I don't use steering lock as it tend to scratch steering wheel and the dashboard. Not worth the price of that useless deterent. Installing permanent brake lock such as locktech would be a better option. Convenient, more secure and most of all.....you would probably use it at all times unlike steering lock...sometime damn sien, have to pick it up, and lock it. Locktech brake lock, just pull only and can cabut....very useful even during rushing time.

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Added on December 3, 2011, 9:24 amWah....you lifted the car with your bare hands kah

The last time, i kena, my skinny frame does not do any good......but luckily I have stronger legs. Just jump on the cross spanar or whatever you call it to unlock the screw....all my no go to gym and sleep at home effort also no go to waste....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 3 2011, 09:24 AM

For me, that comes with a dirtier throttle later. Later kena higher bill of cleaning and if really unlucky throttle damage (very unlikely but definitely higher risk than stock paper.....I think, layman view only). So I never upgrade my air filter from the better filtered paper stock.

Actually I'm tempted also but my laziness to clean filter finally triumph myself, so stay stock.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 5 2011, 09:10 AM

Same thing comes to my mind.

Thats what everyone should do, not just protecting the battery only. The drain of power from air-cond when you crank the engine if its not switch off earlier, is especially huge. Put great strain on the battery. Battery rosak, replace only but it will might also damage the air-cond compressor, engine, etc coz the split power drain will cause insufficient power to go thru them. It might not spoil straight away but constant insufficient crank start power drain on air-cond compressor will wear down its components faster. My 2 cents.

Anyway, Panasolite battery currently is my recommendation. Century I used cepat rosak also, only slighly more than 1 year. Bosch same same.

Unnecessary and total waste of fuel. Battery WILL sufficiently recharged when you drive. So don't bother with this myth.

Actually the front seat ok, not that small. Its the higher curve at the sides hugging the body that makes it feels....smaller. I also not use to it at first but last time I sat in my ex-ex-Iswara....feels almost the same but PE seat hugs better for swerving and cornering.

I got no problem with the height since got seat height adjuster. M-Line and B-Line tak da kah....2ndly the height adjuster a bit celup, when hike up, only the rear end was heighten while the front remain, so if we put max height, our legs will slope downwards. Other cars' adjuster raise both end but do bring the seat upward AND forward a bit.

Mine 6 months plus liao, still strong leather smell. My wife no like but me and my sis like coz we like new car smell. My city after 6 years still smell a bit of a new car. Extreme jaga interior, no food allowed.

Wah new car before run in already go up genting...not really recommended until AT LEAST 1KM oil change. There's still a lot of metal shaving in initial oil. Besides that all components still very new, should take some time to run in before pushing hard.

PE ada babes admire punya kah.....how come mine tak ada babe admire punya...maybe becoz of the uncle sitting inside.

The "SAFE TINT" is just that....makes you "FEEL" safe. Otherwise the only probably effective function it has it to filter the UV ray that discolor your car equipment, leather, dashboard. Its heat resistance is next to none, sit in a car with no tint, probably feel the same heat pass thru no matter what they boast on paper. If there is A bubble at rear windscreen, I would definitely remove it ASAP. The rear demister might tear when you remove the tint especially after a long time. Thats why I always advice a good tint at rear with GOOD workmanship that can last a long time....without bubble. Other windows can use whatever tint your budget permits and be remove and reinstall at any time.

Maybe can talk again with your GF coz the original tint is practically similar to no tint with possibility of growing bubble due to poor workmanship. I analysed and tore out mine the moment I get my car earlier.

Have you try taping the hook at the bottom of the seat?

AMSoil darn expensive ohh....cannot afford.

Rarely hear anyone used true FS PAO for their engine in Malaysia for car at our range....even at 100K range, so not sure hw it goes. It's still a 30 weighted lube, so I'm not even going to try it on my PE coz I strongly believe the safest min. bet for LONG TERM usage is still 40 weighted lube for PE.

True PAO can last long but the long interval are also meant for non extreme condition. With our weather, dust, humidity, etc, I think you can safely presume to halved that interval at the very least. PAO can hold contaminants way better but can our engine really take it?

There are cases where true PAO lube prove unsuitable for certain standard engine. So although it is the best of the best, question is, IS our PE good enuf to use it

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 13 2011, 06:21 PM