wow...busy thread ;-)

hey...TA04 is still a good car tho TA05 is the newer sibling. Don't know much about drifting but i reckon you'd need stiffer suspension to "loose" traction. Don't know what you have under the hood but for a start, TRF dampers would be a great addition if you don't have one yet.

check out 3 r/c shops at amcorp mall; all specialise in heli/plane. There are a few other r/c shops around klang valley..operating somewhat in obscurity excepts for the diehard fans

on-road tracks around shah alam would be @ klang, subang jaya and glenmarie (it has on-road, off-road and drift tracks)

on-road tracks around bangi? ... i can't recall any but i know some dudes are playing at putrajaya make-shift track. Titiwangsa is also nice.

if you're only planning of bashing/playing around, then your NTC3 would suffice. And a lot of nitro drivers would be @ titiwangsa. Drop by during weekends and have a chat with them. Most are friendly.

as for nitro vs electric...i guess you haven't seen the new stuffs in electric camps; introduction of brushless motors, lipo batteries and a few others really bring electric-powered cars up to speed..usually much more than most of us could possibly handle.

there are pretty active threads about malaysian r/c in RCTech Malaysia chatting pretty much about everything r/c.

if you need anymore info about r/c...post here or pm me

r/c drift is the in-thing in japan...following the 1:1 scale. Malaysia has a fair share of r/c drifters, mostly playing @ subang jaya and glenmarie tracks. Not sure about other places in malaysia.

Nitro? plenty @ rctech:malaysia; some are even brand specific

emm...i noticed xtreme blades, tail section and landing skid? got xtreme motors, heatsink and someothers to boot along

when i had mine flying...i had boomtown ultraflex skid. That thing is indestructible

This post has been edited by K-o-E: Jul 29 2008, 09:24 AM

SS19 track

we are all beginners/newbies/noobs at one point or later in this hobby

if you are worried or having any reservation/shy and what-nots...just drop by...have a chat with those drivers or with the track operator (Rudy is a very approachable dude). Enquire about track fee, track rules particularly about frequency. Last thing anyone wants is a frequency clash.

i think toykar is still bringing in kyosho parts. Not sure about parts for ultima tho. You can check with RcChamp in japan too...1 of my fav online retailer

it's alcohol mixed with lubricant; and comes with variety of alcohol-to-lubricant mixtures

what is the rig? is it a CEN? i got a mt too...1st gen savage

what's your problems? search the net...there are plenty of sites for monster trucks

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Added on October 14, 2008, 3:46 pmi hate to say...but everything at toycity costs da bomb! get nitros from real r/c shops...there are plenty in klang valley

This post has been edited by K-o-E: Oct 14 2008, 03:46 PM

depending on the scale; 1/10th consumes lesser than 1/8th. 1 tank of about 100ml or so will give you say 10-15 mins of fun bashing around unless you are going WOT all the times. 1 gallon (~3.8L) of branded nitro worths more than myr100.

poorman's weekend practice is usually limited to tire set rather than nitro supply.

it's highly advisable to have fail-safe unit on nitros; small and rather inexpensive device to have

try looking here ==> http://www.venom-group.com/storeitems.asp?...&cc=ELECTRONICS

and google for more

(i'm not pushing for venom as there are others on the market as well)

the better ones are tamiyas but be prepared to shed off few thousands for the unit, the electronics and the controller. There is tamiya distributor @ 1utama. If not mistaken...check out Tamiya Underground

cheaper still are the Tokyo Marui tanks but "cheaper" is very subjective. I don't know who imports them in but there are a number of online japanese hobbyshops that sell/export out.

cheaper still would be Hen Long (sp?) tanks...i think there are sold here. Both tokyo Marui and Hen Long could fire pellets...so be careful where you're shooting at.

you can either look @ local hobbyshops;

Tamiya Underground

Mizan Enterprise

LKH modelsports

RC Pitstop

RC Planet

HPC

Hobby Haven

i can't recall every shop....so my apology to their owners Do check out their threads in RCTech for contact no/address.

Alternatively, you can try online specialised bearing shop like Boca Bearings, AcerRacing, RC4Less and few others.

Alternatively...get a sample..and drop by any auto spare parts shop...show them the thing...don't bother telling where it comes from or goes to..as that would confuse the chinesemen look for SKF, NSK etc bearing sellers.

1. lift up your car and give those tires a spin...look for side that wobble. If none...the problem might stem off from your steering linkage/servo

2. check out drive and suspension assemblies for loose screws

3. if all "look" good...check out your c-hub....might have a missing kingpin

4. if those are okay...start disassembling the c-hub/dogbone assembly...check if your dogbone/shaft is bent

5. while you are at it...check if the wheel bearings are shot/dead or okay? if they do not sit in properly...or if the c-hub itself is shot

6. run a check on your servo/steering linkages..their dimensions, bend/straight etc

btw, what car is this?

MT...i'd presume a hpi savage? have 1 too...but the 1st gen. My only notable upgrade was a cam-style servo saver. Hit few things very hard...but never damage my servo horn. One hit was so hard..the engine mounting broke

scratches are okay..some even go with bent or missing heatsink fins. Check your temp often then. Do you have a temp gun or know the crude way of checking it?

no temp gun? check out this crude method don't laugh just yet...it works. If ya hesitate...drip few drops of drinking water on the heatsink and see if they sizzle immediately or not.

i've given up pullstarting long time ago...after lotsa blisters! rotostart is the way to go, just find a rotostart backplate that matches your engine