14/4/2012

Rock Climbing
Endurance Training:
Lead Wall Traversing
35 moves x 1

Beginner Bouldering Wall Traversing
15 moves x 2

Technique Training:
Lead Climb Route 1:
Technique: Smear and Bridge
Grade: 6a+
Clear: Yes (1 time rest at 80%)

Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Twist lock and Body twist
Difficulty: 3/5
Attempts: 2/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Twist lock
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 5/10
Clear: No

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Dynamic and Twist lock
Difficulty: 3/5
Attempts: 2/10
Clear: Yes

Move Training:
Technique: Dyno
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 25
Clear: No

15/4/2012

Rock Climbing
Endurance Training:
Lead Wall Traversing
35 moves x 1

Beginner Bouldering Wall Traversing
15 moves x 2

Power Training:
Sloper Pull Ups
3 x 3 x BW

Pinch Pull Ups
3 x 3 x BW

Campus Board Deadhang (Full crimp)
10sec

Technique Training:
Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Cross lock and Dyno
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 1/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Side pull and Cross lock
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 5/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Dynamic and Cross lock
Difficulty: 3/5
Attempts: 2/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Pinch and Sloper
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 4/10
Clear: No

16/4/2012

Bad day today. Taking longer rest between sets.

Chest:
BB Bench Press:
10 x 2 x 42kg
8 x 2 x 42kg

DB Flat Bench Press:
10 x 1 x 19kg
8 x 3 x 19kg

DB Incline Bench Press:
6 x 2 x 19kg
4 x 2 x 19kg

DB Decline Bench Press:
6 x 2 x 19kg
4 x 2 x 19kg

DB Fly:
6 x 3 x 14kg

Shoulders:
Seated BB Shoulder Press:
8 x 2 x 26kg
6 x 2 x 26kg

Reverse Fly:
10 x 2 x 7kg
8 x 2 x 7kg

BB Shrugs:
20 x 1 x 42kg
16 x 1 x 42kg
16 x 1 x 42kg

Cardio:
40sec Each
15sec Rest

Star Jump
Bicycle (2kg)
Leg Raise
Prone Cobra
Stationary Sprint
High Knees
Suicides
Ab Wipes
Knee to Elbow Planks
Russian Twist (2kg)
Squats (2kg)
Rope Skip

17/4/2012

Lower back really sore from Back exercise. Gonna maintain same weight for sometime.

Abs (Superset):
10sec Rest

Crunch (2kg)
Flutter Kick (2kg)
Scissors (2kg)
Double Crunch (2kg)
Side Ankle Touch
Decline Sit Ups (2kg)
Leg Lift
10 x 2 x BW (Each)

Leg Lift Hold:
12sec x 2 x BW

Plank Hold:
Side Plank Hold:
60sec x 2 x BW

Back:
Wide Grip Pull Ups:
7 x 3 x BW

One Arm Row:
10 x 3 x 18kg
8 x 2 x 18kg

BB Bend Over Row:
10 x 4 x 35kg

Biceps:
DB Alternate Curls:
7 x 2 x 14kg
6 x 2 x 14kg

DB Alternate Hammer Curls:
6 x 4 x 14kg

Concentration Curls
9 x 1 x 10kg
7 x 2 x 10kg

Cardio:
40sec Each
15sec Rest

Star Jump
Crunches (2kg)
Leg Raise
Prone Cobra
Stationary Sprint
High Knees
Suicides
Ab Wipes
Knee to Elbow Planks
Russian Twist (2kg)
Squats (2kg)
Rope Skip

18/4/2012

Just not my day...

Rock Climbing
[B]Power Training:
Sloper Pull Ups
4 x 1 x BW
3 x 1 x BW

Pinch Pull Ups
4 x 1 x BW
3 x 1 x BW

Campus Board Deadhang (Full crimp)
10sec x 2 x BW

Technique Training:
Lead Climb Route 1:
Technique: Smear and Bridge
Grade: 6a+
Clear: No

Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Footwork
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 3/10
Clear: No

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Bridge
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 2/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Campus and Side Pull
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 1/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Pocket and Rock over
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 6/10
Clear: No

Boulder Route 5:
Technique: Crimp and Twist lock
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 5/10
Clear: No

Move Training:
Technique: Dyno
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 3
Clear: No

Technique: Side Dyno
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 5
Clear: No

12/4/2012

BB Squats, Hack Squats and Lunges are still a no go. =/

Legs:
BB Deadlift:
10 x 4 x 28kg
8 x 2 x 28kg

Calve Raise:
20 x 6 x 28kg

Triceps:
DB Seated Triceps Extension:
8 x 4 x 14kg

Close Grip Bench Press:
12 x 4 x 18kg

BB Lying Triceps Extension:
8 x 2 x 18kg
6 x 2 x 18kg

Triceps Kickback:
8 x 2 x 13kg
6 x 2 x 13kg

Cardio:
45sec Each
15sec Rest

Star Jump
Bicycle (2.5kg)
Leg Raise
Prone Cobra
Stationary Sprint
High Knees
Suicides
Ab Wipes
Knee to Elbow Planks
Russian Twist (2.5kg)
Squats (2.5kg)
Stationary Hop

21/4/2012

Just bought my new climbing shoes for competition. I'm all set

Rock Climbing
Technique Training:
Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Rock over
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 3/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Heel hook and Rock over
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 6/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Dynamic movement
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 1/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Twist lock and Rock over
Difficulty: 4.5/5
Attempts: 4/10
Clear: No

Boulder Route 5:
Technique: Crimp and Twist lock
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 4/10
Clear: No

22/4/2012

Had climbing technique and movement course.

Rock Climbing
Technique Training:
Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Footwork and Arm strength
Difficulty: 4.5/5
Attempts: 3/10
Clear: No

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Balancing and Smearing
Difficulty: 3/5
Attempts: 1/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Hand grip and Rock over
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 2/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Hand switching and Rock over
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 1/10
Clear: Yes

Boulder Route 5:
Technique: Core strength and Rock over
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 3/10
Clear: No

26/4/2012

Need more endurance.

Rock Climbing
Competition Training:
5 Boulder Routes
3min each
2min rest

Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Twist lock and Body twist
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 4/10
Progress: (90%)

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Cross and Side pull
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Heel hook and Balancing
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 3/10
Progress: (90%)

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Crimp and Bridge
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 3/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 5:
Technique: Overhang and Heel hook
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 4/10
Progress: (40%)

Technique Training:
Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Endurance and Balancing
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (90%)

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Power and Balancing
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Cross and Dynamic
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 4/10
Progress: (90%)

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Power and Heel hook
Difficulty: 4.5/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (10%)

This post has been edited by Killerjeff88: Apr 26 2012, 12:16 AM

27/4/2012

Good progress today.

Rock Climbing
Technique Training:
Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Cross and Rock pull
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 7/10
Progress: (90%)

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Power and Cross
Difficulty: 3/5
Attempts: 1/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Dynamic and Balancing
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 4/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Heel hook
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 6/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 5:
Technique: Knee drop and Cross
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 1/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 6:
Technique: Balancing and Cross
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 5/10
Progress: (100%)

This post has been edited by Killerjeff88: Apr 28 2012, 10:59 PM

28/4/2012

5 more training days before competition.

Rock Climbing
Technique Training:
Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Heel hook and Flag
Difficulty: 4.5/5
Attempts: 7/10
Progress: (70%)

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Cross and Power
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 4/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Mental and Balancing
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Heel hook
Difficulty: 4.5/5
Attempts: 4/10
Progress: (10%)

[B]Power Training:
Campus Board Pull Up Hold (Open crimp)
5sec x 1 x BW
8sec x 1 x BW
10sec x 2 x BW

Pinch Pull Up Hold
10sec x 2 x BW

Sloper Pull Up Hold
10sec x 2 x BW

1/5/2012

Injury due to incorrect technique used to Dyno


Rock Climbing
Endurance Training:
Boulder Wall Traversing
35 moves x 1

Beginner Bouldering Wall Traversing
50 moves x 2

7 Boulder Routes in 12min
Route 1 Difficulty: 2.5/5
Route 2 Difficulty: 2.5/5
Route 3 Difficulty: 3/5
Route 4 Difficulty: 2.5/5
Route 5 Difficulty: 2.5/5
Route 6 Difficulty: 3/5
Route 7 Difficulty: 3/5

Technique Training:
Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Cross and Balancing
Difficulty: 3/5
Attempts: 1/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Cross and Rock over
Difficulty: 3/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Balancing and Mental
Difficulty: 3/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Dynamic
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 5:
Technique: Dynamic
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 6/10
Progress: (90%)

Boulder Route 6: (Injury)
Technique: Dyno
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 1/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 7:
Technique: Overhang and Cross
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 1/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 8:
Technique: Footwork
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (90%)

Boulder Route 9:
Technique: Balancing
Difficulty: 3/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 10:
Technique: Dynamic and Heel hook
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 5/10
Progress: (90%)

Power Training:
Hangboard Pull Up Hold (Open crimp)
10sec x 4 x BW
6sec x 1 x BW

This post has been edited by Killerjeff88: May 1 2012, 11:42 PM

Hope you'll recover in time for your competition. Cheers

thanks man. will be resting for 2-3 days before i continue training.

5/5/2012

Rock Climbing
Endurance Training:
Lead Wall Traversing
35 moves x 2

Technique Training:
Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Heel hook and Side pull
Difficulty: 4.5/5
Attempts: 19/10 (i know i shouldn't go over 10 but i cant give up)
Progress: (90%)

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Dyno and Knee drop
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 1/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Dyno and Balancing
Difficulty: 3.5/5
Attempts: 1/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Heel hook and Balancing
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 4/10
Progress: (90%)

6/5/2012

Feel like im letting everyone down. Trainers are saying that i could pass the preliminaries and enter the finals for my category but i didnt complete a lot of routes during training which i should be able to do them by now. Competition on Friday, gotta wake up!!!

Rock Climbing
Endurance Training:
Advance Boulder Wall Traversing
35 moves x 1

Technique Training:
Boulder Route 1:
Technique: Cross and Dynamic
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 3/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 2:
Technique: Cross and Strength
Difficulty: 4/5
Attempts: 2/10
Progress: (100%)

Boulder Route 3:
Technique: Crimp and Side Pull
Difficulty: 4.5/5
Attempts: 3/10
Progress: (10%)

Boulder Route 4:
Technique: Balancing and Footwork
Difficulty: 5/5
Attempts: 4/10
Progress: (10%)

Boulder Route 5:
Technique: Dynamic and Locking
Difficulty: 4.5/5
Attempts: 8/10
Progress: (10%)

This post has been edited by Killerjeff88: May 6 2012, 11:22 PM

No more training. Resting up for Friday competition at Singapore.
Time to benchmark my skills.

Climbing Wall is almost done. Will be heading to Singapore tmr. Competition is on 11th May.
Dont think im truly ready for it yet but im going to benchmark myself nevertheless.



This post has been edited by Killerjeff88: May 9 2012, 10:00 PM

Didnt do well on Climbing Competition.
Got 91st place out of 188 participants and didnt make it to the top 8 finals.
It was my first ever competition tho and its a World Cup Standard Competition.
At least it was a great experience and I get to meet and take photos with World Cup Climbers
Now back to training for Malaysia Competition on 26th n 27th May!

Malaysia Climbers Achievements:
2nd place Men Novice.
2nd place Female Novice.
4th place Men Intermediate.
2nd place Men Open.

Really proud of them

This post has been edited by Killerjeff88: May 19 2012, 07:27 PM

Route Setters for the Competition:


Kim DongHyun (World Top 4 Route Setter and Chief Route Setter)


Yuji Hirayama (Climbing World Cup Champion 1998 and 2000)


Will upload more pics when my friend gets back from Singapore.

This post has been edited by Killerjeff88: May 14 2012, 08:36 PM