"nothing more to upgrade"??? you wish... it depends on who is poisoning you...if you find a expert master sifu of level 255 in brain wash - mind poisoning ... you better kiss you bank account bye bye...

if you ask me... you have to think further ahead... once you get a cadence capable unit... then would HRM come next? then would you consider elevation an importance in your training? do you need data loggin capabilities?

there is no point getting one with an extra function then thinking, why didn't i get the one with HRM? or this and that function... you jus spend more getting it right sometime down the road...

not asking you to go nuts and get the best of the best out there... but think and analyze if it really is an importance to you and not jus from people's mouth... most importantly is that you understand the need of the function or part and if it is of any meaningful use to you... if not, it will be called kena poisoned into buying it...

This post has been edited by butthead: Mar 7 2012, 12:23 PM

Actually yeah, the cadence meter is important for longer rides. You will want to keep your cadence at a constant, and adjust your gears to suit your cadence. I started with a cadence of around 80 or so, then slowly work my way up. I'm now able to spin at 100 over long distances and now working my way up to 110

---

Added on March 7, 2012, 12:50 pmdoes nothing else to upgrade means its time to get the Madone 6.9SSL Radioshack team replica?

This post has been edited by malleus: Mar 7 2012, 12:50 PM

depends on individual i think. my cadence sensor just lie in store room, not using it. additional sensor on my bike is just too messy. what's important to me is just speed and HRM. cadence just comes naturally

yeah, depends a lot on the individual. I just have got no sense of rhythm at all But some people can measure tempo in their heads

I had my LBS work on it twice already. The second time, it came loose after just one day. Mechanic said its an odd problem and there's not much they can do about it other than to keep re-tightening it. Also, spring break training camp is next week so I had to get these new ones in short notice. Cheap price and good reviews, only problem is that it's really hard to mount tires on it.

Build one myself? Interesting, maybe I'll find out more on how to do that. I want my next wheelset to be 60mm deep.

my custom builds are not referring to the super expensive ones like wheelbuilder.com that uses CK, Dash, extralite, and the hubs that none of us poor souls can afford...

but yeah... in the US... i take it that they like a lot of the Kinlin niobium and Gigantex carbon rims...

i don't know what you think... but if there is a reputable wheel builder there... the costs should like around USD300-400 for a set of very top notch custom built alloys... maybe USD 700-800 for a set of carbons...

which shouldn't be too steep comparing it to the likes of zipp and mavics....

i jus bought some from bikehubstore.com (they jus revamped their site today) as their price are quite fair.. i went over the board this time with Sapim CX-Rays, spoke and nipple washers and also bought a bottle of rock n roll nipple cream to see if those stuff works and lace them to kinlin XR-270 front and XR-300 rears... i particularly liked the front hub as it is even wider than the Zip 88's... complete build should come in at around 1650 grams for a set of 24f/28r wheels...

that or you can try wheelbuilder as they are very reputable for building quality set of custom wheels... the problem is that they use quality parts too and that is too rich for my blood... the shipping to malaysia is also another killer for me...

like this set of rims for USD595.. USD545 if you get a set of hubs from them.. hubs another USD100-120, spokes another USD 130 or so... only problem is that it is 45mm and not 60mm deep...
http://www.bikehubstore.com/Gigantex-45mm-...her-p/wh071.htm



they even have some fancy 16:8 hubs like Campy G3 and Fulcrum 2:1... and i noticed today.. a lighter carbon shell hub... still not as light as Zipp 188's... but light enough to fall below 200grams.. and they are straight pull..

http://www.bikehubstore.com/UltraLight-Car...ub-p/sp197r.htm

---

Added on March 7, 2012, 2:09 pmblimy... now i sound like i am promoting them...

This post has been edited by butthead: Mar 7 2012, 02:22 PM

already had HRM, gps tracking device haha.. well for rimset, better frames and groupset, wait until at least I can squeeze into at least top 50% of tri-event contestant, will upgrade for TT bike then

oh yeah... you own a timex ironman right... if it ain't too expensive...go for it, since it is modular anyways... thought you were planning to get a totally new computer.

even this fella only rides a polygon 300 at the beginning... you had a better start than him...
http://impossibleisnull.blogspot.com/2008/05/new-bike.html

he got a runner / beater bike as a 2nd bike... and then the third, a race bike which is an argon 18..
http://impossibleisnull.blogspot.com/2009/...tt-mercury.html

i think he rides a specialized transition now with DT tri-spoke wheels..

it's never impossible according to him as long as you have the will..

why need to justify the upgrades? why so serious? hmm....

Rule #4 - http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/

if the time comes to replace my wheelset, gonna go with mavic cxp33 + sapim cx-ray and shimano DA hubs. ok ka?

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 7 2012, 04:18 PM

are your device got measure % of uphill and downhill gradient real time??


Are complete measuring cycling is Heart Rate monitor, speed sensor, cadence... is the hill gradient % is measured together with speed?

u want complete, get powermeter

Bike only...

miowpurr,

thanks for the rules. I like rule No. 10, It never gets easier, you just go faster!

why need to justify... because $ is everyone's concern at the end of the day...if no needs to justify... means you buy any and everything to your hearts content... and that is how people land in massive mountains of debts...


function wise, speed, cadence, alti and HRM would be the 4 functions that defines a more complete cycling computer... GPS is sort of added on as of late...

how the computer utilizes the data is another thing... for example, basic would be HRM showing only your current heart rate... advanced and more complete for training will split it into exercise zones so it will beep and tell you as you enter each zone to warn you not to overdo your limit...

gradient in some way is measure with speed... they will take the current elevation record minus previous elevation record and divide by the distance covered in between 2 records

for example you gain 10 meters vertically in the last 100 meters of horizontal distance, then your gradient will be 10% and this will be a gauge for how steep the climb is..

in recent computers, there is also a new data parameter called climb rate... used to track how many vertical meters you climbed per minute time frame... climb rate will be used to gauge how fast you went up a particular climb irregardless of the steepness... but logic tells you that for the same elevation, you either travel further horizontally witj less steepness or you travel more up a steeper climb with less horizontal distance...

that would be very preferable if it doesn't cost an arm and leg..

furthermore, powermeter are very hard to digest and analyze... it is a truly good tool for very advanced training... but you will have to be into minute details to learn how to use a power meter.. on top of calibration to get it right...

what i'm trying to say is, if one has $ and not a constraint to him, by all means if want to upgrade, go ahead. there's no need to reach certain level or achievement to justify the upgrades or purchase.

upgrading and purchasing beyond one's financial means is just plain unwise.

i encourage my friends to upgrade all the time. maybe if got lucky, they would sell their used stuff at lower price.

true, it's an overkill for us mortals. HRM + speed should be enough. cadence/spinning at a comfortable rate, monitored by HRM. get a garmin edge 500; cadence + speed sensor built-in together, and comes with HRM.

++++++++++++

just for fun

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/6...favorite-thread

try "Chick in flip-flops riding a Cervelo" and "I am sorry I have to drop you because you look like Lance"

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 7 2012, 05:56 PM

that's why every time... i would try to say "if money is not an issue"... because, if money is not the problem in the first place... then the question (is this upgrade worth it?) does not exist at all.. the question exists because we want to get our money's worth for watever money we have to spend.. if not we can jus upgrade anything we like...

with $ issues out of the way... you can go straight and get the best of the best in equipment, and if the best of the best fails to satisfy... there will always be another best of the best somewhere down the road.. that means swapping stuff like money is not a concern at all...

i wouldn't say that who has the right to use a particular component... it is just that one might not feel that much of difference between DA and Ultegra for instance and only the purchaser would eventually understand if the extra forked out for the better component is worth it to his enjoyment...

so, it is a question of finding out prior or post purchase that is very integral to forum discussions, i would think... if not we will always come in and say this and this is the best, no questions asked jus buy it...

we are here to share our thoughts and not to keep motivating people to changing stuff...

furthermore, i don't trust my words can change your decision if you have your firm beliefs from the start that what you desire is what you want...

and i am not paying for your upgrades with my money, which makes me having no rights in stopping anyone from any upgrades...

---

Added on March 7, 2012, 6:02 pmCXP33 or Mavic Open Pro's make very tough rims... DA hubs are also very good and reliable as long as you take it apart to service the loose ball bearings once in a while... Ultegra FH-6700 would do just as fine at almost half the price if i were to build it...

Sapim CX-Ray would be where i think you will hit a blockade... hard to find in Malaysia... not even possible to get DT Aerolites in length excess of 280mm...

they are dirt cheap to build as well... i build my rear wheel with FH-6600 with Open Pro and DT Champion spokes (32 spokes - 3 cross both sides) for under 600... basically a great whack and bash wheel you can ride with no worries...

This post has been edited by butthead: Mar 7 2012, 06:11 PM

ok got your point. i agree! let's toast to that, and let the suffering begins! cheap stuff, expensive stuff, when the gradient goes up, the legs still scream.

btw, if u make impossibleisnull fella as your example, then your argument is void. because he is not human.

sapim/aerolite hard to find huh? darn it. i want to try to break free from mass produced wheels. my fulcrum racing 1 rim got dented a bit and trying to get a replacement is such a pain.

my idea is to build a wheelset at par with racing 0 or ksyrium sl, fast enough for racing (not that i race), and durable enough for training.

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Mar 7 2012, 06:15 PM

serious cycling is never an enjoyment.. whether you are the beginner who began cycling 2 weeks ago or you are andy schleck... or if you have an old steel frame or a high tech carbon frame... you still suffer when time comes...

important thing is to always savor the moments and enjoy the view and fresh air at the top of a hill after a torturing 2 hour ride...

i have to say "it is not always about the bike" if you are an avid cyclist...

anyone here using garmin edge 500? is the route mapping features capable enough in assisting you in navigation?

yip is in fact very human.. he jus have an inhuman tolerance for suffering.. or what we all know as a sadomasochist...

i agree with the factory made wheels.. they jus have no soul nowadays and a major proof that bike shops is in it for profit rather than good quality bike products...

as for having a custom set on par with racing 0.. depends on what you are referring to... stiffness wise, maybe and maybe not... but that depends on your builder on whether he dares to wind the spokes onto it's tension limits...

but definitely i can say that it will be cheaper that a set of racing 1's even if it means to import some parts on the net in... weight wise will be comparable as well...

aerolite's i have asked before, orbea might be able to get them in but will have to buy the entire box... and as you know part of wheel building... there will always be 3 different spoke lengths... i am a person who don't mind having spares... but 3 x 100 piece box is going to be enough to build me 7 to 8 set of wheels with spares in change...