I tot someone's baby shit in a pamper..

As long as the lube is still watery and not sticky, should be ok from anti-sludge aspect only. If its not that watery anymore, that means for sure some sludge might already form inside. That means the lube addictives already way gone. Lecture coming....

My Idemitsu FS Lube of 2-3K also colour like that liao, no need wait till 9K. Do note earlier that my mechanic has open up engine b4 and mention engine super clean even after near 6 years. So it does clean out the engine and suspend the contaminant in the lube effectively. So lube dirty at 1K mileage does not means its not good, a good lube (not fake, fake at that color or not definitely NOT good), will clean out anything as soon as possible.

Thats why if lube still clear gold after 3-4K, it becomes a major suspect, either the engine is very clean or its cleaning addictives is not doing very well. Do note that after 9K mileage, lube not sticky does not means full lube addictives still there. Addictive for suspension capabilities that prevent sludge from forming is not that same as the addictives for anti-wear, VI (allow viscosity changes), etc.

I would say lubes that are specifically mentioned to be long life like the one Zen is going to use (Amsoil - True POA Synthetic) should be use above 5K mileage in our extreme driving conditions (yes, our weather, traffic, road conditions qualified as the worst condition with earlier service interval in any car manufacturing schedule). Amsoil true synthetic NATURALLY suspend contaminant better and its VI is also naturally there without need of VI addictives (so no or little loss of VI change, coz no need addictives for that).

Some higher range cars has much better filteration, bigger lube tanks, specifically tested compatible lube, etc that combined to extend usage of lube. Definitely not on our budget japanese cars and locally made wan...

Still same philosophy, if you can't afford to change lube at 5K-7K (at most) mileage, then don't use FS, goes back to either mineral or semi, it does the jobs better than a 10K mileage FS usage. Note all my Cities with super clean engines uses mineral (honda idemitsu) up till 60K, super clean when change at 5K interval without fail..although I have to say the engine noise and vibration started to increase significantly after that...prob due to age.

So FS fixed that problem with its better hydrocracked mineral lubrication. I'm changing those at 5-6K at most. Coz my wife and parent usage, almost 6 months only hit 5K, so can afford FS for that. If every 2-3 months change like my Persona, I take kapchai better...oh wait...I don't know how to ride kapchai....astrologist say I sure 100% die if i ride one..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 23 2011, 10:16 AM

I don't mind working. Next week work only 3 days from Tuesday to Thursday. Expect smooth traffic. Reserved my leaves for those days AFTER holiday. Can avoid super duper heavy traffic. Everybody stuck in traffics and hectic schedules while I'm sipping cold drinks in air-condition bedroom with a full hard disk load of 5th grade jap show...

Delivered liao. Abt 2 weeks ago. Now confinement. So no point taking leave, coz cannot watch 5th grade at the room.

Those are promo with a time frame. I got those. I tot I going to service outside at 15K (just did my 10K), suddenly they say if I use semi, have to go back for 15K service. The 10->20K schedule is for FS. Tak boleh tipu kah...unfortunately they record what we use on 10K in their system. And the only FS Cose has is 50 weighted 1000 series.

I only going to switch to different lube at 25K service. Probably Idemitsu semi 10W40 or Havoline semi. Still uncomfortable servicing at a center where we can't see what they're doing. Ie. if i gonna use Iridium plug, would they take the plug, plug in the standard plug, and keep it for themselves, would they just leave the existing plug in, and keep it for themselves?

If we use the best lube, would they pour in standard lube and keep the expensive lube we bring over for themselves. As it happens, even Honda SC last time forgot to change new air filter (the original expensive wan), and listed in bill, change new one liao. Luckily I stand there and watch and never see them changing a new one, just clean blow them and put it back.

You went to a party, lots of babes but 1 woman do stand out the most coz among all the model-like babes, she's the only that look like pig...so do you want the rare pig or anyone of the the babes. I've chosen the babe, so I got myself silver. A colour made available to everyone and yet nobody wants it...its going to be rare, so do you want a color nobody likes?

Although PE white is the rarest for now coz it comes out late, white is now one of the most common colors on the road. At least in Klang Valley. From Empire Gallery in Subang on the gym, I sort of counted white vehicles that pass thru, out of 10, around 4 are white. While it looks good, sien liao, nothing special anymore. 2-3 years ago, its rare and looks classy, now it just look normal coz all uncle and auntie also buy white now.

Its just like a gorgeous babe at its prime. While young and got make up, killer looks. But a few days in rain, its like a beauty taking out the make up and gives you a heart attack at night. Once pass its prime (a few years), the color will fade and look slightly yellowish....so IMO, white car unless maintain well (ie, glare polishing at all times, wash), else not a color that will last. Silver and bronze are the only color that last a long time and with slight maintenance, looks good even pass its prime. Only a bit boring coz its been the most popular color for ages until white trumph it....but white would not last and not truly suitable in our humid, dusty and rainy environment in comparison with those everlasting easy maintenance colors.

Besides metalic colors always reflect heat better than solid colors.

Does that means you never pump air for 12K mileage coz SC normally don't check your tyre pressure, Proton SC that is.

Use VCCY tyre pressure as guide, I did the same as well. Do note this pressure range is when you started driving and go short distance 2-5km to pump station straight. The hot air will add abt 10kpi to it. So if original is 210, it will be 220. Hitting to 235kpi will ensure abt 220 cold front pressure. If after longer distance drive, the pressure will increase by 20 to 40 kpi, so much harder to estimate, normally I just put 250 to 260 if pump after long drive. It should go down to 220 to 230 at cold.

If you check your tyre at cold pressure and its 220 or 230kpi, it should last AT LEAST 2 weeks, so no need to keep checking. Just check every forthnight. I usually keep my cold pressure at 220kpi to 230kpi front and 210 to 220 rear pressure. Balance drive.

I forgot liao, need to take out existing rubber to install this or not? Coz I damn fed up with by rear right door rubber, always quek quek when going thru bump. Rubber softener help but for abt 1K b4 it appears again.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 26 2011, 10:23 AM

Call very early in the morning or call late in the evening like 4-5pm. In between, extremely hard to get. The last time I call, 2 days of constant calling morning to nite and got 1 lucky strike in the evening or is it morning of 2nd day. The last record I have is almost 3 days of constant calling. I ALWAYS fear the approaching service time....spend more time calling combined than the service time.

If car has no layered protection (glass layer, wax layer, etc), any swirl or minor scratch hit straight into the paint. Any compound that lighten or remove such scratches actually works by remove a tiny layer of paint off the affected area. So the more you use, the thinner your original paint gets.

Advantage of layered protection is when a minor scratch or swirl damage the car paint, it hit the upper layer protection first (compound, etc). After that only penetrate the car paint. So when removing such damages, it remove the layered protection and if hit paint, then remove very very tiny bits of the paint if any at all (very minor scratches ala swirl damage). Wax works as such layered protection but like almost all non-long term protection, it will be remove thru car wash, weather, etc after a very short period, ie. 2-5 washes. After that, no layered protection.

Thats where those long term glass compound comes in, it wears off very very slowly, from 1-5 years (depending on compound use). It generally stays bonded and don't wash away easily (due to hard bonding with paint) during rain nor car wash.

Which is why I always recommend those glass compound polishing that does 1-5 years protection. Every normal car wash, the car will looks just like coming out from polishing, even after 6 months. The protection stays at all time. Wonders if those permanon and opti seals does the same for long term or not. You can always say, reapply lor....but if you really need to reapply means the protection already thinned enuf for any swirl to go thru, that means damage first, the protect. Unless like lube changing at 5K, you always apply BEFORE the protection even begin to thin.

Mm...my City reaching 6 months next month and used only slightly over 3K mileage. Will have to change lube again. Luckily that 5W30 Idemitsu FS still available at RM140 abt RM155 for a change. But feel a bit wasted, low mileage for a FS use.

But what to do, it does give noticeable less vibration and silent engine improvement. At 6 years old, I cannot afford to replace with another new City, so have to keep engine at tip-top condition. Car still looks polished (glare) and new with new car smell, cannot afford new car, so keep car smell, looks and performance like new car.

Going broke. Going to fork out another RM420 for 3 bottles of Idemitsu FS for both my City at home. I guess I will stick with semi for Persona for a long long time...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 28 2011, 02:21 PM

http://www.sierraglow.com/product/glassglow.html

Supposedly 5 years warranty. Very attractive info.

Personally I'm on Magic Glare. Abt 1.5 to 2 years warranty. May not be as lasting as Sierra but I've been on it for 6 years with abt 3-4 re-applications.

"think campro is better at high speed/long distance than in jam"...

Errr....you mean you only find out abt that now

PE torque comes in at quite high RPM compare general City-based car. It's this lack of low end torque that kill the FC during city drive. Mid-end torque is quite improve with introduction of IAFM the eliminate the mid-torque dip and IMO increase the mid-end torque and slightly only low end.

I've done a rough calculation comparing it with the top of the FC range 1.5 liter City VTEC. For every full tank for both car at same tank fills (same amt of petrol), City can go abt 100km more in City drive due to its excellent low-mid end torque along with CVT acceleration.

That means now, when I drive PE vs my old City, I'm losing abt 400 to 500km worth of petrol each month. Thats 1 extra full tank of petrol difference for each month. However adding up the cost of additional RM 30K (not including any interest for car loan) price difference between PE and City, it would take at the least 15 years to 30 years to make up the price difference. So overall its still worth it.

However what surprises me when I buy PE is all the time I tot the benefit of PE is cheaper maintenance. How very wrong I am tho...coz in the end, the maintenance cost is actually even higher than City surprisingly. City very few problem, less failure AND importantly the darn Proton SC charge even worst than Honda SC.

Unfair comparison but I do consider new City before finally decided on PE to save over RM35K. Have to justify the lousy QC vs the excellent (only 90% but good enuf) production of Honda.

I always goes to COSE from the beginning since nobody can recommend a good one in Klang. Main reason for CoSE is becoz for every service I need to do warranty repair. Damn sien, have to wait half a day every time I do standard service coz need warranty repair EVERY SINGLE TIME.

My wife "chong kong" my City VTEC when her wira kong out. So there goes my meticulously preserved shiny looking City with full bk, 4-point UR bar and stock cross rear bar and some very light mod. Thats when I bought PE to replace wira for her but she sort of fall in love with the excellent low-mid torque city with its very silent engine and super smooth cvt.

Now I'm stuck with PE but when higher speed (above 110km/h) PE prove to be a better ride along with its stability. However at lower speed drive, CITY torque trump it or should I say stumped PE and squeeze it bad. Been driving City these last 2 days and the low end torque give supreme confident in accelerating and cutting vehicles during slow traffic. PE lack that acceleration torque at low speed. Thus for city drive, it will be a bit lacking IF you have own more powerful low end torque car.

I'm speaking of H-Line auto not manual. Coz auto has only abt 70+usable HP vs appx 90+ for VTEC. However if compared with auto 1.3 turtle auto, PE can overturn them at anytime. 1.5 is another story, still can overturn them but at straight speed, PE will get trump on torque and speed.

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Added on December 30, 2011, 7:23 pmYesterday I got 3 cans of 5W30 Idemitsu FS from ICHIH and mentioned recently someone with PE (Dorin, is it) should have just bought W40 FS from him....he think and think, then remember...oh..the one with missing plate numbers.... ....Yeah...thats him, the one with missing plate numbers dropped from car wash..

Actually I lost my PE car number too in a car wash using those jet spray. Drove home, realise it, cannot find back, so jump straight to my usual accs shop and he replace it free for me (known customer mah).



This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 30 2011, 07:23 PM

No, Myvi is really not suitable for family car coz like you say...no boot. I already got a city and civic at home.

Why did I get PE if Myvi is really that good at City drive. Coz I need all my car to double as family car for any occasion.

For a family car, Myvi without real boot is truly a handicap when you want to travel anywhere with baggage. Secondly driving at highspeed and cornering, it can turn turtle while PE is real heavy and weight down car for cornering. PE handling is truly superb, City and no need to say...the Myvi cannot even come close to it.

Thirdly, with a short front AND virtually NO BUTT, any banging from front or rear is gonna to hit your family directly without boot to absorb the impact. My wife work in Port Klang with lots of lorry. Am I gonna risk her driving Myvi without a butt. With lorry impact, even PE also gone but as we all know, an added safety feature is better than no safety feature. No BUTT for me is a very important safety feature as well to absorb impact when my family is seating behind. So I WILL NEVER BUY A CAR WITH NO BUTT.

Of course, now that I kena downgraded to driving PE (for handling its an excellent upgrade tho), I still prefer something to cover my backside rather than leaving my butt bare, and I can carry PC, baggage, keyboard (musical) without any issue. If myvi, I always have to change car again and again to carry those stuff.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 31 2011, 12:05 AM

Thats why I won't decat even if can really improve the torque of PE. My kids are very important to me. I won't set a bad example for them to follow.

With other manufacturer, you can bet, next year, they will change a new model and outphase existing. However PE is a proton car. As you know with proton, its very very hard to tell. They might just facelift again and again. It's never ending. If you can't wait, then buy now. If you can wait, then wait till mid next year. In the end its a waiting game. Very hard to tell coz the new car might be a better one but like someone say here....guinea pigs. Sure got problem wan, new car. Its always the facelift model that solve most major problems for proton.

Based on what ben describe, I gues Zen is right. PE short distance FC sucked. I usually go mid distance, so PE is very suitable. Its my own preference I don't like car without boot for safety and convenient sake. However if you already have a car at home with boot, usually does not carry stuff or stocks for work in car boot, I guess Myvi will be safer bet.
However MyVI 1.3 auto damn no power. Extremely dislike its acceleration, for me its practically same with PE but PE had advantage of stability, not empty tin feel. If manual, its pretty ok for city drive. I guess in the end, still its lighter kosong tin does translate to lighter and better FC.

As long as you have not sign, its the dealer responsibility. You've been farked...

As for your gf, no use getting angry now....look at the good side. Since she will feel darn guilty, you can now ask her to do kinky stuff in bed if she always reject earlier. YEAH !!!!

long as you have not sign, its the dealer responsibility. You've been farked...

As for your gf, no use getting angry now....look at the good side. Since she will feel darn guilty, you can now ask her to do kinky stuff in bed if she always reject earlier. YEAH !!!!

Yes, double post coz reply to wrong person earlier. This would not apply to fubar coz I believe he's the one force to do kinky stuff to his others instead...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 4 2012, 03:10 PM