If you want value for money and light you can try Advanti rims. As light as the high performance Jap or Italian rims but cheap. Dunno if it's just as strong or not, but since you're increasing the sidewall height of the tyres from 215/45 to 205/55 there is additional buffer to protect the rims so it shd be quite safe.

Here is a simple way to calculate loan payments:

Example:
Car price: RM100,000
D/p 10%: RM10,000
Loan amount: RM90,000
Int.: 2.5% p.a.
Tenure: 7yrs

First, establish total interest in percentage: 2.5 x 7 = 17.5%

Ok, now take the loan amount, RM90,000 and multiply by total interest:
=> RM90,000 x 1.175
= RM105,750

Now, take total and divide by number of months:
=> RM105,750 / 84
= RM1,258.95 per month

Sadly, there are some things we can't check. Like things that are wrapped in plastic. I don't think they will allow you to tear open the plastic wrapper to inspect the whole car lol... So most of the time we just have to go for warranty claims...

What I meant, is that they won't allow you to inspect a car thoroughly by tearing away all the plastic wrapping and then decide you don't want this unit.

This post has been edited by gregy: Mar 1 2012, 05:13 PM

Abudden? lol...

As a car gets older more and more wear and tear parts start coming la, that's for sure ady.

If it's part of Korean technology that their cars vibrate above 100km/h then my Forte must have been made with non-Korean technology since I don't have this problem.

And there are plenty of Jap and Conti cars having this issue. So those cars must have been made using Korean technology?

Pls make sense when you talk la

You sure you want sound? The Forte's alarm relies on its horn for alerting the owner. Takkan everytime you lock and unlock the car you want to hear "Pin Pin!" lol...

Aside from offset you also need to see the width of the rim and how wide a tyre you plan to put on the rim. All of these have a correlation to achieving a proper fitting.

IMO + or - 10mm on ET is not a problem if you keep the width of rim and tyre within 10mm from stock.

Well, speaking from the POV of someone who had driven the old City iDSI, having defined ratios on a CVT isn't entirely useless. It's good for tackling corners and bends where you want to induce engine braking. It's also good for times when you want to maintain good fuel economy on highways by putting the CVT into the highest ratio (somewhat like locking the ratio instead of letting it fluctuate). When virtually 'locked' in 7th, the drivetrain was less sensitive towards tiny changes in throttle input compared to leaving it in infinite mode.

But for outright acceleration and climbing hills, switching the stick to 'S' mode was the most effective.

Been using RON 95 on my 2.0 FL since Day 1. My car just celebrated her 1st BD. No problems with knocking. Nowadays it is hard to find a car without a knock sensor anyways...

The biggest problem with using a low RON fuel is the loss of power, especially during hot afternoons or if the engine is clogged and not in tip top shape. Knocking can be induced not only due to compression ratio but external factors like underhood temperatures, air density and engine efficiency among others. If you find that your car is sluggish during afternoon runs and appreciably more powerful at night, that means your ECU is holding back the engine in the afternoon to keep temps in check and to prevent knocking. Changing up to a higher RON fuel will lessen the impact.

Here's how the knock sensor works. It is supposed to measure and detect imminent pre=detonation before it happens, and sends the data to the on-board ECU. The ignition timing advance on modern cars with EFI is fully regulated by the ECU and operates on a closed loop system, relying on data from various sensors from the intake all the way to the exhaust.

Ignition advance is dynamically controlled based on throttle input, IOW as you step on the pedal, as the revs climb the ignition is advanced more and more to compensate for the faster cycle between intake and exhaust strokes. The CVVT system works in conjunction with ignition advance to deliver optimum fuel mixture on demand. Unless the knock sensor is damaged, there is no reason why RON 95 cannot be used in a high compression modern engine with fully controlled engine management (knock sensor and CVVT).

Having said that, knock sensors do have a pre-set tolerance, i.e., if you use a fuel that has a very low RON rating like 88 (example), then knocking could still happen as the engine and ECU were not designed to operate below a certain threshold.

But to sum it all up, I believe there is no harm in using RON95 in the Forte.

Cheers

I would go with the Stoplock as it provides a visual deterrent. Either lock can be taken care of by thieves. Better yet, get both...

Yeah, nothing wrong in taking your time. Don't let some rich fella look down on you You earned your own money you certainly get to decide how to spend it.

What a lame a$$ driver. What's the point in flooring the pedal when you don't have enough traction to keep the wheels from spinning like a mad dog? This is why it's usually a bad idea to have too much power in an FF. Needle flying up the speedo but car not going anywhere lol...

Bro are you sure? That looks like a Mazda 3 to me...

I must be sleepy lol...

Don't be stupid. And what a farked up smiley in a situation like this. If you don't know just say dunno la, aiyo.

How come you didn't pay a single sen for a whole year and the bank didn't chase you at all?

AFAIK CCRIS is a monthly updated system, with records that last a year. Every month, whatever liabilities under your name will be listed out, with your net position totalled up. For every item on the list, there will be a mark. "0" means you are on time. "1" means one month late, "2" means two months late, so on. I think the max is "3" or "4". Usually, if you have a lot of "3" and "4", you can forget about taking any loans.

However, once you've cleared the debt, the following month the item will show "0". However, since the list lasts for a year, the last 11 months showing "3" and "4" will still be shown. To be completely cleared, you need to maintain "0" or maximum "1" for up to a year before you can reapply for any loan.

As for CTOS, this involves cases where your creditors have engaged legal action to recover the amount from you. As long as you haven't cleared the debt, the case will be open. Once you clear it, your creditors are under obligation to report to CTOS to close the case. To make it faster, bring the documents to CTOS to prove that you have paid, so they can update your system.

Although it is true that with CTOS there will be a mark on your record, but if you maintain a clean CCRIS for a good amount of time and no longer any new cases of CCRIS and CTOS, banks will reconsider giving you new facilities. After all, they're all desperate for new sales but must operate within the confines of the law.

Some pics are already circulating around the net of mules being tested. It rides on the current Elantra chassis, so from the looks of the mule I am guessing that the design is already almost certain. You can google it for more info: 2013 Forte

No la, that is the cabin temperature sensor. An air tube sucks air from the cabin through there and back into the system. A temp sensor sits right behind the grille to record the temp as the air passes through.

How I know this is last time I dismantled the dashboard of my FD Civic and it had the exact same thing. Damn hard to put the tube back on lol...

The mic for the handsfree bluetooth system is mounted on the roof while the sound of the caller goes through the head unit.

Bro, lowered springs aren't supposed to be used with ori abs, you should be sourcing short throw abs because the shorter spring has compressed the ori abs and cut short its lifespan.

Bro, may I know how you did your calculation?