can spray tdc sensor with wd40 without open the sensor?

sifus,

i have a supernoob question. when tyre changed, does the tyre pressure need to change also? savvy got label near rear door saying the recommended pressure is 220 kPa for front and 200 kPa for rear.

Previously, i'm using the stock NCT5 so i follow the label. Now i changed to conti CC5, should i use the same tyre pressure (220/200) ?

well, thats what i did.. spray the sensor tip point with wd40.. but clean it properly is better..


erk.. if my memory serve me well, the standard pressure is 210/190 right?

yours is ok but if the tyre is wider, maybe need extra pressure.. do ask your tyre shop bout this..

can use same no problem. im doing 220/200 always. haha

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Added on March 10, 2012, 10:53 pmchanged GAB Absorber from KENTK3 feels good but slightly more bumpy as expected. Old SLIGHTLY leaking absorber anyone wants?

This post has been edited by kidmad: Mar 10 2012, 10:53 PM

Very important thing to note when DIY clean the TB (using any type of "cleaner"). After cleaning, the next 1-3 days you will notice that your RPM behaves a bit weird. It'll sometimes go up and stay up or even go higher. Press gas pedal, it will go up and then down. Same thing repeats just about everytime you stop.

This is NORMAL. Why? Because you didn't lube the butterfly valve after cleaning. So, to avoid, after cleaning, put some ENGINE OIL on the valve's sides and a little bit (ONLY A LITTLE) on the inside surface surrounding it. It'll keep your TB happy and you less nervous.


Err.. yeah, that's what I meant. Besides, proton OEM has no autolock. Only auto-arm.


Nope. Over a year now, still running fine. Plugs are healthy as ever. Even got some FC savings



Go with 220 front, 210 rear. Tire size makes no difference. 15" also same pressure. Though mine runs 230 front, 220 rear.. hehehe



Final note, about the TDC. NO NEED to change to new one. Makes no difference. If the current one works, clean and use it. If you need to clean often, it's your flywheel & clutch. NOT the sensor. Changing gives you the same thing after a while. If really lazy to clean, take car ask mech to take down gearbox and clean EVERYTHING visible. That'll give you about 1-2 years zero cleaning time depending on your driving style. Oh yeah, soldering doesn't do diddly squat either. It's just a placebo.

haishh another problems coming, my steering wheel make scratching sound when i make rotating, sound like wire snapped or something and my horn also no sound. anyone facing the same problems before?

Hurm, maybe it;s really the car rubber problem. Mr Hoe actually told me to get my car to him once i have 3 hours time for him. The rubber near the engine bay he pull up and show me there is really hole. He said that could be the cause for the water sipping into the engine bay. Anyway i change my windscreen already the guy help me glue back the rubber as well. haha consider problem solve kua.

Yep, I was just elaborating further coz jdtc dah confucius

how much the damage?

RM650 only. If you get SACHS or Pro-Ride not inclusive of installation already RM400 might as well get GAB right? Well i might be wrong though

Going for tinted replacement this saturday from Canny then the only thing left is.... Pimping the ride with new spray and replacing my bumper and bodykits

haha spending quite a lot for this ride.. maybe i should reconsider

Anyone tried to use the shell hx-5 or the hx-5e engine oil? Care to give some review

planning to sell off my savvy...if dec 06 amt, how much is the market price?

Haha... this is the power of love for the car

stop! better don't! no where close to Eneos Eco Touring. I recently tested Liqui Moly 10w-30 and the result is so damn impressive. My next oil change for savvy would be the same oil.

hurm... P321A out liao my colleague keep asking me to get one la. haha im getting influence with the bugger who drive Jetta. He say the car only difference with his Jetta is the DSG technology. I'm going to proton showroom for a test ride once they have the car. haha

Might have to ditch my savvy for it

owh okay. btw how much is the liqui moly? what oil filter u use? or any kind also same?

oil filter any cheapo would do la. The LM oil i bought is RM108 bought from Thungergod_cid? i think lol.

*Btw remember to change your petrol filter guys. Especially those car few years old ady. RM30 bucks only.

3.MOS2 leichtlauf 4100 10W30 (Semi Synthetic) 4L rm108

from here : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1764127&hl=liqui ?

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Added on March 15, 2012, 8:38 pmis that the one u mentioned?

This post has been edited by fixgd: Mar 15 2012, 08:38 PM

yeah babeh! pour it in! btw, it's black in color unlike other oils. haha

haha not yet use also black color edi? usually how long u use a semi? 7k? the oil filter also 1 oil filter per oil change? some suggest 2

oil filter usually change 5k but who so free go at change every 5k wor. just use until 7k then change together with oil. Btw semi i usually go for 7k la. previously i use eneos use until 8k car still smooth so did not change. next round im planning to use ceretec + 10w-30 from Liqui Moly. Current using revo + 5w-30 Eneos. It's still better compared to all the other engine oil i use previously.
Honda 5w-30
perodua ori 5w-30 (worst oil)
Elf 10w-40
Shell 10w-40
Pennzoil 10w-40
Caltex Havoline 10w-40

not bad 1 year change 6 times engine oil. to be exact 15 months. haha