learning something from it.

Good luck filament hunting.