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 Jeff's Journal, Back to training

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whatdamn
post Sep 8 2012, 12:27 PM

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Good stuff on the climbing. I'd like to suggest a few tweaks to your strength training routine though.

the high reps you're doing will mostly help with achieving hypertrophy which is not something you want in climbing. what you need from my point of view is to increase your strength and rock climbing being a very prominent 'pull' movement type of sport, this is where your focus should be.

you've already got pull-ups which is good but the volume is not sufficient. if you aren't able to knock 5 pull-ups in a row, make the reps low but increase the number of sets you do. i'd aim for at least 5 sets of 10's and do them twice a week to get a total of 100 reps a week. doesn't matter if you're doing kipping or strict pull-ups.

you will also want to improve grip strength and this is where the deadlift and DB bent-over rows will help. for the deadlift, you need to keep the weights high (75%/80%/90% of 1 rep max[RM]) while keeping the reps low. you can go for 8's, 3's and singles as you increase the weights. as for DB rows, keep them as heavy as possible to go for 15-20 reps, your grip strength will improve and your back will grow.

i see that you have added the BB squat which is good as this will help you work your stabilizers because you'll need balance in rock climbing i should think. as far as how much weight, i'd keep it as accessory work so about 50%/60%/70% for 10 reps. you cna consider adding BB front squats at a slightly lower weight than your deadlift/squat as more accesory work.

you will also need to ensure shoulder health as well and should therefore train external rotation.

hope this helps you add some competitive edge in your next competition.

 

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