This one you have no control over the humidity, and the hygrometer is analog type, it's less accurate and requires calibration once in a while.

Here's something interesting to ponder, I have a digital hygrometer which is also not 100% similar reading with the AIPO drybox, but close enough, around+-5; I tried putting the hygrometer in my camera bag and in my cupboard, the humidity level is actually around 40~45, the digital hygrometer has record for max and min humidity.
Oh, if your room is air-conditioned, the humidity level in the room will drop when the air-cond is running.

What you need to worry more is the condensation, when you move from cold room to a warm room, the sudden change in temperature, if you operate the camera immediately, you will notice condensation at the front of your lens. So, for those staying in high rise building, you can experience this especially during a cold night and you try to take some landscape photo from your balcony, etc.

Your 105 Macro
Sharp and nice creamy bokeh

For the 50, I think the 50 1.8G is sharper; Seeing some of the sample photos around, it seems the 1.8G produce much better results. Tempting.....

85 also have new G version for 1.8.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 27 2012, 05:37 PM

To put it simple, all the lens is 35mm Focal Length.
So, doesn't matter the lens is micro 4/3, APS-C, APS-H, Full Frame, etc. Even Compact camera...
So, depending on the SENSOR SIZE, you need to multiply the crop factor to get the 35mm Format Focal Length.
If you get a micro 4/3, the lens you will notice 14-42mm, which if you multiple by the crop factor (e.g. X2) = 28-84mm

Depends on your usage and requirement.
It's more towards fun, capture the moment, family/party kind of camera; not so much on quality, however quality wise, if you compare with compact/point and shoot, then it's good, but then the new Canon G1X is way better with much bigger sensor.

What printer you use?

As I know, print shop print is CMYK, while our photo is RGB. The colour output will be different.
I'm still not very clear about this part and how to match the output.

Here's an example:
http://www.printingforless.com/color.html

This post has been edited by Andy214: Feb 3 2012, 11:38 AM

I think when Kai review this lens, he did expose it to some light rain.

Will be higher FPS if using lower MP?

Yup, without VC is much cheaper and the image quality is said to be slightly sharper.

As for your question on moving, it depends on you. For me, I need the f/2.8 constant aperture. So, 18-105 or 18-200 is useless to me, if it's variable aperture. If you shoot outdoor daytime a lot and don't really bother about the larger aperture, then the Tamron may be useless for you.

Doesn't seems to have IS on the 24-70mm version II.

But on the other hand, Tamron recently announce their 24-70mm equivalent/alternative which comes with VC.

Check if it's the lens problem or body problem.

BUT before that, what kind of back-focus are you facing? If you focusing on the subject, and the camera focus on the background, it can be a different issue...

Is this what you face?
https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/ans...etail/a_id/4585

"If the main subject in the focus brackets is relatively small, such as a person standing in front of a distant background. This may result in the background being in focus, while the subject is out of focus. This is more likely to occur when a wide angle lens is used."

From my experience, the actual "focus point" is bigger than the "box", so it always tends to focus on the background or something more contrast.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Feb 8 2012, 01:02 PM

Could be the internal battery problem, which helps to maintain the date/time. Should be no problem.

If your current battery condition ok and working fine?

Is both your battery original? Or the charger?

It's better to send it to the service centre; The Nikon Service Centre HQ is in PJ, PKNS building. If you need it fast, send it in early, and do let them know.

More like not suitable for situations when is hard to determine and you have little or no luxury to test and compensate your shooting (e.g. events). Also perhaps also not for those who shoot jpegs? (Can or how much can be fix with jpegs?)

http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/d800/features01.htm#a12

With the D800E, moiré and false color may be noticeable when there are repetitive and fine patterns on a subject such as kimono fabric. To avoid this, it is necessary to take measures, for example, changing the focusing point or shooting distance.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Feb 8 2012, 04:11 PM

There're mods done by 3rd party to remove the AA filter. It increase... wait more like, return, the sharpness.
Read above for the links on no AA filter, and see what happens at the samples with moire and false colour.
You can also read up on moire.

Here's another sample of moire:
http://nikonrumors.com/2012/02/04/why-remo...kon-d800e.aspx/

Oh Notty! LoL!

hehe, if only all the readers can look at it positively. It's an interesting story.

ifer already posted this few days ago.

Very true! Well said!

I think last time got a link to a blog mention about selling all the DSLR and gears.

On the side note:
http://www.lowyat.net/v2/index.php?option=...d=6204&Itemid=1

"While the prices have not been confirmed in Malaysia, early indications according to Nikon Malaysia peg the D800 and D800E to be priced around the RM10,000 - RM12,000 mark for the body only. This is a major blow to me as I saw the D800 as a RM9,000 camera, TOPS. Even if you convert the US retail price at current exchange rates, you'll get RM9,016 for the D800 and RM9,918 for the D800E. Why the difference? Apparently, Nikon Malaysia isn't following the US dollar, but the Japanese Yen. Great. Bear in mind this is not set in stone and may change ahead of the D800's official launch next month and D800E's in April. Let's, for our wallets sake, hope so."

I think he got from Canon instead

For normal use, SB600/700 is good enough. If can, try to go for SB700.

As with others, I would strongly suggest to go for Nikon Speedlight. Don't skim on the money, you'll be using it for very long time anytime, think long term. It's not something that got short lifespan, and it's a quality product. Although many people may think Flash is very expensive, but actually Flash is a very powerful tool and if you read on what it can do and so on, it's NOT just a flash light.... It's so much more; when you get it, read through the manual and see what it do and what's it's capable of doing. I know people who willing to pay thousands for a branded bag and have no complain, but complain a speedlight is expensive and question the value of it. Amazing.

Like Isepunye said, spend once better than keep on spending. Later you buy a less satisfying product, you wanna upgrade, it's more wasting. Don't settle on just because it's slightly cheaper and it's also 3rd party. Maybe you should try the difference yourself.

As mentioned, the flash is going to last you for very long time, long term. So, why not save up a little more to get a Nikon's Speedlight instead of 3rd party? The price difference isn't really a lot, it may seem a lot because the price is lower, but it's nothing compared to lenses that cost thousands.

Most reviews seems to favor the 35mm f/1.8G DX:

Here's a detailed review with samples, they test BOTH controlled environment and real life situation, it's pretty obvious:
http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Nikon_Ni..._compared.shtml

And also this:


This post has been edited by Andy214: Feb 14 2012, 09:24 AM