Apr 6 2012, 02:14 PM
QUOTE(jtdc @ Apr 4 2012, 02:57 PM)
10W-30 vs 10W-40...
to make things easier for non technical.
the first digit is the thinness of the oil on cold start. the more thin, the more free the engine parts moves, less resistance, more kick, in less fuel consumption. hence the 5W and 0W full synthetics are expensive.
as the oil heats up, it thickens, hence the 2nd digit. oil is supposed to protect the engine parts from friction and wear due to constant movement. hence higher digits are preferred, as the value is like the "coats of protection" given for the "thickness". hence the 40W are good and 50W better, moreso the synthetics.
the synthetics keeps these values (properties) for longer compared to mineral oils, hence the longer oil change intervals.
now, you know why 0W-50 is expensive. and 20W-50 mineral oil is cheap. probably also explains why there is no mineral oil lower than 20W, as thinner oils are specially synthesized in labs.
really? no matter what we do car would depreciate. so when u bought a used one cheap, then you escaped some of the depreciation, but not totally since eventually it continues to depreciate even if u don't use it.
That is not quiet correct actually. 10W...notice the 'W'?? It's winter. It means the thiness of the oil when cold start in WINTER. Mostly under 0C celcius. Mareisha Genting Highland also > 10C. So it's not relevant to us. It's the 2nd digit you should look at. Buying 0W oil here don't serve any purpose except maybe pay more money. to make things easier for non technical.
the first digit is the thinness of the oil on cold start. the more thin, the more free the engine parts moves, less resistance, more kick, in less fuel consumption. hence the 5W and 0W full synthetics are expensive.
as the oil heats up, it thickens, hence the 2nd digit. oil is supposed to protect the engine parts from friction and wear due to constant movement. hence higher digits are preferred, as the value is like the "coats of protection" given for the "thickness". hence the 40W are good and 50W better, moreso the synthetics.
the synthetics keeps these values (properties) for longer compared to mineral oils, hence the longer oil change intervals.
now, you know why 0W-50 is expensive. and 20W-50 mineral oil is cheap. probably also explains why there is no mineral oil lower than 20W, as thinner oils are specially synthesized in labs.
really? no matter what we do car would depreciate. so when u bought a used one cheap, then you escaped some of the depreciation, but not totally since eventually it continues to depreciate even if u don't use it.
Quote
It's blardy RM550! Then the sifu introduced me another similar "looked" muffler, that was an imitation aftermarket muffler, that will cost around RM300+. In the end... I didn't take both. Choose something else and ask them to weld it in 
As we did the rear muffler, the midbox just dropped off by itself 
Since already given something special to the rear, I've got no enough monay for the mid liao, so I ask the sifu cincai hook some rubbish midbox and call it a day.
Any reputable, price quire reasonable shop I can go? 
My budget is quite limited, but also can't let the car continue leak oil like pissing pants now 
..But i suspect even the original Renault nut also OEM in China...
Am I kena con or what? 
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