Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 Renovation Secret & Tips Revealed, Secret&Tips contractor wont tell you

views
     
cheekily
post Sep 23 2012, 04:56 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
Hi tomjason,

I'm planning to build a concrete kitchen tabletop with tiles. The contractor told me that I can choose whether to use:

1. bricks for the tabletop legs/stand, which will be about 4 inch thick (bricks + cement + tiles on both sides)... or
2. without bricks, but using cement with rod irons inside (+ tiles on both sides), which will be slimmer and nicer looking.

I like the 2nd option as it looks more modern, but I'm not sure whether is it strong enough? Afraid that in long term it may not be able to tahan the weight and all the pounding + cooking works done in the kitchen... scared may crack later and the whole tabletop collapse blush.gif Also, is it advisable to add some hidden legs/stand in the middle of the tabletop? Hope you can help advice on this. For those who have experience in this, please feel free to comment and advise too. Thanks!

This post has been edited by cheekily: Sep 23 2012, 04:56 PM
cheekily
post Sep 24 2012, 06:09 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(tomjason @ Sep 24 2012, 08:23 AM)
hi bro,

the second option is good..look slimmer...dont worry..it is strong....the weight of kitchen table is not supported 100% by that brick or concrete..90% of the weight is support by the concrete that attached to the wall....
*
Thanks for the advice! Will go for the thin leg/stand then biggrin.gif The concrete tabletop is about 8 ft long... actually it's not from wall end-to-wall end, but more of in the middle of the wall, so will need 2 legs/stand on each sides (left and right). Do I need to add a hidden leg in the middle too?

This post has been edited by cheekily: Sep 24 2012, 06:12 PM
cheekily
post Sep 26 2012, 08:14 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(tomjason @ Sep 25 2012, 08:07 AM)
no problem if you do not want the the hidden leg...if you want also can...no problem...for tabletop the most important is how your contractor connect to the wall properly..
*
Thanks for your valuable advice smile.gif

This post has been edited by cheekily: Sep 26 2012, 08:16 PM
cheekily
post Oct 17 2012, 09:32 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
Hi tomjason,

Would like to ask more about installation of water pump for my new house. Hope you can help beri tunjuk ajar on the piping... From what I understand, the water pump must put after the tangki air, and from there the piping connect back to the house. Can it be installed where I can choose whether to on the water pump or not? Meaning, if I don't on the water pump, I can still get water direct from the tangki air. Hope you can help explain how to go about with the piping + diagram.

Also, is it the kitchen gets water directly from the main pipe and not from the tangki? So if I install water pump, do I need to divert the kitchen's piping to come from the tangki so that it will get strong water pressure also? Need to hack? Please advice... a bit headache with this, need to get a clear picture as I plan to start my reno soon. Thanks in advance!
cheekily
post Oct 17 2012, 03:58 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(tomjason @ Oct 17 2012, 01:44 PM)
Hi bro,

Below is my advised:
1. "From what I understand, the water pump must put after the tangki air, and from there the piping connect back to the house. ".

Ans: Yes, according Syabas regulation water pump should be after water tank. Cause if you put after meter than other house will have low water pressure (syabas will take action if people complaint). Second, if you put after meter your bill very high.

2. "Can it be installed where I can choose whether to on the water pump or not? Meaning, if I don't on the water pump, I can still get water direct from the tangki air. Hope you can help explain how to go about with the piping + diagram. "

Ans: Yes, you can design some pipe with water pump some without.

3."Also, is it the kitchen gets water directly from the main pipe and not from the tangki? So if I install water pump, do I need to divert the kitchen's piping  to come from the tangki so that it will get strong water pressure also? Need to hack? "

Ans: Yes. Hack or not depend on your choice.
For me i dont prefer water pump, if want to design without water pump read my thread:

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=2271767&hl=

gd luck

*
Thanks for the info, tomjason.
cheekily
post Oct 19 2012, 03:15 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(BM81 @ Oct 17 2012, 05:19 PM)
bro cheekily,
if not mistaken, kitchen gets water directly from the main pipe....
before you decide whether want to install pump or not, .you can ask your plumber or measure yourself by using a gauge on the tap and read what is the psi/bar. Anything above 40psi is good enough.
all other sifus please correct me if i am wrong....
*
Thanks for your advice, BM81. Just to double confirm, for new house, all the shower head piping comes from tangki air or from direct main pipe? Izit just the kitchen piping is from direct main pipe and the rest all from tangki air?
cheekily
post Oct 24 2012, 03:22 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(BM81 @ Oct 22 2012, 02:58 PM)
Hi bro,
for most of the new house, shower head or toilet water comes from tangki, while kitchen comes from main pipe. smile.gif
*
Thanks for the info!
cheekily
post Nov 4 2012, 09:51 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
Hi, just wondering what is the recommended sequence for installing window tint, alarm wiring, grill, paint, and wet works patch up after all the hacking for alarm wiring done? Izit like this:

1. window tint
2. alarm wiring - hacking and laying the wire
3. wet works patch up
4. paint
5. grill
6. fix alarm pieces onto the grill (for those vibration mode sensor)?

Another question, when do we actually put up the grill, should we put the grill 1st thing after getting the keys then only start all the wet works renovation... or do all the wet works renovation 1st then only put the grill up? Sorry, newbie to reno here, tend to ask a lot of stupid questions blush.gif Hope to get you guys feedbacks on this. Thanks!
cheekily
post Nov 8 2012, 12:39 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(sovietmah @ Nov 6 2012, 10:52 AM)
Windows tint suppose to be the last right?
I think wetwork/hacking always the first one.
then grill
then alarm system
Wall Paint and windows tint last.
*
Thanks for the advice, sovietmah! smile.gif
cheekily
post Mar 6 2013, 09:37 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
Hi Tomjason,

Need some help/advice here. House just finish reno, sink (topmount type) just installed undermount style on concrete countertop with tiles. However, got leaking problem, when using the sink to wash plates, water will seep through the connection between sink and tile/concrete countertop. Called the wet works contractor, he came and just applied 1 layer of glue around the sink perimeter (connected to the tiles). But said problem will occur again one...how come like that? How to make sure that it won't leak again and again in the future? Ideas and suggestions from others are welcomed too. icon_question.gif
cheekily
post Apr 18 2013, 03:40 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
Hi tomjason,

My bathroom is divided into 2 areas, wet (shower place) and dry. In between is a wall and window to separate the 2 areas. I ask the contractor to remove all the fixed glass louvre panels because they look old-fashion and hard to clean (need to clean 1 glass piece at a time), and replace with a flat piece of tempered glass instead. But didn't realize that after removing the original glass panels and glass frame holders, the screw holes in the main aluminium frame will be so obvious. Any idea how to cover them up? Need it to be water proof, so that when wash the bathroom, the water won't seep in the holes...and also won't come out when scrub/wash with the green colour scrubber (the type that use to clean the sink). Contractor said to cement up the holes and paint, worried that it may end up looking even uglier and paint may come out when scrub with the green colour scrubber rclxub.gif Any idea what to do? Please advice... Others are also welcomed to comment. Thanks!

user posted image

This post has been edited by cheekily: Apr 18 2013, 03:43 PM
cheekily
post Apr 19 2013, 10:30 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(tomjason @ Apr 18 2013, 08:20 PM)
hi,

for your case easy to seal the hole..you can use rivet to seal it..to be specific 'pop rivet'........you cannot seal it with cement or filler..it will tanggal..how can your contractor said to cement it.....
*
Hi tomjason,

Thanks so much for your advice. That's why I was a bit skeptical when he said to cement up... I searched online, does the 'pop rivet' looks like this? Also, which type should I go for...seems like got flat head, round head type, how big/long, material (stainless steel?), etc... sweat.gif
user posted image

How to use the pop rivet? Can I just hammer it in using normal hammer or need to buy this type of special tool (found online also):
user posted image

After the pop rivet is inside the hole, will it be water proof and cover the hole completely, or still need to cover up with sealant or something? Also, will it be flat against the aluminium frame, or will have the head sticking out like sticks/little pins (based on the 1st picture above)? Please advice... Thanks!

This post has been edited by cheekily: Apr 19 2013, 10:42 AM
cheekily
post Apr 19 2013, 11:38 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
Just found more info online, hmm...need the special tool to insert in the pop rivet. And it's the thicker top part of the pop rivet (in picture above) that goes into the hole and ends at it's disc-like head, while the bottom part/stick of the pop rivet will tanggal. blush.gif

tomjason, which type of pop rivet do you recommend? Any brand/model/dimension/material to go for? Also, do we need to put some sealant/glue 1st before inserting the pop rivet into the hole (to make sure water won't seep through the pop rivet's disc-like head? icon_question.gif
cheekily
post Apr 21 2013, 12:49 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
129 posts

Joined: Jun 2011
QUOTE(tomjason @ Apr 19 2013, 08:29 PM)
yes..the image is rivet. below is the rivet gun is use to embedded the rivet using that gun.Put the rivet in the gun and press the gun till you hear 'pop', the tail of the rivet 'tanngal' and the body embedded..that came the name of 'pop' rivet.. biggrin.gif

there many type of rivet, size, short and long, aluminium and stainless steel, flat type or round type head etc.....but in hardware shop normally not many type sell...you can buy the rivet and gun at the hardware shop or ACE hardware (ACE hardware a bit expensive).you must select the best rivet suit to the hole based on hole size and hole depth.

for your case..use can use flat type head and aluminium material type cause in toilet (to avoid rust)..use 'closed end rivet' (this type is water proof cause the end closed so no water can get inside)...

if you hv no clue..just use screw to seal the hole...lagi senang...then paint the screw or u can get SS screw or GI screw

gd luck..
*
Hi tomjason,

Thanx again for ur advice smile.gif

 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0241sec    0.50    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 3rd December 2025 - 10:26 AM