*New owner(Start 18th January 2011) or potential owner plz PM me with = "LYN nick (color) " - easier to manage
New car collection checklist
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Locks Keyless Entry (Lock and unlock using remote) Manual Entry (Lock and unlock using key) Master Lock Individual Lock Alarm Alarm reset switch
Windows Power Windows(Check that the driver side auto window is working) Windows control Lock
Electric Mirrors Electric Mirrors Control ( Up, Down, Left & Right ) Folding Mirrors(Check that the Mirrors can be retractable by either manual or electrical folding.)
Console Engine Start Button (if any) Air-Conditioning Fan Speeds Rear Demister Radio/CD/DVD Player Reverse Camera (if any) Steering controls (if any)
Switches Headlights Directional Signals High Beam Hazard Lights Parking Lights Tail Lights Brake Lights Fog Lamps Interior light Wiper (Make sure each speed is correct) Wiper Spray Horn
Dashboard Dashboard lights come on when headlights are on Information lights (eg. Parking brake ) are lit at relevant time Check that odometer does not display excessive mileage
Things to look out for: Test auto-transmission for shock while engaging gear. Make sure that the brake has to be depressed to shift out of Park mode. Make sure that the car can only start in Neutral or Park mode.
Other Interiors Steering wheel properly aligned Steering wheel adjusting lever Bonnet release lever Boot release lever Fuel tank release lever Check for stains and holes on seats Seat adjuster (Forward, backward, recline) Seat belts (Check that the Seat belts lock when pulled hard) Seat belts height adjuster Check for scratches and dents on the trims Rear Mirror
How to "Break In" Your Car Engine Tint Infrared(IRR) - for heat penetration , recommend aprox 90% Visible Light Transmition (VLT) - JPJ approval must not be less than 70% Air Cool -> Strongly Recommended please join Look in MyForte club for further info V-KOOL 3M Window Films LLumar Automotive Window Films Raytech Window Films
Maintenance Comparison Table maintenance price list as at 1/1/2011
FAQ by Cyberkewl:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Frequently Asked Questions About Naza/KIA Forte v1.0 Written By CyberKewl a.k.a MLBL
Q: How much does the Forte Costs? A: The latest / current price for the Forte costs RM 78,800 for the 1.6 EX, RM 85,800 for the 1.6 SX, RM 97,800 for the 2.0 SX
Q: Which trim/version of the forte is most worth it to buy? A: The SX version is the most bang for buck, whether you're going for the 1.6 or 2.0 SX. If you can spare the cash for the road tax cost of the 2.0, go for it (approx < RM 400). The 1.6 SX has extra goodies such as reverse camera, paddle shifters (!!), stability control programmes such as EBD, CBC, BAS, TCS (the 1.6 EX only has ABS), 6 CD changer, Electric folding mirrors, Keyless entry & start/stop engine button, full auto aircond system, Front fog lamps. On the other hand the 2.0 SX has an improved Motor Driven Power Steering, Cruise Control, Leather seats, side & curtain airbags (and of course, a 2 Litre engine!). Ultimately if you're alright with the lower spec EX which does not have the full stability control programmes and on a tight budget, its still a steal compared to many other cars in the market.
Q: How is the resale value of the KIA Forte? I heard Korean cars have bad resale value. A: Now this is often debated in the forums and almost everywhere else. Firstly, the KIA Forte is the newest generation or batch of KIA cars in which KIA is trying to get rid of their bad image or perception of korean cars being cheap, unreliable, soulless, fuel guzzers and uninspiring. The resale value of the KIA forte is still being examined and determined by market forces, so it is still somewhat unclear where it stands at the moment. We'd have to wait at least 3-5 years before passing judgement on resale value. Comparing to the standard Toyota & Honda cars (lets call them T&H from now on), KIA cars in Malaysia will definitely have a much lower resale value compared to T&H.
However, lets put it this way, the Forte is priced at the range of Toyota Vios and Honda City but with better equipment, specification and the vehicle itself is in a higher segment compared to those two cars (Forte is a C segment car while the Vios & City are both B segment cars). With this being said, since Forte has more value for money, even with a lower resale value (should it come to that), it is still worth it right? Because you get to drive a car that has a lot more features, is more roomy and has great looks to boot! All for the same price (the 1.6 SX) as the highest spec Toyota Vios G (highest non-TRD spec)! Designed by world-renowed ex-audi designer Peter Schreyer, this new KIA car is a force to be reckoned with!
Q: I've heard that Naza's after sales service is terrible/horrible, is this true? A: If you're referring to bad Service Centres, there are some that do not give a more professional service to customers, but you can go to other service centres should the service rendered by the one that you've visited is not up to par. Two of the highly recommended service centres in the Forums are the ones in Jalan Chan Sow Lin and Selayang. Remember, you only need to service your car once every 3 - 6 months depending on the type of engine oil you choose and if going to a much further one but more professional service centre is going to give you better satisfaction, why not? After all, its only once every 3 - 6 months not every 3 - 6 days or every 3 - 6 weeks even!
On the other hand, if you're referring to the parts delivery for warranty, the parts may take time to arrive depending on the demand and I believe once there are more Forte's on the road, the availability of the parts should be more abundant.
Q: How is the Forte's Fuel Consumption? Is it good / better than say a Toyota Vios / Honda City? A: Forte's fuel consumption is reasonable for a C segment car which weighs about 1.3 tonnes. Varies between 6L/100KM to 11L/100KM depending on driving conditions and your right leg. I am currently still on my first service on my Forte 1.6 SX FL 6 Speed and the FC ranges between 8.35L/100KM to 10L/100KM (before first service it was 10L/100KM). Road conditions are mixed at about 80% highway / 20% city with occassional spirited driving using paddle shifters. If your route consists mostly traffic jams with stop-and-go type of traffic, I believe the Forte would not give you a reasonable fuel consumption (possibly between 10L-11L/100KM). One of the reasons why the fuel consumption is not as good as Toyota Vios and Honda City is because the Vios weighs about 1075KG while the Honda City weighs about 1100 KG which is 200 Kilos lighter than the Forte. That being said, with the car weighing at 1.3 tonnes, it helps in ensuring the stability of the car during cornering and also helps during accidents. Which is why the Forte was awarded by the Insurance Institute For Highway Safety (IIHS) as the "Top Safety Pick" for 2010. Honestly speaking, if you are into good fuel consumption but just want an everyday car to drive from point A to point B, just get a Toyota Vios. Its boring, it has good fuel efficiency, simple, nothing to shout about. But if you're looking for a really great car, look no further. Don't dwell too much on the fuel consumption and you will be rewarded with an amazing drive and a safe car to take you and your family all the way to your destination.
Q: How many years is the warranty on the Forte? A: The forte comes with a 5 years unlimited mileage warranty which consists of 2 years from Naza KIA and 3 years from Allianz Insurance (do not worry, you don't have to buy your car insurance from Allianz to be entitled for the remaining 3 years of warranty).
Q: Are the maintenance costs for the Forte high compared to cars of similar price range? A: Not at all. Comparing to some cars of similar price range such as the Vios & City, Forte's maintenance cost is probably the lowest among them. Also do take note that if you're planning to buy a Honda City or any Honda car for that matter, honda requires you to service your car at 3 month intervals regardless of the engine oil that you are using be it mineral or synthetic oil. This would mean higher maintenance costs. For more details and comparison with other cars, google for "Forte Maintenance Comparison Chart".
Q: Is the forte safe? A: Definitely. The top of the range 2.0 SX with 2 frontal airbags and 4 side/curtain airbags, stability programmes such as ABS, EBD, CBC, BAS, TCS was awarded by the Insurance Institute of Highway Safety as the "Top safety pick" for 2010. With a weight of 1.3 tonnes, the Forte is definitely a lot safer than other famous budget cars such as the Toyota Vios and Honda City.
Hi Forte owners, I quite hooked to Kia Forte and planning to get one soon, however I got minor details to ask before deciding on it.
Did anyone here bought the car with only 10% front payment? I'm gettin this as my 1st car so need so details on the loan package and else. I prefer talk in PM because not good la spam here ,so forte owner please drop me a Pm if you can help me.
got mine (1.6sx) from KS Loh seri kembangan. got it juz 3 days after loan agreement signing. took around 4 days for loan to approve. so all in around 1 and a half weeks to get the car haha.
got mine (1.6sx) from KS Loh seri kembangan. got it juz 3 days after loan agreement signing. took around 4 days for loan to approve. so all in around 1 and a half weeks to get the car haha.
My Forte seems to be drinking petrol quite badly 1st tank 85 bucks lasted me 450KM 2nd tank 91 bucks oni lasted me 408KM 3tank pumped yesterday 84 bucks, 40km now needle starting to drop ady
My Forte seems to be drinking petrol quite badly 1st tank 85 bucks lasted me 450KM 2nd tank 91 bucks oni lasted me 408KM 3tank pumped yesterday 84 bucks, 40km now needle starting to drop ady
Plz help!!
how old is your car in months and your driving conditions city % highway %
yesterday i just back from kia showroom in klang, i already planning want to buy 1.6SX model. before i make decision to buy this car, i want to ask something.
1. if i want to buy this car, i want to know about the kia forte services whether it expensive or not??
2. it there any problem about this car?like power window failure like proton car or others problem?
3. if i want to sell back after buy it, how about the value of this car??because most of car like naza ria or citra, the value when to sell back is quite low...
please help me to make decision on this matters, thanks.
Planning to get Kia Forte 1.6, should i go for EX or SX and i wonder their after sales service is good or not and is the replacement parts easy to get?
economical EX, more features SX, pat chest, ask taste... their after sales service is subjective but if u from KL/SEL i can recommend a good one. replacement parts also subjective, brg pelik2 need to wait 2-4 weeks (import from kia korea), brg simple2 max 2 weeks (gurun mari)... now forte CKD aldy, even front windscreen, dr cermin pun ada supply...
QUOTE(aiden.azari @ Feb 2 2012, 09:59 PM)
1. if i want to buy this car, i want to know about the kia forte services whether it expensive or not?? 2. it there any problem about this car?like power window failure like proton car or others problem? 3. if i want to sell back after buy it, how about the value of this car??because most of car like naza ria or citra, the value when to sell back is quite low...
1. go 1st page, search "Maintenance Comparison Table" (dunno whether year 2012 is still related or not but at least u can get a rough idea) 2. subjective, minor of coz ada but send it to SC to fix it. recently, mine just claimed the rear torsion bars after 2 years, although isn't a prob coz didn't affect handling but tayar makan sebelah very quick, since it can't be adjusted (although i read vice versa), belasah je la claim... 3. subjective, currently 2010 car value is 68-70k (2 years old) - or u can search mudah.my to get the idea...
the rest can read "FAQ by Cyberkewl" at 1st page...
This post has been edited by epo: Feb 2 2012, 11:17 PM
hmmm... then eat petrol jugak tu... 6spd & use full syn some more... maybe wait another 1-2k km... here owners not so aktif one after Mark Zuckerberg created fesbuk... u can go to our fesbuk group page & ask them...
I think I know what's my car's problem....very easy to find out why underpower...same as lots of 4speed 1.6SX users..... Did u all notice that 4 speed, when engine running hot, gearbox attempt shift slower and when is engine cold(cold start), it shift properly....sometimes when overtaking cars, it takes time to shift down gears, and sometimes when u accelerate, it keep on drag till for sometimes before engaging another gear....this happens when using car after few minutes when engine temperature rise to normal.... Even with stock rims, I still feel our 1.6SX Forte still powerful, but because of gear 'delay shift' which might do with gear ratio timing with accelerator not accurate....even though last week i sent my car to NAZAKIA Alor setar for checking due to underpower, they stated this problem to me, and told me they reset it back....after few days...same thing happen....I think might need install ATF cooling solution like KFC did....thinking of installing 1 in Alor Setar, but having hard time to find it, due to busy-ness.....
hmmm... then eat petrol jugak tu... 6spd & use full syn some more... maybe wait another 1-2k km... here owners not so aktif one after Mark Zuckerberg created fesbuk... u can go to our fesbuk group page & ask them...
Wat is the name of the FB page?? There are so many available
I think I know what's my car's problem....very easy to find out why underpower...same as lots of 4speed 1.6SX users..... Did u all notice that 4 speed, when engine running hot, gearbox attempt shift slower and when is engine cold(cold start), it shift properly....sometimes when overtaking cars, it takes time to shift down gears, and sometimes when u accelerate, it keep on drag till for sometimes before engaging another gear....this happens when using car after few minutes when engine temperature rise to normal.... Even with stock rims, I still feel our 1.6SX Forte still powerful, but because of gear 'delay shift' which might do with gear ratio timing with accelerator not accurate....even though last week i sent my car to NAZAKIA Alor setar for checking due to underpower, they stated this problem to me, and told me they reset it back....after few days...same thing happen....I think might need install ATF cooling solution like KFC did....thinking of installing 1 in Alor Setar, but having hard time to find it, due to busy-ness.....
Have you tried switching to a synthetic atf? Also, another thing you could try is having your throttle body cleaned.
The mineral atf in our Fortes aren't that great, imo.
Hi Guys, Wanna check where u guys fix or install windscreen? Mine crack and fix with Dr Cermin for the time being. But dunno how long can last. the other day Mr. Arul mentioned that to fix in SC will cost approximately RM2400 or RM2800. Hope you guys can give some insight or alternatives here. Thanks in advance
My Forte seems to be drinking petrol quite badly 1st tank 85 bucks lasted me 450KM 2nd tank 91 bucks oni lasted me 408KM 3tank pumped yesterday 84 bucks, 40km now needle starting to drop ady
Plz help!!
i think u should switch the view to instant fuel consumption, so you will know how heavy your foot press the pedal
Have you tried switching to a synthetic atf? Also, another thing you could try is having your throttle body cleaned.
The mineral atf in our Fortes aren't that great, imo.
i not sure my ATF synthetic o mineral(caltex brand)...but i do change it every 20k...throttle body clean??/ i think i need consult SC.....heard from american, they asked me drain n flush transmission....i dunno wat that means oso...
mineral replace every 30k km, if using fully syn (like shell atf) can last until how many km ?
I think for best performance better change every 20k km. I don't know about traffic in your area, but in Klang Valley, anyone who commutes to work in the morning and evening traffic should classify their cars as "extreme environment" and service their cars more regularly.
Even though a car's mileage may be low because the car hardly moves in a jam but the engine is still turning, so is the torque converter.
I think a forumer is selling fully synthetic Korean car atf at mineral atf prices, maybe you can pujuk your SC to switch to this for you. Maybe have to pay a "corkage" fee
Added on February 3, 2012, 2:36 pm
QUOTE(XionCity @ Feb 3 2012, 01:56 PM)
i not sure my ATF synthetic o mineral(caltex brand)...but i do change it every 20k...throttle body clean??/ i think i need consult SC.....heard from american, they asked me drain n flush transmission....i dunno wat that means oso...
Basically, flushing out the GB means draining out the old atf, then use new atf to flush out the remainder of the old atf, meaning new atf goes in, mixes with the remainder of the old atf, then flush out. Repeat a few times until the atf is clear. Normally will use around double or more of the GB's fluid capacity's worth of atf. Quite costly but cheaper than a rebuild.
As for cleaning of TB, it's due to the fact that the GB and engine have sensors that are read by the ECU and if the sensors are dirty they may give a wrong reading and affect the engine-GB synergy.
I suggest changing over to synthetic atf first then see how it goes. You can buy ThreeBond throttle body foam and clean the TB yourself.
After that, if still not satisfied, try adding a Fire Storm ignition booster
This post has been edited by gregy: Feb 3 2012, 02:36 PM
I think for best performance better change every 20k km. I don't know about traffic in your area, but in Klang Valley, anyone who commutes to work in the morning and evening traffic should classify their cars as "extreme environment" and service their cars more regularly.
i didn't drive the car to work but only used it for a long distance like outstation or balik kampung... mileage clocked 26k km for 23 mths i'm riding a bike to ofis everyday... so back to the question, even use syn gb oil still need to change follow mineral oil punya duration ?
Need to ask about warranty.. What do basically/most people do that can void the warranty? And also, do put full bodykit, change emblem or replace screen double din at dash board effects warranty? Thanks
i didn't drive the car to work but only used it for a long distance like outstation or balik kampung... mileage clocked 26k km for 23 mths i'm riding a bike to ofis everyday... so back to the question, even use syn gb oil still need to change follow mineral oil punya duration ?
I suppose if you use synthetic atf you could extend the intervals. After all, 60k km intervals can be considered more than needed, even for mineral (since this GB is supposed to be maintenance free).
Ultimately, the best gauge is your own butt feel. After changing, you will possibly notice an improvement in gearchange and a smoother overall performance (mine has little or no whining sound after switching to synth atf). When the performance starts to deteriorate according to your butt dyno, baru tukar lah.
However, for me, because this is my first time changing over to synthetic atf, and I didn't flush out the mineral oil, I will change it soon (mine's already 21k km less than a year lol). Then subsequently I will extend the drain intervals.
This post has been edited by gregy: Feb 3 2012, 03:30 PM
And also, do put full bodykit, change emblem or replace screen double din at dash board effects warranty?
it's subjective anyway... u can do/mod anything u want but be advised to keep the ori part. if something happen, restore it back... so far bodykit, emblem no issue but the din 50-50 since its tampered existing wiring... if do outside, need a good w/shop not 'brothers' type...
QUOTE(gregy @ Feb 3 2012, 03:28 PM)
I suppose if you use synthetic atf you could extend the intervals. After all, 60k km intervals can be considered more than needed, even for mineral (since this GB is supposed to be maintenance free). Ultimately, the best gauge is your own butt feel. When the performance starts to deteriorate according to your butt dyno, baru tukar lah.
wow 60k km...? the manual stated 45k km but major owners follow SC recommendation which is 30k km... this GB is maintenance free meaning no gear filter change is needed ? just flush like that...? ok la will switch to syn after this...
This post has been edited by epo: Feb 3 2012, 03:35 PM
Will Naza launch any updated Forte this year with some changes or this 6 speed version is the last of it's kind before the all new model is launched in Korea
driving ex. fc so so about rm10 +-55. as expected because bigger car compare to it's rival. pickup quite good because 16" rim and 6speed. feel very comfortable with the car.
hahaha... itu taiko mod xioncity cannot challenge him la... now mau install ATF cooler lakkk... if he drive, rpm never below 5k... payyyyy... oil filter + engine oil jeee...
driving ex. fc so so about rm10 +-55. as expected because bigger car compare to it's rival. pickup quite good because 16" rim and 6speed. feel very comfortable with the car.
Wow, that's not too far from my 2.0 SX 6-sp. My typical mileage is around 10.3 litres / 100km, translated to your calculation method, RM10.88 per 55km, or RM10 per 50.5km compared to your 9.47 litres / 100km.
This means, for every 500km travelled, I use 4.15 litres more fuel, or RM8.00 only. And I take one hour to reach my office in SS2 from Subang USJ five days a week, giving me an average speed reading of around 22-27km/h (extra urban cycle).
But to be honest I don't think that's right as I believe the 1.6EX should be more efficient than that.
How about the payment? and when should i do my 1st service (Forte SX)?
Pay via cash boleh, card pun boleh... pay via cheque, 999 gold bar, IBG, 3rd party transfer takleh... Go when ur odometer show 1k km... U never read ur manual / service book mehhh...???
Anyone trade in your 17" rim & tyre to 16"? How much does it cost or got back some pocket money since 16" should be cheaper right? Mind to share the details?
Any significant fc improvement after change to small rim?
Jom esok mlm... Uptown Kota Damansara... Pay via cash boleh, card pun boleh... pay via cheque, 999 gold bar, IBG, 3rd party transfer takleh... Go when ur odometer show 1k km... U never read ur manual / service book mehhh...???
I didnt read the book.. >< i just put aside coz i dunno what is that
I didnt read the book.. >< i just put aside coz i dunno what is that
how old are you dude...you sound like this is your first car and don't know how to maintain a car or have zero knowledge (and not bothered to even look up on it). when i had my first car slightly 6 years ago i already started reading, researching how to maintain my car, what to do, learn stuff up..u should too...
I think I know what's my car's problem....very easy to find out why underpower...same as lots of 4speed 1.6SX users..... Did u all notice that 4 speed, when engine running hot, gearbox attempt shift slower and when is engine cold(cold start), it shift properly....sometimes when overtaking cars, it takes time to shift down gears, and sometimes when u accelerate, it keep on drag till for sometimes before engaging another gear....this happens when using car after few minutes when engine temperature rise to normal.... Even with stock rims, I still feel our 1.6SX Forte still powerful, but because of gear 'delay shift' which might do with gear ratio timing with accelerator not accurate....even though last week i sent my car to NAZAKIA Alor setar for checking due to underpower, they stated this problem to me, and told me they reset it back....after few days...same thing happen....I think might need install ATF cooling solution like KFC did....thinking of installing 1 in Alor Setar, but having hard time to find it, due to busy-ness.....
indeed i notice this from my test drive. i do agree 1.6 seems less willing to down shift... but 2.0 is ok thou
Anyone here got their dashboard noise fixed (1.6SX FL)? Mine experiencing noise/rattling around the right aircond vent near the cd player. Went to SC twice for fixing but still occurs after a few days, very annoying.
Any suggestion to get rid this annoying rattling sound or any good SC in Northern area to recommend. Thanks
Anyone here got their dashboard noise fixed (1.6SX FL)? Mine experiencing noise/rattling around the right aircond vent near the cd player. Went to SC twice for fixing but still occurs after a few days, very annoying.
Any suggestion to get rid this annoying rattling sound or any good SC in Northern area to recommend. Thanks
Same problem with my forte, try press down on top of the clock for short time and the sound will gone afterward. Sometime it works, but sometime not.
How much does it cost or got back some pocket money since 16" should be cheaper right? Mind to share the details? Any significant fc improvement after change to small rim?
unfortunately sad to say, it didn't work that way... kena top-up lagi ada laaa... from few owners that had be done it, yes improve fc but a little2 only... major improvement is more comfort & can hit many potholes as they like...
unfortunately sad to say, it didn't work that way... kena top-up lagi ada laaa... from few owners that had be done it, yes improve fc but a little2 only... major improvement is more comfort & can hit many potholes as they like... i bet 16 years old... kia jns penang...
Read a good review at MFC forum about that service center.
Very high possibility getting forte 2.0 if the Elantra 1.8 is over priced.. And no paddle shifters for me to play play.. Inspira not approve by wife..
how old are you dude...you sound like this is your first car and don't know how to maintain a car or have zero knowledge (and not bothered to even look up on it). when i had my first car slightly 6 years ago i already started reading, researching how to maintain my car, what to do, learn stuff up..u should too...
Because I dont even wanna care about it.. just wait ppl to tell me =.=' and this is my 1st car..
Today i am doing my first 1000km Service and Alignment at Glenmare. The technician checked and told me that my front left type was eaten due to pull left problem and suggest me to switch the front tyre with back tyre, no balancing is required as informed by him.
Below is the differences before and after the alignment:-
Before: Steering was hard to and required more energy to turn but very stable.
After: Steering was very loose and required more energy to turn/steer for same corner (about 360deg for U-Turn), steering not stable especially when hinter the uneven road, steering will vibrate. And steering will not auto turn back to original position after turning.
Do any fortezen here faced this before and is this normal? Help please !!!
BTW, any branch/ dealer open on Sunday near PJ area?
Today i am doing my first 1000km Service and Alignment at Glenmare. The technician checked and told me that my front left type was eaten due to pull left problem and suggest me to switch the front tyre with back tyre, no balancing is required as informed by him.
Below is the differences before and after the alignment:-
Before: Steering was hard to and required more energy to turn but very stable.
After: Steering was very loose and required more energy to turn/steer for same corner (about 360deg for U-Turn), steering not stable especially when hinter the uneven road, steering will vibrate. And steering will not auto turn back to original position after turning.
Do any fortezen here faced this before and is this normal? Help please !!!
BTW, any branch/ dealer open on Sunday near PJ area?
u mean the new glenmarie 3s centre? by right even switch shouldnt have this kind of issue...weird
That's true, i am in panic condition now. BTW, do you any idea which SC near PJ area is Open on Sunday. I can't wait till Wednesday.
Added on February 5, 2012, 12:37 am
The technician is doing alignment as well, maybe problem on alignment. Now my steering can't turn back to neutral/ original position after steer.
you should have drove back to the SC immediately when u noticed something weird with ur car..not sure which SC got open on sunday, your other alternative is to go to those 3rd party workshop but be careful make sure they dont potong u (charge u sky high)..find one u can trust or ask around
you should have drove back to the SC immediately when u noticed something weird with ur car..not sure which SC got open on sunday, your other alternative is to go to those 3rd party workshop but be careful make sure they dont potong u (charge u sky high)..find one u can trust or ask around
The Glenmarie branch open on Morning only while i am getting my car about 1.30pm.
The Glenmarie branch open on Morning only while i am getting my car about 1.30pm.
not much u can do then..try call up other branches nearby see if got open or not (those with alignment machine). worse case have to bring to 3rd party workshop to check and fork out money if u cant wait till wednesday
The technician checked and told me that my front left type was eaten due to pull left problem and suggest me to switch the front tyre with back tyre, no balancing is required as informed by him.
Did they show u the front left tire tread ?
QUOTE
BTW, any branch/ dealer open on Sunday near PJ area?
I think none but u can go to nazakia website and call the SC one by one. But I believe u can re-check & re-alignment at any trusted outside shop.
Did they show u the front left tire tread ? I think none but u can go to nazakia website and call the SC one by one. But I believe u can re-check & re-alignment at any trusted outside shop.
Recommend to sent for 3rd party workshop to re-check. Previously i have sent back my car to Selayang SC for Left pulling and alignment issue. They have done the alignment and some adjustment for the chamber but cant fully solve my problem. I sent my car to Glenmaire Sc, they event worst, simply ignore me and say that they have tested my car and my car's alignment are ok. Some more they stated that my car steering vibrate are due to i speed to fast.
End up i sent to 3rd party workshop to solve all the issue.
Recommend to sent for 3rd party workshop to re-check. Previously i have sent back my car to Selayang SC for Left pulling and alignment issue. They have done the alignment and some adjustment for the chamber but cant fully solve my problem. I sent my car to Glenmaire Sc, they event worst, simply ignore me and say that they have tested my car and my car's alignment are ok. Some more they stated that my car steering vibrate are due to i speed to fast.
End up i sent to 3rd party workshop to solve all the issue.
mind telling us which 3rd party shop u went and how much u paid to solve all the problems?
Did they show u the front left tire tread ? I think none but u can go to nazakia website and call the SC one by one. But I believe u can re-check & re-alignment at any trusted outside shop.
NO. They didn't show me the tire tread.
3rd Party Shop? Warranty won't void? And are they capability to to Forte's alignment? As i know, they need to reset something related to ESC / ETS after alignment? Money i don't mind to pay as long as my car back to normal.
This post has been edited by suai: Feb 5 2012, 09:24 AM
hi guys, hav any of you ever scrap speed bump? im scared my stock forte with bodykit too low la.. i alwaz serong2 and very slowly pass the bump.
hmmm... i dun have a bodykit installed but if always scrap bump, why now it's become std fitted in new forte... u road bump too high kot... or ur bodykit not follow specs...
QUOTE(Intel@Atom @ Feb 5 2012, 09:05 AM)
what kind of FC do you guys getting; best, average and worst FC results?
NO. They didn't show me the tire tread. 3rd Party Shop? Warranty won't void? And are they capability to to Forte's alignment? As i know, they need to reset something related to ESC / ETS after alignment?
u should ask them to show u the tread before let they done anything... try this... warranty not avoid if adjust alignment only, those few small SC also refer to outside shop if they dun have alignment machine... raydiance has a capability to do forte's alignment, had been tried/claimed by our few owners... reset something i'm not sure but they can advise u... or u refer to MDPS (Motor Driven Power Steering), only 2.0 have, 1.6 dun have...
hmmm... i dun have a bodykit installed but if always scrap bump, why now it's become std fitted in new forte... u road bump too high kot... or ur bodykit not follow specs... mine 2.0 6l/km - hway driving 110km/h until EOL 8l/km - mix driving (hway + city) 10l/km - city driving + rempit style... u should ask them to show u the tread before let they done anything... try this... warranty not avoid if adjust alignment only, those few small SC also refer to outside shop if they dun have alignment machine... raydiance has a capability to do forte's alignment, had been tried/claimed by our few owners... reset something i'm not sure but they can advise u... or u refer to MDPS (Motor Driven Power Steering), only 2.0 have, 1.6 dun have...
epo - any idea roughly how much they charge to fix the pull left alignment issue? from what i read in the ZTH thread that mention raydiance they need to import some special camber nuts for KIA..as far as i know camber nuts should not be costly, like less than RM 10..imported one will it cost a lot more?
epo - any idea roughly how much they charge to fix the pull left alignment issue?
They charged it exp, RM120 for the both nuts. Never bother to install it. U can't find it at parts shop coz the nuts are different. Mine just do a normal balancing, set toe to 0, camber still factory settings which is -1.8 for both sides. Will reduce the -ve later when buy a new tyres...
This post has been edited by epo: Feb 5 2012, 02:13 PM
They charged it exp, RM120 for the both nuts. Never bother to install it. U can't find it at parts shop coz the nuts are different. Mine just do a normal balancing, set toe to 0, camber still factory settings which is -1.8
Have u checked this method... I always forgot... Will try it later...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
check each of your front car brakes for dragging this will also cause your car to slightly pull if one of your front car brakes drags. To check if your front car brakes is dragging, drive your car for about 15 to 20 minutes and stop, touch the rim or hubcap of your car front wheel, check if there is a difference in temperature between the left side front tire and the right side front tire, the hotter wheel is the one with a dragging brakes thus causing your car to slightly pull to one side due to imbalance on your front end that resulted from brakes dragging.
Have u checked this method... I always forgot... Will try it later...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
check each of your front car brakes for dragging this will also cause your car to slightly pull if one of your front car brakes drags. To check if your front car brakes is dragging, drive your car for about 15 to 20 minutes and stop, touch the rim or hubcap of your car front wheel, check if there is a difference in temperature between the left side front tire and the right side front tire, the hotter wheel is the one with a dragging brakes thus causing your car to slightly pull to one side due to imbalance on your front end that resulted from brakes dragging.
nope not yet..will check it out when have the time. do let us know your test results
Hi guys, wanna ask how's the performance of the 4AT 2.0 forte. Any fortezens own this model of car? Does the fc very high? any problems with the engine or the ride? thanks and hope for your help!
Dear all. I am getting a used forte. do i have any issue claiming he warranty since i am the second owner already. do i have to do my service at kia authorised service center to make sure the warranty is valid
Dear all. I am getting a used forte. do i have any issue claiming he warranty since i am the second owner already. do i have to do my service at kia authorised service center to make sure the warranty is valid
no issue as long as everything checks out - transfer of vehicle ownership etc and yes you have to service at kia authorised SC for warranty to be valid if u still got warranty
Hi guys, wanna ask how's the performance of the 4AT 2.0 forte. Any fortezens own this model of car? Does the fc very high? any problems with the engine or the ride?
Me... perf like other car with 4AT gb too... FC high if driving in city : 10km/l Prob so far none with the engine... just follow the service manual...
QUOTE(Intel@Atom @ Feb 5 2012, 06:30 PM)
How is the fc improvement to change the 17" rim to 16"? How much do it cost for trade in? Mind to share? Thx
Trade-in depends on the condition & shop...
QUOTE(cynider @ Feb 5 2012, 07:58 PM)
Dear all. I am getting a used forte. do i have any issue claiming he warranty since i am the second owner already. do i have to do my service at kia authorised service center to make sure the warranty is valid
Registration date & mileage? Previous owner has EWP ? Kindly take note that old forte had 2 years or 50k km warranty whichever come 1st. If has EWP can extend up to 5 years.
They charged it exp, RM120 for the both nuts. Never bother to install it. U can't find it at parts shop coz the nuts are different. Mine just do a normal balancing, set toe to 0, camber still factory settings which is -1.8 for both sides. Will reduce the -ve later when buy a new tyres...
DTM auto sg buloh... actually dun like the shop attitude there (the boss look like dun want to layan but the kuli very friendly) but dun have many choices here... lazy to travel far2 away... i like my previous shop at gombak where i stay there 8 years ago... so have u tried raydiance...?
no alarm, no immobilier, no sensor. need to install at SC. auto wiper also none. have auto headlight tho
I dunno about yours, but mine comes with an alarm system. Once the doors are locked, if I open any door the alarm will trigger. But instead of a dedicated alarm buzzer it sounds the car horn and flashes the signal repeaters. You can't start the car without the correct key being in the vicinity so yes there is an immobilizer.
I dunno about yours, but mine comes with an alarm system. Once the doors are locked, if I open any door the alarm will trigger. But instead of a dedicated alarm buzzer it sounds the car horn and flashes the signal repeaters. You can't start the car without the correct key being in the vicinity so yes there is an immobilizer.
sorry, i think you're right, there's immobilizer - you need the key fob to open the doors and start the car...i tried opening the doors once they are locked, no alarm triggered, how exactly did you trigger it? I know there's a horn button on the remote which will trigger the horn but other than that, i dont think our car has any sensor of any kind that will trigger the horn unless yours already installed when u bought the car which is not something that comes stock with the car, but rather a separate accessory.
sorry, i think you're right, there's immobilizer - you need the key fob to open the doors and start the car...i tried opening the doors once they are locked, no alarm triggered, how exactly did you trigger it? I know there's a horn button on the remote which will trigger the horn but other than that, i dont think our car has any sensor of any kind that will trigger the horn unless yours already installed when u bought the car which is not something that comes stock with the car, but rather a separate accessory.
Hmmm, now that you brought it up. Will go and test again to verify. I remember once or twice I triggered the alarm but your statement kinda threw me off a bit. Will let you know once I've tried it
1. Soft buzzing sound everytime i first step on the accelerator pedal, usually occuring around 1000RPM. 2. Harshness when going over bumps / uneven roads / high speeds above 110km/h. Suspension? Rims? It feels like "swaying". 3. Steering turns to the left by itself. Tyre shops "solved" the pulling to the left problem by pumping more air into the left tyres and less air into the right tyres. 32 vs 29. But the steering wheel still shifts to the left when going over bumps.
1. Urs 1.6 ? Dunno this one... need to check with 1.6 owners... SC said what ? 2. Suspension tu... go SC & ask them to check the absorber. They've the machine that can read absorber conditions...u 3. Try set toe = 0 , balancing all 4 rims...
QUOTE(Intel@Atom @ Feb 6 2012, 06:36 AM)
for forte 1.6sx and 2.0sx, which 1 has better FC? any idea?
1.6 laaa...
QUOTE(gregy @ Feb 6 2012, 11:13 AM)
Once the doors are locked, if I open any door the alarm will trigger.
U mean locked via remote then open the door via steel key ?
This post has been edited by epo: Feb 6 2012, 12:57 PM
1. Urs 1.6 ? Dunno this one... need to check with 1.6 owners... SC said what ? 2. Suspension tu... go SC & ask them to check the absorber. They've the machine that can read absorber conditions...u 3. Try set toe = 0 , balancing all 4 rims... 1.6 laaa... U mean locked via remote then open the door via steel key ?
for no 3 - i suppose setting toe = 0 balancing all 4 rims our standard KIA sc can do (no need alignment machine rite)? do they charge for that?
I am planning to get a 1.6SX (6) AT Forte very soon. I am staying at Pandan Indah, KL. Any SA to recommend? Would appreciate to have their contact number and address as well. Thank you!
Charged RM 150 by Michelin tyre shop for balancing, alignment and camber kit (I think it's a rip-off), but nope, handling/harshness issue still there.
They pumped-up the left tyres to 32/33, while reducing the pressure on the right tyres to 29.
I have less confidence going over bumps / rough roads / high speed with my Forte, compared to my previous Proton Gen.
Tried 3 Naza authorized service centres already, one in KL and another two in my current location (outside of KL). Plus two tyre shops.
Lastly, the parking brake release is not as smooth. Sometimes it does not release all the way. The "spring" not as "springy" as my previous car.
But I still like my Forte, leaves me speechless (for the right or wrong reasons) hahahah
There is a Lim Tayar shop (CKL) in Subang Jaya that charged me 90++ for alignment and one camber bolt. No need to import special bolt la, they have found a way to use what they have and add a washer to make it compatible. Works for me
In case anyone is interested, it's the shop next to a Shell station as you are driving along the NPE from Sunway heading to USJ. After passing SS14 and SS15 you need to exit the flyover and keep left to continue towards SS19 and USJ. Right after taking the bend, you will see the shop on your left. The boss is a young friendly guy who drives a 'Roc.
There is a Lim Tayar shop (CKL) in Subang Jaya that charged me 90++ for alignment and one camber bolt. No need to import special bolt la, they have found a way to use what they have and add a washer to make it compatible. Works for me
In case anyone is interested, it's the shop next to a Shell station as you are driving along the NPE from Sunway heading to USJ. After passing SS14 and SS15 you need to exit the flyover and keep left to continue towards SS19 and USJ. Right after taking the bend, you will see the shop on your left. The boss is a young friendly guy who drives a 'Roc.
RM 90 not cheap also leh..alignment shouldnt cost that much even plus the camber nut/bolt
DTM auto sg buloh... actually dun like the shop attitude there (the boss look like dun want to layan but the kuli very friendly) but dun have many choices here... lazy to travel far2 away... i like my previous shop at gombak where i stay there 8 years ago... so have u tried raydiance...?
not yet. It is quite expensive some more not guarantee can work. I am planning to go NSS at glenmarie to do alignment + balancing which is cheaper. If really not work then i only consider other shop. How do you think?
Added on February 6, 2012, 7:32 pm
QUOTE(suai @ Feb 5 2012, 12:26 AM)
Help.
Today i am doing my first 1000km Service and Alignment at Glenmare. The technician checked and told me that my front left type was eaten due to pull left problem and suggest me to switch the front tyre with back tyre, no balancing is required as informed by him.
Below is the differences before and after the alignment:-
Before: Steering was hard to and required more energy to turn but very stable.
After: Steering was very loose and required more energy to turn/steer for same corner (about 360deg for U-Turn), steering not stable especially when hinter the uneven road, steering will vibrate. And steering will not auto turn back to original position after turning.
Do any fortezen here faced this before and is this normal? Help please !!!
BTW, any branch/ dealer open on Sunday near PJ area?
I found the solution already, i did my alignment again at 3rd party shop and he told me the alignment is run so much although the SC said ok. I think most likely the machine at Glenmarie SC is not proper calibrated.
Now my car felt better but still not so stable when running at uneven road although is at low speed. Going to do my balancing and alignment again at NSS SC on Wednesday.
And, for all Fortezen, please avoid to do your alignment at Glenmarie SC.
This post has been edited by suai: Feb 6 2012, 09:04 PM
not yet. It is quite expensive some more not guarantee can work. I am planning to go NSS at glenmarie to do alignment + balancing which is cheaper. If really not work then i only consider other shop. How do you think?
Added on February 6, 2012, 7:32 pm I found the solution already, i did my alignment again at 3rd party shop and he told me the alignment is run so much although the SC said ok. I think most likely the machine at Glenmarie SC is not proper calibrated.
Now my car felt better but still not so stable when running at uneven road although is at low speed. Going to do my balancing and alignment again at NSS SC on Wednesday.
And, for all Fortezen, please avoid to do your alignment at Glenmarie SC.
nss as i recall dont do alignment...u can try call them up to confirm
I call them before, they said got.... Will call again on Wednesday. Do you have any suggestion which SC is good for alignment and balancing? PJ SC is moving to the new shop near fedaral hence temporary off for alignment service. Puchong service good?
you're referring to nss glenmarie rite? i dun recall they have alignment machine cos my friend went there last year told me they dun have...unless they recently bought the machine..
you're referring to nss glenmarie rite? i dun recall they have alignment machine cos my friend went there last year told me they dun have...unless they recently bought the machine..
i will do my 1k service next month, any guy from jb which can recommend a SC for me? the jalan abdullah 1 sucked. take me 4 hours to check battery only..
Charged RM 150 by Michelin tyre shop for balancing, alignment and camber kit (I think it's a rip-off), but nope, handling/harshness issue still there. They pumped-up the left tyres to 32/33, while reducing the pressure on the right tyres to 29. Lastly, the parking brake release is not as smooth. Sometimes it does not release all the way. The "spring" not as "springy" as my previous car.
u still didn't check ur absorber as per what i remind u... go to selayang or kinrara SC, they have the machine... both tires should have equal pressure, mine never pump right tire lower than left... 32 psi is acceptable...
QUOTE(gregy @ Feb 6 2012, 04:52 PM)
In case anyone is interested, it's the shop next to a Shell station as you are driving along the NPE from Sunway heading to USJ. After passing SS14 and SS15 you need to exit the flyover and keep left to continue towards SS19 and USJ. Right after taking the bend, you will see the shop on your left.
aisey gps coordinate bro...
QUOTE(suai @ Feb 6 2012, 07:27 PM)
If really not work then i only consider other shop. How do you think?
i'm still doubt that kia SC is good in doing an alignment... even suai's case showing that SC didn't do it properly... why dun u try CKL shop that has been proposed by gregy... at least someone has tried it... a bit waste of time to go to SC juz bcoz of alignment only coz they're slow...
u still didn't check ur absorber as per what i remind u... go to selayang or kinrara SC, they have the machine... both tires should have equal pressure, mine never pump right tire lower than left... 32 psi is acceptable... aisey gps coordinate bro... i'm still doubt that kia SC is good in doing an alignment... even suai's case showing that SC didn't do it properly... why dun u try CKL shop that has been proposed by gregy... at least someone has tried it... a bit waste of time to go to SC juz bcoz of alignment only coz they're slow...
u still didn't check ur absorber as per what i remind u... go to selayang or kinrara SC, they have the machine... both tires should have equal pressure, mine never pump right tire lower than left... 32 psi is acceptable... aisey gps coordinate bro... i'm still doubt that kia SC is good in doing an alignment... even suai's case showing that SC didn't do it properly... why dun u try CKL shop that has been proposed by gregy... at least someone has tried it... a bit waste of time to go to SC juz bcoz of alignment only coz they're slow...
Your suggestion is CKL or Raydiance? Both is nearby only.
This post has been edited by suai: Feb 6 2012, 10:41 PM
this one...? Subang Jaya Lot PT 2092, Jalan Tujuan, Subang Jaya 47500, Selangor. Phone : 03-5636 5128 Fax : 03-5636 1798 i never tried both but both has been tried by our owners... imho, i prefer CKL since they changed 1 camber nut only... raydiance changes 2 nuts... dunno why...
this one...? Subang Jaya Lot PT 2092, Jalan Tujuan, Subang Jaya 47500, Selangor. Phone : 03-5636 5128 Fax : 03-5636 1798 i never tried both but both has been tried by our owners... imho, i prefer CKL since they changed 1 camber nut only... raydiance changes 2 nuts... dunno why...
Is chamber nut must changed in order to solve alignment problem? I need to tell them to change it or they will check and advise me?
RM 90 not cheap also leh..alignment shouldnt cost that much even plus the camber nut/bolt
Well, true, but at least they are really professional when handling customers' cars. Nobody gets in without first placing a seat cover that covers from headrest all the way down, and you won't find grubby hands touching your steering wheel. There are also place cloths for when they work on your engine bay. Free wifi, coffee, tea in an air cond lounge etc. For me, these reasons are enough to pay a slight premium over other places.
And they took around two hours to align my ride, doing more than three rounds of test and adjust. And it fixed the pulling left issue for me
Unresolved Recurring Problem / Issue with my Naza Forte 1.6SX
1. Soft buzzing sound everytime i first step on the accelerator pedal, usually occuring around 1000RPM.
2. Harshness when going over bumps / uneven roads / high speeds above 110km/h. Suspension? Rims? It feels like "swaying".
3. Steering turns to the left by itself. Tyre shops "solved" the pulling to the left problem by pumping more air into the left tyres and less air into the right tyres. 32 vs 29. But the steering wheel still shifts to the left when going over bumps.
1. I also have the similar symptom (1.6SX, 4 speeds), asked SC, they said that is normal, but personally I'm not convince. Just typical Malaysian SC, if they insisted that is norm, nothing much you can do. Since that is not the big issue, I just ignored it. Any other having the same problem?
3. Pumping difference air pressure is workaround, not the solution. I have my car fix in Puchong Naza SC, they took me 2 hours and consumed around 6l petrol (I really don't know where they gone to test my car!). The situation get a bit better. Until I have my car service in Serdang Raya SC, the technician informed me the alignment is out quite seriously, they just added a camber bolt (RM25 ) to resolve the problem completely.
I can hear rattling sound from my driver's side door. Anyone have this problem and which SC u went to rectify it? Seems like there is another place of the sound coming, not sure if it's the dashboard or the pessanger's door
Me... perf like other car with 4AT gb too... FC high if driving in city : 10km/l Prob so far none with the engine... just follow the service manual... Trade-in depends on the condition & shop... Registration date & mileage? Previous owner has EWP ? Kindly take note that old forte had 2 years or 50k km warranty whichever come 1st. If has EWP can extend up to 5 years.
Is that true 2010 forte standard warranty only 2 years? Anyway i can check it? As the car dealer keep saying it is a 5 years warranty car without showing me the service record.
Yalor, unfortunately I am based outside of Klang Valley (phone code NOT 03-, phone code 09-) LAST BUT NOT LEAST, some Naza-authorized Service Centres are insisting that I use fully synthetic and refuse to allow semi synthetic for 3rd service. They claim it is "instruction from Naza".
Ayooo... why didn't inform earlier ur phone code... then sori not much i can advise u... Fully syn is OPTIONAL , dun trust them , i'm using semi syn...
Yes, you are right, it's just a workaround, not the solution. I have added the camber bold (RM70), but their secret in resolving is varying the tyre pressure.
I was standing beside and observing the entire process. And same same, they consumed lots of petrol driving around, coming back, changing the tyre pressure, and testing again... they repeated the process perhaps 5-6 rounds.
I do not know what kind of magic they had done, but I do pump the air in petrol station (equally for 4 tyres) few times after they installed the camber bolt, no "left-pulling" issue noticeable. Thus, I do not think they just play around by varying the tyres' pressure.
Note: AZ World (Serdang Raya) wasn't Naza service branch, but Naza authorized service dealer. I do not see my car in the service workshop while the front desk person received the call from technician to ask me if I wish to install the camber bolt. I assume they do not have such facilities in their workshop and they just drive my car to near by tyre shop for fixing. Any way, the end results is much better than the official Naza service branch in Puchong that I mentioned before.
I can hear rattling sound from my driver's side door. Anyone have this problem and which SC u went to rectify it? Seems like there is another place of the sound coming, not sure if it's the dashboard or the pessanger's door
REALLY irritating me!!!
Yes, i hear some very small but high frequency sound from my right ear during driving, think the sound is from right door/ seat belt holder there. Looking for solution as well.
Added on February 7, 2012, 9:07 pm
QUOTE(invinciblezero @ Feb 7 2012, 06:59 PM)
Kinrara SC is it the 1 opposite Puchong neway?? The one just beside the road heading to Sunway toll
Nope, the one nearby Sunway Tol is only sales center, you need to go further straight to Bukit Jalil direction and you will see the KIA SC on you right hand side after Shell Station.
This post has been edited by suai: Feb 7 2012, 09:07 PM
Yes, i hear some very small but high frequency sound from my right ear during driving, think the sound is from right door/ seat belt holder there. Looking for solution as well.
one my 1st service, mention this to the tech guy...he said many cases; the sound is from the seat belt. they already done many cases for this issue.
Note: AZ World (Serdang Raya) wasn't Naza service branch, but Naza authorized service dealer. I do not see my car in the service workshop while the front desk person received the call from technician to ask me if I wish to install the camber bolt. I assume they do not have such facilities in their workshop and they just drive my car to near by tyre shop for fixing. Any way, the end results is much better than the official Naza service branch in Puchong that I mentioned before.
In this case i would suggest Fortezen not to go Naza Branch nor Authorized Dealer for Alignment. Third party shop such as CKL or Raydiance would be much better as discussed in previous page.
Added on February 7, 2012, 9:14 pm
QUOTE(craxors @ Feb 7 2012, 09:10 PM)
one my 1st service, mention this to the tech guy...he said many cases; the sound is from the seat belt. they already done many cases for this issue.
Are they able to solve it? May i know which SC did you go?
This post has been edited by suai: Feb 7 2012, 11:22 PM
Nope, the one nearby Sunway Tol is only sales center, you need to go further straight to Bukit Jalil direction and you will see the KIA SC on you right hand side after Shell Station.
The one near to Sunway toll (behind IOI shopping mall) is 3S center, which include the service.
Eh all bros, wanna ask, where can we test drive the Koup ah? I heard there's one in Glenmarie or the one along the Federal Highway one? Sorry ah, I am not from around KL area therefore I don't know whether I am right or not
Anybody knows what they change during 40K service ?
mine 26k km... but i think std la like other cars... engine oil, oil filter, air filter, plugs, ekon filter, fuel filter, radiator service, coolant, brake oil, etc... etc... u can call any SC to get confirmation...
QUOTE(natsirt @ Feb 8 2012, 04:16 PM)
Eh all bros, wanna ask, where can we test drive the Koup ah?
hmmm... dunno la... have u call 603-2617 7666 or 603-2617 7999 (nazakia careline) & check with them ? or u can ask here...
Anyone know where I can recycle my gear oil?? Meaning take out the oil, sort of like cleaning it then put back the same oil after cleaning back to my car...
hi there, when i accelerate from 10 to 40km/h, i can hear the sound of "gla gla gla". does anyone know what is the problem and which SC is able to solve this issue? the sound is getting quite obvious when driving with radio turn on. my forte is 6 speed and abt 5 months old only.
I thought of going for some long distance sprint ride to 'clean' up my engine. New car must train a bit ma..After that I plan to change the engine oil and recycle the gear oil because there might be particals due to the 'engine polishing'
anyone 1.6sx owner tested go up genting with couple of passengers? how is the power of the car? thx
a lot... u need to dig previous thread...
QUOTE(@onimenokyo@ @ Feb 8 2012, 11:32 PM)
hi there, when i accelerate from 10 to 40km/h, i can hear the sound of "gla gla gla". does anyone know what is the problem and which SC is able to solve this issue? the sound is getting quite obvious when driving with radio turn on. my forte is 6 speed and abt 5 months old only.
ask SC to re-update/re-flash ECU... 1.6 has this issues... go to kinrara SC... dunno after 2 years, this issue still arise, i thought they had applied permanent fix whereby use the latest ROM for all new cars...
QUOTE(invinciblezero @ Feb 9 2012, 02:04 PM)
I thought of going for some long distance sprint ride to 'clean' up my engine. New car must train a bit ma..After that I plan to change the engine oil and recycle the gear oil because there might be particals due to the 'engine polishing'
particals in engine = change engine oil particals in gb = recycle gb oil...
i got 1 problem, when driving, if i release the petrol, i feel the car is slower and like i am braking the car. this happen even at downhill road(not so obvious than straight road).
at 1st, i think maybe of the car weight and cause the car getting slower, but when i try to change the gear to "N", the feeling of of braking is gone and car move smoothly.
i notice this only happen if below 40km/hour, if above of that, no such problem at all.
any1 face same issue or this consider normal to all?
This post has been edited by Methaphora: Feb 9 2012, 06:26 PM
i got 1 problem, when driving, if i release the petrol, i feel the car is slower and like i am braking the car. this happen even at downhill road(not so obvious than straight road).
at 1st, i think maybe of the car weight and cause the car getting slower, but when i try to change the gear to "N", the feeling of of braking is gone and car move smoothly.
i notice this only happen if below 40km/hour, if above of that, no such problem at all.
any1 face same issue or this consider normal to all?
i got 1 problem, when driving, if i release the petrol, i feel the car is slower and like i am braking the car. this happen even at downhill road(not so obvious than straight road).
at 1st, i think maybe of the car weight and cause the car getting slower, but when i try to change the gear to "N", the feeling of of braking is gone and car move smoothly.
i notice this only happen if below 40km/hour, if above of that, no such problem at all.
any1 face same issue or this consider normal to all?
Try switching your multi function display to "Instant" mode. When you see the bar at 0l/100km, what's happening is the car's momentum is turning the engine and keeping the alternator, air cond, power steering etc working. All these things impose a load which slows the car down. Once below a certain speed the "Instant" bar will come alive again. During this period you will find that engine braking is less pronounced because fuel is reintroduced to fire up the engine.
just got a call from selayang SC... my torsion beam is ready to replaced... quite fast... claimed on 1/2... item received on 10/2... 5 working days... mesti made from gurun ni... kekeke...
This post has been edited by epo: Feb 10 2012, 08:57 PM
a lot... u need to dig previous thread... ask SC to re-update/re-flash ECU... 1.6 has this issues... go to kinrara SC... dunno after 2 years, this issue still arise, i thought they had applied permanent fix whereby use the latest ROM for all new cars... particals in engine = change engine oil particals in gb = recycle gb oil...
I also have that gla gla gla sound... if sit 2 people.. but the sound appear when there's motorcycle passby... so weird... i tot is motorcycle sound.. but it can be heard at behind of my seat.. but then the sound gone.. wow!! (Kia Forte SX)
just got a call from selayang SC... my torsion beam is ready to replaced... quite fast... claimed on 1/2... item received on 10/2... 5 working days... mesti made from gurun ni... kekeke...
Sorry I didn't follow earlier about your torsion beam. What was wrong with it?
Rear left camber reading : -2.6 (too negative) Rear right camber reading : 0.0 Resulting rear left tire eat 1 side so quick. Since the camber can't be adjusted, then need to claim warranty.
Rear left camber reading : -2.6 (too negative) Rear right camber reading : 0.0 Resulting rear left tire eat 1 side so quick. Since the camber can't be adjusted, then need to claim warranty.
hi everyone=) , i am interested in kia forte very much. Anyone know whether the 'engine start/stop' button is available in the 1.6ex model? And if it not available,is there any way that we can top up a little bit more money to make it available? Thanks a lot
hi everyone=) , i am interested in kia forte very much. Anyone know whether the 'engine start/stop' button is available in the 1.6ex model? And if it not available,is there any way that we can top up a little bit more money to make it available? Thanks a lot
1.6ex don't have, only 1.6sx..just get the 1.6 sx la, worth it with lots of goodies especially the reverse camera is a steal man!
besides that,what are the differences between SX and EX?
really interested in this car . oh yea,and how long is the waiting period?
The reverse camera automatically activates when you engage the reverse gear - the camera will display live feed directly onto the rear view mirror in the car, about 30% of the rear view mirror will be used to display the camera image (live). The camera is situated just above the rear license plate holder.
See pic below for better idea:
Difference in the trim - you can refer to the first page and see the FAQ by CyberKewl (me). Here's the common Q & A on it:
Q: Which trim/version of the forte is most worth it to buy? A: The SX version is the most bang for buck, whether you're going for the 1.6 or 2.0 SX. If you can spare the cash for the road tax cost of the 2.0, go for it (approx < RM 400). The 1.6 SX has extra goodies such as reverse camera, paddle shifters (!!), stability control programmes such as EBD, CBC, BAS, TCS (the 1.6 EX only has ABS), 6 CD changer, Electric folding mirrors, Keyless entry & start/stop engine button, full auto aircond system, Front fog lamps. On the other hand the 2.0 SX has an improved Motor Driven Power Steering, Cruise Control, Leather seats, side & curtain airbags (and of course, a 2 Litre engine!). Ultimately if you're alright with the lower spec EX which does not have the full stability control programmes and on a tight budget, its still a steal compared to many other cars in the market.
Waiting period - no idea, you have to ask the Sales agent for that.
This post has been edited by CyberKewl: Feb 13 2012, 10:42 PM
Waiting period i think now quite fast... less than a week but ensure u ask SA to show u the ready stock car in their yard... loan secure also must prob free... Just came back from selayang SC last 2 weeks and saw their 10 units ready stock...
The reverse camera automatically activates when you engage the reverse gear - the camera will display live feed directly onto the rear view mirror in the car, about 30% of the rear view mirror will be used to display the camera image (live). The camera is situated just above the rear license plate holder.
See pic below for better idea:
Difference in the trim - you can refer to the first page and see the FAQ by CyberKewl (me). Here's the common Q & A on it:
Q: Which trim/version of the forte is most worth it to buy? A: The SX version is the most bang for buck, whether you're going for the 1.6 or 2.0 SX. If you can spare the cash for the road tax cost of the 2.0, go for it (approx < RM 400). The 1.6 SX has extra goodies such as reverse camera, paddle shifters (!!), stability control programmes such as EBD, CBC, BAS, TCS (the 1.6 EX only has ABS), 6 CD changer, Electric folding mirrors, Keyless entry & start/stop engine button, full auto aircond system, Front fog lamps. On the other hand the 2.0 SX has an improved Motor Driven Power Steering, Cruise Control, Leather seats, side & curtain airbags (and of course, a 2 Litre engine!). Ultimately if you're alright with the lower spec EX which does not have the full stability control programmes and on a tight budget, its still a steal compared to many other cars in the market.
Waiting period - no idea, you have to ask the Sales agent for that.
so the rear image will be displayed on the mirror? that is soooo the 1.6ex specs really blew me away, erm,what is 'full auto aircond system' and 'cruise control'?
QUOTE(epo @ Feb 13 2012, 11:05 PM)
Waiting period i think now quite fast... less than a week but ensure u ask SA to show u the ready stock car in their yard... loan secure also must prob free... Just came back from selayang SC last 2 weeks and saw their 10 units ready stock...
the 1.6ex specs really blew me away, erm,what is 'full auto aircond system' and 'cruise control'?
Layman definition :
Full auto aircond system = u just set the desired temperature..the aircond system will do the rest automatically. No need to set the blower (fan) speed, circulation mode & blowing vents. The aircond system will set these parameters automatically according to the real time cooling load. Only Forte SX got this function.
Cruise Control = u just cruise (drive) to your desired speed, set (activate) the cruise control & lift your right foot from the pedal (accelerator). The car will cruise by itself at your desired speed without the need to press the pedal. U just need to control the steering & standby to brake when necessary..cool huhh? It's very useful on a long highway journey. However, Cruise Control is exclusive for Forte 2.0SX only
By the way, it's good to be here again after quite sometime..& many Forte 'old friends' are still here
This post has been edited by izputra: Feb 14 2012, 08:32 AM
izputra... where have u been...? still driving forte or optima now ? now at perlis or KL ?
Still sticking to my Forte as of now though the Optima lures me so well..hehe
I've been transferred to Kedah at the end of last year & since then quite busy with my new tasks & also busy renovating my new house here. So for the past several months, i still follow this thread & MFC forum, but just as a passive reader
So epo, after almost 2 years..your Forte mileage is still going nowhere right? Still riding kapchai most of the time? hehe.
kedah which area ? yup still riding my kapchai... should send my car to car rental for side income...
Alor Setar to be exact..nanti hang balik Pendang, mai la singgah rumah aku..blh sembang2 pasai kereta..hehe
By the way..any problem with your CBU 2.0SX Forte as of now? Mine still serves me well without any problems though the mileage almost reaching 50k km now
just realized 1 prob... my torsion beam... dig previous page... tmrw will head to slyg SC for replacement...
u should go to naza mergong sc & check ur absorber before the 2 years warranty period finished... if lucky, u can claim for a new absorber...
Oh ya..i forgot that u have mentioned that before. Perhaps i will go & check the torsion beam during my 50k km service. I hope they got the test machine to rectify it. Until now my tyres still worn out evenly with no sign of 'waving' thread..so i guess my suspension system is still in good shape.
Forgot to mention that i already downgrade to 16" lightweight rims with 205/55 tyre profile..so i think, the warranty for the suspension system void already..hopefully my suspension will last long
btw anyone here done any servicing of your aircond?
QUOTE(XionCity @ Feb 16 2012, 08:41 PM)
hey guys....is it true that SC recommend to do air-cond service at 40k service??
it's up to individual... for me if ekon tara sejuk then service la... if not, no need to bother it, maybe wait until 80k km...
QUOTE(CyberKewl @ Feb 16 2012, 07:23 PM)
so mahal??RM900??walau..really expensive
ok la tu... that's is what ur bonus for... to pay ur car maintenance, insurance, etc... anyway u can request the list of items what need to be changed, if feels no need, then remove laaa...
[quote=epo,Feb 17 2012, 10:54 AM] [/quote] it's up to individual... for me if ekon tara sejuk then service la... if not, no need to bother it, maybe wait until 80k km... ok la tu... that's is what ur bonus for... to pay ur car maintenance, insurance, etc... anyway u can request the list of items what need to be changed, if feels no need, then remove laaa...
[/quote]
If you don't service the air cond with the SC, lain hari kalo ekon rusak, warranty lesap bro...
Just have to remember that warranty is an expense and all companies will do their best to make sure to keep this expense to a minimum
Just bayar je, unless it is stated that the air cond is not covered under warranty.
if u want to enjoy 5 years warranty, u've no choice, u need to follow what SC recommend... i stop send my car to SC after 3 free service... last service with them is 10k km (i'm using mineral that time so interval is 1k, 5k & 10k, now switching to semi aldy) when i sent my car for torsion beam replacement, SC said this part isn't related to engine so SC still claim it free for me... but if something happen related to engine, for sure they'll charge me coz not servicing with them...
if u want to enjoy 5 years warranty, u've no choice, u need to follow what SC recommend... i stop send my car to SC after 3 free service... last service with them is 10k km (i'm using mineral that time so interval is 1k, 5k & 10k, now switching to semi aldy) when i sent my car for torsion beam replacement, SC said this part isn't related to engine so SC still claim it free for me... but if something happen related to engine, for sure they'll charge me coz not servicing with them...
you were using mineral initially during service? i thought should use fully since our car came with fully syn. out of the factory?
This post has been edited by CyberKewl: Feb 17 2012, 10:05 PM
no la... SC gave me 2 options, mineral or fully... so i choice mineral due to i'm not using my car everyday so a bit waste if use fully... i dunno la if there's a people replace their fully every 5k km coz a bit hard for me to achieve 10k km in a short period...
eh how do u know our car aldy fill up with fully when come out from the factory ? i also dunno that... coz from what i've read new engine (zero mileage) shouldn't use fully... should use mineral so all the 'abuk2 besi' easy to throw out...
no la... SC gave me 2 options, mineral or fully... so i choice mineral due to i'm not using my car everyday so a bit waste if use fully... i dunno la if there's a people replace their fully every 5k km coz a bit hard for me to achieve 10k km in a short period...
eh how do u know our car aldy fill up with fully when come out from the factory ? i also dunno that... coz from what i've read new engine (zero mileage) shouldn't use fully... should use mineral so all the 'abuk2 besi' easy to throw out...
last time SC recommend fully wor for first and 2nd..so i just follow..i cant remember who said that our car came with fully..read somewhere..
fully also can use... except no benefit to me... u might read below...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
There are a lot of entities that recommend using synthetic oil, even to people who don't need it. For example, synthetic is recommended for anyone that drives in stop-and-go traffic. But since all of us drive in stop-and-go at some point, that's a bad recommendation. You should only use synthetic if you're driving in stop and go traffic long enough that your engine's cooling fan turns on, and only if you're doing so daily. Also, if you only drive short trips, people may recommend synthetic oil as a way to protect your engine. However, short trips, regardless of your choice of oil, can damage your motor. No matter whether you use synthetic or regular oil, your engine was designed run for at least 20 minutes. Running synthetic in these situations might be better, but tests have shown that the benefit is minor.
so if i use my car daily, of course i'll use fully... semi also can but change every 5k km laaa... dun blame my superbike but blame the KL trafik...
fully also can use... except no benefit to me... u might read below...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
There are a lot of entities that recommend using synthetic oil, even to people who don't need it. For example, synthetic is recommended for anyone that drives in stop-and-go traffic. But since all of us drive in stop-and-go at some point, that's a bad recommendation. You should only use synthetic if you're driving in stop and go traffic long enough that your engine's cooling fan turns on, and only if you're doing so daily. Also, if you only drive short trips, people may recommend synthetic oil as a way to protect your engine. However, short trips, regardless of your choice of oil, can damage your motor. No matter whether you use synthetic or regular oil, your engine was designed run for at least 20 minutes. Running synthetic in these situations might be better, but tests have shown that the benefit is minor.
so if i use my car daily, of course i'll use fully... semi also can but change every 5k km laaa... dun blame my superbike but blame the KL trafik...
You mean ezytouchup? Will try to find their office since I am working in shah alam. Btw,are you satisfy with the result after applied?
yes very satisfy, color match 99%, 1% due to my skill. it is very good if compared to the overated autospa touch up when i used on my blm last time lol.
I used fully syn oil all the way to 40k km service...i just dont want to go to SC frequently..so opt for fully syn oil that can last for 10k km
yezaaa... but air filter better clean it on every 5k km... bukak filter, bwk pi kedai motor, pinjam sembur angin yg kuat giler tu... country kita ni byk habukkk...
yezaaa... but air filter better clean it on every 5k km... bukak filter, bwk pi kedai motor, pinjam sembur angin yg kuat giler tu... country kita ni byk habukkk...
Yupp..i used stainless steel (Simota) drop-in air filter. So after every 3-4k km, rinse the air filter with water will do the trick..else need to use the air gun as per u said. Our country mmg byk habuk, i can easily see that the air filter are partially clogged after 3-4k km of driving.
yes very satisfy, color match 99%, 1% due to my skill. it is very good if compared to the overated autospa touch up when i used on my blm last time lol.
Thanks. Btw,any idea how to fix those deep scratches n dents? Bought fix it pro from myforteclub seller but seems like no effect at all Think to use white simen to fix,dun know workable o not
In this case, better go to Naza SC rather than Naza/Kia Authorized SC/Dealer. I've faced the same thing also before when sending my car for scheduled service, but luckily i asked them about the engine oil. They are going to put in the same Caltex 5W40 engine oil as what u've said, but i'm insist to use the Petronas Syntium 5W30 instead.
If u go to Authorized SC to service your car, better ask them what engine oil the provide..else u might end up with other grade of engine oil
This post has been edited by izputra: Feb 19 2012, 03:31 PM
a lady and she gave me the bullshit that 5w30 is very expensive blah blah blah and cannot find in the market... wth the caltex she put into my car is more expensive than petronas i feel like writing to naza to confirm whether it can be used seriously dem pissed off with them
Added on February 19, 2012, 8:40 pmi complained when i saw the leftover bottle in my car that says 5 w 40
hmm that's bad..i went there once but the lady asked me to choose which brand of engine oil i want, they didn't recommend any even though i asked (being neutral). the lady was called maggie if not mistaken - is this the same girl (chinese lady) that attended to you?
they used caltex 5w 40 on my car when naza recommended 5w 30 wtf
Dun worry la bro, since the authorized dealer said ok then ok lo Becoz I was also changed to caltex 5w40 for my 20k service and I found the performance was better than petronas a lot. Better throttle response even thought the oil is thicker than petronas, it is better for my car becoz I used to rev to 5-6k of rpm Petronas sucks!
Forte 1.6 SX and 2.0 how much? What is the int rates now?
How much? -Kindly read the first post on the very first page of this thread.
Interest Rates? -Not sure as of now for Forte. But last month, during my visit to Ford, the interest rate (if my memory still serves me well) is 2.8 (9 years) for Fiesta
How much? -Kindly read the first post on the very first page of this thread.
Interest Rates? -Not sure as of now for Forte. But last month, during my visit to Ford, the interest rate (if my memory still serves me well) is 2.8 (9 years) for Fiesta
I just book 1.6sx last week and manage to get 2.6 for 9 years.
Dun worry la bro, since the authorized dealer said ok then ok lo Becoz I was also changed to caltex 5w40 for my 20k service and I found the performance was better than petronas a lot. Better throttle response even thought the oil is thicker than petronas, it is better for my car becoz I used to rev to 5-6k of rpm Petronas sucks!
hahaha... lupa laaa... nama dekat2 sama... caltex castrol...
QUOTE(ferrari38 @ Feb 19 2012, 11:59 PM)
Becoz I was also changed to caltex 5w40 for my 20k service and I found the performance was better than petronas a lot. Better throttle response even thought the oil is thicker than petronas, it is better for my car becoz I used to rev to 5-6k of rpm
if thicker, engine will be more heavier although fully syn ?
want to service my car at one of dealer here at kulim...40km service..guess what...rm8xx for 40km service end up service at my wife hometown at SP...only rm47x
want to service my car at one of dealer here at kulim...40km service..guess what...rm8xx for 40km service end up service at my wife hometown at SP...only rm47x
If last year service pricing is still applicable, 40k km service should be less than RM600. RM8xx is for 60k km service due to replacement of V-ribbed belt. I did my 40k km service at the end of last year, ending up paying only RM48x (2.0SX) coz i didnot change the air filter (using the easy to clean stainless steel Simota air filter) & also topping up just 0.5L of coolant & brake fluid instead of 1L each.
If the dealer charge u RM8xx for the 40k km service, i believe they wanna replace/change the unnecessary items.
This post has been edited by izputra: Feb 20 2012, 12:17 PM
Same chassis as the MD Elantra. No surprise that the stance of the car is similar but I don't think the front looks that nice compared to the Elantra. Better wait for the unveiled car before making further judgment
If last year service pricing is still applicable, 40k km service should be less than RM600. RM8xx is for 60k km service due to replacement of V-ribbed belt. I did my 40k km service at the end of last year, ending up paying only RM48x (2.0SX) coz i didnot change the air filter (using the easy to clean stainless steel Simota air filter) & also topping up just 0.5L of coolant & brake fluid instead of 1L each.
If the dealer charge u RM8xx for the 40k km service, i believe they wanna replace/change the unnecessary items.
Seem the service cost is vary and not standard, I saw 2 set of price posted by MyForte Club member in facebook. I shared here for your perusal.
Seem the service cost is vary and not standard, I saw 2 set of price posted by MyForte Club member in facebook. I shared here for your perusal.
I'm not sure regarding service price standardization among NazaKia SC/Authorized SC, but as far as i remember, it follows the second table (below)..at least for me
now the 1st table become standard... latest my visit to selayang SC early this mth, also saw 1st table on their wall... but its too general, they need to breakdown the details... we need to know why there's RM200 additional charges so we can argue with them...
i'm new owner of forte (clear white) and need to do 1st service.. anybody has been to kia red cube PJ for servicing? is it OK?
For the basic first service, i believe send your car to any Nazakia SC will do. For a fast service, appointment are recommended. If u got any complaints regarding your car, better go to SC on normal weekdays (Monday-Friday). They usually cannot entertain any complaints (especially the complicated one) on Saturday due to so many customers on that day & also time constraint (working half day).
a lady and she gave me the bullshit that 5w30 is very expensive blah blah blah and cannot find in the market... wth the caltex she put into my car is more expensive than petronas i feel like writing to naza to confirm whether it can be used seriously dem pissed off with them
Added on February 19, 2012, 8:40 pmi complained when i saw the leftover bottle in my car that says 5 w 40
NSS glenmarie? i also got same prob with u.. last time go there do major service for 40k also she told me the same thing. Summore add another rm300 for new transmission fluid ZIC ATF SP-IV (12X1L) item description. This fluid cost like rm 80/L and forte use it 4L.. so 4xrm80= rm 320! compare to original ATF XP/209l only cost rm83 for 4liter! so my major service cost add up around 800++ woo.. any1 got xperience like dis??
This post has been edited by ishumi: Feb 21 2012, 05:24 PM
hahaha... lupa laaa... nama dekat2 sama... caltex castrol... if thicker, engine will be more heavier although fully syn ?
Ya,in fact thicker oil provide better protection to the engine,normally older car will b recommended. Moreover, thicker oil will give heavier throttle response,but this caltex oil did not. I feel better than petronas.
This post has been edited by ferrari38: Feb 21 2012, 05:49 PM
Added on February 21, 2012, 5:49 pm Ya,in fact thicker oil provide better protection to the engine,normally older car will b recommended. Moreover, thicker oil will give heavier throttle response,but this caltex oil did not. I feel better than petronas.
i'm using caltex havoline 5w-40 - i feel the FC is not good at all compared to petronas...plan to change back to petronas during my next service
NSS glenmarie? i also got same prob with u.. last time go there do major service for 40k also she told me the same thing. Summore add another rm300 for new transmission fluid ZIC ATF SP-IV (12X1L) item description. This fluid cost like rm 80/L and forte use it 4L.. so 4xrm80= rm 320! compare to original ATF XP/209l only cost rm83 for 4liter! so my major service cost add up around 800++ woo.. any1 got xperience like dis??
yes i kena oso
later i found out that the atf used by the branch is cheaper...coz this is sp4 which i now am not sure whether it is compatible with what naza has recommended
Added on February 22, 2012, 6:12 ammy car is a 4 speeder and i dun need the sp4 grade atf
This post has been edited by blackfortetoo: Feb 22 2012, 06:12 AM
later i found out that the atf used by the branch is cheaper...coz this is sp4 which i now am not sure whether it is compatible with what naza has recommended
Added on February 22, 2012, 6:12 ammy car is a 4 speeder and i dun need the sp4 grade atf
yup.. mine also 4 speeder.. wanna find other sc to check whether they r still using the same old atf..
I'm not sure regarding service price standardization among NazaKia SC/Authorized SC, but as far as i remember, it follows the second table (below)..at least for me
there is an Authorised SC only charged rm30 for labour service
NSS glenmarie? i also got same prob with u.. last time go there do major service for 40k also she told me the same thing. Summore add another rm300 for new transmission fluid ZIC ATF SP-IV (12X1L) item description. This fluid cost like rm 80/L and forte use it 4L.. so 4xrm80= rm 320! compare to original ATF XP/209l only cost rm83 for 4liter! so my major service cost add up around 800++ woo.. any1 got xperience like dis??
I don't think they were wrong. What you have in your car right now is a fully synthetic ATF compared to the mineral stuff that was in your car from the factory. Did you complain about anything relating to your gearbox? Hard shifting? Bad FC? Fully synth ATF will take care of your GB better than mineral.
Maybe it's a new directive from the new mngmt at Naza Kia to protect themselves from premature GB failures. Good for us also la, but bad because we are paying for it lol...
I don't think they were wrong. What you have in your car right now is a fully synthetic ATF compared to the mineral stuff that was in your car from the factory. Did you complain about anything relating to your gearbox? Hard shifting? Bad FC? Fully synth ATF will take care of your GB better than mineral.
Maybe it's a new directive from the new mngmt at Naza Kia to protect themselves from premature GB failures. Good for us also la, but bad because we are paying for it lol...
I believe the same thing..it's the fully syn ATF instead of a normal mineral oil ATF..that will justify the higher price. For a heavy footed or a racing kaki that always shifting & revving to the max, it's worth to use this fully syn ATF to protect your GB..but for an uncle-like driver like myself or for a normal daily driving, using the recommended SPIII mineral ATF will do..no harm done
there is an Authorised SC only charged rm30 for labour service
QUOTE(ishumi @ Feb 22 2012, 08:36 AM)
rm30 for all labour service including major meh? where??
u willing to drive to KULIM...???
QUOTE(gregy @ Feb 22 2012, 09:04 AM)
What you have in your car right now is a fully synthetic ATF compared to the mineral stuff that was in your car from the factory. Maybe it's a new directive from the new mngmt at Naza Kia to protect themselves from premature GB failures. Good for us also la, but bad because we are paying for it lol...
ok since they change to full syn ATF, so how about the auto trans fluid replacement interval ? still every 40k km ? should be more higher (ie : 60k km)... or double it up to 80k km ?
[quote=epo,Feb 22 2012, 05:49 PM] [/quote] u willing to drive to KULIM...??? ok since they change to full syn ATF, so how about the auto trans fluid replacement interval ? still every 40k km ? should be more higher (ie : 60k km)... or double it up to 80k km ?
[/quote]
I was just talking to an SC (USJ 19) and she said that for the 6-sp model they use the fully synth ATF, every 40,000km intervals. Recommendation from HQ. She is charging RM7x per bottle.
Then what the diff with XP/209 ? 40k km too... more cheaper...
She said that this new 6-sp GB needs this SP-IV spec. In fact she claims that the 6-sp already came with SP-IV from the factory. Dunno la, I'm just tweeting what she said...
I believe the same thing..it's the fully syn ATF instead of a normal mineral oil ATF..that will justify the higher price. For a heavy footed or a racing kaki that always shifting & revving to the max, it's worth to use this fully syn ATF to protect your GB..but for an uncle-like driver like myself or for a normal daily driving, using the recommended SPIII mineral ATF will do..no harm done
Hi bro, since you have changed your rims from 17" to 16", can you let us know whether there is big difference in acceleration & fuel consumption? Ride comfort definitely would have increased & less painful on wallet when replacing tyres.
I am driving 1.6SX & want a bit of ommph..... 17" too big for 1.6 engine. Thanks!
Wah apa name SA itu ? free Bkit... isnt this rare?
His name is Chong. Rare?? few places I went they were offering tat as well.. I saw a better offer from one of the guys here that they gv free leather seat...I wanted tat!!!
His name is Chong. Rare?? few places I went they were offering tat as well.. I saw a better offer from one of the guys here that they gv free leather seat...I wanted tat!!!
Ok, thanks for the heads up.. in that case I'll ketuk kuat kuat for such freebies..
Hi bro, since you have changed your rims from 17" to 16", can you let us know whether there is big difference in acceleration & fuel consumption? Ride comfort definitely would have increased & less painful on wallet when replacing tyres.
I am driving 1.6SX & want a bit of ommph..... 17" too big for 1.6 engine. Thanks!
Not to mention there's a really big difference in acceleration..but obviously i can feel the urge & pull is better now (the car feels lighter)..changing from over 11kg of 17" rims to the 16" rims weighing just 7kg each will surely do good to acceleration. Easy acceleration means better FC especially in stop & go city driving..& that means, yaa..i can notice the improvement in FC also (for a city driving). For long highway trip however, i can safely say that there's no difference in FC..the onboard FC shows the same figure. Ride comfort..definitely better. Now can ride thru speed bump & small potholes with extra comfort & extra speed. No hard time avoiding potholes anymore..hehe.
But i have to say that..the 16" rims will somehow compromise the good looks of the car. So, i have to compromise a bit on the looks to gain the extra driving comfort (should i say better NVH), better acceleration & better FC..it's a win-win situation for me anyway My 2.0SX now can sprint off the line quicker..but i still drive like an uncle..haha
For 1.6SX..changing to 16" rims is a good move to get the extra ommph of your car..provided that, u opt for the lightweight rims
This post has been edited by izputra: Feb 23 2012, 04:44 PM
Not to mention there's a really big difference in acceleration..but obviously i can feel the urge & pull is better now (the car feels lighter)..changing from over 11kg of 17" rims to the 16" rims weighing just 7kg each will surely do good to acceleration. Easy acceleration means better FC especially in stop & go city driving..& that means, yaa..i can notice the improvement in FC also (for a city driving). For long highway trip however, i can safely say that there's no difference in FC..the onboard FC shows the same figure. Ride comfort..definitely better. Now can ride thru speed bump & small potholes with extra comfort & extra speed. No hard time avoiding potholes anymore..hehe.
But i have to say that..the 16" rims will somehow compromise the good looks of the car. So, i have to compromise a bit on the looks to gain the extra driving comfort (should i say better NVH), better acceleration & better FC..it's a win-win situation for me anyway My 2.0SX now can sprint off the line quicker..but i still drive like an uncle..haha
For 1.6SX..changing to 16" rims is a good move to get the extra ommph of your car..provided that, u opt for the lightweight rims
Either that or he could consider lightweight 17" wheels My OZ 17" are 3++ kg lighter than stock wheels. No need to change tyres or compromise the looks, but ride comfort only lah yg suffer sket.
Either that or he could consider lightweight 17" wheels My OZ 17" are 3++ kg lighter than stock wheels. No need to change tyres or compromise the looks, but ride comfort only lah yg suffer sket.
Yaa..agreed. If ride comfort is not the main concern..lightweight 17" rims will also do the trick...
got my forte sx 1.6 for about a weeks, when i am driving highway, the car seem to not going straight after i let free the steering, are there problem with the alignment for new car? mine is 6 speed
so how's the FC with ur lightweight 17" wheels?..improve alot?
which OZ model did you put in anyway?..how much does it cost?
FC improvement not much, maybe around 0.5l/100km. But the car very willing to sprint On a good week I can get around 8.5l/100km, mixed 70% city / 30% highway. For full city drive with the farkin morning jam five days a week, around 11l/100km hehe. Quite a big difference.
Hi folks...wanna ask something. Yesterday I parked my car in my company carpark. It's incidentally quite near to a football field but it's a valid carpark. When I came back after work in the evening, saw a huge crack on my forte front windshield. Those players came over and after some discussions,admitted that they did it, by accident. I've taken doen their names, contacts and ID, taken photos of the crack and my car, and lodged a report at my company security. Security said they will talk to HR and come back to me in a short while....
Unfortunately, I have not bought any insurance for my forte windshield...~~
So the question is who should pay for it. Those !@#&* players, or my company?
My tinting in total costs ~RM1200, and I've called my salesman and asked, the fron windshield costs around ~RM1800. So far my rear camera still working...
Any advice or comment from you guys would be much appreciated here, thanks.
got my forte sx 1.6 for about a weeks, when i am driving highway, the car seem to not going straight after i let free the steering, are there problem with the alignment for new car? mine is 6 speed
Normal, mine also, just send back to sc during your 1st service or if you cant wait, can send it back ASAP. FOC for new car before 1st time service.
Added on February 24, 2012, 1:03 pm
QUOTE(elllgie @ Feb 24 2012, 09:25 AM)
Hi folks...wanna ask something. Yesterday I parked my car in my company carpark. It's incidentally quite near to a football field but it's a valid carpark. When I came back after work in the evening, saw a huge crack on my forte front windshield. Those players came over and after some discussions,admitted that they did it, by accident. I've taken doen their names, contacts and ID, taken photos of the crack and my car, and lodged a report at my company security. Security said they will talk to HR and come back to me in a short while....
Unfortunately, I have not bought any insurance for my forte windshield...~~
So the question is who should pay for it. Those !@#&* players, or my company?
My tinting in total costs ~RM1200, and I've called my salesman and asked, the fron windshield costs around ~RM1800. So far my rear camera still working...
Any advice or comment from you guys would be much appreciated here, thanks.
The player should pay for it but if you mangae to ask them pay. Usually all the parking have the sign board mention park at your own risk and you have found the person who did it. So I think company wont pay for it
This post has been edited by Chai_YC: Feb 24 2012, 01:03 PM
FC improvement not much, maybe around 0.5l/100km. But the car very willing to sprint On a good week I can get around 8.5l/100km, mixed 70% city / 30% highway. For full city drive with the farkin morning jam five days a week, around 11l/100km hehe. Quite a big difference.
I'm using OZ Alleggerita, around RM1,150/pc.
May I know how many km is it already on your ODO meter?? Mine juz clocked 2000km 1months+ but the FC is still quite bad...About 10.7l/100km 50% highway and 50%city. Dun really speed much maybe juz once in a while on highway about 10mins 140km/h, 1-2 times per week Reading from the ODO meter shows 9.8l/100km but when I do my own calculation it shows 10.7l/100km
May I know how many km is it already on your ODO meter?? Mine juz clocked 2000km 1months+ but the FC is still quite bad...About 10.7l/100km 50% highway and 50%city. Dun really speed much maybe juz once in a while on highway about 10mins 140km/h, 1-2 times per week Reading from the ODO meter shows 9.8l/100km but when I do my own calculation it shows 10.7l/100km
Is this normal??
Hi, are you driving a 1.6SX? I am and the mileage I am getting is around 10.5l/100km actual. There is about 5% "bullshit error" means meter will show you lower l/100km reading. My mileage around 14K now. That is why I asked bro izputra about changing to 16" rims to improve FC & accleration.
Any other bros here can give modification suggestions to improve FC? Thanks!
Normal, mine also, just send back to sc during your 1st service or if you cant wait, can send it back ASAP. FOC for new car before 1st time service.
Added on February 24, 2012, 1:03 pm The player should pay for it but if you mangae to ask them pay. Usually all the parking have the sign board mention park at your own risk and you have found the person who did it. So I think company wont pay for it
Thanks for the reply Chai...still discussing with the players. Anyhow I still gotta go and get it fixed first using my own $$$. Sigh...lesson learnt to get insurance.
Just signed the loan documents and noticed the stupid dealer add in RM600 handling fee without telling me. I even asked last week if there are other costs involved and he said no. Didnt even want give me time to read through things i was supposed to sign. Just told me sign sign and tell me T/T direct to their personal account. Then an idiot guy keep trying to sell me security tint. When i asked if it was metallic or ceramic, he couldnt tell the difference.
Just signed the loan documents and noticed the stupid dealer add in RM600 handling fee without telling me. I even asked last week if there are other costs involved and he said no. Didnt even want give me time to read through things i was supposed to sign. Just told me sign sign and tell me T/T direct to their personal account. Then an idiot guy keep trying to sell me security tint. When i asked if it was metallic or ceramic, he couldnt tell the difference.
then which taiwan RIM brand is good? and what 16" tyre size should downgrade to?
If you want value for money and light you can try Advanti rims. As light as the high performance Jap or Italian rims but cheap. Dunno if it's just as strong or not, but since you're increasing the sidewall height of the tyres from 215/45 to 205/55 there is additional buffer to protect the rims so it shd be quite safe.
anyone here tried the F&N filter? does it help to improve the FC? Downgrading frm 17" to 16" really affect the overall looks laa....haiz
U mean K&N right? I used Simota Stainless Steel air filter instead. FC wise..i think it's hard to notice any improvement..but in term of car responsiveness, it's slightly better.
1. anyone drove his 1.6sx up go genting? how is the power?
2. how much should I top up if change to 16" RIM with tyre for a brand new forte? any specific brand/made by certain country of rim should I go?
considering whether going with 1.6sx or 2.0sx. thx
Juz went up yesterday. Going up bit steeper hill is like slightly underpower. And the main drawback of the 1.6 is that in order for u to drop gear u must move the gearknob to the left. I would suggest to go for 2.0 in order for u to fully enjoy the car
And the 12k extra is worth it. Leather seat, paddleshift without moving gear knob 6 airbags , cruise control. Regreting a bit now. Haha but guess i will still stick to it for years to come
Added on February 26, 2012, 11:44 amBut overall it's still good
This post has been edited by invinciblezero: Feb 26 2012, 11:44 AM
Juz went up yesterday. Going up bit steeper hill is like slightly underpower. And the main drawback of the 1.6 is that in order for u to drop gear u must move the gearknob to the left. I would suggest to go for 2.0 in order for u to fully enjoy the car
And the 12k extra is worth it. Leather seat, paddleshift without moving gear knob 6 airbags , cruise control. Regreting a bit now. Haha but guess i will still stick to it for years to come
Added on February 26, 2012, 11:44 amBut overall it's still good
thanks appreciate your feedback
Btw any forte 2.0 regrets not getting 1.6sx? If yes any reason like high fc, hot leather seat and etc?
This post has been edited by Intel@Atom: Feb 26 2012, 07:10 PM
Btw any forte 2.0 regrets not getting 1.6sx? If yes any reason like high fc, hot leather seat and etc?
I think there are more 1.6 regrets not getting 2.0....to me for the comparrison price between 2.0 forte and others 2.0 cars compare to forte 1.6 and others 1.6 cars...2.0 is more value for money..
Also the body and weight forte is just nice and more suitable for 2.0....anyway its all depend on your budget...if budget allow definitely go for 2.0!..
Juz went up yesterday. Going up bit steeper hill is like slightly underpower. And the main drawback of the 1.6 is that in order for u to drop gear u must move the gearknob to the left. I would suggest to go for 2.0 in order for u to fully enjoy the car
And the 12k extra is worth it. Leather seat, paddleshift without moving gear knob 6 airbags , cruise control. Regreting a bit now. Haha but guess i will still stick to it for years to come
Added on February 26, 2012, 11:44 amBut overall it's still good
civic better in handling, noise and vibration forte better, city out of question, my personal opinion from my earlier test drive . any bro here using nexen n8000? not sure if it bring significant differences compared to stock silverstone atlantis v7. since stock tyre are quite noisy on some kind of rough road. if change, u guys usually change 4 only or include the spare tyre as well? this is my second car, my first car before got chance to change tyre sold already.
I guess it also depends on your previous car as well. Like me, I'm currently driving a kelisa and they said terrible stuff about the interior of vios which I can't really agree much lol
I think there are more 1.6 regrets not getting 2.0....to me for the comparrison price between 2.0 forte and others 2.0 cars compare to forte 1.6 and others 1.6 cars...2.0 is more value for money..
Also the body and weight forte is just nice and more suitable for 2.0....anyway its all depend on your budget...if budget allow definitely go for 2.0!..
You are right man 2.0 owner will never feel regret for not getting 1.6 because you will appreciate the extra hp n torq offered by 2.0 Btw,I don't think 2.0 forte fc is bad,if we compared apple to apple,for instance, compare with civic 2.0, forte definitely has better fc. I can confirm this because my sister in law driving civic 2.0.
My 2.0 forte pump 50 ron95 can go for 310 km.70% highway and 30% city
anybody change the battery before? need some info for what kind of battery is good for the car.. Thanks
I changed my original car battery after using it for 1 year 9 months. My original battery is MF48-23GL. After some discussion with my trusted battery supplier, i ended up with the new maintenance free Century Marathoner 55D23L c/w 15 month warranty. Note that mine is Forte 2.0. I noticed that Forte 1.6 use different battery model/capacity.
Not to say what battery is good..but as long as u choose a branded/reputable one, u should be on the safe side provided that the battery capacity is matched (or higher) with the original battery
Added on February 27, 2012, 4:33 pm
QUOTE(squareballs @ Feb 27 2012, 12:01 AM)
I dont think 2.0 owners will look back at 1.6..
Yeahh..u are absolutely right. There's no turning back & no regret at all...
This post has been edited by izputra: Feb 27 2012, 04:33 PM
ya if u can afford get 2.0, i want lower installment, lower road tax, and suppose lower fc in city..so no choice.
rattling noise seems less or gone for newer batch.. maybe just some here and there noise after sometime that will mostly haunt every car regardless of brand. alignment problem not sure, but mine have no problem with it so far.
dvinez , u driving 1.6sx ?? hw long u with forte ? mind to share ur payment and everything like loan how much and d/p and for how many years ??
1.6sx..bought it december last year. downpayment 25k@2.57@9yrs@700
last time i roughly calculated..depends on your loan amount every 10K extra downpayment, u save about 1K-3K interest for 9yrs, and lower the installment for almost 100.
since bank fixed deposit return is already 3.15, and loan interest only 2.57, so i guess better put in fixed deposit or other higher investment, but not too less until it burden myself.
I changed my original car battery after using it for 1 year 9 months. My original battery is MF48-23GL. After some discussion with my trusted battery supplier, i ended up with the new maintenance free Century Marathoner 55D23L c/w 15 month warranty. Note that mine is Forte 2.0. I noticed that Forte 1.6 use different battery model/capacity.
Not to say what battery is good..but as long as u choose a branded/reputable one, u should be on the safe side provided that the battery capacity is matched (or higher) with the original battery
Added on February 27, 2012, 4:33 pm Yeahh..u are absolutely right. There's no turning back & no regret at all...
In fact I've test drove the 2.0 twice.. but still yet to buy..
ya if u can afford get 2.0, i want lower installment, lower road tax, and suppose lower fc in city..so no choice.
rattling noise seems less or gone for newer batch.. maybe just some here and there noise after sometime that will mostly haunt every car regardless of brand. alignment problem not sure, but mine have no problem with it so far.
nowdays everywhere oso jam, drive any >1.8 cars oso dun have the feeling edi...
nowdays everywhere oso jam, drive any >1.8 cars oso dun have the feeling edi...
some always go outstation...some cannot tahan kena cucuk inspira..then get 2.0 hehe.. but ball is most important, always got vios cucuk me in plus highway..i go in then cucuk back..lol
so the first (1000KM) service, they will only change engine oil and oil filter and they MIGHT do alignment. they don't do a 21 point inspection or something?
they better not touch my paint work! if I want my car to be washed I'll go to a detailing shop. Thanks for the info dvinez I will let them know not to wash my car
This post has been edited by yo el rey: Feb 28 2012, 11:25 AM
they better not touch my paint work! if I want my car to be washed I'll go to a detailing shop. Thanks for the info dvinez I will let them know not to wash my car
ya i always inform them but sometime they forget and drive to queue to wash..better watch your car.
bro... what's the symptoms when the battery started to kong...?
That's the thing. The night before, the car able to start as usual, but the very next morning, it simply fails to crank up to life. No symptom at all i have to say (or maybe i'm not too concerning on that)..so, better pay a little more attention from now on any small symptom (if any) of weakening battery
hi everyone... im currently looking for a car that is under 100k and some forum advise me to get this car instead of others... so im here seeking advise from the owners of this car... should i or should i not get this good looking car? how is the performance compare to spectra? any problem so far?
and i also thinking about taking the 2.0sx version...
This post has been edited by Alfizzan: Feb 28 2012, 11:02 PM
hi everyone... im currently looking for a car that is under 100k and some forum advise me to get this car instead of others... so im here seeking advise from the owners of this car... should i or should i not get this good looking car? how is the performance compare to spectra? any problem so far? and i also thinking about taking the 2.0sx version...
If you want to see what issues Forte has - read through the thread, the common issues has been brought up a few times (alignment, minor noise, etc). Other than that, the car works just fine. I'm driving a 1.6sx and so far I have no complains (25,000KM closing in to 1 year now..).
Comparing this to Spectra? Big difference............................
One regret that I had was why I didn't go for 2.0 instead of 1.6.. Forte is a pretty heavy car so 1.6 might feel a lil under power during pick up, but I love forte for the stability during high speed.
Go and test drive all the cars below 100K so you can have a better understanding on how different they are from one another and also know why we went for Forte instead of other brands..
Cars that I know below 100k (Sedan, not hatchback or small cars) and I've tested:
1. Honda City (my 2nd option after Forte back then, but the waiting list was crazy long and it's kinda small for me... Forte, due to the design, it's pretty big and spacious ) 2. Toyota Vios 3. Proton Inspira 4. Chevrolet Cruze 5. Nissan Sentra 6. Mazda 2 7. Peugeot 207
There are some concerns around the 2nd hand value for Forte (since Korean cars are not as popular as JP cars), but for me the driving comfort matters most, don't really give a crap about the 2nd hand value... Cars, anyhow, will depreciate anyways..
One regret that I had was why I didn't go for 2.0 instead of 1.6.. Forte is a pretty heavy car so 1.6 might feel a lil under power during pick up, but I love forte for the stability during high speed.
Go and test drive all the cars below 100K so you can have a better understanding on how different they are from one another and also know why we went for Forte instead of other brands..
There are some concerns around the 2nd hand value for Forte (since Korean cars are not as popular as JP cars), but for me the driving comfort matters most, don't really give a crap about the 2nd hand value... Cars, anyhow, will depreciate anyways..
Hope this helps..
agreed
these went into my shortlist last time, my own opinion only..i no need vroomm vrommm, decent enough.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
QUOTE
Honda City small, good looking at front, not much difference from my blm, size/interior, feel tin milo, decent specs, i do not feel upgraded, tried naik bukit got the turbo voice like proton engine also.
Toyota Vios since everyone is so hype about it, i gave it a try. feel exactly like my blm. nothing to shout about. specs out, interior out, design out, price out.
Proton Inspira since it is a lancer i tested it, looks sporty and furious, handling is good but somehow the interior looks cheap and dull to me, i am still okay but wife object a proton.
Chevrolet Cruze body and door feel solid, sporty and classy looking, sit front it doesnt feel right for me, rear feel smaller than forte and inspira, i did not test drive cos i does not like it at all.
Mazda 3 overall good, love the soft dashboard plastic, sat on my friend's 2.0, i can only afford 1.6 but the specs doesnt make me happy and the cramped rear is a real let down.
Mazda 2 too small, rear is cramped too, handling good, read forums got quite negative details, feel no upgrade as well.
Nissan Sentra quite interested but after sat in friend's sentra, i am only 165cm, after adjusted front seat, rear is so cramped, and the technology is so old.
Nissan Latio very comfortable as i sat in my friend's car occasionally, due to specs and technology i forget it, plus it looks like blm big brother.
Peugeot 207 same as mazda 2, love its lion logo at front but hate its door handle, it is so yesterday.
Kia Forte i do not really fancy it design, but i do love it very much after installed with bodykit. space and comfort are very good, better than civic, power are decent for 1.6. initially i disliked the handling, even blm handles better, but when i become used with it, it handles really good. specs wise and price wise no need to explain. rear door feel tin milo which is a let down.
Guys, when do you check the car? Before the SA register the car or after register before leaving the showroom? If register already you find faults on the car then how? Cant change on the spot right?
Guys, when do you check the car? Before the SA register the car or after register before leaving the showroom? If register already you find faults on the car then how? Cant change on the spot right?
I remember someone mentioned before that before collecting the car, if you saw that there's unacceptable problems with the car... you have right to not sign the documents...
I remember someone mentioned before that before collecting the car, if you saw that there's unacceptable problems with the car... you have right to not sign the documents...
Wait, so meaning after sign the loan agreement then before taking the car have to sign something else? Anyody care to elaborate.
Wait, so meaning after sign the loan agreement then before taking the car have to sign something else? Anyody care to elaborate.
after that just sign the checklist to show that u're ok with the car when delivered to you. do a thorough check, bring a friend along is best to check the lights, spot any dents, paint chips, scratches, etc.
hope to get a 2.0sx..but im afraid of the pull to left problem...new batches still got this problem?
Hi, I just got my 2.0 white beauty last Saturday. So far everything looks good. No pull left issue for me. No noise whatsoever. Maybe 2012 batch better?
One issue I'm having is the body kit. The doublesided tape not doing its magic. Brought it to the accessory shop this morning to redo EVERYTHING but just now notice come out again The accessory shop lady explain say that if kena water is like that. Need to let the adhesive dry for 3 days.. Now everyday raining... how laaaa???
after that just sign the checklist to show that u're ok with the car when delivered to you. do a thorough check, bring a friend along is best to check the lights, spot any dents, paint chips, scratches, etc.
Agreed. Try to collect your car earlier so you have more luxury time to check all the parts. Some defects is more obvious ample light. For my case, I just have bare time to check most of the parts, but leave all the plastic wrapped parts remain unchecked (where I presume no issue as it nicely wrapped.)....end up, found a long scratch on the leather handle after back home and removed all the plastics.
So far haven't gone for 1st 1000km service yet.. so I've been driving quite tamely these few days. Fuel consumption about 10L/100km. Traveled about 240km already and I've still got slightly less than half tank.. I've yet to refill my petrol yet. hahaha
Waiting for the call from dealer to collect car! should be either today or tomorrow. Car sitting in dealership since Tuesday morning. not very attentive during work today haha...
Waiting for the call from dealer to collect car! should be either today or tomorrow. Car sitting in dealership since Tuesday morning. not very attentive during work today haha...
oem usually meant china stuff but for these kind of stuff actually all also from china the problem is to source good quality one
who wanna buy, i am considering 1450 without installation, ready stock can collect this saturday. main worry is the big black plastic scratch become ugly later lol.
I remember someone mentioned before that before collecting the car, if you saw that there's unacceptable problems with the car... you have right to not sign the documents...
QUOTE(CyberKewl @ Feb 29 2012, 07:14 PM)
after that just sign the checklist to show that u're ok with the car when delivered to you. do a thorough check, bring a friend along is best to check the lights, spot any dents, paint chips, scratches, etc.
Thanks. So meaning if i find any faults before I sign the checklist I can request for another car?
oem usually meant china stuff but for these kind of stuff actually all also from china the problem is to source good quality one
who wanna buy, i am considering 1450 without installation, ready stock can collect this saturday. main worry is the big black plastic scratch become ugly later lol.
Hmm... interesting. I would expect an almost perfect implementation. Guess it isn't perfect.
this is type with decent sound and features to looks good on our car, branded cost about RM2-3K with less features but better sound, but look will suffer. or if have big budget you can u get original from kia/naza that will probably be perfect which cost RM5.5K, but there are also chances that they are getting from same supplier.
received my forte 1.6sx yesterday. no problems at all except for the pulling to the left, only noticeable when driving on ELITE hiway. Nothing a good tyre shop can't fix.
cannot i think, cos it is already registered to you. u can ask them fix it..usually is scratches..
Yeah this what I meant. Meaning if i want to check the car I need to check it before they register to my name right? If not if already registered then have to let them fix, which is a waste of time.
Yeah this what I meant. Meaning if i want to check the car I need to check it before they register to my name right? If not if already registered then have to let them fix, which is a waste of time.
yes, check before registered, i am cannot wait type..i asked my sa to check for me then terus go register. during ambik found 1 tiny tiny dot scratch at bumper, i ask for discount but they touch up for me, hard to see but can try hard to see. few days later i bought touch up paint cos i calar somewhere else and fix that part too.
if u change logo, check for paint work around that area, usually some cacat workmanship will scratch or peel the paint nearby. if peel off really ugly.
Yeah this what I meant. Meaning if i want to check the car I need to check it before they register to my name right? If not if already registered then have to let them fix, which is a waste of time.
Sadly, there are some things we can't check. Like things that are wrapped in plastic. I don't think they will allow you to tear open the plastic wrapper to inspect the whole car lol... So most of the time we just have to go for warranty claims...
What I meant, is that they won't allow you to inspect a car thoroughly by tearing away all the plastic wrapping and then decide you don't want this unit.
This post has been edited by gregy: Mar 1 2012, 05:13 PM
hey guys, jz curious to ask. what are the stock tyres that came with your car? i had silverstones n honestly those wheels are bad..they are not perfectly rounded.my car was vibrating quite hard at high speed. resolved when i changed to yokohamas. appreciate ur feedback on this
hey guys, jz curious to ask. what are the stock tyres that came with your car? i had silverstones n honestly those wheels are bad..they are not perfectly rounded.my car was vibrating quite hard at high speed. resolved when i changed to yokohamas. appreciate ur feedback on this
any improvement at the road noise? how much damage?
my stock silverstone, can reach 170 without vibrate.
if i change to 215/50/17, does it brings significant comfort difference than our stock 215/45/50. if not i better stay at stock size.
wah, forte depreciation value high ar? how many %?
not to say forte depreciation high. what I mean is better to get 2012 stock rather than 2011 stock, coz RM2K doesn't justify at all for 1Y depreciation.
hey guys, jz curious to ask. what are the stock tyres that came with your car? i had silverstones n honestly those wheels are bad..they are not perfectly rounded.my car was vibrating quite hard at high speed. resolved when i changed to yokohamas. appreciate ur feedback on this
mine came with Kumho KH17 when i bought in Feb 2011 (6 speed). As I know later / current batches come with Silverstone, possibly due to complaints on noise from Kumho tyres but Kumho tyres that was given are more longer lasting if not mistaken.
everyone is getting silverstones after 2011 i think. mine also vibrate at high speed around 120
QUOTE(craxors @ Mar 2 2012, 10:36 AM)
air pressure not enough maybe... me no vibrate even on 180....silverstone also...
went to tire shop, he jacked it up n let the wheel free spin, can see the wheel spinning slightly off center. says quite a few forte owners came by to dump their silverstones for michelins or yokohamas
QUOTE(dvinez @ Mar 2 2012, 12:16 PM)
any improvement at the road noise? how much damage?
my stock silverstone, can reach 170 without vibrate.
if i change to 215/50/17, does it brings significant comfort difference than our stock 215/45/50. if not i better stay at stock size.
road noise is relatively low on new tyres, just the vibration at about 140 onwards on d old tyres which are now resolved.no damage really (im still at 2k mileage so thank god i swapped them out before they spoilt anything else)
current tyres are using yokohama 205/55/16 (i own a EX not SX)
This post has been edited by Ah Shawn: Mar 2 2012, 02:56 PM
Forte value sure still lower than T&H, but in term of korean car resale value from past few yrs(from spectra time), had been increase significantly..... 2010 Forte 1.6 SX cost close to 82k, but after 3 years (2012), still can sell around 6xk.....consider quite high...
and KH17 kumho tyres are build for wet grip....that's y it's so noisy due to the tyre pattern of the tyre....according to few tyre shops i asked around, they said those tyres which build for grip during rainny days like PS3, F1 Asymetric 1/2, are more noisier than 'old man tyre'..which means soft tyres which offers more comfort n less noise...for example yokohama C-drive, falken ZIEX.....i've used kumho tyres with stock rims for 2 years, still around 60% left thread....around 34k kilomileage...
1.6sx..bought it december last year. downpayment 25k@2.57@9yrs@700
last time i roughly calculated..depends on your loan amount every 10K extra downpayment, u save about 1K-3K interest for 9yrs, and lower the installment for almost 100.
since bank fixed deposit return is already 3.15, and loan interest only 2.57, so i guess better put in fixed deposit or other higher investment, but not too less until it burden myself.
Thanks for the sharing...I am still thinking on the payment part..budget montly installment is ok, but worrying about the maintenance mileage more service more expensive...TT
Thanks for the sharing...I am still thinking on the payment part..budget montly installment is ok, but worrying about the maintenance mileage more service more expensive...TT
Need some help.. since my SX forte is White colour, but my so many small black dot stick at my car and I cant wash it away, what should I do? Damn rain.. didnt wash 3 days only, my car beside sh.t..
Need some help.. since my SX forte is White colour, but my so many small black dot stick at my car and I cant wash it away, what should I do? Damn rain.. didnt wash 3 days only, my car beside sh.t..
hav you try polish ?? or use polish cream try to rub it ur self...?
Need some help.. since my SX forte is White colour, but my so many small black dot stick at my car and I cant wash it away, what should I do? Damn rain.. didnt wash 3 days only, my car beside sh.t..
dun try to use nails to scratch. go buy a piece of auto detailing clay, preferably hard clay from a good shop like autobacs. it will remove the black spots
I didnt wax before... I need to wax it myself? Anyway, what is deailing clay? can buy it at jaya jusco?
go to the jusco car detailing stuff and see if they have. it looks like plasticine. spray some shampoo on the black spots and rub the clay over and over, making sure its very lubricated. it will lift embedded dirt off the body work.
this is very different from waxing. claying removes embedded dirt by lifing it off from the paint. polish removes a layer of paintwork, making the newly exposed paintwork look fresh. waxing leaves a layer of oils on the paintwork for gloss and protection.
I realized when i drive at only 100km/hr onwards, my steering starts to vibrate already. Is this normal though? 100km/hr is nothing for a 6-speed car. :S
dun try to use nails to scratch. go buy a piece of auto detailing clay, preferably hard clay from a good shop like autobacs. it will remove the black spots
I realized when i drive at only 100km/hr onwards, my steering starts to vibrate already. Is this normal though? 100km/hr is nothing for a 6-speed car. :S
go to the jusco car detailing stuff and see if they have. it looks like plasticine. spray some shampoo on the black spots and rub the clay over and over, making sure its very lubricated. it will lift embedded dirt off the body work.
this is very different from waxing. claying removes embedded dirt by lifing it off from the paint. polish removes a layer of paintwork, making the newly exposed paintwork look fresh. waxing leaves a layer of oils on the paintwork for gloss and protection.
polish will remove paintwork? you mean my car paint will come out?
I just bought the car for less than a month , six speed , having alignment issue pull to the left, but i go to SC twice and they get the alighment done 3 times for me!
walah, it is fix and go straight it ever can, just alighment issue
some forte encounter this issue and some did not
for 2.0 sx , the power steering is motor driven, so the alignment is all done computerised, will not have the pull to the left issue unlike hydralic steering on 1.6sx
so anyone that got alignment issue, just go SC to fix it,it is cover under warranty for under 1000km , the worst case senario is to change the camber nut which cost under rm100 , SC will do it for you
i am doing the service at penang island, great service and is very personal care, they even fetch me to go shopping and take back the car to me after fix
polish will remove paintwork? you mean my car paint will come out?
our paintwork is abt the thickness of a human hair. measured in microns. on top of the colour coat, there is another clear coat, which makes the paint glow and reflective. (think of it as nail varnish)
polishing compound contains abrasives (tink of it as liquid sandpaper). so when you polish it, a certain thickness of the clearcoat will be "sanded" off and gone forever. so the car will look bling bling because the dull layer has been "sanded" off. hence, it isn't recommended to polish very frequently as the clearcoat will become thinner.
i went for some detailing workshops by swissvax and zaino last time. what i usually do is shampoo wash, followed by claying process. then wash again. completely dry the car, then do hand polish for the paint. buff off the polish. apply sealant. after curing, apply the wax.
Added on March 3, 2012, 7:44 amoh and today is my collection day
going breakfast then 9am sharp going my dealer! haha
This post has been edited by cyktai: Mar 3 2012, 07:44 AM
I wonder if the new figures applies to the 6-speed Forte only since it clearly stated that the price is for the 6-speed Forte. So for us with a 4 speeder, the original figure are still applicable?
This post has been edited by izputra: Mar 3 2012, 03:52 PM
I realized when i drive at only 100km/hr onwards, my steering starts to vibrate already. Is this normal though? 100km/hr is nothing for a 6-speed car. :S
Please help. What should I do?
Its part of Korean technology.I have been talking about this countless times.And I can bet you its nothing to do with alignment and balancing.Its just like a Myvi,once you reach 140kmh,the whole steering vibrates and its got nothing to do alignment and balancing.Its just that their technology is not up to mark..
You dont get these kinda things in Japs
This post has been edited by kevin23: Mar 3 2012, 05:10 PM
our paintwork is abt the thickness of a human hair. measured in microns. on top of the colour coat, there is another clear coat, which makes the paint glow and reflective. (think of it as nail varnish)
polishing compound contains abrasives (tink of it as liquid sandpaper). so when you polish it, a certain thickness of the clearcoat will be "sanded" off and gone forever. so the car will look bling bling because the dull layer has been "sanded" off. hence, it isn't recommended to polish very frequently as the clearcoat will become thinner.
i went for some detailing workshops by swissvax and zaino last time. what i usually do is shampoo wash, followed by claying process. then wash again. completely dry the car, then do hand polish for the paint. buff off the polish. apply sealant. after curing, apply the wax.
Added on March 3, 2012, 7:44 amoh and today is my collection day
going breakfast then 9am sharp going my dealer! haha
As you can see, even if i wash my car, my car will stil remain dirty due to the small black dot (a lot) .. is it need to clear the black dot away 1st? But how?
Its part of Korean technology.I have been talking about this countless times.And I can bet you its nothing to do with alignment and balancing.Its just like a Myvi,once you reach 140kmh,the whole steering vibrates and its got nothing to do alignment and balancing.Its just that their technology is not up to mark..
You dont get these kinda things in Japs
If it's part of Korean technology that their cars vibrate above 100km/h then my Forte must have been made with non-Korean technology since I don't have this problem.
And there are plenty of Jap and Conti cars having this issue. So those cars must have been made using Korean technology?
Whole F&F know kevin23 is K-basher since 2010... He'll talk2 like his brain is at his cock... kakaka... And still wondering why he still hovering around in K thread...
I realized when i drive at only 100km/hr onwards, my steering starts to vibrate already. Is this normal though? 100km/hr is nothing for a 6-speed car. :S
Please help. What should I do?
QUOTE(squareballs @ Mar 2 2012, 10:06 PM)
go for balancing and alignment.
im not sure if this helps, but look at my previous post. i had this problem too. what tyres are u using? i've been told n shown by outside mechanic that silverstone stocks for the 2011, 2012 batches have a problem with their tyre shape. try asking them to jack it up n free wheel it for u, u might notice it spins slightly off center. if thats d case, u will probably have vibrating problems no matter how much weights u add during balancing. i've used michelin & yokohamas before and after my change to a yokohama, no more vibration. of course, this might not be the case, so look into this as possible problem on ur case. btw my yokohamas are 205/55/16. if u identify this as a problem, u shud do it asap so u can get a good price on wheel trade in as its unused
just that if u have the persistent pulling to the left problem, that could be camber related. i have yet to investigate this problem although a forumer has advised me on how to proceed on this.
This post has been edited by Ah Shawn: Mar 3 2012, 08:03 PM
Whole F&F know kevin23 is K-basher since 2010... He'll talk2 like his brain is at his cock... kakaka... And still wondering why he still hovering around in K thread...
dunno, his brain is anti-K, but is heart love-K...juz he can't afford it or bought wrong brand(P brand)...hehehe
Added on March 3, 2012, 9:24 pm
QUOTE(kevin23 @ Mar 3 2012, 06:08 PM)
Its part of Korean technology.I have been talking about this countless times.And I can bet you its nothing to do with alignment and balancing.Its just like a Myvi,once you reach 140kmh,the whole steering vibrates and its got nothing to do alignment and balancing.Its just that their technology is not up to mark..
You dont get these kinda things in Japs
say, my Toyota Corolla SEG AE101, once reached 95km/h start hear wind noise, start feel vibrations.......but is Jap car, not Korean car...Myvi, a copy of Jap's Daihatsu n Toyota.....so??? any more bashing 2 do with 'KOREAN TECH VS. JAP TECH'?? even 199x mercedes benz....brake can't makan, when engaging P to R, whole car vibrates seriously...dun tell my mercedes benz uses korean tech too....
This post has been edited by XionCity: Mar 3 2012, 09:24 PM
Its part of Korean technology.I have been talking about this countless times.And I can bet you its nothing to do with alignment and balancing.Its just like a Myvi,once you reach 140kmh,the whole steering vibrates and its got nothing to do alignment and balancing.Its just that their technology is not up to mark..
that means any car that vibrates at 140 is actually a korean car in disguise. it plays to the tune "Koreans in disguise" (sounds familiar? Transformers anyone?). Kevin23 is obviously an id10t so what can I say?
that means any car that vibrates at 140 is actually a korean car in disguise. it plays to the tune "Koreans in disguise" (sounds familiar? Transformers anyone?). Kevin23 is obviously an id10t so what can I say?
My waja does not vibrate at 140.. so i think it has jap blood..
Its part of Korean technology.I have been talking about this countless times.And I can bet you its nothing to do with alignment and balancing.Its just like a Myvi,once you reach 140kmh,the whole steering vibrates and its got nothing to do alignment and balancing.Its just that their technology is not up to mark..
You dont get these kinda things in Japs
wow my 1.6sx i think is conti then..i can go 170 smooth!
Guys, I remember last time there's some post sharing about the leather seat wrapping service But I can't find the details of the shop now Can someone help? Thanks in million ~!
guys...how far can u go with full tank? do share as im thinking of getting 1 myself end of this month.. ^^
FC = depending on your right foot.
full tank for my 2.0L - full highway cruising, the furthest I got out of it before warning lights came on was around 580km. for city driving usually 420-430km with around 50-60km left according to the car's computer, and I do drive quite fast even in cities.
Sadly, there are some things we can't check. Like things that are wrapped in plastic. I don't think they will allow you to tear open the plastic wrapper to inspect the whole car lol... So most of the time we just have to go for warranty claims...
What I meant, is that they won't allow you to inspect a car thoroughly by tearing away all the plastic wrapping and then decide you don't want this unit.
Lucky me, I actually opened up all the plastics when I took my car, I had the same problem as well, there was a very obvious scratch line at the back seat. The SA had to change my whole back seat - during then there was a 1.6 changing to Leather seat so they just swapped the seat to my car and it's done.
My friend took his car also had the same issue, there was a scratch line at his middle compartment (where you put keys etc)
So good advise for all, please open up the plastics and check for scratches.
I'm interested to test drive a forte. Can u recommend a showroom in PJ or KJ that gives friendly services? Don't want to be pushed for purchase during the test drive.
Also, do u think it's worth to pay extra 10k to get the 2.0sx? Will the FC increase?
I'm interested to test drive a forte. Can u recommend a showroom in PJ or KJ that gives friendly services? Don't want to be pushed for purchase during the test drive.
Also, do u think it's worth to pay extra 10k to get the 2.0sx? Will the FC increase?
Vincent
I am interested too, maybe we can meet up and go for a test drive together..
I'm interested to test drive a forte. Can u recommend a showroom in PJ or KJ that gives friendly services? Don't want to be pushed for purchase during the test drive.
Also, do u think it's worth to pay extra 10k to get the 2.0sx? Will the FC increase?
Vincent
For the extra 12k..u will get :
1) Of course the 2.0L engine..extra power & acceleration on your right foot 2) 6 airbags 3) Cruise Control 4) Leather Seat 5) Motor Driven Power Steering
Worth your 12k? It's your money..your life anyway
In term of FC, for city driving, u should expect a bit higher in FC comparing to the 1.6 Forte but it justify the extra 'kick' that u have. For highway driving, i can say that the FC is more or less the same with the 1.6 Forte (if not better).
This post has been edited by izputra: Mar 5 2012, 12:52 PM
Anyone knows people that can do car plate? My car is not even 1 year and the car plate in front 1 letter came off... zzzz... The quality of the number plates also kinda crappy..
Anyone knows people that can do car plate? My car is not even 1 year and the car plate in front 1 letter came off... zzzz... The quality of the number plates also kinda crappy..
1) Of course the 2.0L engine..extra power & acceleration on your right foot 2) 6 airbags 3) Cruise Control 4) Leather Seat 5) Motor Driven Power Steering
Worth your 12k? It's your money..your life anyway
In term of FC, for city driving, u should expect a bit higher in FC comparing to the 1.6 Forte but it justify the extra 'kick' that u have. For highway driving, i can say that the FC is more or less the same with the 1.6 Forte (if not better).
Usually if have the budget, no need to ask this question.... direct buy the 2.0 For people like me, budget a bit tight - hati mau 2.0 tapi poket cukup untuk 1.6 - then will see whether extra justified for 2.0 or not.
It is not only the 12K - you need to add interest on the 12K, extra road tax, extra insurance for the goodies & the "extra kick in the backside" for something that is not going to last forever. Just my point of view.
For me, 1.6SX good enough for what I have paid for..... imagine getting a Vios for that price
Usually if have the budget, no need to ask this question.... direct buy the 2.0 For people like me, budget a bit tight - hati mau 2.0 tapi poket cukup untuk 1.6 - then will see whether extra justified for 2.0 or not.
It is not only the 12K - you need to add interest on the 12K, extra road tax, extra insurance for the goodies & the "extra kick in the backside" for something that is not going to last forever. Just my point of view.
For me, 1.6SX good enough for what I have paid for..... imagine getting a Vios for that price
exactly. vios just kosong car like saga BLM but have ABS and EBD..that's it..lol
Usually if have the budget, no need to ask this question.... direct buy the 2.0 For people like me, budget a bit tight - hati mau 2.0 tapi poket cukup untuk 1.6 - then will see whether extra justified for 2.0 or not.
It is not only the 12K - you need to add interest on the 12K, extra road tax, extra insurance for the goodies & the "extra kick in the backside" for something that is not going to last forever. Just my point of view.
For me, 1.6SX good enough for what I have paid for..... imagine getting a Vios for that price
I am looking for a new car as a replacement for my old iswara and after doing some survey, i am deeply interested with kia forte 1.6SX.
As this will be my first car (buying using my own money), I would like to ask some questions:
1. Due to my parents intervention, they are against me on buying Korean cars whereby from the rumors they heard (which i somewhat disagree with them) that spare parts for the korean cars is somewhat expensive. To what degree is it true to this? Will it be the same if its Honda? or Toyota or perhaps Ford cars?
2. 9-year loan. All the disadvantages regarding 9-year loan for a car aside, will i actually secure any loans for this period of time if i wanted to buy the car? Or maximum period of loan repayment is capped for 7-years? This will be my 1st time buying my own car, appreciate some advises on this.
I am looking for a new car as a replacement for my old iswara and after doing some survey, i am deeply interested with kia forte 1.6SX.
As this will be my first car (buying using my own money), I would like to ask some questions:
1. Due to my parents intervention, they are against me on buying Korean cars whereby from the rumors they heard (which i somewhat disagree with them) that spare parts for the korean cars is somewhat expensive. To what degree is it true to this? Will it be the same if its Honda? or Toyota or perhaps Ford cars?
2. 9-year loan. All the disadvantages regarding 9-year loan for a car aside, will i actually secure any loans for this period of time if i wanted to buy the car? Or maximum period of loan repayment is capped for 7-years? This will be my 1st time buying my own car, appreciate some advises on this.
Thanks!
To answer Q1.. I've did quite some research on this matter for some time before choosing the Forte. Look at the roads now. No doubt that there a lot of Toyotas and Hondas around, however look at the number of Fortes. The number of Fortes on the road has increased drastically. Yes, parts are expensive now because less demand for it means the price for the parts will be higher (not to mention "grade A" spares). But in the near future, I feel that there will definitely be more demand thus more parts = cheaper parts
Then you look at the price of a Forte and see what it offers in terms of functionality. Honda City and Toyota Vios for the same price you get an empty car. Some people might argue and say that toyota and honda handling better. You go test drive all those 3 cars (toyota, honda and forte). They aren't far apart Then you have to consider, Forte is same class as Civic and Altis. Way cheaper too! Cannot compare with Civic's performance ofcourse If I had the money, will definitely go for Civic
Btw, fellow Forte owners out there. Got experience any door issues? My car, after 2 weeks now, I only realize got problem with my back left door. From inside sometimes cannot open! see mood one. When I went to the SC this morning and told that guy, his expression was "again???" Not sure how many of you experience this issue
I am looking for a new car as a replacement for my old iswara and after doing some survey, i am deeply interested with kia forte 1.6SX.
As this will be my first car (buying using my own money), I would like to ask some questions:
1. Due to my parents intervention, they are against me on buying Korean cars whereby from the rumors they heard (which i somewhat disagree with them) that spare parts for the korean cars is somewhat expensive. To what degree is it true to this? Will it be the same if its Honda? or Toyota or perhaps Ford cars?
2. 9-year loan. All the disadvantages regarding 9-year loan for a car aside, will i actually secure any loans for this period of time if i wanted to buy the car? Or maximum period of loan repayment is capped for 7-years? This will be my 1st time buying my own car, appreciate some advises on this.
Thanks!
Answer for Q1, parts for Forte are imported from Korea...parts and shipment, that's why they're expensive, while Jap their parts are locally made...for CKD models, thus goes with CKD quality....of coz would fit them n is reasonable cheap, but if u go for imported Jap cars like Toyota Alphard Vellfire/Honda Odyssey CBU, Toyota Estima CBU unit...or now newest Toyota PRIUS (new facelift)/PRIUS C, Honda CRZ/Insight....try ask honda dealer and toyota dealer quote u original OEM parts fully imported from Japan n see....then only is a fair comparison for Korean car parts......Ford??? hohoho, dun mentioned about Ford and conti...they spare parts....way higher than Malaysian, China, Korean and Japanese cars...
Answer for Q2, the least year amount of loan, the better...in between 5yrs, 7yrs, and 9 yrs...5 yrs will b the best, while 7yrs is juz ok....for 9yrs, juz like u r giving 'free' money to the bank....calculate loan for 7yrs n 9yrs.....then minus the loan amount+interest....u will c the difference....
hi guys, anybody have sos other than SC for damaged/broken rear lights plastic cover? the bulb is still ok, only the plastic housig/cover for the rear lights got hit by a motorcycle so if any of u sifu know where & what price can get replacement other than SC i will really appreciate it
btw SC quoted about rm380 for it. thanks in advance.
My driver door started rattling/vibrating...I ignored it Then came my left passenger's door......I ignored it as well Yesterday I heard an even loud rattling sound from the compartment/glovebox area....Really got on my nerve
I went to KIA SC somewhere 9 in the morning. They took out the door panels put FOAM tape on the clips/joints, dismaltel half of my dashboard, put it back ant it was about 1pm
Took my car went 1 round with the SC guy..there was still noise from the dashboard, this time higher. He said they were going for lunch. I thought of bringing it back after lunch but thought that i might risk leaving my car there overnite because after lunch there will only be about 3hours for them to rectify it
I took my car home and OTW to work, everythings STARTS to rattle/vibrate again...WTH??
I will be going again tomorrow and get them to rectify this...DAMN