I'm excited to see so many choc lovers in this forum. I'm somewhat of a chocolate surveyor, (other passion is durian surveyor), and i'm happy to share my findings of chocoalte brands.
First thing to understand about chocolate is that bitterness in chocolate is not desirable. Chocolate comes from cocoa, which is a tropical fruit (just like coffee berries). A good chocolate must be made from quality beans. The best beans that are produced are not sold in the commodity market, and they have to be booked or sold via contract. So only the reputable chocolate makers will buy them because of the higher price per tonne.
Good cocoa bean is like fine wine, it can be complex, it has character and flavours that are multi-faceted. So the chocolate maker's objective is to retain and bring out as much as possible the bean's complexity and flavours. This is done by careful processing, especially roasting, as over-roasting will produce a bitter chocolate.
To achieve bitterness, it is easy and cheap to do, start with a lousy bean (or broken beans with twigs, leaves, etc) and then over-roast at high temperature. Done.
A good test before buying any chocolate is to ask this question: where is your bean origin. If they say something like Belgium, Swiss, French, then they are clueless, as none of these countries grow cocoa. The more premium chocolates (one in Royce's offering, several in Lindt, most in Amedei, just an example) are single origin. Meaning all the beans come from one region, and I don't consider a country a reagion.
Also a higher % doesn't mean better quality. It just means more cocoa and less sugar. A 75% choc means 25% sugar (roughly, after subtracting vanilla and emulsifing agent, if any.) Read the ingredient list too, if the first ingredient is sugar, put it back on the shelf, because ingredient list is sorted by most first.
Difference between choc maker and chocolatier: Chocolate makers will acquire beans, clean, roast, winnow (deshell), mill / grind, blend, conch in the process to make chocolate. Chocolatiers most likely acquire chocolate and process into confections, by melting, tempering, flavoring, making ganache, etc.
Chocolate, Q&A about chocolate
Dec 8 2014, 10:16 PM
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