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 <WTA> Do I need to upgrade to 3 Phase ?

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pky
post Jan 13 2012, 08:22 PM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Jan 13 2012, 03:32 PM)
My DB has 3 rows of MCB with 10a, 20a and 32a and main fuse 60A single phase never have problem.

2 x 1hp aircond, 1 x 2hp aircond, 1 x 2.5hp aircond
electric cooker max 3000 watt or 13amp.
2 refrigerators
1 rice cooker, 1 big electric oven, 1 small electric oven, 1 microwave oven, 1 cooler making ice cool water max 1000watt, no water heater (using solar), blender, potable electric cooker for steamboat, etc you name it I almost got it
more than 100 18watt down lights, 10 fans, many ceiling lights, hanging light, lights on fancy fan, heater for piano, water pump for pond runing 24hrs
TV, dvd, astro, home theather audio, notebook x 2, tv for ps2 and many more.

Most have to be on when have party, bbq + steamboat, open house, especially all the down light, ceiling fans, all the aircond, audio  visual. video game to keep kids occupaid, cooking food, etc. nothing happened.
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I'm not sure about it, just hope that your MCB is not faulty and can't trip during overload.

Just a side note, MCB, should be rated below the carrying amp of the cable. Seen few house having 60amp MCB on a 10mmsq cable circuit.
pky
post Jan 14 2012, 12:16 AM

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QUOTE(stevie8 @ Jan 13 2012, 10:56 PM)
I don't know about the cable rating. The house wiring was done by qualified electricians during renovation. They used two set of cables colored with red, black and green. one set is thick with double insulation and has six small copper wires in it for power point, a/c. The other set is thinner single insulation and have 3 core copper wires for lights. The light points are pull to 10amp. Power points, a/c to 20amp and 32amp.

According to the electricians, the power were split and shared and unlikely we would have power on all of them at one time. For example 2 power points upstairs and one in kitchen and one in hall, so I cannot be using the 2 power points upstair and using another in the hall and same time the kitchen that particular one is in used. Even with 2/3 persons not all the 4 could be used or used up to its maximum 13amp x 4. I could be using hair dryer upstair, someone else using another charging handphone, wife use it to boil water in kitchen and the hall tv is on. Somehow very unlikely all using high power at the same time like this example. A/C are connected to 32A and could be shared with downstairs power points. Ligtht points are low powered are connected to the 10amp points. The 20amp are connected to fewer power points or one mcb to one aircond point. As long as the total usage of the connected points not excedding the MCB rating and if exceeded it trips.  And so long as the total usage at any one time not exceeding 60amp which is 60 x 240 = 14,400 or 14.4KW for the whole house. When I have party I switch on all the down lights and some wall lights. I also tested all MCB tripping. it tripped mean all ok. So, to me is a normal house need no 3 phase unless you are supplied with less than 60amp or 63amp. Some apartment were supplied with 40amp. Apartments are usually smaller unit you need no so much power and cannot accommodate too many people.

3 phase maybe for big house, bangalore with many house members and lots of quarrels and envy... hahahah... and when the old man die, explode, not the electric power exploded, the people in it cool2.gif
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Am more concern on the incomming cable from TNB to cut-off fuse, kwh meter to your DB.

Just for info on typical wiring works practice in Malaysia.
Double insulation mostly used if the cable is not intended to be run in conduit or trunking. Single insulation cable, by law, should be run in conduit/trunking.

Typical practice, lighting point use 1.5mmsq cable, power point use 2.5mmsq., 30amp MCB, i prefer 4mmsq or 2.5mmsq in ring circuit. These mention cables should have 7 strands of copper conductor. 3 strands, is a 1.0mmsq or 1.25mmsq which, by right, used for extra low voltage application not for lighting. Sad to say, i do found 1.0mmsq cable mixed with 1.5mmsq cable install for my house lighting point by the developer's contractor.

AC current calculation should be Iac=P/(V*PF) , where, Iac= AC current(amps), P=power(W), V=voltage=230(volt), PF=Power Factor=0.85

The device with the test button is the RCCB (ELCB). Push test button monthly to ensure the spring mechanism works. There's other test for its functionality.


pky
post Jan 14 2012, 10:37 AM

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It will be a long story if discuss on PF, what you need to know about PF is we assume it as 0.85 since this is the minimum value before TNB start issue penalty for power factor correction(only applicable to industrial area)

I=P/V is for calculating DC current.
AC current have to consider the power factor and for three phase load, divide another root 3 to have equivalent single phase voltage.

Bro stevie8, since you have a qualified electrician work for you, i suppose it won't be much of a problem since he will be fully responsible for the elecrical installation should any problem arises.

If you still feel uncomfortable, leave out all the calculation, go feel the socket/plug/MCB when the appliances is turn on. If it feel hot, chances are they are operating above rated value. Do take pre-caution not to touch any LIVE part.

Another conservative advice, allow 30% spare from the rated current to cater for In-Rush current, voltage drop, conductor deterioation, operation above operating temperature, etc.

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