My DB has 3 rows of MCB with 10a, 20a and 32a and main fuse 60A single phase never have problem.

2 x 1hp aircond, 1 x 2hp aircond, 1 x 2.5hp aircond
electric cooker max 3000 watt or 13amp.
2 refrigerators
1 rice cooker, 1 big electric oven, 1 small electric oven, 1 microwave oven, 1 cooler making ice cool water max 1000watt, no water heater (using solar), blender, potable electric cooker for steamboat, etc you name it I almost got it
more than 100 18watt down lights, 10 fans, many ceiling lights, hanging light, lights on fancy fan, heater for piano, water pump for pond runing 24hrs
TV, dvd, astro, home theather audio, notebook x 2, tv for ps2 and many more.

Most have to be on when have party, bbq + steamboat, open house, especially all the down light, ceiling fans, all the aircond, audio visual. video game to keep kids occupaid, cooking food, etc. nothing happened.

I don't know about the cable rating. The house wiring was done by qualified electricians during renovation. They used two set of cables colored with red, black and green. one set is thick with double insulation and has six small copper wires in it for power point, a/c. The other set is thinner single insulation and have 3 core copper wires for lights. The light points are pull to 10amp. Power points, a/c to 20amp and 32amp.

According to the electricians, the power were split and shared and unlikely we would have power on all of them at one time. For example 2 power points upstairs and one in kitchen and one in hall, so I cannot be using the 2 power points upstair and using another in the hall and same time the kitchen that particular one is in used. Even with 2/3 persons not all the 4 could be used or used up to its maximum 13amp x 4. I could be using hair dryer upstair, someone else using another charging handphone, wife use it to boil water in kitchen and the hall tv is on. Somehow very unlikely all using high power at the same time like this example. A/C are connected to 32A and could be shared with downstairs power points. Ligtht points are low powered are connected to the 10amp points. The 20amp are connected to fewer power points or one mcb to one aircond point. As long as the total usage of the connected points not excedding the MCB rating and if exceeded it trips. And so long as the total usage at any one time not exceeding 60amp which is 60 x 240 = 14,400 or 14.4KW for the whole house. When I have party I switch on all the down lights and some wall lights. I also tested all MCB tripping. it tripped mean all ok. So, to me is a normal house need no 3 phase unless you are supplied with less than 60amp or 63amp. Some apartment were supplied with 40amp. Apartments are usually smaller unit you need no so much power and cannot accommodate too many people.

3 phase maybe for big house, bangalore with many house members and lots of quarrels and envy... hahahah... and when the old man die, explode, not the electric power exploded, the people in it

This post has been edited by stevie8: Jan 13 2012, 11:07 PM

Thanks but errr...the current calculation is so confusing... especially the PF... what's that??? Can give one example?

I have my electric hob (one ceramic and one induction cookers) supplied by a 3 or 4 strands copper conductor to its switch. The max of combine ceramic and induction is 2400watts. will the cable get hot and get burned? The hob fella says a 13amp point is ok. but the live cable has only 3 or 4 strands of copper conductor to it. Further more it is linked to one of my refrigerator to one 32amp mcb. I dont know how exactly the circuit is routed to the mcb from the hob power point and the freezer power point if it is two seperate circuits or one circuit. when I trip the mcb both the hob and freezer go off.

Thanks bro PKY. got to touch and feel the socket, plug and MCB. I should on the cookers to the max and same time make sure the freezer is running as it is auto on/off. To do this I think is to open the freezer doors and let the cold air out and fill it with some warm water so that the freezer automatically switches itself on to cool the water and make ice.

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Added on January 14, 2012, 3:05 pmThe brand is Viper china made. 15000 liters per hour or 15ton per hour flow rate, consuming 220watt tested with watt meter. Bought at RM450. Do not underestimate the reliability of china made product. Some are real good for money. Do you know that the american are buying China TV, DVD, 2 to 3 times cheaper than other branded products and in a way lower the cost of living and lifting the standard of living for the american. With same money can buy more.

Before that I had Tsurumi pump Jap technology bought at RM700 lasted me only a year and "kong". Sent it to repair under warranty and another year later broken again. To repair it cost me RM400!!! Then I was introduced this Viper for RM450 and for more than 3 yrs already it is still running quietly 24/7. the pump is submersible. just make sure it does not run dry. By the way Viper looks like copy cat of Tsurumi yet last. We koi/pond hobbyists no longer use Italian pump anymore. Power consumption is killing 5 to 10 times high for same output. German pump are good too but price wise cant match china made. You can buy 2 to 3 for 1. The logic is if broken buy another and will outlast 1 german.

Tsurumi data: 12 tan/hr, 250watt. See the chinese made it higher output and yet consume less power. It is not just cheap labour but if they want to make it last it will. the data were provided by koi forumers with live test with watt meter. the watt meter also china mali.

If you want to play water + electricity we advise to add a separate RCCB with the lowest amp rating before the pond so that we dont kill the beloved prized fish and ourselves and kids like to play with pond water when you are not around. Believe me some will jump into the pond when no adults are around that is the most dangerous time as no one can help them when they get into troble.

This post has been edited by stevie8: Jan 14 2012, 03:08 PM

Pudu, Jalan pasar. One fish shop next to a bakuteh shop.

see pix/map attached.